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in the construction of the lapel, as the
Victorians used elaborate three-part patterns to cut a fold of cloth from the lining into the front of the lapel, a universal consideration of frock coats and dress coats of the period, but abandoned in favor of the current single-piece lapels at the same time
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The width of the lapel is a widely varying aspect of suits, and has changed widely over the years. Some designers maintain however that most stylish lapel width does not change, and that the lapel "should extend to just a fraction less than the halfway mark between the collar and shoulder line".
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The most common style of lapel, the notched lapel, originated in older types of jackets that buttoned to the neck, by unbuttoning and turning back the upper part of the closure at an angle indoors or in hot weather, and then removing the upper buttons. The upper points are derived from the end
227:, and also commonly with a tuxedo (both single and double breasted). In the late 1920s and 1930s, the single breasted peaked lapel jacket was considered a very stylish design. The feature was carried into day clothing by the increasing popularity of the peaked
266:, it is now most common on the dinner jacket or tuxedo. This similarly began as informal eveningwear, and was then made in both more and less formal versions, depending on the situation in which it was to be used. It is also commonly used on
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have ridiculed the evolution of jacket lapels into "vastly unnecessary flaps" and "decorative rudiments", while others have celebrated the transformation of lapels into "fetishes" as part and parcel of fashion as expression.
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was succeeded by long lapels folded down to below the waist (fashionably tightly nipped in). Invariably, there were long rows of buttons down the front, most of which did not fasten; in fact even into the late
412:. Sometimes when caught outside in bad weather in a lapelled jacket and nothing over it, its wearer may unfold the lapels and hold them that way to temporarily reproduce the ancestral to-the-neck closure.
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Once double breasted frock coats were established, lapels were sharply creased and their form was more static, varying only in details such as height, since they were buttoned nearly to the neck by the
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The lapel on business and sports wear is typically made of the same fabric as the rest of the jacket. On more formal wear it may be made of a contrasting fabric, with satin a popular historic choice.
428:, all frock coats had a long row of button holes on the lapel, long since obsolete. As buttoning styles changed, the loosely folded front of the coat correspondingly shifted shape, and the
440:, then lengthened to the classic three-button shape, the two-button jacket being a further American innovation. The other significant change over that period was the use of the
322:, a decorative flower. A loop is often fixed to the back of the lapel to hold the flower properly. For symmetry, double breasted suits often have a buttonhole on each lapel. A
87:
jackets. Usually it is formed by folding over the front edge of the jacket or coat and sewing it to the collar, an extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck.
432:
then formed by the meeting of the fold and the collar continues now in the traditional shape of notched and peaked lapels, both of which originate from that period.
419:, various styles of closure saw popularity, from fastenings at the top, the middle, or even hanging open. The turn-down collar popular on earlier garments like the
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231:. The ability to cut peak lapels properly on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.
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corners of the collar. This can be duplicated by similarly turning back the closure in a modern button-to-the-neck garment such as an
183:. The notched lapel double-breasted jacket is a rare setting. The size of the notch can vary, and a small notch is sometimes called
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as the switch to morning coats and lounge suits. Modern lapels are largely identical in form to their 1930s counterparts.
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There are three basic forms of lapel: notched, peaked, and shawl. The notched lapel, the most common, is usually seen on
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Though less common among men's suits in the west, other jacket styles feature no lapels. Jackets with
167:(British English) is sewn to the collar at an angle, creating a step effect. This is the standard on
2151:
481:, also called Prussian collars and ghillie collars, were once common on military uniforms and on the
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jackets, but also frequently appears on single breasted ones. The shawl lapel is usually carried by
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Two flaps of material turned back on the chest, especially a continuation of a coat collar
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in a
Captain's tailcoat (1781), exhibiting a long, loosely-folded lapel with many buttons
680:"Style Q&A: Dressing Up Casual, Wide Vs Skinny Lapels, and Tailored Recommendations"
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666:"Style Heroes: Arnold Wong, Senior Brand Manager and Buyer at Attire House"
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652:"Oliver Brown is the place to go for maximalist tailoring (and top hats)"
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187:. This was the first type of lapel to appear and is the most common one.
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364: in this section. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.
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465:, also called stand collars, band collars, or choker collars, include
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Vestirse Por Los Pies: Los
Secretos de Estilo del Auténtico Caballero
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below the collar. It is most commonly found on formal clothing and
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sports a form of notch-less lapel that features an angular turn.
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503:"Casual Dress for Young Men: What to Wear & How to Wear It"
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On single-breasted jackets the left lapel typically carries a
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151:(right). The former is the most commonly seen notched lapel.
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As tailcoats evolved rapidly among the wealthy during the
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Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of
Permanent Fashion
805:
Clothes and the Man: The
Principles of Fine Men's Dress
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215:(British English), is the most formal, featuring on
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878:. The Caxton Publishing Company Ltd, London, 1951
778:The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style
469:and various military dress uniforms, such as the
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577:"Double Breasted Notch Lapel "Wall Street" Suit"
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259:is a continuous curve. Originally seen on the
75:) is a folded flap of cloth on the front of a
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310:, Cooper–Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum
380:Learn how and when to remove this message
876:The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier
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549:García-Bragado, David (17 March 2014).
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143:Comparison of two notched lapel cuts:
30:A pinstriped suit with a notched lapel
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654:. The Jackal Magazine. 26 April 2019.
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362:adding citations to reliable sources
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219:jackets, all formal coats such as a
13:
94:, and on more casual jackets like
14:
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555:. Hércules Edición. p. 181.
448:Some historians of dress such as
171:suits, and is used on nearly all
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776:Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006).
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623:"Single breasted, peaked lapel"
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349:needs additional citations for
668:. LIFESTLYE ASIA. 20 May 2019.
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1734:Clothing materials and parts
748:Machete, A.J. (2010-10-28).
709:Boehlke, Will (2007-01-07).
621:Mahon, Thomas (2005-03-29).
539:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 172
106:, and nearly always used on
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593:Antongiavanni (2006). p. 48
501:Antonio (31 October 2012).
102:. The peaked lapel is more
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754:The Complete Suit Guide
711:"What's in your lapel?"
1597:Frister & Rossmann
1289:Hook-and-loop fastener
738:Rodofsky(1947). p. 122
602:Flusser (2002). p. 234
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611:Flusser (2002). p. 84
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515:Flusser (2002). p. 83
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1677:at Wikimedia Commons
358:improve this article
207:(American English),
159:(American English),
1688:Clothing portal
952:Fabric tube turning
864:Are Clothes Modern?
715:A Suitable Wardrobe
1925:Artificial leather
1740:Garment structures
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303:Lapel watch, USA,
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19:For the town, see
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1767:Detachable collar
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1693:Glossary of terms
1673:Media related to
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1642:Tape edge machine
1061:Embroidery stitch
874:Whife, A.A (ed):
860:Rudofsky, Bernard
791:978-0-06-089186-2
562:978-8-4927-1579-4
457:Lapelless jackets
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1507:Manufacturers
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1213:Passementerie
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947:Embellishment
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868:Paul Theobald
865:
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853:
851:0-06-019144-9
847:
843:
842:HarperCollins
839:
835:
834:Flusser, Alan
831:
821:
819:0-394-54623-7
815:
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807:
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800:Flusser, Alan
797:
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782:HarperCollins
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721:on 2008-10-14
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633:on 2005-04-03
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583:. 2008-08-04.
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468:
467:Nehru jackets
464:
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426:Victorian era
422:
418:
413:
411:
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352:
347:This section
345:
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325:
321:
317:
301:
292:
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275:
273:
269:
265:
262:
258:
254:
250:
243:A shawl lapel
241:
232:
230:
229:dinner jacket
226:
222:
218:
214:
213:pointed lapel
210:
206:
197:
188:
186:
182:
178:
174:
170:
166:
162:
158:
157:notched lapel
150:
146:
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133:
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109:
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101:
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88:
86:
82:
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64:
37:
28:
22:
2071:Hook-and-eye
2034:Back closure
1964:Animal hides
1839:Shoulder pad
1793:
1762:Collar stays
1426:Tape measure
1421:Tailor's ham
1406:Sewing gauge
1284:Hook-and-eye
1056:Cross-stitch
1046:Chain stitch
1041:Catch stitch
1031:Blind stitch
875:
863:
837:
823:. Retrieved
804:
777:
770:Bibliography
757:. Retrieved
753:
743:
734:
723:. Retrieved
719:the original
714:
704:
692:
683:
674:
660:
646:
635:. Retrieved
631:the original
626:
616:
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551:
544:
511:
496:
471:British Army
460:
447:
434:
429:
414:
402:
376:
367:
356:Please help
351:verification
348:
313:
290:
281:
268:mess jackets
256:
253:shawl collar
252:
248:
246:
225:morning coat
212:
208:
205:peaked lapel
204:
202:
184:
164:
160:
156:
154:
116:mess jackets
89:
35:
33:
1483:Haberdasher
1401:Seam ripper
1233:Self-fabric
1208:Interfacing
1188:Collar stay
1144:Felled seam
1086:Pick stitch
1051:Coverstitch
627:English Cut
397:Lord Nelson
320:boutonnière
308: 1889
272:Teba jacket
257:roll collar
249:shawl lapel
165:step collar
147:(left) and
100:sport coats
2141:Categories
2054:Buttonhole
1582:Elias Howe
1543:Simplicity
1478:Dressmaker
1386:Pincushion
1366:Needlecase
1361:Dress form
1320:Grain/bias
1274:Buttonhole
1243:Twill tape
1154:Style line
1081:Pad stitch
1071:Lockstitch
1036:Buttonhole
1016:Backstitch
920:Techniques
825:2008-09-20
759:2011-10-27
725:2008-09-24
637:2008-09-20
438:Edwardians
410:boilersuit
316:buttonhole
295:Buttonhole
209:peak lapel
161:step lapel
2121:Waistline
2039:Belt hook
2026:Fasteners
1940:Polyester
1918:Synthetic
1859:Waistband
1533:Clothkits
1523:Butterick
1493:Silkwoman
1458:Suppliers
1313:Materials
1183:Bias tape
1116:Topstitch
1091:Rantering
1066:Hemstitch
370:June 2012
324:lapel pin
261:Victorian
185:fishmouth
175:jackets,
2116:Bustline
2111:Neckline
2016:Stingray
1991:Kangaroo
1874:Textiles
1622:New Home
1553:Machines
1538:McCall's
1515:Patterns
1396:Scissors
1257:Closures
1238:Soutache
1228:Rickrack
1139:Neckline
1106:Stoating
1076:Overlock
1021:Bar tack
1002:Stitches
992:Shirring
862:(1947).
836:(2002).
802:(1985).
581:Ask Andy
483:Mao suit
406:overcoat
221:tailcoat
2147:Jackets
2126:Hemline
1996:Ostrich
1968:leather
1950:Spandex
1930:Elastic
1882:Natural
1814:Placket
1747:Armscye
1577:Brother
1572:Bernina
1431:Thimble
1325:Selvage
1248:Wrights
1198:Galloon
1193:Elastic
1167:Notions
1101:Sashiko
1096:Running
1026:Blanket
937:Darning
927:Basting
810:Villard
177:blazers
149:Spanish
145:English
127:Notched
112:tuxedos
96:blazers
2093:Zipper
2081:Velcro
2049:Button
2044:Buckle
1889:Cotton
1849:Sleeve
1834:Ruffle
1829:Revers
1824:Pocket
1809:Lining
1784:Facing
1752:Collar
1675:Sewing
1637:Singer
1632:Sewmor
1617:Merrow
1602:Janome
1592:Feiyue
1498:Tailor
1488:Mercer
1473:Draper
1454:Trades
1356:Bobbin
1335:Thread
1304:Zipper
1269:Button
1264:Buckle
1223:Ruffle
1218:Piping
1121:Zigzag
977:Gusset
962:Gather
913:Sewing
848:
816:
788:
559:
442:revers
330:Origin
287:Fabric
191:Peaked
179:, and
104:formal
77:jacket
2103:Seams
2064:Shank
2011:Snake
2006:Sheep
1945:Rayon
1935:Nylon
1899:Linen
1854:Train
1844:Strap
1819:Pleat
1794:Lapel
1652:White
1627:Pfaff
1607:Jones
1528:Burda
1349:Tools
1294:Shank
1131:Seams
987:Pleat
967:Godet
698:ch. 2
489:Notes
421:frock
408:or a
278:Width
255:, or
235:Shawl
211:, or
122:Types
36:lapel
2088:Snap
2059:Frog
2001:Seal
1986:Goat
1981:Deer
1976:Calf
1909:Wool
1904:Silk
1864:Yoke
1799:Gore
1779:Dart
1774:Cuff
1612:Juki
1587:Elna
1558:list
1340:Yarn
1299:Snap
1279:Frog
1172:Trim
1111:Tack
1007:list
942:Ease
846:ISBN
814:ISBN
786:ISBN
557:ISBN
473:and
270:. A
247:The
203:The
173:suit
155:The
114:and
98:and
85:suit
81:coat
1894:Fur
1804:Hem
1789:Fly
1381:Pin
932:Cut
360:by
223:or
163:or
79:or
71:PEL
69:lə-
2143::
1966:/
866:.
844:.
840:.
812:.
808:.
784:.
780:.
752:.
713:.
682:.
625:.
579:.
532:^
520:^
485:.
477:.
305:c.
251:,
118:.
34:A
1727:e
1720:t
1713:v
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1556:(
1009:)
1005:(
905:e
898:t
891:v
870:.
854:.
828:.
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686:.
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505:.
430:V
383:)
377:(
372:)
368:(
354:.
63:/
60:l
57:ɛ
54:p
51:ˈ
48:ə
45:l
42:/
38:(
23:.
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