Fustanella - Knowledge

2968:, pp. 487–488: "Delacroix's fascination with the near east in the 1820s, in part as a result of his interest in the Greek War of Independence, accounts for a number of studies of oriental costumes, among which the best known are perhaps his oil sketches representing dancing Suliots (Fig. 38). A water-colour of Two Albanians, in a private collection in Athens, can now be related to this group of works (Fig. 34). Two chieftains are shown within a landscape that recedes towards a low, distant horizon. The man on the left poses in rather stiff contrapposto. His companion sits cross-legged, Oriental style. The standing man wears the white kilt, and embroidered vest and sash typical of Albanian dress...As opposed to the rather general handling of the setting, the figures are depicted with great specificity. Delacroix must have intended the latter to serve as mementoes, as records of ethnic types and dress, part of the process of collecting Orientalist visual imagery in which he was engaged in the 1820s. His enthusiasm at the lush beauty of the Albanian costume must have matched that of his favourite poet at the time, Byron. In a letter to his mother from Epirus dated 12 November 1809, Byron had marvelled at 'the Albanians, in their dresses, (the most magnificent in the world, consisting of long, white kilt, gold-worked cloak, crimson velvet gold laced jacket and waist-coat, silver mounted pistols and daggers)...he admitted to having succumbed to the temptation and acquired some of these 'magnificent Albanian dresses...They cost fifty guineas each, and have so much gold, they would cost in England two hundred'." 1906: 440: 1103: 3695:, pp. 59: "According to old travel books, the nineteenth-century traveler could readily identify Greek-Albanian peasants by their dress. The people and their garb, labeled as "Albanian", were frequently described in contemporary written accounts or depicted in watercolours and engravings. The main components of dress associated with Greek-Albanian… men an outfit with a short full skirt known as the foustanella.", pp. 59–61. "Identifying the Greek-Albanian man by his clothing was more difficult after the Greek war of Independence, for the so-called "Albanian costume" became what has been identified as the "true" national dress on the mainland of Greece. In admiration for the heroic deeds of the Independence fighters, many of whom were Arvanites, a fancy version of the foustanella was adopted by diplomats and philihellenes for town wear.", pp. 75–76. "The townspeople who gave up their Turkish-style clothing after Greece attained its independence communicated solidarity with the new Greek democracy by wearing foustanella. This was clear example of national dress. At the same time, those who dwelled in villages and on mountainsides kept their traditional clothing forms, specifically the sigouni and the chemise." 1000: 3812:, pp. 172: "Othon apparently arrived in Greece wearing a Bavarian military uniform, but soon adopted the foustanela (see Figure 8.1) not only for official portraits, but in daily life. Courtier Hermann Hettner wrote that the King habitually received guests in "the Greek national costume, resplendent in silver and gold." Othon dressed his court in foustanela as early as 1832, queen Amalia also dressed her ladies-in-waiting in analogous Greek costumes. The costume seems to have genuinely pleased Othon: after being forced from power in 1862, he continued to wear it in his German retirement. Othon also made the foustanela a service uniform by imposing it on government officials… Government officials also wore the foustanela abroad, which occasionally led to embarassment ... Othon showed less enthusiasm for the foustanela as a military uniform. He initially intended to use Bavarian-style uniforms in his army, but backed down when threatened with mass resignations and the resultant banditry." 2956:, pp. 182–183: "By the beginning of the nineteenth century and later on, the British, French and Austrian travellers who visited Lunxhëri, most of them arriving from Ioannina, described the Lunxhots as Albanian-speaking Orthodox Christians, and had the feeling that, starting north of Delvinaki, they were entering another country, although the political border did not exist at the time. Greek was not spoken as it was further south, there was a change in the way of life and manners of the peasants. As one traveller reported Hobhouse 1813: Every appearance announced to us that we were now in a more populous country. (...) the plain was every where cultivated, and not only on the side of Argyro-castro ... but also on the hills which we were traversing, many villages were to be seen. The dress of the peasants was now changed from the loose woollen brogues of the Greeks, to the cotton kamisa, or kilt of the Albanian, and in saluting Vasilly they no longer spoke Greek." 2109: 3668:, p. 106: "On the other hand, Albanian dress was daily becoming more fashionable among the other nationalities. The fashion in the Morea was attributed to the influence of Ydra, an old Albanian colony, and to the other Albanian settlements in the Peloponesse. Ydra, however, could not have played a significant part in the development since its inhabitants did not wear the Albanian kilt but the clothes common to other islanders. In the rest of Greece it was the steadily rising power of Ali Pasha that made the Albanians a kind of ruling class to be imitated by others. The fact that the Albanians dress was lighter and more manageable than the dress the Greek upper classes used to wear also helped in spreading the fashion. It was not unusual even for the Turks to have their children dressed in Albanian costume, although it would have been demeaning for them to do so themselves." 316: 451: 1859: 3364:, pp. 132–133: "Most of these men are warriors with long curling locks falling down their backs, clad in pleated tunics or chain mail with short pointed caps on their heads. They wield swords, and protect themselves with shields, either round or shaped like a pointed oval...The mace-bearer of No. 1275 is clad in chain mail with a heavy pleated fustanella worn about his hips. The importance of this latter piece is very considerable, for the details of the costume, often shown on Incised-Sgraffito figures, are very clear, and make it certain that the fustanella exists as an independent garment and is not an elaboration of the lower part of a tunic. It is consequently demonstrable that this characteristic garment of latter-day Greece was in common use as early as the twelfth century in Greek lands." 1043: 3589:, p. 232: "Gradually, more and more Greeks found ways of getting themselves on the Government's pay roll. The money was never accounted for in detail. A captain would simply contract to provide a number of armed men and draw pay for that number. Again, the opportunities for embesslement were eagerly seized. Anyone who could muster any pretensions to a military status appeared in Nauplia demanding pay. It was probably at this time that the Albanian dress made its decisive step towards being regarded as the national dress of Greece. The Government party, being largely Albanians themselves, favoured the dress and a version of it was common among the Greek klephts and armatoli. Now it seemed that anyone who donned an Albanian dress could claim to be a soldier and share in the bonanza." 680: 760: 3433:, p. 113: "We can dispose of any lingering doubts as to the identification of the hero with Akritas rather than St. George or Alexander by considering one important piece of evidence that has not been exploited before, namely, the fustanella, the pleated kilt worn by the dragon slayers and by many other figures in the Byzantine plates. We have already seen that the twelfth century poet Prodromos describes Digenes as wearing kilts, a detail which is also mentioned in the Grottaferrata version. The Byzantine plates corroborate this key detail in the identification. Thirty-five plates show such warriors wearing the fustanella. Of these at least eight plates, on which the identification with Digenes rests, show a warrior slaying a dragon." 3878:, p. 70: "The name Roumeliotes was applied to the Sarakatsani because centuries ago they returned to mainland Greece to pasture their sheep every summer (Koster and Koster 1976: 280)."; p. 63. "Sarakatsani men were not as uniform in their attire as Sarakatsani women. The men wore outfits made from handwoven wool with either trousers (panovraki) or foustanella skirts depending on the local tradition (Papantoniou 1981:11)."; p. 67. "Papantoniou associates two types of male garments with the Vlachs, the white trousers (of the type seen in Fig. 3.4) and the homemade foustanella (Papantoniou 1981: 11, 41). It should be remembered that both trousers and foustanella were also worn by Sarakatsani men." 3565:, pp. 170–171: "The foustanela, like the Scottish kilt or Lady Llanover's Cambrian Costumes, provides ample material for authenticity—fabrication debates, not least because its origins apparently lie in Albania. During the Greek independence war, however, its Greek connotations became so powerful that foreign Philhellenes adopted it to show their sympathy for the Greek cause. Henry Bradfield, a surgeon who served in Greece, observed one English gentleman who tried to make a foustanela from a sheet. Philhellene enthusiasm for the foustanela survived knowledge of its Albanian origins, Philhellene William Whitcombe described the foustanela as a light Albanian kilt" in his 1828 memoirs." 1436: 2089: 3893:, pp. 176: " By the end of the nineteenth century, the foustanela was no longer an everyday costume. Civilians wore what James Verinis dubbed the "town foustantela" only on special occasions. On the Aegean Islands, where it had never been part of peasant dress, the foustanela appeared even more ceremonial. At the turn of the century, Harriet Boyd Hawes, a British archaeologist in Crete, reported that Locals had seen the foustanela "if at all, only in patriotic plays representing heroes of the Revolution of '21." Hawes also found that when she dressed her Greek assistant in one, he could overawe Local villagers who mistook it for a government uniform." 3445:, pp. 114: "They are not clad in armor, nor in helmets. They wear a cap, a cloth doublet, and their pleated kilt is unmistakably different from that of the other class of warriors. Their kilt resembles the klepht fustanella; it is longer, more flared, fluid, and ornamented with decorative stripes, horizontal or vertical. It is this difference in kilts that distinguishes the warriors in the Byzantine plates from the imperial forces depicted in other manifestations of Byzantine art. The kilts in our plates belong to the akrites, whose garb is required by their way of life and the guerrilla type of warfare described in the Byzantine military treatise." 944: 1828: 532: 1142: 3577:, pp. 67–68 (Note #4): "Also, Albanians, Arvanito–Vlachs, and Vlachs, from the fourteenth until the nineteenth centuries, had settled major areas of Northwestern and Central Greece, the Peloponessos and some of the Saronic and Cycladic islands. Though usually remaining linguistically distinct, they participated "as Greeks" in the War of Independence and in the further development of the new nation. As a consequence of extensive Albanian settlement, the Greek national dress up until the twentieth century was the Albania foustanella (pleated skirt) with pom-pommed curved shoes called tsarouchia." 1847: 1276: 3457:, pp. 113–115: "A comparison of the fustanella warriors on the Byzantine plates with the klephts of the Greek Revolution of 1821–30, shown in the primitive paintings of Makriyiannes, shows that we are dealing in both instances with a garment which is peculiarly suited to a fast, mobile guerrilla mountain type of warrior...This kind of warfare, also described in the Akritan ballads, called for a fast mobile guerrilla type of soldier. What kind of dress is suitable for this kind of warfare? Nothing better than the fustanella worn by the Akritan warriors in the Byzantine plates." 1871: 2027: 307: 2128: 846: 2046: 1193: 648: 639: 975:. In the early 19th century, the costume's popularity rose among the Greek population. During the era of post-independence Greece, parts of Greek society such as townspeople shed their Turkish-style clothing and adopted the fustanella which symbolised solidarity with new Greek democracy. Philhellene enthusiasm for the fustanella survived knowledge of its Albanian origins. It became difficult thereafter to distinguish the fustanella as clothing worn by male Arvanites from clothing worn by wider parts of Greek society. Its popularity in the 1402: 572: 1925: 2154: 2074: 2000: 2062: 1984: 3517:, pp. 139–175: "Thought originally to have been a southern Albanian outfit worn by men of the Tosk ethnicity and introduced into more Greek territories during the Ottoman occupation of previous centuries, the "clean petticoat" of the foustanéla ensemble was a term of reproach used by brigands well before laografia (laographía, folklore) and disuse made it the national costume of Greece and consequently made light of variations based on region, time period, class or ethnicity." 1427: 1937: 2012: 1891: 1962: 3134:, p. 167: "While quite popular among those who depicted Malesorë life in paintings, the use of the foustanella among Ghegs was basically reserved for formal occasions; it was worn by groups in the Kelmendi, Hoti, Shala and Berisha village groups. On such important occasions such as declarations of allegiance, the settlement of disputes and the election of paramount representatives, elite males would adopt these long white garments and wear their 1084:, reporting that "The Albanian dress is daily becoming more customary, both in the Morea and in the rest of Greece; in the latter from the great increase of the Albanian power; in the Morea, probably in consequence of the prosperity of Ydhra, which is an Albanian colony, and of the settlements of Albanian peasantry that have been made in some parts of the Morea, particularly Argolis, as well as in the neighbouring provinces of Attica and Boeotia." 22: 1504: 3489:

intérêt qu’il attribuait sans doute à sa dextérité, et qui avait une tout autre cause. Son action venait de me rappeler les héros d’Homère, et de me transporter, sans qu’il s’en doutât, dans le camp d’Achille. Les traits et la tournure de cet Albanais prêtaient assez à l’illusion; il avait le front noble et le regard fier; il était couvert de dorures; ses armes étaient aussi éclatantes que celles qui furent forgées par Vulcain." (

1151: 2530:Πρόκειται για τη, λίγο μεγαλύτερη του φυσικού, ανάγλυφη απεικόνιση του Αρχεδήμου, λαξευμένη από τον ίδιο επάνω στην επιφάνεια του ενδιάμεσου βραχώδους σχηματισμού, που όπως είδαμε χωρίζει το σπήλαιο σε δύο μεγάλους θαλάμους. Φορώντας βραχύ χιτώνα, δεμένο σε πτυχές στη μέση σαν φουστανέλα (εύζωνος, από το επίρρημα ευ και το ρήμα ζώνυμι), όπως συνήθιζαν οι αρχαίοι σε ώρες γεωργικής ή άλλης χειρωνακτικής απασχολήσεως, ... 214: 1065:, which consisted mainly of Albanians and Greeks. The men of the regiment were reported as wearing "Albanian dress"; their orders stated "clothing and accoutrements were to be made in the Albanian fashion". Enlisted men wore red jackets with yellow cuffs, facings, and trim; for the officers, these were gold and white, over a white shirt, 1133:. In 1855, it was insisted that the Greek volunteers should abandon the fustanella and adopt uniforms that were similar to the Russian ones; arguing that the costume of the Greeks was not suitable for military conditions. Aristidis Chrisovergis, one of the commanders, strongly opposed this and refused to take off the fustanella. 3397:, p. 110: "These lines are triply valuable for they tell us (1) the early popularity of Akritas; (2) the existence of the source of the Grottaferrata by the twelfth century; (3) that Digenes wears kilts which appear in the Byzantine plates as the fustanella, the key for the identification of the warriors in the plates." 2735:, p. 38: "The Albanian soldier who arrived in southern Italy during the days of Scanderbeg wore a distinctive costume; if he was a "Gheg" (northern Albanian), he wore rather tight breeches and a waistcoat; if he was a "Tosk" (southern Albanian), he wore a "fustanella" (a white pleated skirt) and a waistcoat." 962:

Southern Albanians introduced their traditional costume with fustanella when they migrated in territories of present-day Greece, subsequently becoming part of the national dress of Greece as a consequence of their settlement in the region. The Albanian warrior dress with fustanella spread among armed

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on the side and a pair of pistols with long-chiseled silver handles in the belt. The general custom in Albania was to dip the white skirts in melted sheep-fat for the double purpose of making them waterproof and less visible at a distance. Usually, this was done by the men-at-arms (called in Albanian

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warriors of the Greek revolution. The Albanian traditional costume with fustanella was greatly favoured among the Balkan peoples, and it was imitated by many other peoples. Its spread among other neighbouring peoples such as the Greeks, and even the Turks, is documented by the historians of the time.

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Original quote: "Le 27 mars, avant de partir, je fis le croquis d’une mosquée et le portrait d’un jeune seigneur albanais (PI. X), qui, par forme de remercîment, tua et écorcha un mouton en notre présence. Je fus moins touché que surpris de sa politesse; mais je ne laissai pas de le regarder avec un

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Title: Albanais au service d' Ali Pacha. (ο τίτλος είναι γραμμένος με μολύβι εκτός πλαισίου εικόνας). Publication/Bibliography: Voyage a Athènes et a Constantinople ou collection de portraits, de vues et de costumes Grecs et Ottomans. Peints sur les lieux, d' aprés nature, lithographieés et coloriés

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it was associated with the heroes of the Greek War of Independence (1821) in local theatrical productions and seldom as a government uniform. The men of the Greek presidential guard, founded in 1868, wear the fustanella as part of their official dress. By the late 19th century, the popularity of the

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and other Albanian-speaking settlements in the area. The Hydriotes however could not have played a significant role in its development since they did not wear the fustanella, but similar costumes to the other Greek islanders. In other regions of Greece the popularity of the fustanella was attributed

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The jacket, worn with the fustanella in the Albanian costume, has a free armhole to allow for the passage of the arm, while the sleeves, attached only on the upper part of the shoulders, are thrown back. The sleeves are not usually worn even though the wearer has the option of putting them on. There

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it was worn by the revolutionary fighters. At that time its notoriety as a symbol of male bravery and heroism grew considerably across the Ottoman Empire and spread throughout Europe. Following the Greek independence, fustanella and accompanying embroidered waistcoats and jackets were adopted by the

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Initially, as there were no military uniforms, the enlisted men were distinguished by wearing a uniform head covering, made of a khaki material, with the sign of a cross, for enlisted men, and the double-headed eagle for officers, as well as a blue arm-band, and the initials of the Delvino Regiment

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celebrated and described it as "the most magnificent in the world, consisting of long, white kilt, gold-worked cloak, crimson velvet gold laced jacket and waist-coat, silver mounted pistols and daggers". The renowned Albanian clothes were not official uniforms adorned with insignia, but traditional

1207:

from 1930s to 1960s. This genre emphasized on depictions of rural Greece and was focused on the differences between rural and urban Greece. In general it offered an idealized depiction of the Greek village, where the fustanella was a typical image. In Greece today, the garment is seen a relic of a

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During the reign of King Otto (1832–1862), the fustanella was worn by the king, the royal court and the military, while it became a service uniform imposed on government officials to wear even when abroad. In that period the dress system in Greece evolved, and most of the Greeks were increasingly

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tribes. They reserved use of the fustanella for elites during important and formal occasions such as dispute resolutions, election of local tribal representatives and allegiance declarations. During the 1920s, the fustanella began to go out of fashion among Tosks being replaced with Western style

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The Albanian fustanella has around sixty pleats, or usually a moderate number. It is made of heavy home-woven linen cloth. Historically, the skirt was long enough to cover the whole thigh (knee included), leaving only the lower leg exposed. It was usually worn by wealthy Albanians who would also

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or pleated skirt (sometimes called a fustanella) attributed to Manuel I, the "new Akrites," in a Ptochoprodromic poem, and 26 have him slaying a dragon, neither iconographic element is sufficient to identify the hero specifically as Digenes because both the skirt and the deed characterize other

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The Greek fustanella differs from the Albanian fustanella in that the former garment has a higher number of pleats. For example, the "Bridegroom's coat", worn throughout the districts of Attica and Boeotia, was a type of Greek fustanella unique for its 200 pleats; a bride would purchase it as a

2402:, p. 126: "The peasant women, whose attire through this and the adjoining Serbian provinces is as exclusively Slavonic as their language, have here preserved a distinctively Illyrian element in their dress. They wear, in fact, over and above the Slavonic apron, an Albanian fustanella;". 750:

in the 1820s, when its notoriety as a symbol of male courage and heroism expanded across the region. The Albanian-Greek attire became popular particularly among young men who wanted to take a picture in a heroic pose, although not being themselves involved in fights for independence.

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southern Albanians migrated in Greece and in southern Italy, bringing with them their own custom, language and clothing, which included the fustanella garment. In the 19th century the usage of the fustanella stretched through all Albanian inhabited lands, and it had become the

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traveling within the area of contemporary Albania observed that the fustanella was for Albanians a characteristic national costume. Other artists visiting southern Albania in mid-19th century depicted landscapes with Albanians in traditional costume with fustanella, such as

1905: 2656:, p. 46: "The most common element in men's clothing is the white, long and multi-pleated fustanella, widely known as the garment, used centuries before the Ottoman occupation, by a large population living in the Albanian territories lying in the Balkans." 3601:, p. 148: "The modern fustanella appears in Greece worn by Albanians, and especially the Arvanites, as Greeks of Albanian ancestry were called, most of whom fought alongside the Greeks against the Turks in the long war of independence." 195:. According to a variant of this view, with the expansion of the Romans to colder climates in central and northwestern Europe, more folds would be added to provide greater warmth; according to another variant of this view by folklorist 3748:"Σουλιώτες πολεμιστές καταδιώκουν τον εχθρό. - Hughes, Thomas Smart - Mε Tο Bλεμμα Των Περιγηηγητων - Τόποι - Μνημεία - Άνθρωποι - Νοτιοανατολική Ευρώπη - Ανατολική Μεσόγειος - Ελλάδα - Μικρά Ασία - Νότιος Ιταλία, 15ος - 20ός αιώνας" 503:

The fustanella was regarded by foreign scholars and travellers as a typical Albanian costume, characterizing the Albanians from the standpoint of dress for many centuries, especially in the 18th and 19th centuries. In 1805

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De Rapper, Gilles (2005). "Better than Muslims, Not as Good as Greeks: Emigration as Experienced and Imagined by the Albanian Christians of Lunxhëri". In King, Russell; Mai, Nicola; Schwandner-Sievers, Stephanie (eds.).

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also approved the recruitment of roughly 3,000 Albanians who had moved to the Ionian Islands, for the most part refugees fleeing the Albanian coast because of the harsh authority of the Ottoman Albanian ruler

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units. Contemporary commentators about their dress described their fustanella as "a white many folded" and "a white linen petticoat of enormous size, hanging in numberless plaits from the waist to the knee".

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of foreign embassies and the homes of the wealthy. They wore their traditional dress with fustanella, which evolved from an untidy costume into a formal uniform that exhibited the status of their employers.

1102: 676:). After being removed from the cauldron, the skirts were hung up to dry and then pressed with cold irons so as to create the pleats. They then had a dull gray appearance but were not dirty by any means. 439: 1122:

wearing European garments, while traditional clothing was still preserved in villages. The uniform with the typical fustanella was mainly used in the army as well as on ceremonial events and feasts.

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Prints and Impressions from Ottoman Smyrna: The Collection de Costumes Civils Et Militaires, Scènes Populaires, Et Vues de L'Asie-Mineure Album (1836-38) at Harvard University's Fine Arts Library

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Greek villagers of Albanian origin continued to wear the fustanella or the poukamiso (an elongated shirt) on a daily basis until the 20th century. Of the Roumeliotes, the nomadic Greek-speaking

996:. In those areas, its lightweight design and manageability in comparison to the clothing of the Greek upper classes of the era also made it fashionable amongst them in adopting the fustanella. 1858: 528:

and its surrounding environs), apart from different languages a change of clothing occurred. Those Albanian speakers wore the Kamisa shirt and kilt, while Greek speakers wore woolen brogues.

3680:, p. 90: "Greek fashion in the nineteenth century saw men dressed in the Albanian kilt while women followed the Muslim tradition of covering themselves up, including the face and eyes." 3140:

underneath. The foustanella became famous once King Otto of Greece declared it the national dress of independent Greece, probably due to the fact his largely Albanian speaking army wore it."

3107:, p. 17: "The closely observing eye of the painter Edward Lear, in his travels around Albania in 1848 and 1849, depicted the fustanella as a typical national costume of the Albanians." 1076:

did not traditionally wear the fustanella, they used to dress voluminous trousers. Written evidence that some version of the Albanian costume were in use in the Pelopponese was provided by

3705:Ελευθερία Νικολαΐδου (Eleutheria Nikolaidou) (1997). "Η Ήπειρος στον Αγώνα της Ανεξαρτησίας (Epirus in the Struggle for Independence)". In Μιχαήλ Σακελλαρίου (Michael Sakellariou) (ed.). 2108: 1338:"). It was disbanded on 6 July 1820 after the assassination attempt on King Ferdinand by the Arbëresh Agesilao Milani. Thereafter the exonerated soldiers were sent to their homeland. 555:

costumes with small differences depending on the regional location or personal preferences of the wearer. After its celebration and description by Byron, who was the most influential

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overall preferred Arnaut mercenary troops over any of the standing army troops. After 1826 these Albanian troops were employed in various armies as frontier battalions when the new

6299: 512:, and that "The Albanian dress is daily becoming more customary, both in the Morea and in the rest of Greece". In 1807 Leake reported that the officials of the Albanian ruler Ali 4370:

Baleva, Martina (2021). "Geschichtete Sichtbarkeiten. Trendsetter und Kleidercodes in Porträtfotografien vom osmanischen Balkan". In Thomas Grob; Anna Hodel; Jan Miluška (eds.).

516:, including his sons, were dressed according to the Albanian tradition. In 1809–1810, within the area of contemporary southern Albania and northwestern Greece, British traveller 798:' dynasty were noted for their swagger, their weapons and their costumes, particularly for the pleats of their typical white fustanellas. Those costumes played a major role in 1413:

In the 18th and 19th centuries many foreign travellers recorded that the bodyguards of the princely courts of Moldova and Wallachia were dressed with the Albanian fustanella.

4789:

Langkjær, Michael Alexander (2012). "A case of misconstrued Rock Military Style: Mick Jagger and his Evzone "little girl's party frock" fustanella, Hyde Park, July 5, 1969".

2680:, p. 16: "Among the most important documents is one of the year 1335, which relates how at the port of Drin, near Shkodra, a sailor was robbed of the following items: ( 496:

of the French army, which consisted mainly of Albanian warriors. In the 1810s, the Albanian warrior dress was officially adopted as the standardised military uniform of the

2088: 559:

of the time, the Albanian traditional warrior costume became a principal visual symbol of Philhellenism in the 1820s, appearing in the widespread romantic iconography of

1827: 1087:

Following the Greek independence, fustanella and associated embroidered waistcoats and jackets that were worn by the revolutionary fighters were adopted by the nascent

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in March 1805, when he met a local Albanian Bey accompanied by Albanian soldiers. Leake also wrote about the Albanian costume during a visit to Hassan Bey, governor of

999: 2045: 331:(right). Both dating to the 1810s, the engravings show the Albanian traditional warrior costume, preferred by Albanian clan chiefs and high-ranking officers in the 1527:, the fustanella is identified with Albanian and Greek populations. It can be frequently seen in Albanian and Greek folk festivals and parades across the country. 1846: 1306:), where soldiers were recruited from their homeland until 1812, when the Regiment was disbanded. In 1813 the 526 veterans were sent to their homeland. In 1815, 5097:

Albanità in Ebollizione. Studio delle dinamiche dell'identità e delle rappresentazioni sociali degli Albanesi nella transizione tra epoca moderna e postmoderna

593: 4230:; Wittman, Richard (2019). "Historical comments on the Illustrations in the Harvard Fulgenzi Album of Lithographs (1836-38)". In Collaço, Gwendolyn (ed.). 5365:

Antique Dealing and Creative Reuse in Cairo and Damascus 1850-1890: Intercultural Engagements with Architecture and Craft in the Age of Travel and Reform

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par L. Dupré, éléve de David; Accompagné d' un texte orné de vignettes. Paris, Imprimarie de Dondey-Dupré, rue Saint-Louis, No 46, au Marais. M DCCC XXV.

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Ethniko Historiko Mouseio (Greece); Maria Lada-Minōtou; I. K. Mazarakēs Ainian; Diana Gangadē; Historikē kai Ethnologikē Hetaireia tēs Hellados (1993).

1870: 210:, they are generally regarded as not being worn by Celtic warriors of Roman times and as being introduced in the Scottish Highlands c. 16th Century AD. 4334:

Bada, Konstantina (1995). "Η παράδοση στη διαδικασία της ιστορικής διαπραγμάτευσης της εθνικής και τοπικής ταυτότητας: Η περίπτωση της "φουστανέλας"".

2570:, p. 56: "The young shepherd wears a fustanella, descendant of the military tunic of ancient Greece, now rarely worn except by certain regiments." 1228:(leather belt) with gold or silver embroidery, is worn around the waist over the fustanella, in which the armatoloi and the klephts placed their arms. 746:

The Albanian traditional warrior costume with fustanella spread among Bulgarians, about two decades after it was dressed by the revolutionaries of the

263:. However, no ancient Greek clothing has survived to confirm that the origins of the fustanella are in the pleated garments or chitons worn by men in 5043:

Greek Costumes and Embroideries, from the Benaki Museum, Athens: An Exhibition Presented Under the Patronage of H.M. Queen Frederika of the Hellenes

4463:

Blumi, Isa (2004). "Undressing the Albanian: Finding Social History in Ottoman Material Cultures". In Faroqhi, Suraiya; Neumann, Christoph (eds.).

3283:

There are, however, examples where the sigouni is worn over a pleated skirt of the foustanela type, as at Dropoli and Tepeleni in Northern Epirus

4707: 2515: 1837: 1481: 916:

warriors originally as a military outfit, and seems to have been reserved for people of importance. It was frequently worn in conjunction with

428: 1039:. Local Greeks, Italians and Dalmatians were additionally recruited, however the regiment never achieved its official establishment of 3,254. 6377: 1294:. The Albanian Regiments were disbanded in 1789, however they were restored in 1798 constituting the "Albanian Volunteer Hunters Battalion" ( 715:, which is a soft leather shoe, with turned-up points, which, when intended for children, are surmounted with a pompon of black or red wool. 4831:

Meço, Irma (2011). "Martin William Leake L'Albania agli occhi di un viaggiatore inglese agli albori del sec. XIX". In Giovanni Sega (ed.).

597: 475: 4855: 1061:

The first time the fustanella was worn as part of a standardised military uniform in territories of present-day Greece was in 1810 in the

111:

national dress. The Albanian-Greek attire thereafter acquired popularity among peoples who wanted to dress in a courageous heroic manner.

5438: 2061: 146:, in present-day central Albania, dating back to the 4th century CE, clearly providing an early archaeological evidence of a fustanella. 4238:

The 1861 depiction of an Arvanite warrior by Carl Haag at the Benaki Museum in Athens is but one of the more well-known such portrayals.

2480: 940:

of the Greek Revolution of 1821–1830 for the same reason it would have been worn by the akritai warriors of the Byzantine era earlier.

1515:

annual carnival of the Greek community in Istanbul the traditional fustanella was among the popular costumes worn by the Greek youth.

315: 3711:Στήν εἰκόνα πολεμιστές Σουλιῶτες σέ χαλκογραφία τῶν μέσων τοῦ 19ου αἰ. (In the picture Souliote warriors from a 19th c. chalcography) 2011: 2026: 450: 5969: 5465: 1231:

During the 18th and early 19th centuries, the skirts hung below the knees and the hem of the garment was gathered together with

1042: 255:(or short military tunic). This hypothesis involves a link to an ancient statue (3rd century BC) located in the area around the 2127: 719: 4137: 2684:). This is the earliest known evidence in which the "fustan" (kilt) is mentioned as an item of clothing along with the shirt." 5353: 5315: 5260: 5117: 5085: 5062: 5030: 4844: 4821: 4768: 4747: 4640: 4619: 4535: 4474: 4451: 4440: 4389: 4324: 4282: 4049:

of the War of Independence placed their arms, recalls the ancient girdle; 'gird thyself' meant 'arm thyself' (Homer, Iliad)."

3917: 3617:

was worn by the armatoli and klephts in the pre-revolutionary period and by the freedom-fighters in the War of Independence."

3544: 2886: 2523: 2461: 2359: 759: 679: 5205: 1458:), whose traditional costume included the fustanella, were counted among the paid Turkish Government Troops, along with the 411:), whose traditional costume included the fustanella, were counted among the paid Turkish government troops, along with the 6975: 4884:. Vol. 11. Cambridge, MA: Published for the American School of Classical Studies at Athens, Harvard University Press. 1924: 1890: 5100: 4236:. Memoria : fontes minores ad historiam Imperii Ottomanici pertinentes. Vol. 4. Max Weber Stiftung. p. 76. 1961: 1936: 1341:

The fustanella has been a symbol of economic wealth among Arbëreshë people. It is worn by Arbëreshë men during festivals.

550:

In the early 19th century, other British travellers within the region noticed the Albanian costume, in particular in 1809

4868: 1290:

In the late 18th century the Albanian traditional warrior costume with fustanella was worn by the Albanian troops in the

1026:

in 1799, and which was transferred to the French in 1807, after the recovering of the Ionian Islands. On 12 October 1807

391:

The Albanian traditional costume with fustanella had identified the special troops that Albanians constituted within the

161:

said that the Albanian fustanella of the female peasants (worn over and above the Slavonic apron) living near the modern

2862:

p. 408: "George de la Poer Beresford published 12 double-tinted lithographs of scenes from southern Albania in 1855.214"

2802:"Janina, Albania (subsequently Greece): the audience chamber of Ali Pasha. Colour lithograph after G.D. Beresford, 1855" 1983: 4717: 2189: 4833:

Il viaggio adriatico: Aggiornamenti bibliografici sulla letteratura di viaggio in Albania e nelle terre dell'Adriatico

484:

During the late 18th and early 19th centuries Albanian warriors wore their traditional costume with fustanella in the

5416: 5372: 5149: 4918: 4889: 4726: 4682: 4577: 4556: 4493: 4410: 4360: 3971: 3944: 3782: 3327: 3255: 1062: 1050: 905: 497: 172:

Some scholars have hypothesised that the Albanian/Illyrian kilt became the original pattern of Roman military dress.

91: 5301:"Human representations on Medieval Cypriot ceramics and beyond: The enigma of mysterious figures wrapped in riddles" 3707:Ηπειρος : 4000 χρόνια ελληνικής ιστορίας και πολιτισμού (Epirus: 4.000 years of Greek history and civilisation) 849:

Sgraffito pottery fragments from the 12th century showing Greek warriors thought to be wearing the fustanella, from

6475: 5338:

Tracey-Miller, Caitlin; Strauss, Mitchell D. (2014). "Fustanella". In Lynch, Annette; Strauss, Mitchell D. (eds.).

4650:

Hoti, Afrim (1989). "Enë me glazurë nga qyteti i Durrësit (shek. X-XV)/ Récipients à glaçure découverts à Durrës".

4355:. Studies in Theory and History of Photography. Vol. 8. Walter de Gruyter GmbH & Co KG. pp. 237–256. 958:

lord who impressed him by his politeness, dexterity, noble brow and proud look, as well as his costume and weapons.

4811: 2153: 6036: 2554:(short military tunic), fastened by a belt round the waist and falling into narrow regular folds, is derived the 2508:

Kyrou, Adonis K. (2020). "The Cave of Nympholeptos: From the dances of the Nymphs to neoplatonic contemplation".

2468:

Keramopoullos's theory that the fustanella was descended from the Roman military uniform seems to me more likely.

1999: 861:

It has been suggested that the fustanella was already in common use in Greek lands as early as the 12th century.

833:

In the 1930s the fustanella continued to characterise Albanian guards in Egypt, as witnessed by Egyptian scholar

5169: 4349:"The Heroic Lens: Portrait Photography of Ottoman Insurgents in the Nineteenth-Century Balkans - Types and Uses" 2914:, p. 20: "The orders stipulated that 'clothing and accoutrements were to be made in the Albanian fashion'." 1177:, a Latin-speaking people who lived within Greece also wore the fustanella or trousers depending on the region. 6351: 6066: 4632:

The Balkan Wars: Conquest, Revolution, and Retribution from the Ottoman Era to the Twentieth Century and Beyond

4600: 2351: 2073: 1485: 420: 6262: 5853: 912:, and the church of Holy Cross of Agiasmati in Cyprus. The full-pleated fustanella was worn by the Byzantine 6016: 1435: 1053:

of the British army, wearing the regimental uniform based on the Albanian traditional warrior costume and a

6970: 6346: 6031: 5139: 900:

of the songs served as prototypes for later depictions. The garment is also depicted on early 14th-century

4432:

Imagology: The Cultural Construction and Literary Representation of National Characters: A Critical Survey

2494: 6965: 6487: 6449: 6336: 5458: 1264: 687: 6955: 6950: 6671: 5937: 5758: 5170:"Spiridon Loues, the Modern Foustanéla, and the Symbolic Power of Pallikariá at the 1896 Olympic Games" 1036: 493: 5915: 4967: 2836:

Hernandez, David R. (2019). "The Abandonment of Butrint: From Venetian Enclave to Ottoman Backwater".

813:

in Egypt, and they were greatly valued in the Egyptian Army, especially for their traditional role as

6423: 6304: 6156: 6026: 6011: 4186: 4033:, and their mode of decoration, are reminiscent of the ornamented breastplates of ancient times. The 3467: 1752: 1444:

Albanian soldier in the Ottoman army, 1813 (left). Albanian soldiers in Constantinople, 1857 (right).

972: 747: 127: 99: 6676: 943: 6372: 5112: 1315: 1307: 1236: 1046: 1007: 722:(1913–1914) initially did not have their own military uniforms, but later the enlisted men adopted 353:

pottery fragment from Durrës. A 14th-century document (1335) listing a series of items including a

4251: 2118: 2036: 1946: 889:

are shown bearing weapons and wearing the heavy pleated fustanella. This is also confirmed by the

799: 771: 463: 142:

A terracotta figurine with a fustanella garment (i.e. a pleated skirt wore by a man) was found in

30: 6960: 5670: 5345: 3723: 2509: 1782: 1554:(diminutive), the fabric from which the earliest fustanella were made. This in turn derives from 531: 419:

in 1826, the Albanian troops were employed in various armies as frontier battalions when the new

280:(Greek: ποδέα) was worn. The wearer of the podea was either associated with a typical hero or an 5327:Αρχαία ελληνική και ρωμαϊκή αρχιτεκτονική στονελλαδικό χώρο σε κείμενα ταξιδιωτών του 18ου αιώνα 4274:

The Eve of the Greek Revival: British Travellers' Perceptions of Early Nineteenth-Century Greece

1389:

could be attributed to the hypothesis that the costume was introduced to certain regions within

5451: 1354: 1130: 897: 395:, whose military prowess became renowned, especially in the era of the Ottoman Albanian pashas 74:, whose military prowess became renowned, especially in the era of the Ottoman Albanian pashas 5404: 5016: 4372:

Geschichtete Identitäten: (post-)imperiales Erzählen und Identitätsbildung im östlichen Europa

4348: 3907: 3536: 1275: 1180:

In terms of geographical spread, the fustanella never became part of the clothing worn in the

1141: 6806: 3934: 3315: 2415: 1470: 1284: 795: 400: 396: 191:

origin, relating the fustanella to the statues of Roman emperors wearing knee-length pleated

79: 75: 6681: 4966:

Romagnoli, Gianfranco (2010). "Il Reggimento Real Macedone". In Gianfranco Romagnoli (ed.).

4913:. Washington, District of Columbia: National Academy of Sciences-National Research Council. 4505: 4292:

Athanassoglou-Kallmyer, Nina (1983). "Of Suliots, Arnauts, Albanians and Eugène Delacroix".

3528: 730:, a sleeveless coat made of thick white wool, is worn over the fustanella in the regions of 6841: 6213: 5280: 4836: 3263:(Sigma Delta). Later on, the situation improved, and all enlisted men wore Evzone uniforms. 1990: 1173:

pastoralists wore either trousers or the fustanella, depending on the local tradition. The

1077: 505: 4929: 4854:

Mesi, Agron (2019). "The "Discovery" of Albanians and Their Culture from Western Europe".

1212:

wedding gift for her groom (if she could afford the garment). A fustanella is worn with a

8: 6098: 6078: 4456:

Research Report 09: The Limits of Integration: Ethnicity and Nationalism in Modern Europe

4256:(in Greek). Εκ του Τυπογραφείου των Καταστημάτων "Ανέστη Κωνσταντινίδου". pp. 21–23. 1730: 1092: 1032: 989: 711:, which are sandals with leather thongs tied around a few inches above the ankle, 3) the 416: 306: 5333:] (Thesis) (in Greek). School of Architecture, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. 5331:

Ancient Greek and Roman architecture on the Greek land in 18th century travellers’ texts

1473:, the Imperial Road that led to the Imperial Council from Constantinople, following the 1393:

as a cultural borrowing from the Albanians of Toskëria (subregion of southern Albania).

936:. Being a suitable garment for guerrilla mountain units, it might have been worn by the 845: 66:

The Albanian traditional costume with fustanella had identified the special troops that

6623: 5763: 5555: 5482: 5391: 5386: 5233: 5225: 5192: 5074: 5003: 4954: 4937: 4701: 4301: 3087: 2853: 1671: 1655: 1390: 1110: 993: 882: 787: 513: 196: 173: 26: 5270:

Wenzel, Marian (1962). "Bosnian and Herzegovinian Tombstones–Who Made Them and Why?".

4982:"Lord Byron (1788–1824) in Albanian Dress: A Sartorial Response to the Ottoman Empire" 3250:. Hellenic Army General Staff, Army History Directorate, Hellenic Army General Staff. 1022:

by the Albanian warriors, initially within an Albanian militia that was raised by the

169:

borders was a preserved Illyrian element among the local Slavic-speaking populations.

6904: 6686: 6603: 6126: 6093: 5831: 5773: 5748: 5648: 5545: 5412: 5378: 5368: 5349: 5311: 5256: 5237: 5196: 5145: 5126: 5081: 5058: 5054:

World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence

5026: 4946: 4914: 4895: 4885: 4864: 4840: 4817: 4798: 4764: 4743: 4722: 4678: 4636: 4615: 4573: 4552: 4531: 4489: 4470: 4436: 4406: 4385: 4356: 4320: 4278: 3967: 3940: 3913: 3778: 3540: 3529: 3323: 3251: 2882: 2857: 2519: 2457: 2355: 1767: 1639: 1580:(ξύλινο), literally "wooden" i.e. "cotton"; others speculate that it is derived from 1291: 1192: 971:– in the pre-revolutionary period, and was worn by revolutionary fighters during the 647: 638: 517: 485: 285: 153:. It has been claimed that in the 13th century the fustanella was a common dress for 118:, a short version of the fustanella is worn by ceremonial military units such as the 107:. In 1835, it was proclaimed the official court costume and eventually it became the 83: 5433: 2682:

ei guarnacionem, tunicam, mantellum, maçam, de ferro, fustanum, camisiam abstulerunt

660:

in 1873, from left to right: peasant, lower-class, middle-class; upper-class family.

6522: 6319: 6203: 6131: 6121: 5994: 5809: 5778: 5621: 5578: 5217: 5184: 4993: 4659: 4375: 4141: 2845: 1804: 1715: 1540: 1401: 1295: 1204: 862: 818: 806: 614: 571: 376: 271: 264: 242: 230: 158: 4998: 4981: 4486:

Osprey Men-at-Arms 335: Émigré & Foreign Troops in British Service (2) 1803-15

2801: 2481:"Brief History of the Kilt - the Scottish Tartans Museum and Heritage Center, Inc" 237:

Other scholars have hypothesised that the fustanella was derived from a series of

6980: 6836: 6382: 6267: 6056: 5930: 5595: 5339: 5250: 5052: 5041: 5020: 4908: 4879: 4813:

Patriots against fashion: Clothing and nationalism in Europe's age of revolutions

4779: 4758: 4737: 4672: 4630: 4609: 4588: 4567: 4546: 4525: 4464: 4430: 4400: 4314: 4272: 4231: 4227: 4037:(leather belt) with its gold or silver embroidery, worn round the waist over the 3961: 3772: 3276: 3245: 2820: 2451: 2419: 2345: 2052: 1465:

In 1808 Albanian Troops of Bayraktar Mustafa Pasha marched beside the new Sultan

1334:), constituting in 1820 its 3rd Battalion that was called "Foreign Hunters" (It. 1244: 779: 618: 539: 82:. During the late 18th and early 19th centuries Albanian warriors wore it in the 4975:(in Italian). Italy: Centro Internazionale Studi sul Mito Delegazione Siciliana. 3747: 3163: 431:

overall preferred Arnaut mercenary troops over any of the standing army troops.

6796: 6731: 6713: 6593: 6547: 6470: 6406: 6396: 6391: 6341: 5979: 5974: 5826: 5788: 5108: 3244:

Kaphetzopoulos, Ioannis; Flokas, Charalambos; Dima-Dimitriou, Angeliki (2000).

2849: 1915: 1896: 1833: 1693: 1600: 1574: 1555: 1496: 1491:

In the 19th century Albanian warriors found immediate employment remarkably in

1474: 1451: 1189:

fustanella in Greece began to fade when Western-style clothing was introduced.

1181: 1054: 1023: 1019: 984: 954:. The subject was encountered by Dupré in 1820 and described by him as a young 890: 874: 489: 404: 392: 385: 380: 346: 336: 332: 260: 238: 87: 71: 5367:. Leiden studies in Islam and society. Vol. 12. Brill. pp. 186–241. 5363:

Volait, Mercedes (2021). "Guise and Disguise Before and During the Tanzimat".

3296: 2424:(in Greek). Vol. 15. Ελληνική Λαογραφική Εταιρεία. pp. 239–240, 243. 1163:

shepherd in traditional clothes, early 1900s, Manaki Brothers Archive (right).

603:

During the 19th century the use of the fustanella was worn over tight fitting

525: 199:, the fustanella ultimately originated from the Celtic kilt, as viewed by the 6944: 6884: 6233: 6083: 5731: 5382: 5246: 5130: 4950: 4802: 1881: 1524: 1350: 1318:

to reorganize the Royal Macedonian Regiment called "Macedonian Hunters" (It.

1260: 1208:

past era with which most members of the younger generations do not identify.

917: 893: 870: 622: 200: 5076:

That Greece Might Still be Free: The Philhellenes in the War of Independence

4899: 4663: 3704: 3322:. Soldiers & Weapons. Vol. 41. Soldiershop Publishing. p. 23. 1235:

while tucked into the boots to create a "bloused" effect. Later, during the

94:

in the Ionian Islands. In the 1820s, it became a principal visual symbol of

6914: 6861: 6811: 6618: 6401: 6176: 6021: 5474: 5025:. New York and Oxford: Taylor & Francis (Routledge). pp. 145–163. 4857:

20th International Conference on Social Sciences Zurich, 6-7 September 2019

3774:

Imaging and Mapping Eastern Europe: Sarmatia Europea to Post-Communist Bloc

2138: 2017: 1968: 1406: 1358: 1311: 909: 695: 626: 368: 188: 95: 5188: 4380: 2893:Εικ. 11. Η αίθουσα των ακροάσεων του Αλή-Πασά στα Γιάννενα (περί το 1800). 2822:

Twelve Sketches in Double-tinted Lithography of Scenes in Southern Albania

2606:, "Akritic Imagery", p. 47: "While 35 plates have the warrior wearing the 1426: 1362: 520:

noticed that when traveling from the Greek-speaking area (region south of

6879: 6753: 6726: 6643: 6537: 6502: 6314: 6088: 6046: 5947: 5942: 5858: 5819: 5525: 5400: 5281:"Bizans Dönemi Fantastik Kurgulu Betimleme Taşıyan Yeni bir Seramik Obje" 2079: 1512: 1507:

Greek men during the Baklahorani carnival in Istanbul, early 20th century

1366: 1196: 1170: 1126: 1114: 834: 814: 588: 580: 556: 372: 218: 192: 134:

era. Both Greece and Albania claim the fustanella as a national costume.

131: 6919: 5007: 735: 6763: 6517: 6444: 5984: 5663: 5641: 1562: 1174: 1160: 1088: 1081: 980: 933: 925: 822: 551: 543: 166: 104: 90:. In the 1810s, the Albanian warrior dress was officially adopted by a 5229: 5206:"The Cave at Vari. I. Description, Account of Excavation, and History" 4958: 4305: 3963:

The Queer Greek Weird Wave: Ethics, Politics and the Crisis of Meaning

1330:). In 1818 the unit was incorporated into the "Foreign Regiment" (It. 610: 576: 6748: 6613: 6608: 6542: 6532: 6512: 6480: 5999: 5962: 5903: 5653: 5626: 5550: 5515: 5039: 4014: 3998: 2549: 2541: 2179: 2099: 1877: 1852:

A Greek and an Albanian wearing the Fustanella costume, Russia, 1862.

1466: 1459: 1203:

The fustanella film (or fustanella drama) was a popular genre in the

1011: 968: 955: 826: 783: 726:

uniforms. Nowadays among the Greek population in southern Albania, a

521: 508:

reported that it was worn by the men at arms of Albanian beys in the

500:

of the British army, which consisted mainly of Albanians and Greeks.

424: 412: 256: 250: 233:, interpreted as being tied in folds in the waist like a fustanella. 222: 150: 67: 21: 6272: 6193: 5300: 3531:

Nation-Building and Identity in Europe: The Dialogics of Reciprocity

1370: 149:

According to a hypothesis the fustanella was originally worn by the

143: 6899: 6856: 6816: 6736: 6721: 6628: 6583: 6492: 6329: 6292: 6287: 6198: 6181: 6061: 6041: 5925: 5920: 5868: 5793: 5636: 5510: 5505: 5221: 4353:

The Indigenous Lens?: Early Photography in the Near and Middle East

3759:Πρωτότυπος τίτλος: View of Albanian palikars in pursuit of an enemy 2134: 2095: 1503: 1492: 1240: 1027: 950:(1827) by Lous Dupré, originally published in 1825 with the title 929: 703:

are three types of footwear that complement the fustanella: 1) the

668: 657: 564: 355: 350: 154: 114:

In modern times, the fustanella is part of Balkan folk dresses. In

52: 6924: 6666: 6208: 3243: 1409:

accompanied by an Albanian bodyguard in traditional costume, 1845.

6894: 6768: 6758: 6578: 6552: 6507: 6497: 6416: 6324: 6282: 6218: 6186: 6166: 6136: 6004: 5957: 5952: 5898: 5893: 5743: 5705: 5700: 5695: 5680: 5675: 5605: 5600: 5500: 4781:

Albania: The Rock Garden of Southeastern Europe, and other Essays

4670: 4611:

Albanian Costumes through the Centuries: Origin, Types, Evolution

4174: 3225:

Mehmed, Fenerci (1986). "86 – İşkodrali". In Ilhami Turan (ed.).

2347:

Albanian Costumes Through the Centuries: Origin, Types, Evolution

1608: 1547: 1256: 1232: 1150: 1073: 988:

to the elevation of Albanians as an Ottoman ruling class such as

964: 937: 913: 886: 866: 850: 731: 691: 345:

In Albanian territories the fustanella was used centuries before

281: 157:

men, regarded as one of the Illyrian ancestors of the Albanians.

123: 119: 60: 16:

Traditional pleated skirt-like garment worn by men of the Balkans

5443: 5308:

Cypriot Medieval Ceramics: Reconsiderations and New Perspectives

3771:

Murawska-Muthesius, Katarzyna (2021). "Mountains and Palikars".

3281:. Historical and Ethnological Society of Greece. p. xxvii. 2511:

KYDALIMOS: Studies in Honor of Prof. Georgios St. Korres, Vol. 3

2067:

Changing of the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, 2005.

460:

Ali Pasha of Janina hunting in the lake of Butrint in March 1819

6929: 6889: 6851: 6846: 6828: 6801: 6773: 6743: 6638: 6573: 6454: 6439: 6277: 6228: 6171: 6161: 6146: 6073: 5989: 5888: 5883: 5878: 5841: 5814: 5768: 5690: 5658: 5590: 5535: 5495: 5490: 4374:(in German). Böhlau Verlag GmbH & Cie. KG. pp. 71–98. 2558:

which by extension gives its name to the whole of the costume."

2248: 2184: 2160: 1864:

Macedonian costumes at the Museum of North Macedonia in Skopje.

1581: 1570: 1455: 1302:). In 1800 they merged into the Royal Macedonian Regiment (It. 1248: 1096: 901: 878: 854: 810: 765: 723: 560: 408: 364: 360: 226: 162: 115: 108: 6909: 6821: 6778: 6661: 6223: 6151: 6141: 6116: 6051: 5863: 5836: 5753: 5738: 5685: 5631: 5583: 5540: 5520: 5306:. In Papanikola-Bakirtzi, Demetra; Coureas, Nicholas (eds.). 3661: 3659: 3657: 3655: 3653: 3472:

The American School of Classical Studies - Digital Collection

1585: 1252: 1185: 976: 921: 896:

of the 12th century; it has been suggested that 11th-century

509: 284:

and can be found in 12th-century finds attributed to Emperor

276: 246: 213: 181: 48: 45: 5046:. Washington, District of Columbia: Smithsonian Institution. 5022:

The Fabric of Cultures: Fashion, Identity, and Globalization

4517:

Greek Costumes: Collection of the National Historical Museum

3278:

Greek Costumes: Collection of the National Historical Museum

3110: 3054: 3052: 3050: 3048: 3001: 2999: 2997: 2995: 2993: 2922: 2920: 2783: 2781: 2779: 2777: 2625: 2623: 2621: 6411: 5908: 5873: 5846: 5783: 5530: 5017:"Fabricating Greekness: From Fustanella to the Glossy Page" 4096: 4094: 4069: 4067: 2687: 2174: 1091:. In 1835, it was proclaimed the official court costume by 1018:

The Albanian-style costume with fustanella was used in the

791: 609:

pants amongst male Albanian Ghegs by village groups of the

207: 177: 56: 5341:

Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia

3650: 3233:] (in English and Turkish). Istanbul: Vehbi Koc Vakfi. 3035: 3033: 3031: 2980: 2978: 2976: 2974: 2907: 2905: 2903: 2901: 2749: 2747: 2745: 2743: 2741: 2714: 5726: 4514: 3610: 3045: 2990: 2917: 2774: 2764: 2762: 2618: 2453:

Greek Dress: From Ancient Times to the Early 20th Century

1599:, associated with the ethnonym of the Albanian sub-group 5409:

Studies In Arab History: The Antonius Lectures 1978-1987

4677:. Thessalonica: Aristotelion Panepistimio Thessaloniki. 4519:. Athens: Historical and Ethnological Society of Greece. 4091: 4079: 4064: 3336: 3018: 3016: 3014: 2704: 2702: 1349:

In Macedonia, the fustanella was worn in the regions of

1243:

that stopped above the knee; this garment was worn with

1239:, the skirts were shortened to create a sort of billowy 546:

purchased this dress when he arrived in Albania in 1809.

4510:. Brighton-Portland: Sussex Academic. pp. 173–194. 4270: 4052: 3854: 3842: 3665: 3028: 2971: 2898: 2738: 1619:

Words for "skirt" and "dress" included for comparison.

524:) into the Albanian-speaking area (to the direction of 349:

rule. A fustanella is depicted on a 13th-century proto-

217:

A relief circa 5th-century BC depicting Archedemus the

4763:. Newcastle upon Tyne: Cambridge Scholars Publishing. 4291: 4118: 3791: 2965: 2759: 1836:, the first leader of the first Aromanian band in the 1488:

was established within the Ottoman army by Mahmud II.

492:. Between 1807 and 1814 it was worn by the men of the 180:

emerged after the Albanian kilt was introduced to the

5245:

Welters, Lisa (1995). "Ethnicity in Greek dress". In

3830: 3735:

Description: Albanian Palikars in pursuit of an enemy

3069: 3067: 3011: 2875:

Archontika tēs Kozanēs: architektonikē kai Xyloglypta

2699: 979:(Peloponnese) was attributed to the influence of the 5337: 4208: 4162: 2818: 2051:

Guard of honour at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier,

1591:

The garment is also known by other names; including

718:

In 1914, the newly formed Greek armed forces of the

707:, which are black shoes with a metal buckle, 2) the 4351:. In Ritter, Markus; Scheiwiller, Staci G. (eds.). 4196: 2932: 2726: 2659: 2289: 2287: 2234: 2232: 1129:, fustanella was worn by volunteers serving in the 869:, wearing fustanella, are depicted in contemporary 5073: 4483: 3770: 3064: 2911: 2647: 2635: 2254: 1454:(1799–1815) the Albanian mercenary troops (Muslim 407:(1799–1815) the Albanian mercenary troops (Muslim 5252:Dress and ethnicity: Change across space and time 4041:, and in whose pouches the armed chieftains, the 4015:Smithsonian Institution & Mouseio Benakē 1959 3999:Smithsonian Institution & Mouseio Benakē 1959 3632:Encyclopedia of Greece and the Hellenic Tradition 2542:Smithsonian Institution & Mouseio Benakē 1959 2343: 2211: 2209: 1035:. On 12 December 1807 they were organized as the 6942: 5040:Smithsonian Institution; Mouseio Benakē (1959). 4721:. New York and Oxford: Oxford University Press. 4452:"Greek Ethnic Survival Under Ottoman Domination" 3357: 3355: 3353: 3351: 2284: 2229: 2020:was a Bulgarian Macedonian revolutionary (1867). 1569:, "wooden baton". Other authors consider this a 5019:. In Paulicelli, Eugenia; Clark, Hazel (eds.). 3871: 3869: 3671: 3316:"Arnaout: Albanian (mounted infantry) regiment" 3189: 3187: 3185: 3183: 3181: 3179: 3177: 3088:"Albania in the Painting of Edward Lear (1848)" 2949: 2947: 2410: 2408: 5310:. A.G. Leventis Foundation. pp. 153–189. 4589:"Le costume albanais dans le contexte sud-est" 4572:. London: Chatto & Windus (Random House). 4527:Ancient Illyria: An Archaeological Exploration 4428: 3820: 3818: 3688: 3686: 3135: 2516:National and Kapodistrian University of Athens 2206: 604: 41: 5459: 4910:The Italo-Albanian Villages of Southern Italy 4405:. Illustrated by Darko Pavlovic. Bloomsbury. 3901: 3899: 3886: 3884: 3558: 3556: 3348: 2433: 2431: 2383: 2381: 2379: 2377: 2375: 2373: 2371: 2339: 2337: 5324: 4484:Chartrand, René; Courcelle, Patrice (2000). 4226: 3980: 3866: 3592: 3490: 3320:Turkish army Crimean war uniforms – Volume 2 3274: 3208: 3206: 3204: 3202: 3174: 3127: 3125: 2944: 2599: 2597: 2414: 2405: 2308: 2306: 1614: 928:and frequently shown covered with a jointed 5255:. Oxford: Berg Publishers. pp. 53–77. 4628: 4458:. Amherst, MA: University of Massachusetts. 4106: 3815: 3683: 3677: 3496: 2449: 1300:"Battaglione Cacciatori Volontari Albanesi" 1283:The fustanella has been in usage among the 1263:. Today it is still worn by the ceremonial 1014:warriors wearing their traditional costume. 423:was established within the Ottoman army by 5466: 5452: 5158: 4930:"Akritan Ikonography on Byzantine Pottery" 4927: 4715:Kazhdan, Alexander Petrovich, ed. (1991). 4706:: CS1 maint: location missing publisher ( 4671:Institute of Modern Greek Studies (1998). 4466:Ottoman Costumes: From Textile to Identity 4319:(in Greek). Athens: Kentro Leksikologias. 4312: 4190: 4100: 4029:(sleeveless coat) which are worn with the 3905: 3896: 3881: 3803: 3553: 3454: 3442: 3430: 3394: 2588: 2437: 2428: 2368: 2334: 470:in Janina, Albania (subsequently Greece), 5390: 5113:"The Greek volunteers in the Crimean War" 5071: 5050: 4997: 4965: 4502: 4379: 4085: 4073: 3912:. Papaloizos Pub: Greek123. p. 107. 3625: 3623: 3586: 3199: 3122: 3116: 2953: 2835: 2594: 2303: 2238: 1930:Greek Presidential Guard officer, Athens. 1279:Albanian family in Calabria in the 1830s. 5107: 5094: 5014: 4788: 4691: 4544: 4429:Beller, Manfred; Leerssen, Joep (2007). 4398: 4249: 3986: 3860: 3848: 3824: 3797: 3709:. Athens: Εκδοτική Αθηνών. p. 277. 3598: 3526: 3520: 3502: 3378: 3376: 3374: 3372: 3370: 3313: 2984: 2871: 2787: 2753: 2693: 2629: 2393: 2387: 2242: 2219: 1502: 1400: 1396: 1274: 1191: 1101: 1041: 1004:Albanian palikars in pursuit of an enemy 998: 942: 844: 758: 678: 570: 530: 212: 40:(for spelling in various languages, see 20: 5244: 5167: 4809: 4777: 4714: 4607: 4586: 4419: 4342:. Greek Society for Ethnology: 127–150. 4271:Angelomatis-Tsougarakis, Helen (1990). 4112: 4058: 3932: 3890: 3875: 3809: 3692: 3644: 3562: 3514: 3212: 3193: 3143: 2768: 2720: 2708: 2677: 2603: 1199:men in Western Macedonia, Greece, 1935. 837:around the department stores in Cairo. 6943: 5362: 5269: 5203: 5141:King Zog: Self-Made Monarch of Albania 4979: 4877: 4739:Albanian Urban Lyric Song in the 1930s 4449: 4369: 4346: 4175:Institute of Modern Greek Studies 1998 4124: 3959: 3836: 3629: 3620: 3574: 3568: 3418: 3361: 3224: 3058: 3039: 3022: 3005: 2926: 2354:, Inst. of Folc Culture. p. 209. 2316: 2312: 2297: 2293: 2278: 2274: 2270: 2266: 2223: 2215: 1159:An old man in Arcadia, Greece (left). 720:Autonomous Republic of Northern Epirus 690:Costume version that was also worn by 427:. In the 1820s the authorities of the 5447: 5407:. In Neil Fodor, Tony McKenna (ed.). 5399: 5298: 5278: 5137: 4906: 4614:(in Albanian). Tirana: Mësonjëtorja. 4523: 4462: 4140:(in Turkish). Tatavla. Archived from 3406: 3382: 3367: 3342: 3149: 3131: 2881:. Athens: Benaki Museum. p. 13. 2819:de la Poer Beresford, George (1855). 2799: 2732: 2507: 2399: 203:, serving as the original prototype. 4853: 4830: 4756: 4735: 4649: 4530:. New York and London: I.B. Tauris. 4469:. Istanbul: Eren. pp. 157–180. 4333: 4214: 4202: 3634:. Taylor & Francis. p. 518. 3104: 3073: 2938: 2665: 2653: 2641: 2328: 2098:warrior in a watercolor painting by 1607:, associated with brigands known as 1480:In the 1820s the authorities of the 992:, the semi-independent ruler of the 388:characteristic of the Albanian men. 5080:. Oxford: Oxford University Press. 4816:. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan. 4565: 4422:The Vlachs: Metropolis and Diaspora 4002: 2567: 1899:, Olympic marathon champion (1896). 656:Albanian traditional costumes from 13: 5057:. London and New York: Routledge. 4718:The Oxford Dictionary of Byzantium 4435:. Amsterdam and New York: Rodopi. 4277:. New York and Oxford: Routledge. 1344: 1255:. This is the costume worn by the 684:Albanian Frontier Guards at Prayer 221:, the builder of the sanctuary of 176:further theorized that the Celtic 14: 6992: 5473: 5427: 5325:Tzortzakakis, Ioannis K. (2023). 4569:Folk Costumes from Eastern Europe 4548:Turkish Army & Navy 1826-1850 4316:Λεξικό της Νέας Ελληνικής Γλώσσας 3294: 3161: 3085: 2456:. Εμπορική Τράπεζα. p. 208. 1051:1st Regiment Greek Light Infantry 694:Albanian warriors in the Ottoman 498:1st Regiment Greek Light Infantry 363:), which were confiscated from a 184:in Britain by the Roman legions. 5161:Il costume femminile di Gizzeria 4243: 4220: 4180: 4168: 4163:Tracey-Miller & Strauss 2014 4156: 4130: 4008: 3992: 3953: 3906:Papaloizos, Theodore C. (2009). 3468:"Ιματιογραφία Γ΄ Ελλάς εν γένει" 3247:The struggle for Northern Epirus 2152: 2126: 2107: 2087: 2072: 2060: 2044: 2025: 2010: 1998: 1982: 1960: 1935: 1923: 1904: 1889: 1869: 1857: 1845: 1826: 1518: 1434: 1425: 1149: 1140: 646: 637: 630:clothing made by local tailors. 449: 438: 314: 305: 5210:American Journal of Archaeology 5177:Journal of Modern Greek Studies 4907:Nasse, George Nicholas (1964). 3926: 3764: 3740: 3716: 3698: 3638: 3604: 3580: 3535:. Palgrave Macmillan. pp. 3508: 3482: 3460: 3448: 3436: 3424: 3412: 3400: 3388: 3307: 3288: 3268: 3237: 3218: 3155: 3098: 3079: 2959: 2865: 2829: 2812: 2793: 2671: 2582: 2573: 2561: 2544:, p. 8: "From the ancient 2535: 2501: 2487: 2473: 2443: 2005:Royal Guard of Albania in 1921. 1373:. In that area, it is known as 1259:, light mountain troops of the 952:Albanais au service d'Ali Pacha 375:region of Albania. In the late 274:, a pleated skirt known as the 187:Some scholars have suggested a 29:warrior wearing fustanella, by 5411:. Springer. pp. 103–117. 5204:Weller, Charles Heald (1903). 5168:Verinis, James P. (May 2005). 5101:Università Ca' Foscari Venezia 5051:Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2014). 4881:Corinth: The Byzantine Pottery 4674:Λεξικό της Κοινής Νεοελληνικής 4601:Academy of Sciences of Albania 4313:Babiniotis, George D. (1998). 3611:Ethniko Historiko Mouseio 1993 3297:"Jean-Léon Gérôme (1824-1904)" 2912:Chartrand & Courcelle 2000 2872:Prokopiu, Geōrgios A. (2019). 2352:Academy of Sciences of Albania 2322: 2260: 2255:Chartrand & Courcelle 2000 1588:where cloth was manufactured. 1482:Ottoman Provincial Governments 1287:since their arrival in Italy. 1107:Detachment of Greek Volunteers 587:In 1848–1849, British painter 429:Ottoman Provincial Governments 417:disbandment of Janissary corps 339:during the early 19th century. 55:that is also referred to as a 1: 6263:Traditional Albanian clothing 5434:Dictionary.com – "Fustanella" 5144:. Stroud: The History Press. 4999:10.3998/ars.13441566.0047.007 4928:Notopoulos, James A. (1964). 4878:Morgan, Charles Hill (1942). 4760:A Journey of the Vocal Iso(n) 4488:. Oxford: Osprey Publishing. 4420:Kukudēs, Asterios I. (2003). 3939:. A&C Black. p. 23. 3777:. Routledge. pp. 77–79. 3421:, pp. 133, 317–318, 333. 2195: 2142: 1972: 1950: 1095:and eventually it became the 1063:British regiment of Zakynthos 478:, published in 1855 (bottom). 471: 468:Audience chamber of Ali Pacha 5163:. Lamezia Terme: Stampa Sud. 5159:Trapuzzano, Camillo (2005). 4980:Scarce, Jennifer M. (2017). 4863:. Revistia. pp. 42–58. 4566:Fox, Lilla Margaret (1977). 3666:Angelomatis-Tsougarakis 1990 3275:Lada-Minōtou, Maria (1993). 2615:named in the Akritic Songs." 2579:Lynch, Strauss, 2014, p. 126 2550: 2495:"The History of Irish Kilts" 2450:Papantoniou, Ioanna (2000). 2226:, pp. 159–164, 170–172. 2200: 1884:in full dress uniform, 1835. 865:warriors, in particular the 536:Lord Byron in Albanian dress 329:Captain of Suliote Albanians 251: 7: 6976:National symbols of Albania 5072:St. Clair, William (1972). 4810:Maxwell, Alexander (2014). 4742:. Lanham: Scarecrow Press. 4629:Gerolymatos, Andre (2003). 4608:Gjergji, Andromaqi (2004). 4587:Gjergji, Andromaqi (2000). 4399:Brnardic, Vladimir (2004). 4250:Koryllos, Christos (1903). 3527:Tzanelli, Rodanthi (2008). 2966:Athanassoglou-Kallmyer 1983 2168: 1357:, the southern area of the 1322:) or "Royal Albanian" (It. 741: 688:Richard Caton Woodville Jr. 598:George de la Poer Beresford 476:George de la Poer Beresford 10: 6997: 5015:Skafidas, Michael (2009). 4551:. Soldiershop Publishing. 4507:The New Albanian Migration 4263: 3933:Karalis, Vrasidas (2012). 3909:Modern Greek: Nea ellenika 3724:"drawing _ British Museum" 2850:10.2972/hesperia.88.2.0365 2800:Beresford, G. de la Poer. 2344:Andromaqi Gjergji (2004). 1989:Black fustanella, worn by 1819: 1326:) or "Royal Hunters" (It. 1069:, breeches and stockings. 764:Prayer in the house of an 296: 137: 6872: 6789: 6706: 6654: 6563: 6463: 6432: 6362: 6255: 6248: 6109: 5802: 5716: 5614: 5571: 5564: 5481: 4635:. New York: Basic Books. 4450:Bialor, Perry A. (2008). 4187:Oxford English Dictionary 3966:. Springer. p. 105. 2418:(1953). "Η φουστανέλλα". 1912:At the carnival in Venice 1615:Name in various languages 1416: 1049:, first commander of the 1006:(1813-4). Watercolour by 973:Greek War of Independence 840: 794:during the early rule of 748:Greek War of Independence 100:Greek War of Independence 5439:The Fustanella in Greece 5346:Rowman & Littlefield 5095:Suparaku, Sokol (2013). 4969:Miti e Cultura Arbëreshë 4545:Flaherty, Chris (2023). 4402:Napoleon's Balkan Troops 4347:Baleva, Martina (2017). 4315: 3314:Flaherty, Chris (2021). 2319:, pp. 158, 170–172. 1308:King Ferdinand of Naples 1270: 1072:In the Peloponnese, the 1008:Charles Robert Cockerell 805:Albanian volunteers and 754: 291: 5392:10.1163/j.ctv1v7zbh3.10 5299:Vroom, Joanita (2014). 4664:10.3406/iliri.1989.1519 4524:Evans, Arthur (2006) . 4294:The Burlington Magazine 3960:Psaras, Marios (2016). 3936:History of Greek Cinema 3630:Speake, Graham (2021). 3168:albanianphotography.net 3164:"Ottoman Costumes 1873" 1530: 1369:, Skopska Blatija, and 1224:(sleeveless coat). The 1127:Crimean War (1853–1856) 1115:Crimean War (1853–1856) 906:Saint Nicholas Orphanos 898:illuminated manuscripts 70:constituted within the 4778:Konitza, Faik (1957). 4692:Karadzic, Vuk (1852). 4253:Χωρογραφία της Ελλάδος 3136: 2825:. London: Day and Son. 2416:Keramopoulos, Antonios 1644:fustanellë/fustanella 1508: 1475:Sultan's Sword Girding 1410: 1385:. The use of the term 1299: 1280: 1200: 1131:Greek Volunteer Legion 1118: 1058: 1015: 959: 858: 778:The sizeable Albanian 775: 699: 698:, established in 1826. 613:or highlanders of the 605: 584: 547: 234: 34: 5189:10.1353/mgs.2005.0010 5138:Tomes, Jason (2011). 4381:10.7788/9783412512255 3086:Elsie, Robert (ed.). 1506: 1404: 1397:Moldova and Wallachia 1320:"Cacciatori Macedoni" 1278: 1195: 1105: 1045: 1002: 946: 848: 762: 682: 667:expose an ornamented 574: 534: 401:Muhammad Ali of Egypt 325:Janissary from Janina 241:garments such as the 216: 80:Muhammad Ali of Egypt 24: 6842:Mexican pointy boots 5348:. pp. 126–128. 5288:Sanat Tarihi Dergisi 5279:Doğer, Lale (2004). 4992:(20220203): 158–77. 4839:. pp. 399–406. 4837:University of Tirana 4784:. Boston, MA: Vatra. 4025:(waistcoat) and the 3613:, p. xxx: "The 3231:Ottoman Costume Book 2591:, pp. 110, 122. 2277:, pp. 241–243; 1405:Begzade Grigore Gr. 1078:William Martin Leake 932:, or with a vest of 790:on the banks of the 506:William Martin Leake 229:, Greece, wearing a 6971:Macedonian clothing 6797:Inuit skin clothing 4144:on 16 December 2011 4138:"Tatavla Karnavalı" 3989:, pp. 150–151. 3505:, pp. 146–147. 3493:, pp. 119–121) 3345:, pp. 103–104. 3227:Osmanlı Kıyafetleri 3119:, pp. 408–409. 3008:, pp. 170–172. 2929:, pp. 170–171. 2723:, pp. 139–175. 2696:, pp. 146–147. 2300:, pp. 241–243. 2281:, pp. 170–172. 1332:"Reggimento Esteri" 1093:King Otto of Greece 1033:Ali Pasha of Janina 367:at the port of the 126:it was worn by the 59:worn by men in the 44:) is a traditional 6966:Bulgarian clothing 6682:Nationella dräkten 6624:Sombrero de catite 6397:Scottish highlands 5272:Sudost-Forschungen 5109:Todorova, Maria N. 4757:Koço, Eno (2015). 4736:Koço, Eno (2004). 4017:, p. 8: "The 3647:, pp. 139–175 3385:, pp. 170–171 3061:, p. 241–243. 2497:. 17 October 2019. 2296:, pp. 77–85; 2273:, pp. 77–85; 2222:, pp. 38–39; 1509: 1411: 1336:"Cacciatori Estero 1328:"Reali Cacciatori" 1281: 1265:Presidential Guard 1220:(waistcoat) and a 1201: 1119: 1059: 1016: 994:Pashalik of Yanina 960: 859: 776: 700: 585: 548: 415:troops. After the 235: 197:Ioanna Papantoniou 174:Baron Franz Nopcsa 35: 6956:Aromanian culture 6951:Albanian clothing 6938: 6937: 6702: 6701: 6604:Traje de flamenca 6244: 6243: 5546:Senegalese kaftan 5355:978-0-7591-2150-8 5317:978-9963-0-8133-2 5262:978-0-85496-879-4 5087:978-0-19-215194-0 5064:978-1-317-45167-9 5032:978-1-135-25356-1 4846:978-9928-134-00-4 4823:978-1-137-27713-8 4770:978-1-4438-7578-3 4749:978-0-8108-4890-0 4642:978-0-465-02731-6 4621:978-99943-614-4-1 4537:978-1-84511-167-0 4476:978-975-6372-04-3 4442:978-90-420-2317-8 4391:978-3-412-51225-5 4326:978-960-86190-0-5 4284:978-0-415-03482-1 3919:978-0-932416-02-5 3546:978-0-230-55199-2 3491:Tzortzakakis 2023 3196:, pp. 85–86. 3042:, pp. 77–85. 2888:978-960-476-261-3 2790:, pp. 38–39. 2632:, pp. 37–38. 2525:978-960-466-231-9 2463:978-960-7059-11-6 2361:978-99943-614-4-1 1943:Albanian in Cairo 1817: 1816: 1310:commissioned the 1292:Kingdom of Naples 1037:Albanian Regiment 948:Un Grec de Janina 904:in the church of 819:mountain fighting 583:, 4 October 1848. 518:John Cam Hobhouse 494:Albanian Regiment 486:Kingdom of Naples 359:(a cloth made of 286:Manuel I Komnenos 98:, and during the 84:Kingdom of Naples 6988: 6807:Ceinture fléchée 6523:Ukrainian wreath 6253: 6252: 6032:Formal Chut Thai 5995:Maria Clara gown 5569: 5568: 5468: 5461: 5454: 5445: 5444: 5422: 5405:"Cairo Memories" 5396: 5394: 5359: 5334: 5321: 5305: 5295: 5285: 5275: 5266: 5241: 5200: 5174: 5164: 5155: 5134: 5104: 5091: 5079: 5068: 5047: 5036: 5011: 5001: 4976: 4974: 4962: 4934: 4924: 4903: 4874: 4862: 4850: 4827: 4806: 4785: 4774: 4753: 4732: 4711: 4705: 4697: 4688: 4667: 4646: 4625: 4604: 4583: 4562: 4541: 4520: 4511: 4499: 4480: 4459: 4446: 4425: 4416: 4395: 4383: 4366: 4343: 4330: 4309: 4300:(965): 487–490. 4288: 4258: 4257: 4247: 4241: 4240: 4228:Balta, Evangelia 4224: 4218: 4212: 4206: 4200: 4194: 4184: 4178: 4172: 4166: 4160: 4154: 4153: 4151: 4149: 4134: 4128: 4122: 4116: 4110: 4104: 4098: 4089: 4083: 4077: 4071: 4062: 4056: 4050: 4012: 4006: 3996: 3990: 3984: 3978: 3977: 3957: 3951: 3950: 3930: 3924: 3923: 3903: 3894: 3888: 3879: 3873: 3864: 3858: 3852: 3846: 3840: 3834: 3828: 3822: 3813: 3807: 3801: 3795: 3789: 3788: 3768: 3762: 3761: 3756: 3754: 3744: 3738: 3737: 3732: 3730: 3720: 3714: 3713: 3702: 3696: 3690: 3681: 3678:Gerolymatos 2003 3675: 3669: 3663: 3648: 3642: 3636: 3635: 3627: 3618: 3608: 3602: 3596: 3590: 3584: 3578: 3572: 3566: 3560: 3551: 3550: 3534: 3524: 3518: 3512: 3506: 3500: 3494: 3486: 3480: 3479: 3464: 3458: 3452: 3446: 3440: 3434: 3428: 3422: 3416: 3410: 3404: 3398: 3392: 3386: 3380: 3365: 3359: 3346: 3340: 3334: 3333: 3311: 3305: 3304: 3292: 3286: 3285: 3272: 3266: 3265: 3241: 3235: 3234: 3222: 3216: 3210: 3197: 3191: 3172: 3171: 3159: 3153: 3147: 3141: 3139: 3129: 3120: 3114: 3108: 3102: 3096: 3095: 3083: 3077: 3071: 3062: 3056: 3043: 3037: 3026: 3020: 3009: 3003: 2988: 2982: 2969: 2963: 2957: 2951: 2942: 2936: 2930: 2924: 2915: 2909: 2896: 2895: 2880: 2869: 2863: 2861: 2833: 2827: 2826: 2816: 2810: 2809: 2797: 2791: 2785: 2772: 2766: 2757: 2751: 2736: 2730: 2724: 2718: 2712: 2706: 2697: 2691: 2685: 2675: 2669: 2663: 2657: 2651: 2645: 2639: 2633: 2627: 2616: 2601: 2592: 2586: 2580: 2577: 2571: 2565: 2559: 2553: 2539: 2533: 2532: 2505: 2499: 2498: 2491: 2485: 2484: 2477: 2471: 2470: 2447: 2441: 2435: 2426: 2425: 2412: 2403: 2397: 2391: 2385: 2366: 2365: 2341: 2332: 2326: 2320: 2310: 2301: 2291: 2282: 2264: 2258: 2252: 2246: 2245:, pp. 37–38 2236: 2227: 2213: 2156: 2147: 2144: 2130: 2119:Jean-Léon Gérôme 2115:Albanian Officer 2111: 2091: 2082:in Thrace, 1938. 2076: 2064: 2048: 2033:Souliote Warrior 2029: 2014: 2002: 1991:Greek Macedonian 1986: 1977: 1974: 1967:Albanian leader 1964: 1955: 1952: 1947:Jean-Léon Gérôme 1939: 1927: 1908: 1893: 1873: 1861: 1849: 1830: 1753:Megleno-Romanian 1622: 1621: 1438: 1429: 1304:"Real Macedonia" 1285:Arbëreshë people 1237:Bavarian regency 1153: 1144: 1099:national dress. 807:mounted infantry 800:Jean-Léon Gérôme 772:Jean-Léon Gérôme 650: 641: 608: 473: 453: 442: 377:Byzantine period 318: 309: 288:(r. 1143–1180). 272:Byzantine Empire 265:Classical Athens 254: 159:Sir Arthur Evans 92:British regiment 6996: 6995: 6991: 6990: 6989: 6987: 6986: 6985: 6941: 6940: 6939: 6934: 6868: 6785: 6698: 6650: 6559: 6459: 6428: 6383:Windsor uniform 6358: 6240: 6105: 5798: 5779:Peshawari pagri 5712: 5610: 5560: 5477: 5472: 5430: 5425: 5419: 5375: 5356: 5318: 5303: 5283: 5263: 5172: 5152: 5088: 5065: 5033: 4972: 4932: 4921: 4892: 4871: 4870:978-164669411-2 4860: 4847: 4824: 4771: 4750: 4729: 4699: 4698: 4694:Srspski rjecnik 4685: 4643: 4622: 4593:Studia Albanica 4580: 4559: 4538: 4496: 4477: 4443: 4413: 4392: 4363: 4327: 4317: 4285: 4266: 4261: 4248: 4244: 4225: 4221: 4213: 4209: 4201: 4197: 4191:Babiniotis 1998 4185: 4181: 4173: 4169: 4161: 4157: 4147: 4145: 4136: 4135: 4131: 4123: 4119: 4111: 4107: 4101:Trapuzzano 2005 4099: 4092: 4084: 4080: 4072: 4065: 4057: 4053: 4013: 4009: 3997: 3993: 3985: 3981: 3974: 3958: 3954: 3947: 3931: 3927: 3920: 3904: 3897: 3889: 3882: 3874: 3867: 3859: 3855: 3847: 3843: 3835: 3831: 3823: 3816: 3808: 3804: 3796: 3792: 3785: 3769: 3765: 3752: 3750: 3746: 3745: 3741: 3728: 3726: 3722: 3721: 3717: 3703: 3699: 3691: 3684: 3676: 3672: 3664: 3651: 3643: 3639: 3628: 3621: 3609: 3605: 3597: 3593: 3585: 3581: 3573: 3569: 3561: 3554: 3547: 3525: 3521: 3513: 3509: 3501: 3497: 3487: 3483: 3466: 3465: 3461: 3455:Notopoulos 1964 3453: 3449: 3443:Notopoulos 1964 3441: 3437: 3431:Notopoulos 1964 3429: 3425: 3417: 3413: 3405: 3401: 3395:Notopoulos 1964 3393: 3389: 3381: 3368: 3360: 3349: 3341: 3337: 3330: 3312: 3308: 3301:albanianart.net 3295:Elsie, Robert. 3293: 3289: 3273: 3269: 3258: 3242: 3238: 3223: 3219: 3211: 3200: 3192: 3175: 3162:Elsie, Robert. 3160: 3156: 3148: 3144: 3130: 3123: 3115: 3111: 3103: 3099: 3092:albanianart.net 3084: 3080: 3072: 3065: 3057: 3046: 3038: 3029: 3021: 3012: 3004: 2991: 2983: 2972: 2964: 2960: 2952: 2945: 2937: 2933: 2925: 2918: 2910: 2899: 2889: 2878: 2870: 2866: 2834: 2830: 2817: 2813: 2798: 2794: 2786: 2775: 2767: 2760: 2752: 2739: 2731: 2727: 2719: 2715: 2707: 2700: 2692: 2688: 2676: 2672: 2664: 2660: 2652: 2648: 2640: 2636: 2628: 2619: 2602: 2595: 2589:Notopoulos 1964 2587: 2583: 2578: 2574: 2566: 2562: 2548:and the common 2540: 2536: 2526: 2518:. p. 157. 2506: 2502: 2493: 2492: 2488: 2479: 2478: 2474: 2464: 2448: 2444: 2438:Notopoulos 1964 2436: 2429: 2413: 2406: 2398: 2394: 2386: 2369: 2362: 2342: 2335: 2327: 2323: 2315:, p. 202; 2311: 2304: 2292: 2285: 2269:, p. 202; 2265: 2261: 2253: 2249: 2237: 2230: 2218:, p. 202; 2214: 2207: 2203: 2198: 2190:Medieval Armour 2171: 2164: 2157: 2148: 2145: 2131: 2122: 2112: 2103: 2092: 2083: 2077: 2068: 2065: 2056: 2055:, Athens, 2006. 2053:Syntagma Square 2049: 2040: 2030: 2021: 2015: 2006: 2003: 1994: 1987: 1978: 1975: 1971:, photographed 1965: 1956: 1953: 1940: 1931: 1928: 1919: 1909: 1900: 1894: 1885: 1874: 1865: 1862: 1853: 1850: 1841: 1831: 1822: 1798: 1793: 1788: 1746: 1741: 1736: 1709: 1704: 1699: 1687: 1682: 1677: 1617: 1533: 1521: 1448: 1447: 1446: 1445: 1441: 1440: 1439: 1431: 1430: 1419: 1399: 1347: 1345:North Macedonia 1324:"Real Albanese" 1273: 1167: 1166: 1165: 1164: 1156: 1155: 1154: 1146: 1145: 873:. On Byzantine 843: 757: 744: 664: 663: 662: 661: 653: 652: 651: 643: 642: 540:Thomas Phillips 514:Pasha of Yanina 482: 481: 480: 479: 456: 455: 454: 445: 444: 443: 343: 342: 341: 340: 321: 320: 319: 311: 310: 299: 294: 282:Akritic warrior 206:Concerning the 140: 122:since 1868. In 17: 12: 11: 5: 6994: 6984: 6983: 6978: 6973: 6968: 6963: 6961:Greek clothing 6958: 6953: 6936: 6935: 6933: 6932: 6927: 6922: 6917: 6912: 6907: 6902: 6897: 6892: 6887: 6882: 6876: 6874: 6870: 6869: 6867: 6866: 6865: 6864: 6859: 6854: 6849: 6844: 6839: 6831: 6826: 6825: 6824: 6819: 6809: 6804: 6799: 6793: 6791: 6787: 6786: 6784: 6783: 6782: 6781: 6771: 6766: 6761: 6756: 6751: 6746: 6741: 6740: 6739: 6734: 6732:Chilote poncho 6729: 6724: 6716: 6710: 6708: 6704: 6703: 6700: 6699: 6697: 6696: 6695: 6694: 6692:Sverigedräkten 6689: 6684: 6674: 6669: 6664: 6658: 6656: 6652: 6651: 6649: 6648: 6647: 6646: 6641: 6633: 6632: 6631: 6626: 6621: 6616: 6611: 6606: 6598: 6597: 6596: 6594:Breton costume 6588: 6587: 6586: 6581: 6576: 6567: 6565: 6561: 6560: 6558: 6557: 6556: 6555: 6550: 6548:Orenburg shawl 6545: 6540: 6535: 6527: 6526: 6525: 6520: 6515: 6510: 6505: 6500: 6495: 6485: 6484: 6483: 6473: 6467: 6465: 6461: 6460: 6458: 6457: 6452: 6447: 6442: 6436: 6434: 6430: 6429: 6427: 6426: 6421: 6420: 6419: 6414: 6409: 6407:Feather bonnet 6404: 6394: 6389: 6388: 6387: 6386: 6385: 6375: 6366: 6364: 6360: 6359: 6357: 6356: 6355: 6354: 6344: 6339: 6334: 6333: 6332: 6327: 6322: 6312: 6307: 6302: 6297: 6296: 6295: 6290: 6285: 6280: 6275: 6270: 6259: 6257: 6250: 6246: 6245: 6242: 6241: 6239: 6238: 6237: 6236: 6226: 6221: 6216: 6211: 6206: 6201: 6196: 6191: 6190: 6189: 6184: 6179: 6174: 6169: 6164: 6154: 6149: 6144: 6139: 6134: 6129: 6124: 6119: 6113: 6111: 6107: 6106: 6104: 6103: 6102: 6101: 6096: 6091: 6086: 6076: 6071: 6070: 6069: 6064: 6059: 6054: 6049: 6044: 6039: 6034: 6029: 6024: 6019: 6009: 6008: 6007: 6002: 5997: 5992: 5987: 5982: 5977: 5975:Barong tagalog 5967: 5966: 5965: 5960: 5955: 5950: 5945: 5935: 5934: 5933: 5928: 5923: 5913: 5912: 5911: 5906: 5901: 5896: 5891: 5886: 5881: 5876: 5871: 5866: 5861: 5851: 5850: 5849: 5844: 5839: 5834: 5824: 5823: 5822: 5817: 5806: 5804: 5800: 5799: 5797: 5796: 5791: 5789:Shalwar kameez 5786: 5781: 5776: 5771: 5766: 5761: 5756: 5751: 5746: 5741: 5736: 5735: 5734: 5729: 5720: 5718: 5714: 5713: 5711: 5710: 5709: 5708: 5703: 5698: 5693: 5688: 5683: 5678: 5668: 5667: 5666: 5661: 5656: 5646: 5645: 5644: 5639: 5634: 5629: 5618: 5616: 5612: 5611: 5609: 5608: 5603: 5598: 5593: 5588: 5587: 5586: 5575: 5573: 5566: 5562: 5561: 5559: 5558: 5553: 5548: 5543: 5538: 5533: 5528: 5523: 5518: 5513: 5508: 5503: 5498: 5493: 5487: 5485: 5479: 5478: 5471: 5470: 5463: 5456: 5448: 5442: 5441: 5436: 5429: 5428:External links 5426: 5424: 5423: 5417: 5397: 5373: 5360: 5354: 5335: 5322: 5316: 5296: 5290:(in Turkish). 5276: 5274:(21): 102–143. 5267: 5261: 5247:Eicher, Joanne 5242: 5222:10.2307/496689 5216:(3): 263–288. 5201: 5183:(1): 139–175. 5165: 5156: 5150: 5135: 5125:(2): 539–563. 5118:Balkan Studies 5105: 5092: 5086: 5069: 5063: 5048: 5037: 5031: 5012: 4986:Ars Orientalis 4977: 4963: 4945:(2): 108–133. 4925: 4919: 4904: 4890: 4875: 4869: 4851: 4845: 4828: 4822: 4807: 4791:Endymatologika 4786: 4775: 4769: 4754: 4748: 4733: 4727: 4712: 4689: 4683: 4668: 4658:(1): 213–240. 4647: 4641: 4626: 4620: 4605: 4584: 4578: 4563: 4557: 4542: 4536: 4521: 4512: 4500: 4494: 4481: 4475: 4460: 4447: 4441: 4426: 4417: 4411: 4396: 4390: 4367: 4361: 4344: 4331: 4325: 4310: 4289: 4283: 4267: 4265: 4262: 4260: 4259: 4242: 4219: 4217:, p. 137. 4207: 4195: 4179: 4167: 4155: 4129: 4127:, p. 164. 4117: 4105: 4090: 4086:Romagnoli 2010 4078: 4074:Romagnoli 2010 4063: 4061:, p. 182. 4051: 4021:(bolero), the 4007: 4001:, p. 31; 3991: 3979: 3972: 3952: 3945: 3925: 3918: 3895: 3880: 3865: 3863:, p. 559. 3853: 3851:, p. 544. 3841: 3839:, p. 172. 3829: 3827:, p. 150. 3814: 3802: 3790: 3783: 3763: 3739: 3715: 3697: 3682: 3670: 3649: 3637: 3619: 3603: 3591: 3587:St. Clair 1972 3579: 3567: 3552: 3545: 3519: 3507: 3495: 3481: 3459: 3447: 3435: 3423: 3411: 3399: 3387: 3366: 3347: 3335: 3328: 3306: 3287: 3267: 3256: 3236: 3217: 3198: 3173: 3154: 3142: 3121: 3117:Hernandez 2019 3109: 3097: 3078: 3063: 3044: 3027: 3025:, p. 202. 3010: 2989: 2987:, p. 170. 2970: 2958: 2954:De Rapper 2005 2943: 2941:, p. 405. 2931: 2916: 2897: 2887: 2864: 2844:(2): 365–419. 2828: 2811: 2792: 2773: 2771:, p. 115. 2758: 2756:, p. 114. 2737: 2725: 2713: 2698: 2686: 2670: 2668:, p. 224. 2658: 2646: 2634: 2617: 2593: 2581: 2572: 2560: 2534: 2524: 2500: 2486: 2472: 2462: 2442: 2427: 2404: 2392: 2390:, p. 148. 2367: 2360: 2333: 2321: 2302: 2283: 2259: 2247: 2241:, p. 68; 2239:Romagnoli 2010 2228: 2204: 2202: 2199: 2197: 2194: 2193: 2192: 2187: 2182: 2177: 2170: 2167: 2166: 2165: 2163:, 19th century 2158: 2151: 2149: 2132: 2125: 2123: 2113: 2106: 2104: 2093: 2086: 2084: 2078: 2071: 2069: 2066: 2059: 2057: 2050: 2043: 2041: 2031: 2024: 2022: 2016: 2009: 2007: 2004: 1997: 1995: 1988: 1981: 1979: 1966: 1959: 1957: 1941: 1934: 1932: 1929: 1922: 1920: 1916:Mikhail Scotti 1914:, painting by 1910: 1903: 1901: 1897:Spiridon Louis 1895: 1888: 1886: 1875: 1868: 1866: 1863: 1856: 1854: 1851: 1844: 1842: 1834:Ioryi Mucitano 1832: 1825: 1821: 1818: 1815: 1814: 1811: 1809: 1807: 1801: 1800: 1795: 1790: 1785: 1783:Serbo-Croatian 1779: 1778: 1776: 1773: 1770: 1764: 1763: 1760: 1758: 1755: 1749: 1748: 1743: 1738: 1733: 1727: 1726: 1724: 1721: 1718: 1712: 1711: 1706: 1701: 1700:(foustanélla) 1696: 1690: 1689: 1684: 1679: 1674: 1668: 1667: 1664: 1661: 1658: 1652: 1651: 1648: 1645: 1642: 1636: 1635: 1632: 1629: 1626: 1616: 1613: 1584:, a suburb of 1556:Medieval Latin 1532: 1529: 1520: 1517: 1452:Napoleonic era 1443: 1442: 1433: 1432: 1424: 1423: 1422: 1421: 1420: 1418: 1415: 1398: 1395: 1346: 1343: 1316:Richard Church 1272: 1269: 1251:or decorative 1182:Aegean islands 1158: 1157: 1148: 1147: 1139: 1138: 1137: 1136: 1135: 1074:Greeks of Mani 1055:dragoon helmet 1047:Richard Church 1020:Ionian Islands 891:Medieval Greek 875:pottery sherds 842: 839: 802:'s paintings. 756: 753: 743: 740: 655: 654: 645: 644: 636: 635: 634: 633: 632: 490:Ionian Islands 466:(1825) (top). 458: 457: 448: 447: 446: 437: 436: 435: 434: 433: 405:Napoleonic era 393:Ottoman Empire 386:ethnic costume 381:Ottoman period 379:and the early 337:Ionian Islands 333:Ottoman Empire 323: 322: 313: 312: 304: 303: 302: 301: 300: 298: 295: 293: 290: 139: 136: 88:Ionian Islands 72:Ottoman Empire 15: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 6993: 6982: 6979: 6977: 6974: 6972: 6969: 6967: 6964: 6962: 6959: 6957: 6954: 6952: 6949: 6948: 6946: 6931: 6928: 6926: 6923: 6921: 6918: 6916: 6913: 6911: 6908: 6906: 6903: 6901: 6898: 6896: 6893: 6891: 6888: 6886: 6885:Feather cloak 6883: 6881: 6878: 6877: 6875: 6871: 6863: 6860: 6858: 6855: 6853: 6850: 6848: 6845: 6843: 6840: 6838: 6835: 6834: 6832: 6830: 6827: 6823: 6820: 6818: 6815: 6814: 6813: 6810: 6808: 6805: 6803: 6800: 6798: 6795: 6794: 6792: 6790:North America 6788: 6780: 6777: 6776: 6775: 6772: 6770: 6767: 6765: 6762: 6760: 6757: 6755: 6752: 6750: 6747: 6745: 6742: 6738: 6735: 6733: 6730: 6728: 6725: 6723: 6720: 6719: 6717: 6715: 6712: 6711: 6709: 6707:South America 6705: 6693: 6690: 6688: 6685: 6683: 6680: 6679: 6678: 6675: 6673: 6670: 6668: 6665: 6663: 6660: 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5357: 5351: 5347: 5343: 5342: 5336: 5332: 5328: 5323: 5319: 5313: 5309: 5302: 5297: 5293: 5289: 5282: 5277: 5273: 5268: 5264: 5258: 5254: 5253: 5248: 5243: 5239: 5235: 5231: 5227: 5223: 5219: 5215: 5211: 5207: 5202: 5198: 5194: 5190: 5186: 5182: 5178: 5171: 5166: 5162: 5157: 5153: 5151:9780752470870 5147: 5143: 5142: 5136: 5132: 5128: 5124: 5120: 5119: 5114: 5110: 5106: 5102: 5098: 5093: 5089: 5083: 5078: 5077: 5070: 5066: 5060: 5056: 5055: 5049: 5045: 5044: 5038: 5034: 5028: 5024: 5023: 5018: 5013: 5009: 5005: 5000: 4995: 4991: 4987: 4983: 4978: 4971: 4970: 4964: 4960: 4956: 4952: 4948: 4944: 4940: 4939: 4931: 4926: 4922: 4920:9780598204004 4916: 4912: 4911: 4905: 4901: 4897: 4893: 4891:9780876611111 4887: 4883: 4882: 4876: 4872: 4866: 4859: 4858: 4852: 4848: 4842: 4838: 4834: 4829: 4825: 4819: 4815: 4814: 4808: 4804: 4800: 4796: 4792: 4787: 4783: 4782: 4776: 4772: 4766: 4762: 4761: 4755: 4751: 4745: 4741: 4740: 4734: 4730: 4728:0-19-504652-8 4724: 4720: 4719: 4713: 4709: 4703: 4695: 4690: 4686: 4684:9789602310854 4680: 4676: 4675: 4669: 4665: 4661: 4657: 4653: 4648: 4644: 4638: 4634: 4633: 4627: 4623: 4617: 4613: 4612: 4606: 4602: 4598: 4594: 4590: 4585: 4581: 4579:0-7011-5092-0 4575: 4571: 4570: 4564: 4560: 4558:9788893279505 4554: 4550: 4549: 4543: 4539: 4533: 4529: 4528: 4522: 4518: 4513: 4509: 4508: 4501: 4497: 4495:1-85532-859-3 4491: 4487: 4482: 4478: 4472: 4468: 4467: 4461: 4457: 4453: 4448: 4444: 4438: 4434: 4433: 4427: 4423: 4418: 4414: 4412:9781841767000 4408: 4404: 4403: 4397: 4393: 4387: 4382: 4377: 4373: 4368: 4364: 4362:9783110590876 4358: 4354: 4350: 4345: 4341: 4337: 4332: 4328: 4322: 4318: 4311: 4307: 4303: 4299: 4295: 4290: 4286: 4280: 4276: 4275: 4269: 4268: 4255: 4254: 4246: 4239: 4235: 4234: 4229: 4223: 4216: 4211: 4205:, p. 15. 4204: 4199: 4192: 4188: 4183: 4176: 4171: 4165:, p. 127 4164: 4159: 4143: 4139: 4133: 4126: 4121: 4115:, p. 207 4114: 4109: 4102: 4097: 4095: 4088:, p. 69. 4087: 4082: 4076:, p. 68. 4075: 4070: 4068: 4060: 4055: 4048: 4044: 4040: 4036: 4032: 4028: 4024: 4020: 4016: 4011: 4005:, p. 56. 4004: 4000: 3995: 3988: 3987:Skafidas 2009 3983: 3975: 3973:9783319403106 3969: 3965: 3964: 3956: 3948: 3946:9781441194473 3942: 3938: 3937: 3929: 3921: 3915: 3911: 3910: 3902: 3900: 3892: 3887: 3885: 3877: 3872: 3870: 3862: 3861:Todorova 1984 3857: 3850: 3849:Todorova 1984 3845: 3838: 3833: 3826: 3825:Skafidas 2009 3821: 3819: 3811: 3806: 3800:, p. 37. 3799: 3798:Brnardic 2004 3794: 3786: 3784:9781351034401 3780: 3776: 3775: 3767: 3760: 3749: 3743: 3736: 3725: 3719: 3712: 3708: 3701: 3694: 3689: 3687: 3679: 3674: 3667: 3662: 3660: 3658: 3656: 3654: 3646: 3641: 3633: 3626: 3624: 3616: 3612: 3607: 3600: 3599:Skafidas 2009 3595: 3588: 3583: 3576: 3571: 3564: 3559: 3557: 3548: 3542: 3538: 3533: 3532: 3523: 3516: 3511: 3504: 3503:Skafidas 2009 3499: 3492: 3485: 3478: 3473: 3469: 3463: 3456: 3451: 3444: 3439: 3432: 3427: 3420: 3415: 3408: 3403: 3396: 3391: 3384: 3379: 3377: 3375: 3373: 3371: 3363: 3358: 3356: 3354: 3352: 3344: 3339: 3331: 3329:9788893277846 3325: 3321: 3317: 3310: 3302: 3298: 3291: 3284: 3280: 3279: 3271: 3264: 3259: 3257:9789607897404 3253: 3249: 3248: 3240: 3232: 3228: 3221: 3215:, p. 67. 3214: 3209: 3207: 3205: 3203: 3195: 3190: 3188: 3186: 3184: 3182: 3180: 3178: 3169: 3165: 3158: 3152:, p. 44. 3151: 3146: 3138: 3133: 3128: 3126: 3118: 3113: 3106: 3101: 3093: 3089: 3082: 3076:, p. 47. 3075: 3070: 3068: 3060: 3055: 3053: 3051: 3049: 3041: 3036: 3034: 3032: 3024: 3019: 3017: 3015: 3007: 3002: 3000: 2998: 2996: 2994: 2986: 2985:Suparaku 2013 2981: 2979: 2977: 2975: 2967: 2962: 2955: 2950: 2948: 2940: 2935: 2928: 2923: 2921: 2913: 2908: 2906: 2904: 2902: 2894: 2890: 2884: 2877: 2876: 2868: 2859: 2855: 2851: 2847: 2843: 2839: 2832: 2824: 2823: 2815: 2807: 2803: 2796: 2789: 2788:Flaherty 2023 2784: 2782: 2780: 2778: 2770: 2765: 2763: 2755: 2754:Langkjær 2012 2750: 2748: 2746: 2744: 2742: 2734: 2729: 2722: 2717: 2711:, p. 59. 2710: 2705: 2703: 2695: 2694:Skafidas 2009 2690: 2683: 2679: 2674: 2667: 2662: 2655: 2650: 2644:, p. 54. 2643: 2638: 2631: 2630:Brnardic 2004 2626: 2624: 2622: 2614: 2609: 2605: 2600: 2598: 2590: 2585: 2576: 2569: 2564: 2557: 2552: 2547: 2543: 2538: 2531: 2527: 2521: 2517: 2513: 2512: 2504: 2496: 2490: 2482: 2476: 2469: 2465: 2459: 2455: 2454: 2446: 2440:, p. 114 2439: 2434: 2432: 2423: 2422: 2417: 2411: 2409: 2401: 2396: 2389: 2388:Skafidas 2009 2384: 2382: 2380: 2378: 2376: 2374: 2372: 2363: 2357: 2353: 2349: 2348: 2340: 2338: 2331:, p. 161 2330: 2325: 2318: 2314: 2309: 2307: 2299: 2295: 2290: 2288: 2280: 2276: 2272: 2268: 2263: 2257:, p. 20. 2256: 2251: 2244: 2243:Brnardic 2004 2240: 2235: 2233: 2225: 2221: 2220:Flaherty 2023 2217: 2212: 2210: 2205: 2191: 2188: 2186: 2183: 2181: 2178: 2176: 2173: 2172: 2162: 2155: 2150: 2140: 2136: 2129: 2124: 2120: 2116: 2110: 2105: 2101: 2097: 2090: 2085: 2081: 2075: 2070: 2063: 2058: 2054: 2047: 2042: 2038: 2034: 2028: 2023: 2019: 2013: 2008: 2001: 1996: 1992: 1985: 1980: 1970: 1963: 1958: 1948: 1944: 1938: 1933: 1926: 1921: 1917: 1913: 1907: 1902: 1898: 1892: 1887: 1883: 1882:Royal Phalanx 1879: 1872: 1867: 1860: 1855: 1848: 1843: 1839: 1835: 1829: 1824: 1823: 1812: 1810: 1808: 1806: 1803: 1802: 1796: 1791: 1786: 1784: 1781: 1780: 1777: 1774: 1771: 1769: 1766: 1765: 1761: 1759: 1756: 1754: 1751: 1750: 1744: 1739: 1734: 1732: 1729: 1728: 1725: 1722: 1719: 1717: 1714: 1713: 1707: 1702: 1697: 1695: 1692: 1691: 1685: 1680: 1675: 1673: 1670: 1669: 1665: 1662: 1659: 1657: 1654: 1653: 1649: 1646: 1643: 1641: 1638: 1637: 1633: 1630: 1627: 1624: 1623: 1620: 1612: 1610: 1606: 1602: 1598: 1594: 1589: 1587: 1583: 1579: 1576: 1572: 1568: 1564: 1560: 1557: 1553: 1549: 1545: 1542: 1539:derives from 1538: 1528: 1526: 1525:United States 1519:United States 1516: 1514: 1505: 1501: 1498: 1494: 1489: 1487: 1483: 1478: 1476: 1472: 1468: 1463: 1461: 1457: 1453: 1437: 1428: 1414: 1408: 1403: 1394: 1392: 1388: 1384: 1380: 1376: 1372: 1368: 1364: 1360: 1356: 1352: 1342: 1339: 1337: 1333: 1329: 1325: 1321: 1317: 1313: 1309: 1305: 1301: 1297: 1293: 1288: 1286: 1277: 1268: 1266: 1262: 1261:Hellenic Army 1258: 1254: 1250: 1247:, and either 1246: 1242: 1238: 1234: 1229: 1227: 1223: 1219: 1215: 1209: 1206: 1198: 1194: 1190: 1187: 1184:, whereas in 1183: 1178: 1176: 1172: 1162: 1152: 1143: 1134: 1132: 1128: 1123: 1116: 1113:, during the 1112: 1108: 1104: 1100: 1098: 1094: 1090: 1085: 1083: 1079: 1075: 1070: 1068: 1064: 1056: 1052: 1048: 1044: 1040: 1038: 1034: 1029: 1025: 1021: 1013: 1009: 1005: 1001: 997: 995: 991: 986: 983:community of 982: 978: 974: 970: 966: 963:irregulars – 957: 953: 949: 945: 941: 939: 935: 931: 927: 923: 919: 915: 911: 907: 903: 899: 895: 894:acritic songs 892: 888: 884: 880: 877:from Greece, 876: 872: 871:Byzantine art 868: 864: 856: 852: 847: 838: 836: 831: 828: 824: 820: 817:, experts of 816: 812: 808: 803: 801: 797: 793: 789: 785: 781: 773: 769: 767: 761: 752: 749: 739: 737: 733: 729: 725: 721: 716: 714: 710: 706: 697: 693: 689: 685: 681: 677: 675: 670: 659: 649: 640: 631: 628: 624: 620: 616: 612: 607: 601: 599: 595: 590: 582: 578: 575:Albanians in 573: 569: 566: 562: 558: 553: 545: 541: 537: 533: 529: 527: 523: 519: 515: 511: 507: 501: 499: 495: 491: 487: 477: 469: 465: 461: 452: 441: 432: 430: 426: 422: 418: 414: 410: 406: 402: 398: 397:Ali of Yanina 394: 389: 387: 382: 378: 374: 370: 366: 362: 358: 357: 352: 348: 338: 334: 330: 326: 317: 308: 289: 287: 283: 279: 278: 273: 268: 266: 262: 258: 253: 248: 244: 240: 239:ancient Greek 232: 228: 224: 220: 215: 211: 209: 204: 202: 201:Roman legions 198: 194: 190: 185: 183: 179: 175: 170: 168: 164: 160: 156: 152: 147: 145: 135: 133: 129: 125: 121: 117: 112: 110: 106: 101: 97: 96:Philhellenism 93: 89: 85: 81: 77: 76:Ali of Yanina 73: 69: 64: 62: 58: 54: 50: 47: 43: 39: 32: 28: 23: 19: 6862:Quechquemitl 6812:Western wear 6687:Bäckadräkten 6655:Scandinavian 6619:Cordovan hat 6570:Netherlands 6309: 6177:Tallit katan 6094:Áo giao lĩnh 6022:Chong kraben 5408: 5401:Wahba, Magdi 5364: 5340: 5330: 5326: 5307: 5291: 5287: 5271: 5251: 5213: 5209: 5180: 5176: 5160: 5140: 5122: 5116: 5096: 5075: 5053: 5042: 5021: 4989: 4985: 4968: 4942: 4936: 4909: 4880: 4856: 4832: 4812: 4794: 4790: 4780: 4759: 4738: 4716: 4693: 4673: 4655: 4651: 4631: 4610: 4596: 4592: 4568: 4547: 4526: 4516: 4506: 4485: 4465: 4455: 4431: 4421: 4401: 4371: 4352: 4339: 4338:(in Greek). 4335: 4297: 4293: 4273: 4252: 4245: 4237: 4232: 4222: 4210: 4198: 4182: 4170: 4158: 4146:. Retrieved 4142:the original 4132: 4120: 4113:Gjergji 2004 4108: 4103:, p. 9. 4081: 4059:Gjergji 2000 4054: 4046: 4042: 4038: 4034: 4030: 4026: 4022: 4018: 4010: 3994: 3982: 3962: 3955: 3935: 3928: 3908: 3891:Maxwell 2014 3876:Welters 1995 3856: 3844: 3832: 3810:Maxwell 2014 3805: 3793: 3773: 3766: 3758: 3751:. Retrieved 3742: 3734: 3727:. Retrieved 3718: 3710: 3706: 3700: 3693:Welters 1995 3673: 3645:Verinis 2005 3640: 3631: 3614: 3606: 3594: 3582: 3570: 3563:Maxwell 2014 3530: 3522: 3515:Verinis 2005 3510: 3498: 3484: 3475: 3471: 3462: 3450: 3438: 3426: 3414: 3409:, p. 89 3402: 3390: 3338: 3319: 3309: 3300: 3290: 3282: 3277: 3270: 3261: 3246: 3239: 3230: 3226: 3220: 3213:Konitza 1957 3194:Konitza 1957 3167: 3157: 3145: 3112: 3100: 3091: 3081: 2961: 2934: 2892: 2874: 2867: 2841: 2837: 2831: 2821: 2814: 2805: 2795: 2769:Gjergji 2004 2728: 2721:Verinis 2005 2716: 2709:Welters 1995 2689: 2681: 2678:Gjergji 2004 2673: 2661: 2649: 2637: 2612: 2607: 2604:Kazhdan 1991 2584: 2575: 2563: 2555: 2545: 2537: 2529: 2514:(in Greek). 2510: 2503: 2489: 2475: 2467: 2452: 2445: 2420: 2395: 2346: 2324: 2262: 2250: 2139:Dymi, Achaea 2114: 2032: 2018:Ilyo Voyvoda 1969:Hamza Kazazi 1942: 1911: 1678:(fustanela) 1628:Short skirt 1618: 1604: 1596: 1592: 1590: 1577: 1566: 1561:, perhaps a 1558: 1551: 1543: 1536: 1534: 1522: 1510: 1490: 1486:Mansure Army 1479: 1464: 1449: 1412: 1386: 1382: 1378: 1374: 1359:South Morava 1348: 1340: 1335: 1331: 1327: 1323: 1319: 1303: 1289: 1282: 1230: 1225: 1221: 1217: 1216:(bolero), a 1213: 1210: 1205:Greek cinema 1202: 1179: 1168: 1124: 1120: 1106: 1086: 1071: 1066: 1060: 1017: 1003: 961: 951: 947: 910:Thessaloniki 860: 832: 809:were called 804: 777: 763: 745: 727: 717: 712: 708: 704: 701: 696:Mansure Army 683: 673: 665: 602: 586: 579:depicted by 549: 535: 502: 483: 467: 459: 421:Mansure Army 390: 354: 344: 328: 324: 275: 269: 236: 205: 186: 171: 148: 141: 113: 65: 37: 36: 18: 6880:Grass skirt 6754:Liqui liqui 6727:Chilote cap 6644:Coppola cap 6538:Kosovorotka 6503:Kozhushanka 6110:Middle East 6047:Raj pattern 6037:Pha khao ma 5980:Baro't saya 5970:Philippines 5948:Baju Melayu 5943:Baju Kurung 5820:Gaung baung 5579:Afghanistan 5526:Kente cloth 5294:(2): 79–98. 4797:: 111–119. 4336:Ethnologhia 4148:28 December 4125:Scarce 2017 3837:Scarce 2017 3575:Bialor 2008 3419:Morgan 1942 3362:Morgan 1942 3059:Baleva 2017 3040:Baleva 2021 3023:Volait 2021 3006:Scarce 2017 2927:Scarce 2017 2317:Scarce 2017 2313:Volait 2021 2298:Baleva 2017 2294:Baleva 2021 2279:Scarce 2017 2275:Baleva 2017 2271:Baleva 2021 2267:Volait 2021 2224:Scarce 2017 2216:Volait 2021 2159:A Greek in 2146: 1903 2080:Sarakatsani 2037:Louis Dupré 1976: 1858 1954: 1880 1720:fustanella 1710:(foustáni) 1698:φουστανέλλα 1513:Baklahorani 1495:, hired as 1367:Lake Prespa 1197:Sarakatsani 1171:Sarakatsani 1111:Vasily Timm 1067:foustanella 926:battle-axes 883:Chersonesus 835:Magdi Wahba 815:skirmishers 786:troops who 589:Edward Lear 581:Edward Lear 557:Philhellene 526:Gjirokastër 464:Louis Dupré 373:Skadar Lake 167:Montenegrin 132:interbellum 128:Royal Guard 42:chart below 31:Louis Dupré 6945:Categories 6764:Panama hat 6518:Vyshyvanka 6476:Azerbaijan 6445:Lederhosen 6310:Fustanella 6099:Áo tứ thân 5985:Buntal hat 5832:Chong Kben 5642:Tangzhuang 4835:. Maluka, 4039:fustanella 4031:fustanella 3753:3 November 3729:3 November 3615:foustanela 3407:Doğer 2004 3383:Vroom 2014 3343:Wahba 1990 3150:Tomes 2011 3132:Blumi 2004 2733:Nasse 1964 2556:fustanella 2400:Evans 2006 2196:References 1789:fustanela 1772:fustanelă 1731:Macedonian 1660:fustanelã 1563:diminutive 1537:fustanella 1471:Divan Yolu 1353:, Babuna, 1175:Aromanians 1109:(1855) by 1089:Greek army 1082:Monemvasia 934:chain mail 823:patrolling 796:Mehmed Ali 686:(1889) by 594:Henry Cook 552:Lord Byron 538:(1813) by 369:Drin River 249:) and the 219:Nympholept 105:Greek army 38:Fustanella 6749:Guayabera 6614:Cachirulo 6609:Barretina 6533:Kokoshnik 6513:Sharovary 6481:Kelaghayi 6337:Macedonia 6300:Aromanian 6214:Palestine 6067:Tabengman 6027:Chut Thai 6000:Patadyong 5963:Tengkolok 5859:Baju bodo 5854:Indonesia 5803:Southeast 5654:Hachimaki 5627:Cheongsam 5551:Tagelmust 5516:Jellabiya 5383:2210-8920 5238:191368679 5197:146732138 5131:2241-1674 4951:0018-098X 4803:1108-8400 4702:cite book 4424:. Zitros. 4215:Bada 1995 4203:Koço 2015 3105:Koço 2015 3074:Mesi 2019 2939:Meço 2011 2858:197957591 2666:Hoti 1989 2654:Mesi 2019 2642:Mesi 2019 2551:chitonium 2421:Λαογραφία 2329:Koço 2004 2201:Citations 2180:Lava-lava 2100:Carl Haag 1787:фустанела 1747:(fustan) 1742:(fustan) 1737:(fustan) 1705:(foústa) 1688:(fustan) 1676:фустанела 1672:Bulgarian 1656:Aromanian 1625:Language 1559:fūstāneum 1535:The word 1467:Mahmud II 1460:Janissary 1391:Macedonia 1363:Ovče Pole 1355:Gevgelija 1241:pantaloon 1161:Aromanian 990:Ali Pasha 969:armatoles 863:Byzantine 827:bodyguard 784:janissary 522:Delvinaki 474:1800, by 425:Mahmud II 413:Janissary 403:. In the 257:Acropolis 252:chitonium 223:Vari Cave 155:Dalmatian 151:Illyrians 68:Albanians 6920:Taʻovala 6900:Lavalava 6857:Sombrero 6837:Huarache 6817:Bolo tie 6737:Chupalla 6722:Chamanto 6629:Mantilla 6584:Oorijzer 6493:Kobeniak 6369:Britain 6330:Himation 6293:Xhubleta 6288:Xhamadan 6199:Keffiyeh 6182:Tefillin 6084:Áo bà ba 6062:Suea pat 6042:Pha nung 6012:Thailand 5938:Malaysia 5926:Suea pat 5921:Xout lao 5869:Blangkon 5827:Cambodia 5794:Sherwani 5764:Pakistan 5706:Manggeon 5637:Mao suit 5511:Head tie 5506:Djellaba 5403:(1990). 5111:(1984). 5008:45238935 4938:Hesperia 4900:36957616 4043:Armatoli 4003:Fox 1977 2838:Hesperia 2568:Fox 1977 2169:See also 2135:Arvanite 2121:, 1894. 2096:Arvanite 1768:Romanian 1708:φουστάνι 1683:(fusta) 1666:fustanã 1640:Albanian 1605:kleftiki 1565:form of 1544:fustagno 1493:Istanbul 1462:troops. 1314:General 1028:Napoleon 1024:Russians 1010:showing 981:Arvanite 956:Albanian 930:corselet 902:frescoes 887:warriors 742:Bulgaria 736:Tepelenë 692:Shkodran 669:yataghan 611:Malësorë 565:armatole 488:and the 356:fustanum 351:maiolica 335:and the 327:(left), 103:nascent 86:and the 27:Souliote 6895:Lap-lap 6873:Oceania 6833:Mexico 6769:Pollera 6759:Lliklla 6672:Iceland 6590:France 6579:Kraplap 6564:Western 6553:Sarafan 6529:Russia 6508:Ochipok 6498:Kozhukh 6488:Ukraine 6471:Armenia 6464:Eastern 6433:Central 6417:Sporran 6392:Ireland 6373:Country 6342:Romania 6325:Chlamys 6305:Croatia 6283:Qeleshe 6219:Pandama 6204:Kurdish 6187:Tzitzit 6167:Sheitel 6137:Boshiya 6127:Assyria 6079:Vietnam 6005:Salakot 5958:Songkok 5953:Songket 5899:Songkok 5894:Songket 5744:Dupatta 5723:Bhutan 5701:Jokduri 5696:Hwagwan 5681:Daenggi 5676:Cheopji 5606:Paranja 5601:Malahai 5572:Central 5556:Wrapper 5501:Dashiki 5249:(ed.). 5099:(PhD). 4264:Sources 4047:Klephts 4035:selachi 4027:fermeli 4023:mendani 2806:Artstor 2613:akritai 2102:, 1861. 2039:, 1820. 1880:of the 1878:General 1820:Gallery 1813:fistan 1805:Turkish 1799:fistan 1794:fistan 1762:fustan 1757:fustan 1716:Italian 1650:fustan 1609:klephts 1593:tsamika 1548:fustian 1541:Italian 1523:In the 1511:In the 1450:In the 1312:British 1296:Italian 1257:Evzones 1249:buskins 1233:garters 1226:selachi 1222:fermeli 1218:mendani 1125:In the 1057:, 1813. 1012:Souliot 965:klephts 938:klephts 914:Akritic 867:Akritai 851:Corinth 811:Arnauts 788:settled 774:, 1857. 732:Dropull 728:sigouni 619:Berisha 615:Kelmend 577:Shkodër 371:in the 347:Ottoman 297:Albania 270:In the 163:Bosnian 138:Origins 130:in the 124:Albania 120:Evzones 61:Balkans 53:garment 46:pleated 6981:Skirts 6930:Tupenu 6905:Kiekie 6890:I-sala 6852:Serape 6847:Rebozo 6829:Huipil 6802:Tignon 6774:Poncho 6744:Chullo 6718:Chile 6714:Aguayo 6677:Sweden 6639:Ciocia 6635:Italy 6600:Spain 6574:Poffer 6455:Tracht 6450:Poland 6440:Dirndl 6402:Aboyne 6352:Kosovo 6347:Serbia 6320:Chiton 6278:Opinga 6273:Çorape 6256:Balkan 6249:Europe 6234:Hejazi 6229:Turban 6194:Jilbāb 6172:Tallit 6162:Kippah 6157:Jewish 6147:Chador 6089:Áo dài 6074:Tudong 6017:Banong 5990:Malong 5904:Tanjak 5889:Kupiah 5884:Kemben 5879:Kebaya 5842:Sompot 5815:Longyi 5769:Pathin 5691:Hanbok 5659:Kimono 5591:Chapan 5536:Litham 5496:Boubou 5491:Balgha 5483:Africa 5415: 5389: 5381: 5371: 5352: 5314: 5259: 5236: 5230:496689 5228: 5195: 5148: 5129: 5084: 5061: 5029: 5006: 4959:147182 4957: 4949: 4917: 4898: 4888: 4867: 4843: 4820: 4801: 4767: 4746: 4725: 4696:. 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