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small shelter. The remaining 1,000 feet (300 m) went very slowly because the thin air made breathing difficult; they had to stop every few steps to catch their breath. At about 1:30 P.M., they reached the summit of Denali, an elevation of 20,310 feet (6,190 m). They spent an hour and a half on the summit, during which Robert Tatum planted the
369:
After reading their instruments and calculating the altitude, they began their descent. In contrast to the 50-day journey up the mountain, the trip back to base camp took only two days. The expedition returned to Tanana on June 20, three months and four days after they left. While they were still at
361:
On June 6, the
Karstens-Stuck party made their final camp at an elevation of 18,000 feet (5,500 m). At the time, it was the highest camp ever established in North America. At 4:00 the next morning, the group left camp for their final attempt at the summit. Around noon, they stopped briefly in a
228:
on his back, usually in 50-pound packs. In winter, the ice leading to the summit was cut into 1500 steps, which travelers climbed in single file. Authorities required each "stampeder" (the persons intending to stay and mine) to bring in two tons of supplies to provide for himself for a year in the
346:
the previous summer. The expedition's progress slowed considerably while they maneuvered under, over, or sometimes through the debris. They camped on the ridge for three days, where temperatures ranged from 50 °F (10 °C) during the day to −21 °F (−29 °C) at night. It took them
395:, serving from 1921 to his resignation in October 1928. The park received no funds for administration until that year. During his tenure, Karstens developed improved infrastructure, such as roads in the park. He organized ranger patrols to reduce
271:. Stuck emphasized the financial value of the trip, saying, "if we succeed in the ascent, the expedition will not be without the likelihood of financial value, and that there will be return to you for the time and labour." Karstens accepted.
274:
While Stuck had been traveling in Alaska for several years for his work and had experience mountain climbing, Karstens had the greater experience, which he applied as guide to the small expedition. Its other members were
333:. While they were camping at the top of the glacier, a tent full of supplies and food was accidentally burned. It took three weeks for Harper and Fredson to go to and return from base camp to replace their supplies.
376:
on June 21. According to Tom Walker's 2013 biography of
Karstens, he and Stuck had a falling out a short time after the climb was completed, and cut off relations, Karstens even calling him an "absolute paresite
325:
After leaving Eureka, the terrain became rougher, and the expedition's pace slowed to about 10 miles (16 km) a day. At an elevation of 2,000 feet (610 m), the party established base camp near the
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valley. The first day, they hiked 30 miles (48 km) up the Tanana with two sleds of supplies pulled by fourteen dogs. The 110-mile (180 km) trip up the river to
347:
three weeks to dig a road three miles long through the blockage of materials in their path. The party the year before had passed this area easily before the earthquake.
366:
he had made earlier from red, white, and blue handkerchiefs. Tatum said, "The scenery was of indescribable beauty...It was like looking out of a window of heaven."
970:
694:
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In 1913, Stuck named the
Karstens Ridge in the guide's honor. It is located in Denali National Park, 4.5 miles (7.2 km) east of the summit of Denali.
759:
295:
by hunting for meat and organizing supplies. (Fredson later became the first Alaska Native to graduate from college and was a lifelong leader of the
336:
The next step was the northeast ridge (later named the
Karstens Ridge in the guide's honor). A previous expedition had called it "step [
342:], but practicable," so Karstens and Stuck were surprised to find huge chunks of rocks and ice in their path. These had been upturned by an
329:
of the mountain, where they encountered temperatures as low as −46 °F (−43 °C). They set off again, up the crevasse-filled, steep
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base camp, Stuck sent out a messenger to announce their success, claiming credit as leader of the expedition, and it was published in
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126:, from 1921 to 1928. He was the guide and climbing leader of the first complete ascent of Denali in 1913, with expedition members
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354:, they saw a flagstaff set up by Thomas Lloyd and three other men; his party had reached it three years earlier. Known as the "
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Highly recommended by
Charles Sheldon, Karstens was appointed as the first superintendent of the newly established
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400:
209:, being paid $ 75 per month. He gained his nickname as the "Seventymile Kid" after working for the post office.
383:] & liar." Karstens' role in the expedition became obscured, and Stuck received most of the publicity.
161:, Illinois on September 2, 1878. His parents were Emma Terveen and John Jacob Karstens, an immigrant from the
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267:, Episcopal Archdeacon of the Yukon, sent Karstens a letter inviting him to join an expedition to climb
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Expedition", Lloyd's party had found their achievement doubted because others had not witnessed it.
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642:
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named the
Karstens Col in his honor. The 10,930-foot (3,330 m) high pass is located between
248:
251:, successfully campaigned with Congress to have the area set aside as a national park. In 1917,
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580:
552:"The Seventymile Kid: The Lost Legacy of Harry Karstens and the First Ascent of Mount McKinley"
526:
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in 1897; he was nineteen. There, he mined on
Seventymile Creek and helped lay out the town of
1036:
475:
The
Seventymile Kid: The Lost Legacy of Harry Karstens and the First Ascent of Mount McKinley
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607:
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of game. He also supervised the construction of cabins for use by the rangers, of which the
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Drawing on his skills developed on the frontier, from 1906 to 1908, Karstens accompanied
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808:"Ascending the Steep Roof of the Continent Just to 'Look Out the Windows of Heaven'"
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is an example. Built in 1931 after
Karstens had left, it has been listed on the
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After that, they climbed the upper glacier. Looking at the North Summit through
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1148:
The Ascent of Denali: The 1913 Expedition that First
Conquered Mt. McKinley
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Harry Karstens in 1927 as superintendent of Mount McKinley National Park.
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and Esias George, supported the party by managing its dog teams, and in
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122:(September 2, 1878 – November 28, 1955) was the first superintendent of
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243:, a hunter, conservationist, and naturalist, on hunting trips into the
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took eight days; there, they replenished supplies and celebrated
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193:. He also carried freight and mail with Charles McGonagall via
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He also worked as a packer, hauling miners' supplies over the
173:. Harry was the fifth born of seven children in his family.
949:
1127:. Pictorial Histories Publishing Company. pp. 42–45.
181:
Like many young men, Karstens went North for adventure to
379:
338:
695:"Hudson Stuck 1912 correspondence with Harry Karstens"
644:
A History of the Denali-Mount McKinley, Region, Alaska
816:. Knoxville, Tennessee: Denali 2013. Archived from
232:Karstens ran dog teams on the frontier, as well as
989:
255:was established as Mount McKinley National Park.
247:region. Sheldon, the chairman of the influential
1177:
879:
877:
875:
659:
437:
647:. Santa Fe, New Mexico: National Park Service
920:"The Sourdough Expedition to Mount McKinley"
872:
468:
466:
1093:
1091:
971:"An incredible sextet in Fairbanks, Alaska"
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216:Miners and packers climb 1500 ice steps at
997:"Henry P. Karstens Collection Description"
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837:
835:
801:
799:
797:
795:
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730:Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America
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22:
1070:Feature Detail Report for: Karstens Ridge
946:"New Elevation for Nation's Highest Peak"
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549:
543:
463:
1125:Kantishna: Miners, Mushers, Mountaineers
1106:United States Government Printing Office
1088:
883:
757:
751:
634:
609:Historic Houses of the Pacific Northwest
599:
509:
310:on March 17, 1913, and proceeded up the
283:, both 21 at the time. In addition, two
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832:
805:
790:
451:from the original on September 21, 2013
447:. The Karstens Library. July 29, 2008.
1178:
1122:
1027:"National Register Information System"
973:. American Alpine Club. Archived from
963:
943:
723:
472:
1141:
640:
605:
569:
515:
1097:
1032:National Register of Historic Places
1019:
771:. Denali 2013: 34–35. Archived from
550:Wetherbee, Karina (April 19, 2013).
405:National Register of Historic Places
287:youths from Stuck's mission school,
258:
1216:People from the Territory of Alaska
13:
1115:
944:Newell, Mark (September 2, 2015).
522:Mount McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs
14:
1232:
1157:
918:O'Flynn, Barry (September 2007).
849:"Dr. Stuck scales Mount M'Kinley"
806:Moutoux, John T. (May 22, 1932).
758:Campbell, Diana (February 2013).
142:and Esaias George were two young
1221:People of the Klondike Gold Rush
1101:Dictionary of Alaska Place Names
1062: This article incorporates
1057:
236:when the rivers were navigable.
1075:United States Geological Survey
1051:
937:
911:
401:Riley Creek Ranger Cabin No. 20
306:The expedition party left from
1123:Walker, Tom (2007). "Alaska".
641:Brown, William Edward (1991).
1:
1211:People from Fairbanks, Alaska
431:
386:
152:
1172:at Dartmouth College Library
1170:The Papers of Henry Karstens
473:Walker, Tom (Jan 25, 2013).
197:among the frontier towns of
7:
890:Alaska: Saga of a Bold Land
813:The Knoxville News-Sentinel
157:Harry Karstens was born in
10:
1237:
1196:American mountain climbers
1001:UAA/APU Consortium Library
924:Irish Mountaineering Club
410:
303:Indian Reserve in 1941).
176:
149:who supported the party.
104:
99:
91:
73:
48:
38:
33:
21:
1098:Orth, Donald J. (1967).
760:"A Granddaughter's Tale"
675:. National Park Service
445:"Karstens, Henry Peter"
427:and the Karstens Ridge.
249:Boone and Crockett Club
1064:public domain material
735:The Mountaineers Books
667:"Denali National Park"
606:Reece, Daphne (1983).
581:National Postal Museum
527:The Mountaineers Books
221:
1037:National Park Service
1007:on September 21, 2013
820:on September 25, 2013
778:on September 25, 2013
705:on September 20, 2013
215:
165:. His father owned a
1151:. Project Gutenberg.
737:. pp. 118–119.
699:American Alpine Club
501:: CS1 maint: year (
393:Denali National Park
253:Denali National Park
185:, Canada during the
124:Denali National Park
120:Henry Peter Karstens
34:Personal information
1206:People from Chicago
885:Borneman, Walter R.
587:on January 20, 2013
263:On March 27, 1912,
18:
857:The New York Times
672:The National Parks
479:Mountaineers Books
373:The New York Times
222:
187:Klondike Gold Rush
16:
1134:978-1-57510-124-8
1104:. Vol. 567.
948:(Press release).
904:978-0-06-186527-5
627:978-0-87701-272-6
536:978-1-59485-522-1
488:978-1-59485-729-4
421:Bradford Washburn
419:In 1946, climber
299:, founding their
259:Denali expedition
163:Duchy of Holstein
117:
116:
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85:Fairbanks, Alaska
77:November 28, 1955
59:September 2, 1878
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1166:, Peakbagger.com
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860:. June 21, 1913
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331:Muldrow Glacier
297:Gwich'in people
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241:Charles Sheldon
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105:Notable ascents
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39:Main discipline
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1078:. Retrieved
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1009:. Retrieved
1005:the original
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979:. Retrieved
975:the original
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953:. Retrieved
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862:. Retrieved
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822:. Retrieved
818:the original
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780:. Retrieved
773:the original
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725:Beckey, Fred
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707:. Retrieved
703:the original
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589:. Retrieved
585:the original
577:"The Trails"
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559:. Retrieved
556:Summit Daily
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312:Tanana River
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281:Robert Tatum
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265:Hudson Stuck
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245:Toklat River
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140:John Fredson
136:Robert Tatum
128:Hudson Stuck
119:
118:
79:(1955-11-28)
1191:1955 deaths
1186:1878 births
425:Mount Koven
183:Dawson City
92:Nationality
1180:Categories
955:August 23,
616:. p.
432:References
387:Later life
377: [
344:earthquake
234:riverboats
167:feed store
153:Early life
55:1878-09-02
497:cite book
356:Sourdough
327:tree line
293:base camp
207:Kantishna
199:Fairbanks
195:dog teams
1145:(1918).
887:(2003).
727:(1993).
519:(1981).
449:Archived
397:poaching
285:Gwich'in
144:Gwich'in
95:American
67:Illinois
301:Venetie
229:camps.
159:Chicago
63:Chicago
1201:Denali
1131:
901:
768:Alaska
741:
624:
533:
485:
411:Legacy
320:Easter
316:Eureka
308:Nenana
269:Denali
203:Valdez
177:Career
171:livery
109:Denali
100:Career
1066:from
852:(PDF)
776:(PDF)
763:(PDF)
1129:ISBN
1082:2013
1045:2013
1013:2013
983:2013
957:2017
950:USGS
931:2013
899:ISBN
866:2013
826:2013
784:2013
739:ISBN
711:2013
681:2013
653:2013
622:ISBN
593:2013
563:2013
531:ISBN
503:link
483:ISBN
457:2013
279:and
205:and
169:and
134:and
74:Died
49:Born
407:.
380:sic
339:sic
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Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
