450:, Poiret left his fashion house to serve the military. When he returned in 1919, the business was on the brink of bankruptcy. New designers like Chanel were producing simple, sleek clothes that relied on excellent workmanship. In comparison, Poiret's elaborate designs seemed dowdy and poorly manufactured. (Though Poiret's designs were groundbreaking, his construction was not – he aimed only for his dresses to "read beautifully from afar.") In 1922, he was invited to New York to design costumes and dresses for Broadway stars. He took his top designer (France Martano) and an entourage with him, enjoying the elegant life at sea (see photos). New York City, however, was not home and he soon returned to Paris leaving his top designer there in his stead. Back in Paris, Poiret was increasingly unpopular, in debt, and lacking support from his business partners. He soon left the fashion empire he had established. In 1929, the house was closed, with its leftover stock sold by the kilogram as rags. When Poiret died in 1944, his genius had been forgotten. His road to poverty led him to odd jobs, including work as a street painter, selling drawings to customers of Paris cafes. At one time, the 'Chambre syndicale de la Haute Couture' discussed providing a monthly allowance to aid Poiret, an idea rejected by Worth, at that time president of the group. Only his friend and one of his right hand-designers from his pre-WWI era, France Martano (married name: Benureau), helped him in his era of poverty, when most of Parisian society had forgotten him. At the end of his life, he dined regularly in her family's Paris apartment and she ensured he was not wanting for food. (He'd previously erased her from his memoirs as, after designating her as his long-term replacement to design for Broadway in 1922, he was infuriated that she became an independent couturier upon her return to Paris.) His friend
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perfumes as early as 1907. In 1911 Poiret unveiled "Parfums de Rosine" with a flamboyant soiree held at his palatial home, attended by the cream of
Parisian society and the artistic world. Poiret fancifully christened the event "la mille et deuxième nuit" (The Thousand and Second Night), inspired by the fantasy of a sultan's harem. His gardens were illuminated by lanterns, set with tents, and live, tropical birds. Madame Poiret herself luxuriated in a golden cage. Poiret was the reigning sultan, gifting each guest with a bottle of his new fragrance creation, appropriately named to befit the occasion, "Nuit Persane." His marketing strategy, played out as entertainment, became the talk of Paris. A second scent debuted in 1912 – "Le Minaret," again emphasizing the harem theme.
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262:, where he was responsible for designing simple, practical dresses, called "fried potatoes" by Gaston Worth because they were considered side dishes to Worth's main course of "truffles". The "brazen modernity of his designs," however, proved too much for Worth's conservative clientele. When Poiret presented the Russian
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Poiret's house expanded to encompass interior decoration and fragrance. In 1911, he introduced "Parfums de Rosine," named after his daughter, becoming the first French couturier to launch a signature fragrance, although again the London designer Lucile had preceded him with a range of in-house
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Poiret established his own house in 1903. In his first years as an independent couturier, he broke with established conventions of dressmaking and subverted other ones. In 1903, he dismissed the petticoat, and later, in 1906, he did the same with the corset. Poiret made his name with his
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with a
Confucius coat with an innovative kimono-like cut, for instance, she exclaimed, "What a horror! When there are low fellows who run after our sledges and annoy us, we have their heads cut off, and we put them in sacks just like that." This reaction prompted Poiret to fund his own
697:. In 1913, Poiret told Vogue, "My wife is the inspiration for all my creations; she is the expression of all my ideals." The two later were divorced, in 1928 after twenty-three years of marriage, in a proceeding that was far from amicable due to Poiret's many affairs.
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and decorated with rectangular motifs. The structural simplicity of his clothing represented a "pivotal moment in the emergence of modernism" generally, and "effectively established the paradigm of modern fashion, irrevocably changing the direction of costume history.
532:, and once boasted "yes, I freed the bust, but I shackled the legs." Poiret was not the only one responsible for the change in women's supportive garments, however, and the diminished role of corsetry was a result of various factors. Poiret is often described as an
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Poiret designed flamboyant window displays and threw sensational parties to draw attention to his work. His instinct for marketing and branding was unmatched by any other
Parisian designer, although the pioneering fashion shows of the British-based
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Poiret's fashion designs feature prominently in the collections of fashion museums worldwide, and have been displayed in many exhibitions over the years. One such exhibition was "Paul Poiret and Nicole Groult, The
Masters of Art Deco Fashion"
536:, and his creations often drew inspiration from various Eastern styles which were at odds with other fashionable Edwardian modes. In 1911, he held an extravagant fancy-dress ball, 'The 1002nd Night', inspired by the tales of the
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Also in 1911, Poiret launched the Les École
Martine, a home decor division of his design house, named for his second daughter. The establishment provided artistically inclined, working-class girls with trade skills and income.
637:) in his showroom before it was auctioned. Denise Poiret's personal sartorial collection broke sales records: in particular, an auto coat that Paul Poiret had designed for her in 1914 went under the hammer for 110,000 Euros.
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to promote fashion as a fine art in his work. Steichen responded by snapping photos of gowns designed by Poiret, hauntingly backlit and shot at inventive angles. These were published in the April 1911 issue of the magazine
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to exhibit contemporary art. The building was beside Poiret's 18th century mansion at 26 Avenue d'Antin. Poiret reserved the right to hold two exhibitions each year. One of these was
205:(20 April 1879 – 30 April 1944, Paris, France) was a French fashion designer, a master couturier during the first two decades of the 20th century. He was the founder of his namesake
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In 1905, Poiret married Denise Boulet, a provincial girl; they would later have five children together. Denise, a slender and youthful woman, was Poiret's muse and the prototype of
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Jean Kerléo. “Henri Alméras.” Osmothèque. Institut supérieur international du parfum, de la cosmétique et de l'aromatique alimentaire, Versailles. 4 Feb. 2012. Lecture
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as its artistic director. However after only two seasons
Shinsegae announced the departure of Yiqing Yin and pivoted the brand into primarily cosmetics and skincare.
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in New York purchased many pieces at this auction sale, which was the core of the first
American retrospective on the dressmaker from May to August 2007, entitled
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shoot," in which garments were imaged as much for their artistic quality as their formal appearance. A year later, Vogel began his renowned fashion journal
229:, a prominent dressmaker, who purchased a dozen from him. Poiret continued to sell his drawings to major Parisian couture houses, until he was hired by
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In 2018 Shinsegae officially confirmed the relaunch of Poiret from Paris with
Belgian businesswoman Anne Chapelle at its helm, and Paris-based Chinese
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Mulvagh, p. 19, suggests that the jupe-culotte was introduced by Poiret, Bourniche and
Margaine-Lacroix, while books on Poiret credit it to him alone.
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1376:"Catalogue de la vente La Création en Liberté : Univers de Denise et Paul Poiret (1905 -1928) à Piasa – Fin de la vente le 11 Mai 2005"
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presented wide-legged trousers for women in 1910, some months before Poiret, who took credit for being the first to introduce the style.
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866:"The Claudette Colbert Starfish: A Ruby and Amethyst Starfish Brooch Designed by Juliette Moutard for René Boivin, Paris, 1937"
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In 1911 Poiret leased part of the property at 109 Rue du
Faubourg Saint Honoré to his friend Henri Barbazanges, who opened the
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Paul Poiret and his wife at 'The 1002nd Night' fancy-dress ball, in which guests were expected to dress in Orientalist fashion
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in the early 2010s The right to use the brand name was then sold to the South-Korean fashion and luxury conglomerate
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Additionally, Poiret's perfumes, the Parfums de Rosine, are preserved in several cultural institutions, including the
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from The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library at the Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
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Art et décoration : revue mensuelle d'art moderne, Paris, CMI Publishing (Levallois-Perret), January - June 1911
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was employed as a perfumer by Paul Poiret as of 1923, though certain sources suggest he had worked there since 1914.
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controversial kimono coat and similar, loose-fitting designs created specifically for an uncorseted, slim figure.
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in 1898. His first design, a red cloth cape, sold 400 copies. He became famous after designing a black mantle of
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1269:. Koda, Harold., Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York, N.Y.). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 20.
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and use of patterns. Poiret was influenced by both antique and regional dress, and favoured clothing cut along
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In 1911, Poiret launched the Les Parfums de Rosine, a home perfume division, named for his first daughter.
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prevented his name from encountering complete oblivion, and it was Schiaparelli who paid for his burial.
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René Chavance. “Alméras ou le parfumeur.” Industrie de la parfumerie. 4.8 Aug. 1949: 299-301. Print.
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Poiret is associated with the decline of corsetry in women's fashion and the invention of the
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941:. p. Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–
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Commercially inactive since 1933, the Poiret global trademark rights were acquired by the
288:(Lady Duff Gordon) had already attracted tremendous publicity. In 1909, he was so famous,
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Paul Poiret, King of Fashion exhibition – The Metropolitan Museum of Art – New York City
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Foreman, Joelle Diderich, Katya; Diderich, Joelle; Foreman, Katya (11 December 2018).
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1466:"Your Search Results | Search the Collections | Victoria and Albert Museum"
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Poiret was born on 20 April 1879 to a cloth merchant in the poor neighborhood of
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bearing a whip and encouraged guests to dress in Orientalist styles, including
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The Metropolitan Museum of Art – Special Exhibitions: Poiret: King of Fashion
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showcased the pioneering perfume branch of Poiret in an exhibition entitled
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1301:. Victoria: Council of the National Gallery of Victoria. 1994. p. 35.
977:"Research Guides: Paul Poiret: Topics in Chronicling America: Introduction"
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in Russia to celebrate the hundredth anniversary of Paul Poiret's visit to
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1590:"'Sleeping Beauty' Syndrome: Recently Revived Poiret Splits With Designer"
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exhibited Denise Poiret's wardrobe in a show called "Free Creativity" (
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1536:"Fashionistas and Investors Start Salivating: Paul Poiret Is For Sale"
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and "lampshade" tunics similar to the one worn by his wife.
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Poiret's major contribution to fashion was his technique of
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Alexander, Jesse, "Edward Steichen: Lives in Photography,"
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Eastern style fancy-dress costume with harem pants (1911)
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Coat in black wool with fur and leather applique (1919)
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Paul Poiret et Nicole Groult, Maîtres de mode Art Déco
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In 2013, the Musée International de la Parfumerie in
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The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum
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magazine, no.151, December/January 2008, pp.66 – 67
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1242:. Great Britain: Shire Publications. p. 55.
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1563:"Anne Chapelle's Next Move: Rebooting Poiret"
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1613:: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (
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1425:Tchekourda, Jekaterina (11 October 2011).
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1343:"Liberty belle: Poiret's modernist vision"
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893:. Univ of New Hampshire Pr. p. 147.
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1510:"Paul Poiret Poised for Brand Revival"
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292:, wife of British Prime Minister
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1508:Socha, Miles (27 October 2014).
1316:"Poiret, sœurs et sans reproche"
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1001:Milford-Cottam, Daniel (2014).
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258:In 1901, Poiret moved to the
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840:. "Fashioning the Century."
646:Paul Poiret: King of Fashion
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198:Model in a Poiret suit, 1914
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1841:French Orientalist painters
1031:Lucile – Her Life by Design
1027:The Secret of Chanel No. 5,
1005:. Shire Books. p. 55.
887:Joslin, Katherine. (2011).
752:List of Orientalist artists
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585:Summer dress (early 1910s).
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221:, Paris. His older sister,
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935:"Paul Poiret (1879–1944)"
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844:(May 2007): 236–250. A
781:Encyclopædia Britannica
382:L'Art Moderne en France
304:Jeanne Margaine-Lacroix
117:Les Ateliers de Martine
635:La Création en Liberté
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408:Manuel Ortiz de Zárate
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1129:"Gallery Barbazanges"
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960:Poiret, Paul (1931).
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328:La Gazette du Bon Ton
213:Early life and career
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962:My First Fifty Years
508:Aesthetic and legacy
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264:Princess Bariatinsky
378:Galerie Barbazanges
350:, and the House of
324:fashion photography
253:marketing practices
1744:Jean Paul Gaultier
1734:Giambattista Valli
1704:Alexandre Vauthier
1540:On the Runway Blog
1347:The New York Times
1159:A Day with Picasso
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1033:(2012), pp. 46–47.
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1432:28 November
1410:15 November
1385:15 November
1360:28 November
1326:28 November
1322:(in French)
964:. Gollancz.
868:. Siegelson
776:Paul Poiret
757:Orientalism
695:la garçonne
546:harem pants
534:Orientalist
487:Arlequinade
448:World War I
203:Paul Poiret
180:harem pants
42: 1913
25:Paul Poiret
1795:Categories
1488:Culturebox
1452:Osmotheque
1201:23 January
1185:Erik Satie
1139:22 January
1135:(in Dutch)
872:2 November
763:References
725:Yiqing Yin
722:couturiere
672:Versailles
668:Osmothèque
476:Le Minaret
424:Erik Satie
219:Les Halles
168:Paul Iribe
84:Occupation
55:1879-04-20
1355:0362-4331
909:741023820
518:tailoring
458:Perfumery
446:Early in
416:Max Jacob
147:Signature
88:Couturier
1739:Givenchy
1609:cite web
1401:"Poiret"
1285:33357725
1072:, p. 352
850:Archived
731:See also
709:company
358:and the
1692:Members
1599:4 March
1573:4 March
1545:4 March
1519:4 March
1095:HotShoe
986:12 July
945:12 July
778:at the
711:Luvanis
653:Kremlin
514:draping
348:Redfern
239:taffeta
209:house.
178:Poiret
133:Website
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478:(1912)
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466:(1911)
286:Lucile
269:maison
243:RĂ©jane
223:Jeanne
170:, 1908
138:poiret
125:Spouse
105:Labels
1780:See:
842:Vogue
622:) at
352:Worth
235:tulle
1724:Dior
1615:link
1601:2024
1575:2024
1547:2024
1521:2024
1495:2017
1434:2017
1412:2017
1387:2017
1362:2017
1351:ISSN
1328:2017
1281:OCLC
1271:ISBN
1244:ISBN
1203:2016
1190:ISBN
1164:ISBN
1141:2016
1066:ISBN
1007:ISBN
988:2020
947:2020
905:OCLC
895:ISBN
874:2020
659:and
640:The
434:and
418:and
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248:Zaza
140:.com
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