Knowledge

Theory of tides

Source 📝

4322:
the ocean is driven by submarine influences or spirits out of several chasms which the earth afford both underneath and around it, to advance outwards, and to recede again, whenever the influence or spirit, like the breath of our bodies, gives way and recedes. And this theory is confirmed by the course run by diseases in Gadeira, for at the time of high water the souls of the dying do not quit the bodies, and this would hardly happen, he says, unless the influence or spirit I have spoken of was also advancing towards the land. They also tell you of certain phenomena of the ocean in connection with the phases of the moon, according as it is born and reaches fullness and wanes. These phenomena I verified, for the ocean exactly keeps pace with the size of the moon, decreasing and increasing with her. -
1048: 4265:" is influenced by the sun, and its Doodson numbers are 273.555, meaning that its frequency is composed of twice the first Doodson argument, +2 times the second, -2 times the third, and zero times each of the other three. This aggregates to the angular equivalent of mean solar time +12 hours. These two strongest component frequencies have simple arguments for which the Doodson system might appear needlessly complex, but each of the hundreds of other component frequencies can be briefly specified in a similar way, showing in the aggregate the usefulness of the encoding. 3681:
choice of his six "Doodson arguments" has been widely used in tidal work. In terms of these Doodson arguments, each tidal frequency can then be specified as a sum made up of a small integer multiple of each of the six arguments. The resulting six small integer multipliers effectively encode the frequency of the tidal argument concerned, and these are the Doodson numbers: in practice all except the first are usually biased upwards by +5 to avoid negative numbers in the notation. (In the case that the biased multiple exceeds 9, the system adopts X for 10, and E for 11.)
25: 411:, believing that the oceans moved like water in a large basin: as the basin moves, so does the water. Therefore, as the Earth revolves, the force of the Earth's rotation causes the oceans to "alternately accelerate and retardate". His view on the oscillation and "alternately accelerated and retardated" motion of the Earth's rotation is a "dynamic process" that deviated from the previous dogma, which proposed "a process of expansion and contraction of seawater." However, Galileo's theory was erroneous. In subsequent centuries, 626: 6008: 1109: 6896: 6917: 1043:{\displaystyle {\begin{aligned}{\frac {\partial \zeta }{\partial t}}&+{\frac {1}{a\cos(\varphi )}}\left=0,\\{\frac {\partial u}{\partial t}}&-v\,2\Omega \sin(\varphi )+{\frac {1}{a\cos(\varphi )}}{\frac {\partial }{\partial \lambda }}\left(g\zeta +U\right)=0,\quad {\text{and}}\\{\frac {\partial v}{\partial t}}&+u\,2\Omega \sin(\varphi )+{\frac {1}{a}}{\frac {\partial }{\partial \varphi }}\left(g\zeta +U\right)=0,\end{aligned}}} 5997: 6906: 540: 524: 1186: 430:, without reference to Kepler's theories of gravitation by mutual attraction; this was extremely influential, with numerous followers of Descartes expounding on this theory throughout the 17th century, particularly in France. However, Descartes and his followers acknowledged the influence of the Moon, speculating that pressure waves from the Moon via the 438: 498:
explanations now, like how the tides interact with deep sea ridges, and chains of seamounts give rise to deep eddies that transport nutrients from the deep to the surface. The equilibrium tide theory calculates the height of the tide wave of less than half a meter, while the dynamic theory explains why tides are up to 15 meters.
284:, judging from discussions of his beliefs in other sources, is thought to have believed the tides were caused by winds driven by the Sun's heat, and he rejected the theory that the Moon caused the tides. An apocryphal legend claims that he committed suicide in frustration with his failure to fully understand the tides. 416:
had two high tides and low tides, though Galileo argued that this was a product of secondary effects and that his theory would hold in the Atlantic. However, Galileo's contemporaries noted that the Atlantic also had two high tides and low tides per day, which led to Galileo omitting this claim from his 1632
4345:("The sphere of the lifting power, which is in the moon, is extended as far as to the earth and attracts the waters under the torrid zone, … However the moon flies swiftly across the zenith; because the waters cannot follow so quickly, the tide of the ocean under the torrid is indeed made to the west, …") 381:) dismisses a large number of misconceptions that still existed about ebb and flood. Stevin pleads for the idea that the attraction of the Moon was responsible for the tides and writes in clear terms about ebb, flood, spring tide and neap tide, stressing that further research needed to be made. In 1609, 415:
led to the current tidal physics. Galileo tried to use his tidal theory to prove the movement of the Earth around the Sun. Galileo theorized that because of the Earth's motion, borders of the oceans like the Atlantic and Pacific would show one high tide and one low tide per day. The Mediterranean Sea
4308:
In all the oceans the water remains at all times the same in quantity, and never, increases or diminishes; but like the water in a caldron, which, in consequence of its combination with heat, expands, so the waters of the ocean swell with the increase of the moon. The waters, although really neither
4321:
Now I myself have seen among the Celts the ocean tides just as they are described. After making various conjectures about why so vast a bulk of waters recedes and advances, I have come to the conclusion that Apollonius discerned the real truth. For in one of his letters to the Indians he says that
324:
and shows that the twice-daily timing of tides is related to the Moon and that the lunar monthly cycle of spring and neap tides is also related to the Moon's position. He goes on to note that the times of tides vary along the same coast and that the water movements cause low tide at one place when
3680:
or Doodson variables. The number of different tidal frequency components is large, but each corresponds to a specific linear combination of six frequencies using small-integer multiples, positive or negative. In principle, these basic angular arguments can be specified in numerous ways; Doodson's
365:
contributed the notion that the tides were caused by the general circulation of the heavens. Medieval Arabic astrologers frequently referenced the Moon's influence on the tides as evidence for the reality of astrology; some of their treatises on the topic influenced western Europe. Some theorized
1162:
Since the mid-twentieth century further analysis has generated many more terms than Doodson's 388. About 62 constituents are of sufficient size to be considered for possible use in marine tide prediction, but sometimes many fewer can predict tides to useful accuracy. The calculations of tide
497:
The equilibrium theory—based on the gravitational gradient from the Sun and Moon but ignoring the Earth's rotation, the effects of continents, and other important effects—could not explain the real ocean tides. Since measurements have confirmed the dynamic theory, many things have possible
108: 1155:, developed the tide-generating potential (TGP) in harmonic form, distinguishing 388 tidal frequencies. Doodson's work was carried out and published in 1921. Doodson devised a practical system for specifying the different harmonic components of the tide-generating potential, the 306:(circa 217-238 AD); he was vaguely aware of a correlation of the tides with the phases of the Moon but attributed them to spirits moving water in and out of caverns, which he connected with the legend that spirits of the dead cannot move on at certain phases of the Moon. 5511:
S Casotto, F Biscani, "A fully analytical approach to the harmonic development of the tide-generating potential accounting for precession, nutation, and perturbations due to figure and planetary terms", AAS Division on Dynamical Astronomy, April 2004, vol.36(2),
4343:"Orbis virtutis tractoriæ, quæ est in Luna, porrigitur utque ad Terras, & prolectat aquas sub Zonam Torridam, … Celeriter vero Luna verticem transvolante, cum aquæ tam celeriter sequi non possint, fluxus quidem fit Oceani sub Torrida in Occidentem, … " 4261:" has a frequency of 2 cycles per lunar day, its Doodson numbers are usually written 255.555, meaning that its frequency is composed of twice the first Doodson argument, and zero times all of the others. The second strongest tidal constituent "S 1123:
Laplace's improvements in theory were substantial, but they still left prediction in an approximate state. This position changed in the 1860s when the local circumstances of tidal phenomena were more fully brought into account by
179:, as the tides there are relatively small, and the areas that experience tides do so unreliably. A number of theories were advanced, however, from comparing the movements to breathing or blood flow to theories involving 631: 5532: 532:
Lunar gravitational potential: this depicts the Moon directly over 30° N (or 30° S) viewed from above the Northern Hemisphere. Note however that the moon is never more than about 28.6° north of the
3749: 3963: 510:
data. Accurate models of tides worldwide are essential for research since the variations due to tides must be removed from measurements when calculating gravity and changes in sea levels.
5374:"TOPEX/Poseidon Western Hemisphere: Tide Height Model : NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center Scientific Visualization Studio : Free Download & Streaming : Internet Archive" 5521:
A T Doodson (1921), "The Harmonic Development of the Tide-Generating Potential", Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Vol. 100, No. 704 (1 December 1921), pp. 305–329.
3802: 4806: 258:, Posidonius in particular making lengthy observations of the sea on the Spanish coast, although little of their work survived. The influence of the Moon on tides was mentioned in 4065: 3908: 3855: 3672:
In order to specify the different harmonic components of the tide-generating potential, Doodson devised a practical system which is still in use, involving what are called the
5250: 4009: 361:, taught that ebb and flood tides were caused by the Moon. Abu Ma'shar discussed the effects of wind and Moon's phases relative to the Sun on the tides. In the 12th century, 4204: 4114: 232:
in 77 AD. Although the schedule of the tides and the link to lunar and solar movements was known, the exact mechanism that connected them was unclear. Classicists
192: 1171:. More recently digital computers, using the method of matrix inversion, are used to determine the tidal harmonic constituents directly from tide gauge records. 5615: 4248: 4226: 4177: 4154: 4134: 4089: 502:
Satellite observations confirm the accuracy of the dynamic theory, and the tides worldwide are now measured to within a few centimeters. Measurements from the
1193:
Tidal constituents combine to give an endlessly varying aggregate because of their different and incommensurable frequencies: the effect is visualized in an
4882: 167:
of Australia identified a link between the Moon and the tides, which they mythically attributed to the Moon filling with water and emptying out again.
458:, which can be used to explain tides on a planet covered by a uniform ocean but which takes no account of the distribution of the continents or ocean 6636: 54: 6626: 5685: 450: 1163:
predictions using the harmonic constituents are laborious, and from the 1870s to about the 1960s they were carried out using a mechanical
5224: 4257:
In terms of this system, each tidal constituent frequency can be identified by its Doodson numbers. The strongest tidal constituent "M
427: 5254: 5387: 1197:
illustrating the way in which the components used to be mechanically combined in the tide-predicting machine. Amplitudes (half of
5639: 6542: 346: 254:(3rd century BC) and Posidonius (1st century BC) both produced detailed descriptions of the tides and their relationship to the 6909: 5957: 5725: 5164: 350: 5450: 4762: 325:
there is high tide elsewhere. However, he made no progress regarding the question of how exactly the Moon created the tides.
70: 5286: 4156:
refer to an alternative set of fundamental angular arguments (usually preferred for use in modern lunar theory), in which:-
6189: 3690: 5678: 6079: 6784: 6211: 6099: 4834: 5424: 1140:, applying the lunar theory current in his time. Darwin's symbols for the tidal harmonic constituents are still used. 6631: 5902: 5612: 5496: 5201: 4694: 4585: 1125: 1084: 403:
He strongly and mockingly rejects the lunar theory of the tides, and tries to explain the tides as the result of the
94: 332:
methods for predicting tides were said to allow one "to know what Moon makes high water" from the Moon's movements.
6089: 6049: 5191: 5134: 4575: 134:(especially Earth's oceans) under the gravitational loading of another astronomical body or bodies (especially the 46: 6819: 5805: 4707: 3966: 482:
in 1775, describes the ocean's real reaction to tidal forces. Laplace's theory of ocean tides takes into account
6899: 6492: 5671: 4507: 4932: 3915: 3756: 292:
sets up winds, and that these winds, when they blow, cause the high tide and, when they cease, the low tide".
5275: 560: 6957: 5947: 5624: 580: 302: 6007: 3862: 3809: 6972: 6144: 5644: 1066: 431: 3974: 240:
connected the tides with the moon, "the former directly, the latter through the setting up of winds".
6679: 6084: 6044: 5468: 4903: 4309:
more nor less, dilate or contract as the moon increases or wanes in the light and dark fortnights. -
1218: 5337: 4856: 4014: 6967: 6809: 6184: 6174: 6114: 5750: 5720: 354: 1117: 59: 6962: 6846: 6829: 6666: 6159: 6024: 5962: 5952: 5845: 4933:"How Kepler Invented Science Fiction ... While Revolutionizing Our Understanding of the Universe" 1164: 227: 50: 218:, although the exact date of discovery is unclear; references to it are made in sources such as 187:
reportedly believed that the tides were caused by water flowing in and out of undersea caverns.
6841: 6779: 6206: 5892: 5024: 4779: 1198: 494:
systems in the world's ocean basins and explains the oceanic tides that are actually observed.
398: 5486: 5228: 6952: 6674: 6656: 6164: 6059: 5694: 4365: 1210: 1144: 474:
gave a description of the static reaction of the waters on Earth to the tidal potential, the
362: 320: 274:
is thought to have theorized around 150 BC that tides were caused by the Moon as part of his
5412: 4254:
It is possible to define several auxiliary variables on the basis of combinations of these.
3684:
The Doodson arguments are specified in the following way, in order of decreasing frequency:
385:
correctly suggested that the gravitation of the Moon causes the tides, which he compared to
6861: 6694: 6397: 6254: 6119: 5830: 5566: 5091: 4970: 4719: 4642: 4534:"Understanding Tides—From Ancient Beliefs toPresent-day Solutions to the Laplace Equations" 4429: 1152: 479: 271: 1194: 1113: 8: 6947: 6856: 6741: 6736: 6462: 6134: 6094: 5810: 5287:
http://ocean.kisti.re.kr/downfile/volume/kess/JGGHBA/2009/v30n5/JGGHBA_2009_v30n5_671.pdf
4329: 1206: 1095:. Under certain conditions this can be further rewritten as a conservation of vorticity. 285: 233: 219: 183:
or river cycles. A similar "breathing earth" idea was considered by some Asian thinkers.
123: 35: 5570: 5391: 5095: 4974: 4723: 4654: 4646: 4558: 4433: 4184: 4094: 6799: 6512: 6502: 6467: 6367: 6352: 6249: 5582: 5115: 4986: 4844: 4735: 4731: 4658: 4631:"On the Origins of Knowledge of the Sea Tides from Antiquity to the Thirteenth Century" 4607: 4279: 4233: 4211: 4162: 4139: 4119: 4074: 1088: 241: 164: 39: 5010: 4883:
The Reception of the Galilean Science of Motion in Seventeenth-Century Europe, pp. 200
4869: 1143:
Darwin's harmonic developments of the tide-generating forces were later improved when
6881: 6871: 6814: 6794: 6477: 6442: 6377: 6357: 6347: 6229: 5917: 5775: 5586: 5492: 5302: 5197: 5107: 4990: 4830: 4758: 4739: 4690: 4581: 4503: 4417: 4274: 1133: 1058: 503: 491: 296:
also "put the tides down to the direct action of the sun according to its position".
200: 176: 74: 5454: 5351: 5168: 5119: 4563:. Gerstein - University of Toronto. Oxford : Clarendon Press. pp. 306–307. 4494: 423: 6836: 6804: 6774: 6583: 6568: 6437: 6372: 6264: 6179: 6109: 6034: 5815: 5785: 5715: 5710: 5635:
Publications from NOAA's Center for Operational Oceanographic Products and Services
5574: 5146: 5099: 4978: 4958: 4727: 4650: 1129: 564: 471: 188: 63: 5451:"Dynamic and residual ocean tide analysis for improved GRACE de-aliasing (DAROTA)" 426:
theorized that the tides (alongside the movement of planets, etc.) were caused by
6641: 6537: 6487: 6452: 6412: 6304: 6124: 6074: 5984: 5942: 5875: 5800: 5760: 5649: 5619: 5006: 1202: 1168: 1156: 393: 382: 333: 223: 5629: 5315: 4310: 437: 6942: 6751: 6746: 6651: 6646: 6482: 6422: 6417: 6149: 6039: 5860: 5795: 5770: 5082: 4612: 1214: 576: 568: 315: 246: 215: 175:
The tides received relatively little attention in the civilizations around the
5996: 5150: 470:
While Newton explained the tides by describing the tide-generating forces and
6936: 6921: 6769: 6689: 6578: 6497: 6472: 6407: 6337: 6244: 6139: 6016: 5937: 5897: 5870: 5780: 5730: 1137: 408: 338: 329: 275: 5634: 4533: 3751:
is mean Lunar time, the Greenwich hour angle of the mean Moon plus 12 hours.
191:
attributed the tides to "the counter-movement (ἀντισπασμός) of the sea” and
6876: 6824: 6764: 6715: 6593: 6588: 6563: 6547: 6522: 6239: 6129: 6069: 5855: 5765: 5740: 5111: 4323: 1222: 1148: 445: 389:
attraction basing his argument upon ancient observations and correlations.
374: 297: 251: 199:
text dated to 400-300 BC refers to the ocean rising and falling because of
112: 5276:
http://faculty.washington.edu/luanne/pages/ocean420/notes/tidedynamics.pdf
4757:. Translated by Faith Wallis. Liverpool University Press. pp. 64–65. 1108: 6866: 6598: 6527: 6392: 6332: 6299: 6289: 6284: 6169: 6104: 6064: 6054: 6029: 5912: 5885: 5865: 5825: 5790: 5654: 4710:(1987). "The Heliocentric System in Greek, Persian and Hindu Astronomy". 4682: 4392:
Archaeoastronomy & Ethnoastronomy – Building Bridges Between Cultures
4284: 1112:
Spectrum of tides measured at Ft. Pulaski in 2012. Data downloaded from
455: 345:
Medieval European understanding of the tides was often based on works of
293: 255: 160: 130:
deformations of planetary and satellite bodies and their atmospheres and
5663: 4662: 4630: 1185: 1180: 6684: 6532: 6507: 6402: 6382: 6309: 6294: 6279: 6269: 6234: 6154: 5974: 5969: 5932: 5927: 5922: 5820: 5578: 5373: 4289: 459: 366:
that the influence was caused by lunar rays heating the ocean's floor.
237: 6916: 5613:
Contributions of satellite laser ranging to the studies of earth tides
5388:"TOPEX data used to model actual tides for 15 days from the year 2000" 4982: 6756: 6618: 6603: 6517: 6362: 6201: 6196: 5979: 5907: 5835: 5755: 5745: 5702: 1136:. Thomson's work in this field was further developed and extended by 1092: 1078: 610: 487: 386: 281: 267: 180: 5428: 5002: 5000: 4466: 412: 6851: 6573: 6432: 6324: 6314: 6259: 5735: 5103: 1201:) of tidal constituents are given below for six example locations: 603: 483: 5297:
Bryden, I.G. (2003). "Tidal Power Systems", in Meyers, R.A. (ed.)
579:
equations, but they can also be derived from energy integrals via
6720: 6710: 5880: 5850: 5557:
Melchior, P. (1971). "Precession-nutations and tidal potential".
4997: 4228:
is the Moon's mean argument of latitude (distance from its node).
572: 259: 250:
the periodic motion of the tides controlled by the lunar sphere.
196: 4780:"A STUDY IN THE DEVELOPMENT OF PRIMITIVE AND MODERN TIDE TABLES" 6427: 5840: 1118:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/amoreaccuratefouriertransform/
552:. Viewed from above the Northern Hemisphere. Red up, blue down. 156: 107: 539: 523: 6789: 6608: 6387: 6342: 507: 404: 184: 131: 4390:""Bridging the Gap" through Australian Cultural Astronomy". 4179:
is the mean anomaly of the Moon (distance from its perigee).
6221: 4206:
is the mean anomaly of the Sun (distance from its perigee).
490:
and natural periods of ocean basins. It predicts the large
207: 135: 127: 379:
De spiegheling der Ebbenvloet (The Theory of Ebb and Flood
5600:
See for example Melchior (1971), already cited, at p.191.
5413:
http://www.geomag.us/info/Ocean/m2_CHAMP+longwave_SSH.swf
289: 211: 139: 57:
and tools are available to assist in formatting, such as
5352:"Scientific Visualization Studio TOPEX/Poseidon images" 1114:
http://tidesandcurrents.noaa.gov/datums.html?id=8670870
4250:
is the Moon's mean elongation (distance from the sun).
575:. Laplace obtained these equations by simplifying the 4236: 4214: 4187: 4165: 4142: 4122: 4097: 4077: 4017: 3977: 3918: 3865: 3812: 3759: 3744:{\displaystyle \beta _{1}=\tau =(\theta _{M}+\pi -s)} 3693: 629: 3965:
is the negative of the longitude of the Moon's mean
336:
references the Moon's influence on the tides in his
195:
to "the refluxes from the Ocean". An ancient Indian
5469:"The Laplace Tidal Equations and Atmospheric Tides" 559:In 1776, Laplace formulated a single set of linear 548:This view shows same potential from 180° from view 4825:Marina Tolmacheva (2014). Glick, Thomas F. (ed.). 4242: 4220: 4198: 4171: 4148: 4128: 4108: 4083: 4059: 4003: 3957: 3902: 3849: 3796: 3743: 1042: 150: 6637:North West Shelf Operational Oceanographic System 4959:"Kepler and the origins of the theory of gravity" 4824: 6934: 5491:. Cambridge University Press. pp. 163–164. 5251:"Short notes on the Dynamical theory of Laplace" 1098: 594:, as well as the horizontal velocity components 506:satellite closely match the models based on the 6627:Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis 5299:Encyclopedia of Physical Science and Technology 4706: 5080:Naylor, Ron (2007). "Galileo's Tidal Theory". 1195:animation of the American Mathematical Society 5679: 4820: 4818: 4816: 4814: 571:are introduced as well as lateral forcing by 5552: 5550: 5013:, by Rossella Gigli, retrieved 10 March 2010 4926: 4924: 4787:PhD Thesis, Liverpool John Moores University 4560:Aristarchus of Samos, the ancient Copernicus 4460: 4458: 4456: 4454: 4452: 4450: 3910:is the longitude of the Moon's mean perigee. 1077:is the external gravitational tidal-forcing 513: 38:, which are uninformative and vulnerable to 4918:(1609), p. 5 of the Introductio in hoc opus 4411: 4409: 4407: 4405: 4403: 4401: 4067:is the longitude of the Sun's mean perigee. 3420:Shallow water overtides of principal solar 3313:Shallow water overtides of principal solar 1189:Tidal prediction summing constituent parts. 1087:rewrote Laplace's momentum terms using the 53:and maintains a consistent citation style. 5686: 5672: 5484: 5196:. Cambridge University Press. p. 31. 5189: 4811: 4712:Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences 4628: 4624: 4622: 4573: 3207:Shallow water overtides of principal lunar 3153:Shallow water overtides of principal lunar 1625:Lunar elliptical semidiurnal second-order 5693: 5547: 5313: 4921: 4580:. Cambridge University Press. p. 6. 4447: 4422:Memorie della Società Astronomia Italiana 4415: 955: 817: 454:, provides a correct explanation for the 95:Learn how and when to remove this message 16:Scientific interpretation of tidal forces 5556: 5301:. Aberdeen: Academic Press, p. 753. doi: 5049: 4870:Simon Stevin – Flanders Marine Institute 4398: 3958:{\displaystyle \beta _{5}=N'=(-\Omega )} 3797:{\displaystyle \beta _{2}=s=(F+\Omega )} 1184: 1107: 436: 106: 5645:150 Years of Tides on the Western Coast 5478: 5225:"Static Tides – the equilibrium Theory" 5064: 4619: 4502:. JOHN WILEY & SONS. pp. 2–4. 586:For a fluid sheet of average thickness 6935: 5958:one-dimensional Saint-Venant equations 5079: 5067:Re-examining Galileo's Theory of Tides 5052:Re-examining Galileo's Theory of Tides 4956: 4930: 4539:. Vol. 33, no. 2. SIAM News. 4528: 4526: 4488: 4486: 4484: 4464: 434:were responsible for the correlation. 5667: 5427:. Volkov.oce.orst.edu. Archived from 5132: 5022: 4556: 1174: 6905: 4752: 4552: 4550: 4548: 4546: 4492: 1103: 214:) and the tides became known to the 18: 5591:and T D Moyer (2003) already cited. 4655:10.17704/eshi.20.2.m23118527q395675 4523: 4493:Pugh, David T. (28 December 1987). 4481: 3070:Amplitude at example location (cm) 2692:Amplitude at example location (cm) 2032:Amplitude at example location (cm) 1890:Smaller lunar elliptic semidiurnal 1262:Amplitude at example location (cm) 45:Please consider converting them to 13: 6785:National Oceanographic Data Center 6212:World Ocean Circulation Experiment 6100:Global Ocean Data Analysis Project 5253:. 20 November 2011. Archived from 4931:Popova, Maria (27 December 2019). 4777: 4732:10.1111/j.1749-6632.1987.tb37224.x 4071:In these expressions, the symbols 3949: 3903:{\displaystyle \beta _{4}=p=(s-l)} 3850:{\displaystyle \beta _{3}=h=(s-D)} 3804:is the mean longitude of the Moon. 3788: 3667: 996: 992: 959: 936: 928: 875: 871: 821: 798: 790: 729: 725: 699: 695: 645: 637: 616:directions, respectively) satisfy 309: 14: 6984: 6632:Global Sea Level Observing System 5606: 5533:"Eastport, ME Tidal Constituents" 5338:"The Cause & Nature of Tides" 5135:"Descartes's theory of the tides" 4543: 3857:is the mean longitude of the Sun. 1459:Larger lunar elliptic semidiurnal 465: 6915: 6904: 6895: 6894: 6090:Geochemical Ocean Sections Study 6006: 5995: 5530: 5485:Cartwright, David Edgar (1999). 5190:Cartwright, David Edgar (1999). 5023:Tyson, Peter (29 October 2002). 4574:Cartwright, David Edgar (1999). 4496:Tides, Surges and Mean Sea-Level 4311:The Vishnu Purana book II ch. IV 4004:{\displaystyle \beta _{6}=p_{l}} 2440:Larger lunar evectional diurnal 1116:Fourier transform computed with 538: 522: 353:starting from the 12th century. 300:discusses tides in Book Five of 206:Ultimately the link between the 170: 23: 6820:Ocean thermal energy conversion 6543:Vine–Matthews–Morley hypothesis 5594: 5524: 5515: 5505: 5461: 5443: 5417: 5406: 5380: 5366: 5344: 5330: 5307: 5291: 5280: 5269: 5243: 5217: 5183: 5157: 5126: 5073: 5069:. Springer-Verlag. p. 227. 5058: 5054:. Springer-Verlag. p. 229. 5043: 5016: 4950: 4908: 4888: 4875: 4863: 4800: 4771: 4746: 4700: 4676: 4601: 4370:Australian Indigenous Astronomy 4336: 4315: 3036: 2386:Smaller lunar elliptic diurnal 2334:Smaller lunar elliptic diurnal 1228: 915: 590:, the vertical tidal elevation 151:Australian Aboriginal astronomy 5390:. 15 June 2000. Archived from 5303:10.1016/b0-12-227410-5/00778-x 4902:(Introduction to this work). 4567: 4383: 4358: 4302: 4060:{\displaystyle p_{s}=(s-D-l')} 4054: 4031: 3952: 3943: 3897: 3885: 3844: 3832: 3791: 3779: 3738: 3713: 3615:Shallow water quarter diurnal 3366:Shallow water quarter diurnal 2932:Lunisolar synodic fortnightly 2656: 2492:Larger lunar elliptic diurnal 974: 968: 863: 857: 836: 830: 761: 755: 717: 708: 682: 676: 563:for tidal flow described as a 561:partial differential equations 349:that became available through 266:as evidence of the reality of 236:claimed that both Pytheas and 49:to ensure the article remains 1: 5655:GeoTide Tidal Analysis System 5011:Galileo's Theory of the Tides 4689:, Feltrinelli, Milano, 2003, 4629:Cartwright, David E. (2001). 4557:Heath, Thomas Little (1913). 4352: 3567:Shallow water eighth diurnal 1099:Tidal analysis and prediction 1085:William Thomson (Lord Kelvin) 1073:is the planetary radius, and 369: 359:Introductorium in astronomiam 126:to interpret and predict the 6080:El Niño–Southern Oscillation 6050:Craik–Leibovich vortex force 5806:Luke's variational principle 4465:Marmer, H. A. (March 1922). 4280:Lunar node § Effect on tides 1401:Principal solar semidiurnal 1345:Principal lunar semidiurnal 1167:, a special-purpose form of 567:two-dimensional sheet flow. 203:from the light of the Moon. 7: 5488:Tides: A Scientific History 5193:Tides: A Scientific History 4963:American Journal of Physics 4577:Tides: A Scientific History 4268: 1069:at the mean ocean surface, 303:Life of Apollonius of Tyana 10: 6989: 6145:Ocean dynamical thermostat 5993: 5425:"OSU Tidal Data Inversion" 4829:. Routledge. p. 188. 4467:"The Problems of the Tide" 1998: 1840:Shallow water semidiurnal 1178: 1067:gravitational acceleration 1061:of the planet's rotation, 145: 6890: 6729: 6703: 6680:Ocean acoustic tomography 6665: 6617: 6556: 6493:Mohorovičić discontinuity 6451: 6323: 6220: 6085:General circulation model 6015: 5721:Benjamin–Feir instability 5701: 5151:10.1080/00033795500200335 3516:Shallow water terdiurnal 3072: 3069: 3064: 3061: 3056: 3051: 3046: 3043: 2694: 2691: 2686: 2683: 2678: 2671: 2666: 2663: 2034: 2031: 2026: 2023: 2018: 2013: 2008: 2005: 1680:Smaller lunar evectional 1264: 1261: 1256: 1253: 1248: 1243: 1238: 1235: 1219:San Francisco, California 1159:, a system still in use. 618:Laplace's tidal equations 514:Laplace's tidal equations 441:Newton's three-body model 409:revolution around the Sun 111:High and low tide in the 6810:Ocean surface topography 6185:Thermohaline circulation 6175:Subsurface ocean current 6115:Hydrothermal circulation 5948:Wave–current interaction 5726:Boussinesq approximation 5050:Palmieri, Paolo (1998). 4295: 3260:Shallow water terdiurnal 2546:Larger elliptic diurnal 1516:Larger lunar evectional 1181:Tide § Constituents 1132:to the tidal motions as 1091:to find an equation for 6847:Sea surface temperature 6830:Outline of oceanography 6025:Atmospheric circulation 5963:shallow water equations 5953:Waves and shallow water 5846:Significant wave height 5625:Dynamic Theory of Tides 5065:Palmeri, Paolo (1998). 5025:"Galileo's Big Mistake" 4900:Introductio in hoc opus 1788:Smaller solar elliptic 1165:tide-predicting machine 476:dynamic theory of tides 318:discusses the tides in 6842:Sea surface microlayer 6207:Wind generated current 5165:"Voltaire, Letter XIV" 4957:Eugene, Hecht (2019). 4898:… (1609), p. 5 of the 4827:Geography, Chorography 4708:Van der Waerden, B. L. 4635:Earth Sciences History 4471:The Scientific Monthly 4418:"The tides and Newton" 4416:Tabarroni, G. (1989). 4244: 4222: 4200: 4173: 4150: 4130: 4110: 4085: 4061: 4005: 3959: 3904: 3851: 3798: 3745: 2983:Lunisolar fortnightly 1944:Lunisolar semidiurnal 1734:Larger solar elliptic 1199:peak-to-peak amplitude 1190: 1120: 1044: 442: 399:Discourse on the Tides 193:Apollodorus of Corcyra 122:is the application of 115: 6675:Deep scattering layer 6657:World Geodetic System 6165:Princeton Ocean Model 6045:Coriolis–Stokes force 5695:Physical oceanography 4755:The Reckoning of Time 4245: 4223: 4201: 4174: 4151: 4131: 4111: 4086: 4062: 4006: 3960: 3905: 3852: 3799: 3746: 3062:Doodson coefficients 2684:Doodson coefficients 2024:Doodson coefficients 1254:Doodson coefficients 1211:San Juan, Puerto Rico 1188: 1179:Further information: 1111: 1045: 440: 355:Abu Ma'shar al-Balkhi 321:The Reckoning of Time 110: 6695:Underwater acoustics 6255:Perigean spring tide 6120:Langmuir circulation 5831:Rossby-gravity waves 5650:Our Relentless Tides 5618:28 July 2013 at the 5394:on 18 September 2015 5133:Aiton, E.J. (1955). 4234: 4212: 4185: 4163: 4140: 4120: 4095: 4075: 4015: 3975: 3916: 3863: 3810: 3757: 3691: 627: 480:Pierre-Simon Laplace 272:Seleucus of Seleucia 6958:Continuum mechanics 6857:Science On a Sphere 6463:Convergent boundary 6135:Modular Ocean Model 6095:Geostrophic current 5811:Mild-slope equation 5640:Understanding Tides 5571:1971CeMec...4..190M 5559:Celestial Mechanics 5354:. Svs.gsfc.nasa.gov 5318:. Seafriends.org.nz 5096:2007Isis...98....1N 4975:2019AmJPh..87..176H 4916:Astronomia nova ... 4724:1987NYASA.500..525V 4647:2001ESHis..20..105C 4434:1989MmSAI..60..769T 4330:Apollonius of Tyana 1207:Biloxi, Mississippi 581:Lagrange's equation 234:Thomas Little Heath 220:Pytheas of Massilia 124:continuum mechanics 6513:Seafloor spreading 6503:Outer trench swell 6468:Divergent boundary 6368:Continental margin 6353:Carbonate platform 6250:Lunitidal interval 5630:Tidal Observations 5579:10.1007/BF01228823 5431:on 22 October 2012 4885:op books.google.nl 4240: 4218: 4199:{\displaystyle l'} 4196: 4169: 4146: 4126: 4109:{\displaystyle l'} 4106: 4081: 4057: 4001: 3955: 3900: 3847: 3794: 3741: 1191: 1175:Tidal constituents 1128:'s application of 1121: 1040: 1038: 443: 347:Muslim astronomers 256:phases of the Moon 165:Northern Territory 116: 6973:Planetary science 6930: 6929: 6922:Oceans portal 6882:World Ocean Atlas 6872:Underwater glider 6815:Ocean temperature 6478:Hydrothermal vent 6443:Submarine volcano 6378:Continental shelf 6358:Coastal geography 6348:Bathymetric chart 6230:Amphidromic point 5918:Wave nonlinearity 5776:Infragravity wave 5139:Annals of Science 4983:10.1119/1.5089751 4914:Johannes Kepler, 4894:Johannes Kepler, 4807:Inferno XVI 82-83 4764:978-0-85323-693-1 4687:Flussi e riflussi 4275:Long-period tides 4243:{\displaystyle D} 4221:{\displaystyle F} 4172:{\displaystyle l} 4149:{\displaystyle D} 4129:{\displaystyle F} 4084:{\displaystyle l} 3678:Doodson arguments 3676:based on the six 3665: 3664: 3469:Lunar terdiurnal 3034: 3033: 2826:Solar semiannual 2654: 2653: 1996: 1995: 1134:harmonic analysis 1104:Harmonic analysis 1059:angular frequency 1003: 988: 943: 919: 882: 867: 805: 736: 706: 686: 652: 428:aetheric vortices 351:Latin translation 177:Mediterranean Sea 105: 104: 97: 55:Several templates 6980: 6920: 6919: 6908: 6907: 6898: 6897: 6837:Pelagic sediment 6775:Marine pollution 6569:Deep ocean water 6438:Submarine canyon 6373:Continental rise 6265:Rule of twelfths 6180:Sverdrup balance 6110:Humboldt Current 6035:Boundary current 6010: 5999: 5816:Radiation stress 5786:Iribarren number 5761:Equatorial waves 5716:Ballantine scale 5711:Airy wave theory 5688: 5681: 5674: 5665: 5664: 5601: 5598: 5592: 5590: 5554: 5545: 5544: 5542: 5540: 5528: 5522: 5519: 5513: 5509: 5503: 5502: 5482: 5476: 5475: 5473: 5465: 5459: 5458: 5457:on 2 April 2015. 5453:. Archived from 5447: 5441: 5440: 5438: 5436: 5421: 5415: 5410: 5404: 5403: 5401: 5399: 5384: 5378: 5377: 5370: 5364: 5363: 5361: 5359: 5348: 5342: 5341: 5334: 5328: 5327: 5325: 5323: 5311: 5305: 5295: 5289: 5284: 5278: 5273: 5267: 5266: 5264: 5262: 5247: 5241: 5240: 5238: 5236: 5231:on 10 April 2014 5227:. Archived from 5221: 5215: 5214: 5212: 5210: 5187: 5181: 5180: 5178: 5176: 5171:on 13 April 2021 5167:. Archived from 5161: 5155: 5154: 5130: 5124: 5123: 5077: 5071: 5070: 5062: 5056: 5055: 5047: 5041: 5040: 5038: 5036: 5020: 5014: 5004: 4995: 4994: 4954: 4948: 4947: 4945: 4943: 4928: 4919: 4912: 4906: 4892: 4886: 4879: 4873: 4867: 4861: 4860: 4854: 4850: 4848: 4840: 4822: 4809: 4804: 4798: 4797: 4795: 4793: 4784: 4775: 4769: 4768: 4750: 4744: 4743: 4704: 4698: 4680: 4674: 4673: 4671: 4669: 4626: 4617: 4605: 4599: 4598: 4596: 4594: 4571: 4565: 4564: 4554: 4541: 4540: 4538: 4530: 4521: 4520: 4518: 4516: 4501: 4490: 4479: 4478: 4462: 4445: 4444: 4442: 4440: 4413: 4396: 4395: 4394:: 282–290. 2011. 4387: 4381: 4380: 4378: 4376: 4362: 4346: 4340: 4334: 4319: 4313: 4306: 4249: 4247: 4246: 4241: 4227: 4225: 4224: 4219: 4205: 4203: 4202: 4197: 4195: 4178: 4176: 4175: 4170: 4155: 4153: 4152: 4147: 4135: 4133: 4132: 4127: 4115: 4113: 4112: 4107: 4105: 4090: 4088: 4087: 4082: 4066: 4064: 4063: 4058: 4053: 4027: 4026: 4010: 4008: 4007: 4002: 4000: 3999: 3987: 3986: 3969:on the ecliptic. 3964: 3962: 3961: 3956: 3939: 3928: 3927: 3909: 3907: 3906: 3901: 3875: 3874: 3856: 3854: 3853: 3848: 3822: 3821: 3803: 3801: 3800: 3795: 3769: 3768: 3750: 3748: 3747: 3742: 3725: 3724: 3703: 3702: 3041: 3040: 2661: 2660: 2003: 2002: 1233: 1232: 1130:Fourier analysis 1065:is the planet's 1049: 1047: 1046: 1041: 1039: 1026: 1022: 1004: 1002: 991: 989: 981: 944: 942: 934: 926: 920: 917: 905: 901: 883: 881: 870: 868: 866: 843: 806: 804: 796: 788: 773: 769: 768: 764: 737: 735: 724: 707: 705: 694: 687: 685: 662: 653: 651: 643: 635: 569:Coriolis effects 542: 526: 472:Daniel Bernoulli 413:further analysis 407:'s rotation and 189:Crates of Mallus 159:of northeastern 100: 93: 89: 86: 80: 78: 67: 27: 26: 19: 6988: 6987: 6983: 6982: 6981: 6979: 6978: 6977: 6968:Fluid mechanics 6933: 6932: 6931: 6926: 6914: 6886: 6725: 6699: 6661: 6642:Sea-level curve 6613: 6552: 6538:Transform fault 6488:Mid-ocean ridge 6454: 6447: 6413:Oceanic plateau 6319: 6305:Tidal resonance 6275:Theory of tides 6216: 6125:Longshore drift 6075:Ekman transport 6011: 6005: 6004: 6003: 6002: 6001: 6000: 5991: 5943:Wave turbulence 5876:Trochoidal wave 5801:Longshore drift 5697: 5692: 5620:Wayback Machine 5609: 5604: 5599: 5595: 5555: 5548: 5538: 5536: 5529: 5525: 5520: 5516: 5510: 5506: 5499: 5483: 5479: 5471: 5467: 5466: 5462: 5449: 5448: 5444: 5434: 5432: 5423: 5422: 5418: 5411: 5407: 5397: 5395: 5386: 5385: 5381: 5376:. 15 June 2000. 5372: 5371: 5367: 5357: 5355: 5350: 5349: 5345: 5336: 5335: 5331: 5321: 5319: 5314:Floor Anthoni. 5312: 5308: 5296: 5292: 5285: 5281: 5274: 5270: 5260: 5258: 5257:on 2 April 2015 5249: 5248: 5244: 5234: 5232: 5223: 5222: 5218: 5208: 5206: 5204: 5188: 5184: 5174: 5172: 5163: 5162: 5158: 5131: 5127: 5078: 5074: 5063: 5059: 5048: 5044: 5034: 5032: 5021: 5017: 5007:Rice University 5005: 4998: 4955: 4951: 4941: 4939: 4929: 4922: 4913: 4909: 4896:Astronomia nova 4893: 4889: 4880: 4876: 4872:(pdf, in Dutch) 4868: 4864: 4852: 4851: 4842: 4841: 4837: 4823: 4812: 4805: 4801: 4791: 4789: 4782: 4776: 4772: 4765: 4751: 4747: 4705: 4701: 4681: 4677: 4667: 4665: 4627: 4620: 4606: 4602: 4592: 4590: 4588: 4572: 4568: 4555: 4544: 4536: 4532: 4531: 4524: 4514: 4512: 4510: 4499: 4491: 4482: 4463: 4448: 4438: 4436: 4414: 4399: 4389: 4388: 4384: 4374: 4372: 4364: 4363: 4359: 4355: 4350: 4349: 4341: 4337: 4320: 4316: 4307: 4303: 4298: 4271: 4264: 4260: 4235: 4232: 4231: 4213: 4210: 4209: 4188: 4186: 4183: 4182: 4164: 4161: 4160: 4141: 4138: 4137: 4121: 4118: 4117: 4098: 4096: 4093: 4092: 4076: 4073: 4072: 4046: 4022: 4018: 4016: 4013: 4012: 3995: 3991: 3982: 3978: 3976: 3973: 3972: 3932: 3923: 3919: 3917: 3914: 3913: 3870: 3866: 3864: 3861: 3860: 3817: 3813: 3811: 3808: 3807: 3764: 3760: 3758: 3755: 3754: 3720: 3716: 3698: 3694: 3692: 3689: 3688: 3674:Doodson numbers 3670: 3668:Doodson numbers 3623: 3575: 3525: 3477: 3428: 3375: 3322: 3269: 3216: 3162: 3124: 3111: 3098: 3085: 3074: 3066: 3058: 3053: 3048: 3039: 2995: 2991: 2944: 2940: 2891: 2887: 2838: 2834: 2786: 2782: 2746: 2733: 2720: 2707: 2696: 2688: 2680: 2675: 2673: 2668: 2659: 2609: 2555: 2500: 2394: 2342: 2289: 2236: 2181: 2124: 2086: 2073: 2060: 2047: 2036: 2028: 2020: 2015: 2010: 2001: 1952: 1898: 1849: 1796: 1742: 1688: 1634: 1579: 1524: 1468: 1410: 1354: 1316: 1303: 1290: 1277: 1266: 1258: 1250: 1245: 1240: 1231: 1203:Eastport, Maine 1183: 1177: 1169:analog computer 1157:Doodson numbers 1147:, applying the 1126:William Thomson 1106: 1101: 1037: 1036: 1009: 1005: 995: 990: 980: 945: 935: 927: 925: 922: 921: 916: 888: 884: 874: 869: 847: 842: 807: 797: 789: 787: 784: 783: 742: 738: 728: 723: 698: 693: 692: 688: 666: 661: 654: 644: 636: 634: 630: 628: 625: 624: 557: 556: 555: 554: 553: 543: 535: 534: 527: 516: 499: 478:, developed by 468: 394:Galileo Galilei 383:Johannes Kepler 372: 312: 310:Medieval period 288:also held "the 229:Natural History 224:Pliny the Elder 173: 153: 148: 120:theory of tides 101: 90: 84: 81: 69: 58: 44: 28: 24: 17: 12: 11: 5: 6986: 6976: 6975: 6970: 6965: 6963:Fluid dynamics 6960: 6955: 6950: 6945: 6928: 6927: 6925: 6924: 6912: 6902: 6891: 6888: 6887: 6885: 6884: 6879: 6874: 6869: 6864: 6862:Stratification 6859: 6854: 6849: 6844: 6839: 6834: 6833: 6832: 6822: 6817: 6812: 6807: 6802: 6797: 6792: 6787: 6782: 6777: 6772: 6767: 6762: 6754: 6752:Color of water 6749: 6747:Benthic lander 6744: 6739: 6733: 6731: 6727: 6726: 6724: 6723: 6718: 6713: 6707: 6705: 6701: 6700: 6698: 6697: 6692: 6687: 6682: 6677: 6671: 6669: 6663: 6662: 6660: 6659: 6654: 6652:Sea level rise 6649: 6647:Sea level drop 6644: 6639: 6634: 6629: 6623: 6621: 6615: 6614: 6612: 6611: 6606: 6601: 6596: 6591: 6586: 6581: 6576: 6571: 6566: 6560: 6558: 6554: 6553: 6551: 6550: 6545: 6540: 6535: 6530: 6525: 6520: 6515: 6510: 6505: 6500: 6495: 6490: 6485: 6483:Marine geology 6480: 6475: 6470: 6465: 6459: 6457: 6449: 6448: 6446: 6445: 6440: 6435: 6430: 6425: 6423:Passive margin 6420: 6418:Oceanic trench 6415: 6410: 6405: 6400: 6395: 6390: 6385: 6380: 6375: 6370: 6365: 6360: 6355: 6350: 6345: 6340: 6335: 6329: 6327: 6321: 6320: 6318: 6317: 6312: 6307: 6302: 6297: 6292: 6287: 6282: 6277: 6272: 6267: 6262: 6257: 6252: 6247: 6242: 6237: 6232: 6226: 6224: 6218: 6217: 6215: 6214: 6209: 6204: 6199: 6194: 6193: 6192: 6182: 6177: 6172: 6167: 6162: 6157: 6152: 6150:Ocean dynamics 6147: 6142: 6137: 6132: 6127: 6122: 6117: 6112: 6107: 6102: 6097: 6092: 6087: 6082: 6077: 6072: 6067: 6062: 6057: 6052: 6047: 6042: 6040:Coriolis force 6037: 6032: 6027: 6021: 6019: 6013: 6012: 5994: 5992: 5990: 5989: 5988: 5987: 5977: 5972: 5967: 5966: 5965: 5960: 5950: 5945: 5940: 5935: 5930: 5925: 5920: 5915: 5910: 5905: 5900: 5895: 5890: 5889: 5888: 5878: 5873: 5868: 5863: 5861:Stokes problem 5858: 5853: 5848: 5843: 5838: 5833: 5828: 5823: 5818: 5813: 5808: 5803: 5798: 5796:Kinematic wave 5793: 5788: 5783: 5778: 5773: 5768: 5763: 5758: 5753: 5748: 5743: 5738: 5733: 5728: 5723: 5718: 5713: 5707: 5705: 5699: 5698: 5691: 5690: 5683: 5676: 5668: 5660: 5659: 5658: 5657: 5652: 5647: 5642: 5632: 5627: 5622: 5608: 5607:External links 5605: 5603: 5602: 5593: 5565:(2): 190–212. 5546: 5523: 5514: 5504: 5497: 5477: 5460: 5442: 5416: 5405: 5379: 5365: 5343: 5329: 5306: 5290: 5279: 5268: 5242: 5216: 5202: 5182: 5156: 5145:(4): 337–348. 5125: 5104:10.1086/512829 5072: 5057: 5042: 5015: 4996: 4969:(3): 176–185. 4949: 4937:Brain Pickings 4920: 4907: 4887: 4874: 4862: 4836:978-1135459321 4835: 4810: 4799: 4778:HUGHES, PAUL. 4770: 4763: 4745: 4718:(1): 525–545. 4699: 4675: 4641:(2): 105–126. 4618: 4613:De Providentia 4600: 4586: 4566: 4542: 4522: 4508: 4480: 4446: 4397: 4382: 4356: 4354: 4351: 4348: 4347: 4335: 4314: 4300: 4299: 4297: 4294: 4293: 4292: 4287: 4282: 4277: 4270: 4267: 4262: 4258: 4252: 4251: 4239: 4229: 4217: 4207: 4194: 4191: 4180: 4168: 4145: 4125: 4104: 4101: 4080: 4069: 4068: 4056: 4052: 4049: 4045: 4042: 4039: 4036: 4033: 4030: 4025: 4021: 3998: 3994: 3990: 3985: 3981: 3970: 3967:ascending node 3954: 3951: 3948: 3945: 3942: 3938: 3935: 3931: 3926: 3922: 3911: 3899: 3896: 3893: 3890: 3887: 3884: 3881: 3878: 3873: 3869: 3858: 3846: 3843: 3840: 3837: 3834: 3831: 3828: 3825: 3820: 3816: 3805: 3793: 3790: 3787: 3784: 3781: 3778: 3775: 3772: 3767: 3763: 3752: 3740: 3737: 3734: 3731: 3728: 3723: 3719: 3715: 3712: 3709: 3706: 3701: 3697: 3669: 3666: 3663: 3662: 3659: 3657: 3654: 3651: 3649: 3647: 3644: 3641: 3639: 3636: 3633: 3630: 3627: 3624: 3621: 3616: 3612: 3611: 3608: 3606: 3604: 3602: 3600: 3597: 3594: 3591: 3589: 3587: 3585: 3582: 3579: 3576: 3573: 3568: 3564: 3563: 3560: 3558: 3555: 3552: 3550: 3548: 3545: 3542: 3540: 3538: 3535: 3532: 3529: 3526: 3523: 3517: 3513: 3512: 3509: 3507: 3504: 3502: 3500: 3498: 3496: 3493: 3491: 3489: 3487: 3484: 3481: 3478: 3475: 3470: 3466: 3465: 3462: 3460: 3458: 3456: 3454: 3451: 3449: 3446: 3444: 3441: 3438: 3435: 3432: 3429: 3426: 3421: 3417: 3416: 3411: 3409: 3406: 3403: 3401: 3399: 3396: 3393: 3390: 3388: 3385: 3382: 3379: 3376: 3373: 3368: 3362: 3361: 3356: 3354: 3352: 3350: 3348: 3345: 3343: 3340: 3338: 3335: 3332: 3329: 3326: 3323: 3320: 3315: 3309: 3308: 3303: 3301: 3298: 3295: 3293: 3291: 3289: 3286: 3284: 3282: 3279: 3276: 3273: 3270: 3267: 3262: 3256: 3255: 3250: 3248: 3246: 3243: 3241: 3238: 3235: 3232: 3230: 3228: 3226: 3223: 3220: 3217: 3214: 3209: 3203: 3202: 3197: 3195: 3192: 3189: 3187: 3184: 3181: 3178: 3176: 3174: 3172: 3169: 3166: 3163: 3160: 3155: 3149: 3148: 3145: 3142: 3139: 3136: 3133: 3130: 3122: 3117: 3109: 3104: 3096: 3091: 3083: 3077: 3076: 3071: 3068: 3063: 3060: 3055: 3050: 3045: 3038: 3035: 3032: 3031: 3028: 3025: 3023: 3020: 3017: 3015: 3013: 3010: 3008: 3006: 3003: 3000: 2997: 2992: 2989: 2984: 2980: 2979: 2976: 2974: 2972: 2969: 2967: 2965: 2963: 2960: 2958: 2955: 2952: 2949: 2946: 2941: 2938: 2933: 2929: 2928: 2925: 2922: 2919: 2916: 2913: 2911: 2909: 2906: 2904: 2901: 2899: 2896: 2893: 2892:365.256360417 2888: 2885: 2880: 2876: 2875: 2872: 2870: 2867: 2864: 2861: 2859: 2856: 2853: 2851: 2848: 2846: 2843: 2840: 2839:182.628180208 2835: 2832: 2827: 2823: 2822: 2819: 2817: 2815: 2812: 2809: 2807: 2805: 2802: 2799: 2797: 2794: 2791: 2788: 2783: 2780: 2775: 2774:Lunar monthly 2771: 2770: 2767: 2764: 2761: 2758: 2755: 2752: 2744: 2739: 2731: 2726: 2718: 2713: 2705: 2699: 2698: 2693: 2690: 2685: 2682: 2677: 2670: 2665: 2658: 2655: 2652: 2651: 2648: 2645: 2642: 2639: 2636: 2633: 2630: 2627: 2625: 2622: 2619: 2616: 2613: 2610: 2607: 2602: 2601:Solar diurnal 2598: 2597: 2594: 2591: 2588: 2585: 2582: 2579: 2576: 2573: 2570: 2568: 2565: 2562: 2559: 2556: 2553: 2547: 2543: 2542: 2539: 2536: 2533: 2530: 2527: 2524: 2521: 2518: 2515: 2513: 2510: 2507: 2504: 2501: 2498: 2493: 2489: 2488: 2485: 2482: 2479: 2476: 2473: 2470: 2467: 2464: 2461: 2458: 2455: 2452: 2449: 2446: 2441: 2437: 2436: 2433: 2430: 2427: 2424: 2421: 2418: 2415: 2412: 2409: 2407: 2404: 2401: 2398: 2395: 2392: 2387: 2383: 2382: 2379: 2376: 2373: 2370: 2367: 2364: 2361: 2358: 2356: 2354: 2352: 2349: 2346: 2343: 2340: 2335: 2331: 2330: 2327: 2324: 2321: 2318: 2315: 2313: 2310: 2307: 2305: 2302: 2299: 2296: 2293: 2290: 2287: 2282: 2281:Solar diurnal 2278: 2277: 2274: 2271: 2268: 2265: 2262: 2259: 2256: 2253: 2251: 2249: 2246: 2243: 2240: 2237: 2234: 2229: 2228:Lunar diurnal 2225: 2224: 2219: 2216: 2213: 2210: 2207: 2204: 2201: 2198: 2196: 2194: 2191: 2188: 2185: 2182: 2179: 2174: 2172:Lunar diurnal 2168: 2167: 2162: 2159: 2156: 2153: 2150: 2147: 2144: 2141: 2139: 2137: 2134: 2131: 2128: 2125: 2122: 2117: 2115:Lunar diurnal 2111: 2110: 2107: 2104: 2101: 2098: 2095: 2092: 2084: 2079: 2071: 2066: 2058: 2053: 2045: 2039: 2038: 2033: 2030: 2025: 2022: 2017: 2012: 2007: 2000: 1997: 1994: 1993: 1990: 1987: 1984: 1981: 1978: 1975: 1972: 1969: 1967: 1965: 1962: 1959: 1956: 1953: 1950: 1945: 1941: 1940: 1937: 1934: 1931: 1928: 1925: 1922: 1919: 1916: 1913: 1911: 1908: 1905: 1902: 1899: 1896: 1891: 1887: 1886: 1883: 1881: 1879: 1877: 1875: 1873: 1870: 1867: 1865: 1862: 1859: 1856: 1853: 1850: 1847: 1841: 1837: 1836: 1833: 1830: 1827: 1824: 1822: 1820: 1817: 1814: 1812: 1809: 1806: 1803: 1800: 1797: 1794: 1789: 1785: 1784: 1781: 1778: 1775: 1772: 1769: 1766: 1763: 1760: 1758: 1755: 1752: 1749: 1746: 1743: 1740: 1735: 1731: 1730: 1727: 1724: 1721: 1718: 1715: 1713: 1710: 1707: 1704: 1701: 1698: 1695: 1692: 1689: 1686: 1681: 1677: 1676: 1673: 1670: 1667: 1664: 1661: 1658: 1655: 1652: 1649: 1647: 1644: 1641: 1638: 1635: 1632: 1626: 1622: 1621: 1618: 1615: 1612: 1609: 1606: 1603: 1600: 1597: 1595: 1592: 1589: 1586: 1583: 1580: 1577: 1572: 1568: 1567: 1564: 1561: 1558: 1555: 1552: 1549: 1546: 1543: 1540: 1537: 1534: 1531: 1528: 1525: 1522: 1517: 1513: 1512: 1507: 1504: 1501: 1498: 1495: 1492: 1489: 1486: 1483: 1481: 1478: 1475: 1472: 1469: 1466: 1461: 1455: 1454: 1449: 1446: 1443: 1440: 1437: 1434: 1431: 1428: 1426: 1423: 1420: 1417: 1414: 1411: 1408: 1403: 1397: 1396: 1391: 1388: 1385: 1382: 1379: 1376: 1373: 1370: 1368: 1366: 1364: 1361: 1358: 1355: 1352: 1347: 1341: 1340: 1337: 1334: 1331: 1328: 1325: 1322: 1314: 1309: 1301: 1296: 1288: 1283: 1275: 1269: 1268: 1263: 1260: 1255: 1252: 1247: 1242: 1237: 1230: 1227: 1215:Kodiak, Alaska 1176: 1173: 1105: 1102: 1100: 1097: 1051: 1050: 1035: 1032: 1029: 1025: 1021: 1018: 1015: 1012: 1008: 1001: 998: 994: 987: 984: 979: 976: 973: 970: 967: 964: 961: 958: 954: 951: 948: 946: 941: 938: 933: 930: 924: 923: 914: 911: 908: 904: 900: 897: 894: 891: 887: 880: 877: 873: 865: 862: 859: 856: 853: 850: 846: 841: 838: 835: 832: 829: 826: 823: 820: 816: 813: 810: 808: 803: 800: 795: 792: 786: 785: 782: 779: 776: 772: 767: 763: 760: 757: 754: 751: 748: 745: 741: 734: 731: 727: 722: 719: 716: 713: 710: 704: 701: 697: 691: 684: 681: 678: 675: 672: 669: 665: 660: 657: 655: 650: 647: 642: 639: 633: 632: 577:fluid dynamics 544: 537: 536: 528: 521: 520: 519: 518: 517: 515: 512: 467: 466:Dynamic theory 464: 424:René Descartes 371: 368: 316:Venerable Bede 311: 308: 247:De Providentia 222:in 325 BC and 201:heat expansion 172: 169: 152: 149: 147: 144: 103: 102: 47:full citations 31: 29: 22: 15: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 6985: 6974: 6971: 6969: 6966: 6964: 6961: 6959: 6956: 6954: 6951: 6949: 6946: 6944: 6941: 6940: 6938: 6923: 6918: 6913: 6911: 6903: 6901: 6893: 6892: 6889: 6883: 6880: 6878: 6875: 6873: 6870: 6868: 6865: 6863: 6860: 6858: 6855: 6853: 6850: 6848: 6845: 6843: 6840: 6838: 6835: 6831: 6828: 6827: 6826: 6823: 6821: 6818: 6816: 6813: 6811: 6808: 6806: 6803: 6801: 6798: 6796: 6793: 6791: 6788: 6786: 6783: 6781: 6778: 6776: 6773: 6771: 6770:Marine energy 6768: 6766: 6763: 6761: 6760: 6755: 6753: 6750: 6748: 6745: 6743: 6740: 6738: 6737:Acidification 6735: 6734: 6732: 6728: 6722: 6719: 6717: 6714: 6712: 6709: 6708: 6706: 6702: 6696: 6693: 6691: 6690:SOFAR channel 6688: 6686: 6683: 6681: 6678: 6676: 6673: 6672: 6670: 6668: 6664: 6658: 6655: 6653: 6650: 6648: 6645: 6643: 6640: 6638: 6635: 6633: 6630: 6628: 6625: 6624: 6622: 6620: 6616: 6610: 6607: 6605: 6602: 6600: 6597: 6595: 6592: 6590: 6587: 6585: 6582: 6580: 6577: 6575: 6572: 6570: 6567: 6565: 6562: 6561: 6559: 6555: 6549: 6546: 6544: 6541: 6539: 6536: 6534: 6531: 6529: 6526: 6524: 6521: 6519: 6516: 6514: 6511: 6509: 6506: 6504: 6501: 6499: 6498:Oceanic crust 6496: 6494: 6491: 6489: 6486: 6484: 6481: 6479: 6476: 6474: 6473:Fracture zone 6471: 6469: 6466: 6464: 6461: 6460: 6458: 6456: 6450: 6444: 6441: 6439: 6436: 6434: 6431: 6429: 6426: 6424: 6421: 6419: 6416: 6414: 6411: 6409: 6408:Oceanic basin 6406: 6404: 6401: 6399: 6396: 6394: 6391: 6389: 6386: 6384: 6381: 6379: 6376: 6374: 6371: 6369: 6366: 6364: 6361: 6359: 6356: 6354: 6351: 6349: 6346: 6344: 6341: 6339: 6338:Abyssal plain 6336: 6334: 6331: 6330: 6328: 6326: 6322: 6316: 6313: 6311: 6308: 6306: 6303: 6301: 6298: 6296: 6293: 6291: 6288: 6286: 6283: 6281: 6278: 6276: 6273: 6271: 6268: 6266: 6263: 6261: 6258: 6256: 6253: 6251: 6248: 6246: 6245:Internal tide 6243: 6241: 6238: 6236: 6233: 6231: 6228: 6227: 6225: 6223: 6219: 6213: 6210: 6208: 6205: 6203: 6200: 6198: 6195: 6191: 6188: 6187: 6186: 6183: 6181: 6178: 6176: 6173: 6171: 6168: 6166: 6163: 6161: 6158: 6156: 6153: 6151: 6148: 6146: 6143: 6141: 6140:Ocean current 6138: 6136: 6133: 6131: 6128: 6126: 6123: 6121: 6118: 6116: 6113: 6111: 6108: 6106: 6103: 6101: 6098: 6096: 6093: 6091: 6088: 6086: 6083: 6081: 6078: 6076: 6073: 6071: 6068: 6066: 6063: 6061: 6058: 6056: 6053: 6051: 6048: 6046: 6043: 6041: 6038: 6036: 6033: 6031: 6028: 6026: 6023: 6022: 6020: 6018: 6014: 6009: 5998: 5986: 5983: 5982: 5981: 5978: 5976: 5973: 5971: 5968: 5964: 5961: 5959: 5956: 5955: 5954: 5951: 5949: 5946: 5944: 5941: 5939: 5938:Wave shoaling 5936: 5934: 5931: 5929: 5926: 5924: 5921: 5919: 5916: 5914: 5911: 5909: 5906: 5904: 5901: 5899: 5898:Ursell number 5896: 5894: 5891: 5887: 5884: 5883: 5882: 5879: 5877: 5874: 5872: 5869: 5867: 5864: 5862: 5859: 5857: 5854: 5852: 5849: 5847: 5844: 5842: 5839: 5837: 5834: 5832: 5829: 5827: 5824: 5822: 5819: 5817: 5814: 5812: 5809: 5807: 5804: 5802: 5799: 5797: 5794: 5792: 5789: 5787: 5784: 5782: 5781:Internal wave 5779: 5777: 5774: 5772: 5769: 5767: 5764: 5762: 5759: 5757: 5754: 5752: 5749: 5747: 5744: 5742: 5739: 5737: 5734: 5732: 5731:Breaking wave 5729: 5727: 5724: 5722: 5719: 5717: 5714: 5712: 5709: 5708: 5706: 5704: 5700: 5696: 5689: 5684: 5682: 5677: 5675: 5670: 5669: 5666: 5662: 5656: 5653: 5651: 5648: 5646: 5643: 5641: 5638: 5637: 5636: 5633: 5631: 5628: 5626: 5623: 5621: 5617: 5614: 5611: 5610: 5597: 5588: 5584: 5580: 5576: 5572: 5568: 5564: 5560: 5553: 5551: 5534: 5527: 5518: 5508: 5500: 5498:9780521797467 5494: 5490: 5489: 5481: 5470: 5464: 5456: 5452: 5446: 5430: 5426: 5420: 5414: 5409: 5393: 5389: 5383: 5375: 5369: 5353: 5347: 5339: 5333: 5317: 5310: 5304: 5300: 5294: 5288: 5283: 5277: 5272: 5256: 5252: 5246: 5230: 5226: 5220: 5205: 5203:9780521797467 5199: 5195: 5194: 5186: 5170: 5166: 5160: 5152: 5148: 5144: 5140: 5136: 5129: 5121: 5117: 5113: 5109: 5105: 5101: 5097: 5093: 5089: 5085: 5084: 5076: 5068: 5061: 5053: 5046: 5030: 5026: 5019: 5012: 5008: 5003: 5001: 4992: 4988: 4984: 4980: 4976: 4972: 4968: 4964: 4960: 4953: 4938: 4934: 4927: 4925: 4917: 4911: 4905: 4901: 4897: 4891: 4884: 4878: 4871: 4866: 4858: 4846: 4838: 4832: 4828: 4821: 4819: 4817: 4815: 4808: 4803: 4788: 4781: 4774: 4766: 4760: 4756: 4753:Bede (2004). 4749: 4741: 4737: 4733: 4729: 4725: 4721: 4717: 4713: 4709: 4703: 4696: 4695:88-07-10349-4 4692: 4688: 4684: 4679: 4664: 4660: 4656: 4652: 4648: 4644: 4640: 4636: 4632: 4625: 4623: 4615: 4614: 4609: 4604: 4589: 4587:9780521797467 4583: 4579: 4578: 4570: 4562: 4561: 4553: 4551: 4549: 4547: 4535: 4529: 4527: 4511: 4505: 4498: 4497: 4489: 4487: 4485: 4477:(3): 209–222. 4476: 4472: 4468: 4461: 4459: 4457: 4455: 4453: 4451: 4435: 4431: 4427: 4423: 4419: 4412: 4410: 4408: 4406: 4404: 4402: 4393: 4386: 4371: 4367: 4361: 4357: 4344: 4339: 4332: 4331: 4325: 4318: 4312: 4305: 4301: 4291: 4288: 4286: 4283: 4281: 4278: 4276: 4273: 4272: 4266: 4255: 4237: 4230: 4215: 4208: 4192: 4189: 4181: 4166: 4159: 4158: 4157: 4143: 4123: 4102: 4099: 4078: 4050: 4047: 4043: 4040: 4037: 4034: 4028: 4023: 4019: 3996: 3992: 3988: 3983: 3979: 3971: 3968: 3946: 3940: 3936: 3933: 3929: 3924: 3920: 3912: 3894: 3891: 3888: 3882: 3879: 3876: 3871: 3867: 3859: 3841: 3838: 3835: 3829: 3826: 3823: 3818: 3814: 3806: 3785: 3782: 3776: 3773: 3770: 3765: 3761: 3753: 3735: 3732: 3729: 3726: 3721: 3717: 3710: 3707: 3704: 3699: 3695: 3687: 3686: 3685: 3682: 3679: 3675: 3660: 3658: 3655: 3652: 3650: 3648: 3645: 3642: 3640: 3637: 3634: 3631: 3628: 3625: 3620: 3617: 3614: 3613: 3609: 3607: 3605: 3603: 3601: 3598: 3595: 3592: 3590: 3588: 3586: 3583: 3580: 3577: 3572: 3569: 3566: 3565: 3561: 3559: 3556: 3553: 3551: 3549: 3546: 3543: 3541: 3539: 3536: 3533: 3530: 3527: 3522: 3518: 3515: 3514: 3510: 3508: 3505: 3503: 3501: 3499: 3497: 3494: 3492: 3490: 3488: 3485: 3482: 3479: 3474: 3471: 3468: 3467: 3463: 3461: 3459: 3457: 3455: 3452: 3450: 3447: 3445: 3442: 3439: 3436: 3433: 3430: 3425: 3422: 3419: 3418: 3415: 3412: 3410: 3407: 3404: 3402: 3400: 3397: 3394: 3391: 3389: 3386: 3383: 3380: 3377: 3372: 3369: 3367: 3364: 3363: 3360: 3357: 3355: 3353: 3351: 3349: 3346: 3344: 3341: 3339: 3336: 3333: 3330: 3327: 3324: 3319: 3316: 3314: 3311: 3310: 3307: 3304: 3302: 3299: 3296: 3294: 3292: 3290: 3287: 3285: 3283: 3280: 3277: 3274: 3271: 3266: 3263: 3261: 3258: 3257: 3254: 3251: 3249: 3247: 3244: 3242: 3239: 3236: 3233: 3231: 3229: 3227: 3224: 3221: 3218: 3213: 3210: 3208: 3205: 3204: 3201: 3198: 3196: 3193: 3190: 3188: 3185: 3182: 3179: 3177: 3175: 3173: 3170: 3167: 3164: 3159: 3156: 3154: 3151: 3150: 3146: 3143: 3140: 3137: 3134: 3131: 3128: 3121: 3118: 3115: 3108: 3105: 3102: 3095: 3092: 3089: 3082: 3079: 3078: 3042: 3029: 3026: 3024: 3021: 3018: 3016: 3014: 3011: 3009: 3007: 3004: 3001: 2998: 2996:13.660830779 2993: 2988: 2985: 2982: 2981: 2977: 2975: 2973: 2970: 2968: 2966: 2964: 2961: 2959: 2956: 2953: 2950: 2947: 2945:14.765294442 2942: 2937: 2934: 2931: 2930: 2926: 2923: 2920: 2917: 2914: 2912: 2910: 2907: 2905: 2902: 2900: 2897: 2894: 2889: 2884: 2881: 2879:Solar annual 2878: 2877: 2873: 2871: 2868: 2865: 2862: 2860: 2857: 2854: 2852: 2849: 2847: 2844: 2841: 2836: 2831: 2828: 2825: 2824: 2820: 2818: 2816: 2813: 2810: 2808: 2806: 2803: 2800: 2798: 2795: 2792: 2789: 2787:27.554631896 2784: 2779: 2776: 2773: 2772: 2768: 2765: 2762: 2759: 2756: 2753: 2750: 2743: 2740: 2737: 2730: 2727: 2724: 2717: 2714: 2711: 2704: 2701: 2700: 2662: 2649: 2646: 2643: 2640: 2637: 2634: 2631: 2628: 2626: 2623: 2620: 2617: 2614: 2611: 2606: 2603: 2600: 2599: 2595: 2592: 2589: 2586: 2583: 2580: 2577: 2574: 2571: 2569: 2566: 2563: 2560: 2557: 2552: 2548: 2545: 2544: 2540: 2537: 2534: 2531: 2528: 2525: 2522: 2519: 2516: 2514: 2511: 2508: 2505: 2502: 2497: 2494: 2491: 2490: 2486: 2483: 2480: 2477: 2474: 2471: 2468: 2465: 2462: 2459: 2456: 2453: 2450: 2447: 2445: 2442: 2439: 2438: 2434: 2431: 2428: 2425: 2422: 2419: 2416: 2413: 2410: 2408: 2405: 2402: 2399: 2396: 2391: 2388: 2385: 2384: 2380: 2377: 2374: 2371: 2368: 2365: 2362: 2359: 2357: 2355: 2353: 2350: 2347: 2344: 2339: 2336: 2333: 2332: 2328: 2325: 2322: 2319: 2316: 2314: 2311: 2308: 2306: 2303: 2300: 2297: 2294: 2291: 2286: 2283: 2280: 2279: 2275: 2272: 2269: 2266: 2263: 2260: 2257: 2254: 2252: 2250: 2247: 2244: 2241: 2238: 2233: 2230: 2227: 2226: 2223: 2220: 2217: 2214: 2211: 2208: 2205: 2202: 2199: 2197: 2195: 2192: 2189: 2186: 2183: 2178: 2175: 2173: 2170: 2169: 2166: 2163: 2160: 2157: 2154: 2151: 2148: 2145: 2142: 2140: 2138: 2135: 2132: 2129: 2126: 2121: 2118: 2116: 2113: 2112: 2108: 2105: 2102: 2099: 2096: 2093: 2090: 2083: 2080: 2077: 2070: 2067: 2064: 2057: 2054: 2051: 2044: 2041: 2040: 2004: 1991: 1988: 1985: 1982: 1979: 1976: 1973: 1970: 1968: 1966: 1963: 1960: 1957: 1954: 1949: 1946: 1943: 1942: 1938: 1935: 1932: 1929: 1926: 1923: 1920: 1917: 1914: 1912: 1909: 1906: 1903: 1900: 1895: 1892: 1889: 1888: 1884: 1882: 1880: 1878: 1876: 1874: 1871: 1868: 1866: 1863: 1860: 1857: 1854: 1851: 1846: 1842: 1839: 1838: 1834: 1831: 1828: 1825: 1823: 1821: 1818: 1815: 1813: 1810: 1807: 1804: 1801: 1798: 1793: 1790: 1787: 1786: 1782: 1779: 1776: 1773: 1770: 1767: 1764: 1761: 1759: 1756: 1753: 1750: 1747: 1744: 1739: 1736: 1733: 1732: 1728: 1725: 1722: 1719: 1716: 1714: 1711: 1708: 1705: 1702: 1699: 1696: 1693: 1690: 1685: 1682: 1679: 1678: 1674: 1671: 1668: 1665: 1662: 1659: 1656: 1653: 1650: 1648: 1645: 1642: 1639: 1636: 1631: 1627: 1624: 1623: 1619: 1616: 1613: 1610: 1607: 1604: 1601: 1598: 1596: 1593: 1590: 1587: 1584: 1581: 1576: 1573: 1570: 1569: 1565: 1562: 1559: 1556: 1553: 1550: 1547: 1544: 1541: 1538: 1535: 1532: 1529: 1526: 1521: 1518: 1515: 1514: 1511: 1508: 1505: 1502: 1499: 1496: 1493: 1490: 1487: 1484: 1482: 1479: 1476: 1473: 1470: 1465: 1462: 1460: 1457: 1456: 1453: 1450: 1447: 1444: 1441: 1438: 1435: 1432: 1429: 1427: 1424: 1421: 1418: 1415: 1412: 1407: 1404: 1402: 1399: 1398: 1395: 1392: 1389: 1386: 1383: 1380: 1377: 1374: 1371: 1369: 1367: 1365: 1362: 1359: 1356: 1351: 1348: 1346: 1343: 1342: 1338: 1335: 1332: 1329: 1326: 1323: 1320: 1313: 1310: 1307: 1300: 1297: 1294: 1287: 1284: 1281: 1274: 1271: 1270: 1234: 1226: 1224: 1220: 1216: 1212: 1208: 1204: 1200: 1196: 1187: 1182: 1172: 1170: 1166: 1160: 1158: 1154: 1150: 1146: 1141: 1139: 1138:George Darwin 1135: 1131: 1127: 1119: 1115: 1110: 1096: 1094: 1090: 1086: 1082: 1080: 1076: 1072: 1068: 1064: 1060: 1056: 1033: 1030: 1027: 1023: 1019: 1016: 1013: 1010: 1006: 999: 985: 982: 977: 971: 965: 962: 956: 952: 949: 947: 939: 931: 912: 909: 906: 902: 898: 895: 892: 889: 885: 878: 860: 854: 851: 848: 844: 839: 833: 827: 824: 818: 814: 811: 809: 801: 793: 780: 777: 774: 770: 765: 758: 752: 749: 746: 743: 739: 732: 720: 714: 711: 702: 689: 679: 673: 670: 667: 663: 658: 656: 648: 640: 623: 622: 621: 619: 615: 612: 608: 605: 601: 597: 593: 589: 584: 582: 578: 574: 570: 566: 562: 551: 547: 541: 531: 525: 511: 509: 505: 500: 495: 493: 489: 485: 481: 477: 473: 463: 461: 457: 453: 452: 447: 439: 435: 433: 429: 425: 421: 419: 414: 410: 406: 402: 400: 395: 390: 388: 384: 380: 376: 367: 364: 360: 356: 352: 348: 343: 341: 340: 339:Divine Comedy 335: 331: 330:rule-of-thumb 326: 323: 322: 317: 307: 305: 304: 299: 295: 291: 287: 283: 279: 277: 273: 269: 265: 261: 257: 253: 249: 248: 243: 239: 235: 231: 230: 225: 221: 217: 213: 209: 204: 202: 198: 194: 190: 186: 182: 178: 171:Classical era 168: 166: 162: 158: 157:Yolngu people 143: 141: 137: 133: 129: 125: 121: 114: 109: 99: 96: 88: 76: 75:documentation 72: 65: 64:documentation 61: 56: 52: 48: 43: 41: 37: 32:This article 30: 21: 20: 6953:Oceanography 6877:Water column 6825:Oceanography 6800:Observations 6795:Explorations 6765:Marginal sea 6758: 6716:OSTM/Jason-2 6548:Volcanic arc 6523:Slab suction 6274: 6240:Head of tide 6130:Loop Current 6070:Ekman spiral 5856:Stokes drift 5766:Gravity wave 5741:Cnoidal wave 5661: 5596: 5562: 5558: 5537:. Retrieved 5526: 5517: 5507: 5487: 5480: 5463: 5455:the original 5445: 5433:. Retrieved 5429:the original 5419: 5408: 5398:14 September 5396:. Retrieved 5392:the original 5382: 5368: 5356:. Retrieved 5346: 5332: 5320:. Retrieved 5309: 5298: 5293: 5282: 5271: 5259:. Retrieved 5255:the original 5245: 5233:. Retrieved 5229:the original 5219: 5207:. Retrieved 5192: 5185: 5173:. Retrieved 5169:the original 5159: 5142: 5138: 5128: 5087: 5081: 5075: 5066: 5060: 5051: 5045: 5033:. Retrieved 5028: 5018: 4966: 4962: 4952: 4940:. Retrieved 4936: 4915: 4910: 4904:From page 5: 4899: 4895: 4890: 4877: 4865: 4826: 4802: 4790:. Retrieved 4786: 4773: 4754: 4748: 4715: 4711: 4702: 4686: 4678: 4666:. Retrieved 4638: 4634: 4616:, section IV 4611: 4603: 4591:. Retrieved 4576: 4569: 4559: 4513:. Retrieved 4495: 4474: 4470: 4437:. Retrieved 4425: 4421: 4391: 4385: 4373:. Retrieved 4369: 4360: 4342: 4338: 4328:The Life of 4327: 4324:Philostratus 4317: 4304: 4256: 4253: 4070: 3683: 3677: 3673: 3671: 3626:6.103339275 3618: 3581:115.9364166 3578:3.105150301 3570: 3520: 3480:8.280400802 3472: 3423: 3413: 3378:6.269173724 3370: 3365: 3358: 3317: 3312: 3305: 3272:8.177140247 3264: 3259: 3252: 3219:4.140200401 3211: 3206: 3199: 3165:6.210300601 3157: 3152: 3126: 3119: 3113: 3106: 3100: 3093: 3087: 3080: 3037:Short period 2986: 2935: 2882: 2829: 2777: 2748: 2741: 2735: 2728: 2722: 2715: 2709: 2702: 2612:24.06588766 2604: 2558:28.00621204 2550: 2495: 2448:26.72305326 2443: 2397:23.09848146 2389: 2345:24.84120241 2337: 2284: 2239:22.30608083 2231: 2221: 2184:25.81933871 2176: 2171: 2164: 2127:23.93447213 2119: 2114: 2088: 2081: 2075: 2068: 2062: 2055: 2049: 2042: 1955:11.96723606 1947: 1901:12.19162085 1893: 1852:11.60695157 1844: 1799:11.98359564 1791: 1745:12.01644934 1737: 1691:12.22177348 1683: 1637:12.90537297 1629: 1574: 1571:Variational 1527:12.62600509 1519: 1509: 1471:12.65834751 1463: 1458: 1451: 1405: 1400: 1393: 1349: 1344: 1318: 1311: 1305: 1298: 1292: 1285: 1279: 1272: 1229:Semi-diurnal 1223:Hilo, Hawaii 1192: 1161: 1149:lunar theory 1145:A.T. Doodson 1142: 1122: 1083: 1074: 1070: 1062: 1054: 1052: 617: 613: 606: 599: 595: 591: 587: 585: 558: 549: 545: 529: 501: 496: 475: 469: 449: 444: 422: 417: 397: 391: 378: 377:in his 1608 375:Simon Stevin 373: 358: 344: 337: 327: 319: 313: 301: 298:Philostratus 280: 276:heliocentric 263: 252:Eratosthenes 245: 244:mentions in 228: 205: 174: 154: 119: 117: 113:Bay of Fundy 91: 82: 71:Citation bot 33: 6867:Thermocline 6584:Mesopelagic 6557:Ocean zones 6528:Slab window 6393:Hydrography 6333:Abyssal fan 6300:Tidal range 6290:Tidal power 6285:Tidal force 6170:Rip current 6105:Gulf Stream 6065:Ekman layer 6055:Downwelling 6030:Baroclinity 6017:Circulation 5913:Wave height 5903:Wave action 5886:megatsunami 5866:Stokes wave 5826:Rossby wave 5791:Kelvin wave 5771:Green's law 5209:28 December 5175:28 December 5090:(1): 1–22. 5035:19 February 4942:27 December 4881:Palmerino, 4853:|work= 4792:27 December 4683:Lucio Russo 4668:27 December 4593:28 December 4515:27 December 4439:27 December 4428:: 770–777. 4285:Kelvin wave 3629:58.9841042 3531:42.9271398 3528:8.38630265 3483:43.4761563 3381:57.4238337 3275:44.0251729 3222:86.9523127 3168:57.9682084 2994:327.8599387 2943:354.3670666 2837:4383.076325 2785:661.3111655 2657:Long period 2615:14.9589314 2561:12.8542862 2506:13.3986609 2451:13.4715145 2400:15.5854433 2348:14.4920521 2242:16.1391017 2187:13.9430356 2130:15.0410686 1958:30.0821373 1904:29.5284789 1855:31.0158958 1802:30.0410667 1748:29.9589333 1694:29.4556253 1640:27.8953548 1585:27.9682084 1582:12.8717576 1530:28.5125831 1474:28.4397295 1360:28.9841042 1357:12.4206012 492:amphidromic 456:tidal force 294:Dicaearchus 264:Tetrabiblos 161:Arnhem Land 85:August 2022 6948:Geophysics 6937:Categories 6805:Reanalysis 6704:Satellites 6685:Sofar bomb 6533:Subduction 6508:Ridge push 6403:Ocean bank 6383:Contourite 6310:Tide gauge 6295:Tidal race 6280:Tidal bore 6270:Slack tide 6235:Earth tide 6155:Ocean gyre 5975:Wind setup 5970:Wind fetch 5933:Wave setup 5928:Wave radar 5923:Wave power 5821:Rogue wave 5751:Dispersion 4509:047191505X 4353:References 4290:Tide table 2999:1.0980331 2948:1.0158958 2895:0.0410686 2890:8766.15265 2842:0.0821373 2790:0.5443747 2503:26.868350 1221:(CA), and 1153:E.W. Brown 565:barotropic 460:bathymetry 370:Modern era 363:al-Bitruji 286:Heraclides 238:Posidonius 181:whirlpools 51:verifiable 6667:Acoustics 6619:Sea level 6518:Slab pull 6455:tectonics 6363:Cold seep 6325:Landforms 6202:Whirlpool 6197:Upwelling 5980:Wind wave 5908:Wave base 5836:Sea state 5756:Edge wave 5746:Cross sea 5587:126219362 4991:126889093 4855:ignored ( 4845:cite book 4740:222087224 4375:8 October 4044:− 4038:− 3980:β 3950:Ω 3947:− 3921:β 3892:− 3868:β 3839:− 3815:β 3789:Ω 3762:β 3733:− 3730:π 3718:θ 3708:τ 3696:β 1093:vorticity 1079:potential 1014:ζ 1000:φ 997:∂ 993:∂ 972:φ 966:⁡ 960:Ω 937:∂ 929:∂ 893:ζ 879:λ 876:∂ 872:∂ 861:φ 855:⁡ 834:φ 828:⁡ 822:Ω 812:− 799:∂ 791:∂ 759:φ 753:⁡ 733:φ 730:∂ 726:∂ 703:λ 700:∂ 696:∂ 680:φ 674:⁡ 646:∂ 641:ζ 638:∂ 611:longitude 488:resonance 451:Principia 448:, in the 392:In 1616, 357:, in his 328:Medieval 282:Aristotle 268:astrology 36:bare URLs 6900:Category 6852:Seawater 6579:Littoral 6574:Deep sea 6433:Seamount 6315:Tideline 6260:Rip tide 6190:shutdown 6160:Overflow 5893:Undertow 5736:Clapotis 5616:Archived 5261:31 March 5235:14 April 5120:46174715 5112:17539198 4663:24138749 4269:See also 4193:′ 4103:′ 4051:′ 3937:′ 3643:473.555 3593:855.555 3544:345.555 3495:355.555 3395:445.655 3342:491.555 3288:365.555 3234:655.555 3180:455.555 3065:Doodson 3044:Species 2687:Doodson 2664:Species 2629:163.555 2575:125.755 2520:135.655 2466:137.455 2414:175.455 2360:155.555 2309:164.555 2255:185.555 2200:145.555 2143:165.555 2027:Doodson 2006:Species 1971:275.555 1918:265.455 1869:291.555 1816:274.555 1762:272.555 1709:263.655 1654:235.755 1599:237.555 1545:247.455 1488:245.655 1430:273.555 1372:255.555 1257:Doodson 1236:Species 604:latitude 602:(in the 533:equator. 484:friction 418:Dialogue 387:magnetic 40:link rot 6910:Commons 6780:Mooring 6730:Related 6721:Jason-3 6711:Jason-1 6594:Pelagic 6589:Oceanic 6564:Benthic 5881:Tsunami 5851:Soliton 5567:Bibcode 5316:"Tides" 5092:Bibcode 4971:Bibcode 4720:Bibcode 4643:Bibcode 4430:Bibcode 3067:number 3052:Period 3049:symbol 3047:Darwin 3012:75.555 2962:73.555 2908:56.555 2855:57.555 2804:65.455 2689:number 2676:(days) 2672:Period 2669:symbol 2667:Darwin 2029:number 2014:Period 2011:symbol 2009:Darwin 1999:Diurnal 1259:number 1244:Period 1241:symbol 1239:Darwin 1057:is the 573:gravity 278:model. 260:Ptolemy 163:in the 146:History 6599:Photic 6428:Seabed 5841:Seiche 5585:  5539:22 May 5535:. NOAA 5531:NOAA. 5495:  5435:2 June 5358:2 June 5322:2 June 5200:  5118:  5110:  4989:  4833:  4761:  4738:  4693:  4661:  4608:Seneca 4584:  4506:  4366:"Moon" 3075:order 3059:(°/h) 3057:Speed 2697:order 2681:(°/h) 2679:Speed 2037:order 2021:(°/h) 2019:Speed 1375:268.7 1267:order 1251:(°/h) 1249:Speed 1225:(HI). 1217:(AK), 1213:(PR), 1209:(MS), 1205:(ME), 1053:where 446:Newton 432:aether 396:wrote 242:Seneca 216:Greeks 197:Purana 132:oceans 60:reFill 6943:Tides 6790:Ocean 6759:Alvin 6609:Swash 6453:Plate 6398:Knoll 6388:Guyot 6343:Atoll 6222:Tides 5985:model 5871:Swell 5703:Waves 5583:S2CID 5472:(PDF) 5116:S2CID 5031:. PBS 4987:S2CID 4783:(PDF) 4736:S2CID 4659:JSTOR 4537:(PDF) 4500:(PDF) 4296:Notes 3073:NOAA 2695:NOAA 2644:11.6 2641:12.6 2215:23.0 2212:25.9 2206:16.9 2203:11.9 2161:16.7 2158:36.8 2155:39.8 2149:16.2 2146:15.6 2035:NOAA 1974:11.6 1921:13.5 1548:12.6 1503:12.3 1500:20.1 1491:54.3 1445:13.7 1442:32.5 1433:42.0 1390:23.0 1387:58.0 1384:97.3 1381:15.9 1265:NOAA 508:TOPEX 504:CHAMP 405:Earth 334:Dante 210:(and 185:Plato 128:tidal 34:uses 6757:DSV 6742:Argo 6604:Surf 6060:Eddy 5541:2012 5493:ISBN 5437:2012 5400:2015 5360:2012 5324:2012 5263:2015 5237:2014 5211:2020 5198:ISBN 5177:2020 5108:PMID 5083:Isis 5037:2014 5029:NOVA 4944:2020 4857:help 4831:ISBN 4794:2020 4759:ISBN 4691:ISBN 4670:2020 4595:2020 4582:ISBN 4517:2020 4504:ISBN 4441:2020 4377:2020 4136:and 3656:1.0 3653:0.6 3646:1.8 3599:0.1 3596:0.5 3557:1.4 3554:0.5 3547:0.5 3506:0.5 3453:0.1 3408:0.9 3405:0.3 3398:2.3 3347:0.1 3300:1.9 3297:0.5 3245:1.0 3240:0.1 3237:5.1 3194:2.3 3191:0.9 3186:0.6 3183:6.0 3054:(h) 3027:0.7 3022:2.0 3019:1.4 2971:1.5 2924:4.3 2921:3.8 2918:7.8 2915:5.5 2869:3.9 2866:1.5 2863:2.1 2858:1.6 2814:1.9 2811:0.7 2647:5.1 2638:2.9 2635:5.4 2632:5.2 2593:0.2 2590:0.4 2587:0.7 2584:0.2 2581:0.4 2578:0.3 2538:1.6 2535:4.0 2532:4.7 2529:1.4 2526:3.3 2523:2.0 2484:0.3 2481:0.9 2478:0.9 2475:0.3 2472:0.6 2469:0.3 2432:1.1 2429:1.9 2426:2.3 2423:0.6 2420:1.3 2417:0.9 2378:0.5 2375:1.1 2372:1.4 2369:0.5 2366:1.2 2363:0.6 2326:0.3 2323:0.7 2320:1.2 2317:0.5 2312:1.0 2273:0.7 2270:1.1 2267:1.2 2264:0.4 2261:0.7 2258:0.5 2218:9.2 2209:7.7 2152:9.0 2016:(h) 1989:2.8 1986:4.0 1983:9.0 1980:0.6 1977:0.9 1936:0.5 1933:1.6 1930:2.4 1927:0.5 1924:0.1 1872:0.5 1832:0.1 1829:0.1 1826:0.2 1819:0.9 1780:0.6 1777:0.9 1774:1.9 1771:0.1 1768:0.2 1765:3.7 1726:0.2 1723:0.6 1720:0.7 1717:0.1 1712:5.3 1672:0.6 1669:1.4 1666:2.4 1663:0.5 1660:0.1 1657:6.5 1617:0.8 1614:0.7 1611:2.2 1608:0.5 1605:0.1 1602:2.0 1563:0.9 1560:2.6 1557:3.9 1554:0.8 1551:0.2 1506:4.4 1497:3.7 1494:1.1 1448:9.2 1439:2.1 1436:3.3 1378:3.9 1246:(h) 1089:curl 609:and 598:and 314:The 208:Moon 155:The 138:and 136:Moon 118:The 68:and 5575:doi 5512:67. 5147:doi 5100:doi 4979:doi 4728:doi 4716:500 4651:doi 4333:, V 4011:or 3661:37 3638:−2 3610:36 3562:34 3537:−1 3511:32 3464:12 3443:−6 3434:90 3387:−1 3337:−4 3328:60 3147:HI 3144:CA 3141:AK 3138:PR 3135:MS 3132:ME 3030:24 2978:23 2957:−2 2927:22 2874:21 2821:20 2801:−1 2769:HI 2766:CA 2763:AK 2760:PR 2757:MS 2754:ME 2674:(h) 2650:30 2624:−2 2596:29 2567:−3 2541:26 2512:−2 2487:25 2463:−1 2457:−2 2435:19 2411:−1 2381:18 2329:17 2304:−1 2295:15 2292:24 2276:15 2193:−1 2109:HI 2106:CA 2103:AK 2100:PR 2097:MS 2094:ME 1992:35 1939:33 1915:−1 1885:31 1864:−4 1835:28 1811:−1 1783:27 1757:−3 1729:16 1703:−2 1675:14 1646:−2 1620:13 1591:−2 1566:11 1542:−1 1536:−1 1480:−1 1425:−2 1416:30 1413:12 1339:HI 1336:CA 1333:AK 1330:PR 1327:MS 1324:ME 1151:of 963:sin 918:and 852:cos 825:sin 750:cos 671:cos 290:sun 262:'s 226:'s 212:Sun 142:). 140:Sun 6939:: 5581:. 5573:. 5561:. 5549:^ 5143:11 5141:. 5137:. 5114:. 5106:. 5098:. 5088:98 5086:. 5027:. 5009:: 4999:^ 4985:. 4977:. 4967:87 4965:. 4961:. 4935:. 4923:^ 4849:: 4847:}} 4843:{{ 4813:^ 4785:. 4734:. 4726:. 4714:. 4685:, 4657:. 4649:. 4639:20 4637:. 4633:. 4621:^ 4610:, 4545:^ 4525:^ 4483:^ 4475:14 4473:. 4469:. 4449:^ 4426:60 4424:. 4420:. 4400:^ 4368:. 4326:, 4116:, 4091:, 3635:2 3632:4 3619:MS 3584:8 3534:3 3521:MK 3486:3 3448:* 3440:6 3437:6 3431:4 3414:10 3392:1 3384:4 3371:MN 3334:4 3331:4 3325:6 3281:1 3278:3 3265:MK 3225:6 3171:4 3129:) 3127:mp 3116:) 3103:) 3090:) 3005:2 3002:0 2954:2 2951:0 2936:MS 2903:1 2898:0 2850:2 2845:0 2833:sa 2796:1 2793:0 2751:) 2749:mp 2738:) 2725:) 2712:) 2621:1 2618:1 2572:2 2564:1 2517:1 2509:1 2460:2 2454:1 2406:2 2403:1 2351:1 2301:1 2298:1 2248:3 2245:1 2232:OO 2190:1 2136:1 2133:1 2091:) 2089:mp 2078:) 2065:) 2052:) 1964:2 1961:2 1910:1 1907:2 1861:4 1858:2 1845:SM 1808:2 1805:2 1754:2 1751:2 1706:1 1700:1 1697:2 1651:2 1643:2 1594:2 1588:2 1539:2 1533:2 1485:1 1477:2 1422:2 1419:2 1363:2 1321:) 1319:mp 1308:) 1295:) 1282:) 1081:. 620:: 583:. 546:B. 530:A. 486:, 462:. 420:. 342:. 270:. 5687:e 5680:t 5673:v 5589:. 5577:: 5569:: 5563:4 5543:. 5501:. 5474:. 5439:. 5402:. 5362:. 5340:. 5326:. 5265:. 5239:. 5213:. 5179:. 5153:. 5149:: 5122:. 5102:: 5094:: 5039:. 4993:. 4981:: 4973:: 4946:. 4859:) 4839:. 4796:. 4767:. 4742:. 4730:: 4722:: 4697:. 4672:. 4653:: 4645:: 4597:. 4519:. 4443:. 4432:: 4379:. 4263:2 4259:2 4238:D 4216:F 4190:l 4167:l 4144:D 4124:F 4100:l 4079:l 4055:) 4048:l 4041:D 4035:s 4032:( 4029:= 4024:s 4020:p 3997:l 3993:p 3989:= 3984:6 3953:) 3944:( 3941:= 3934:N 3930:= 3925:5 3898:) 3895:l 3889:s 3886:( 3883:= 3880:p 3877:= 3872:4 3845:) 3842:D 3836:s 3833:( 3830:= 3827:h 3824:= 3819:3 3792:) 3786:+ 3783:F 3780:( 3777:= 3774:s 3771:= 3766:2 3739:) 3736:s 3727:+ 3722:M 3714:( 3711:= 3705:= 3700:1 3622:4 3574:8 3571:M 3524:3 3519:2 3476:3 3473:M 3427:6 3424:S 3374:4 3359:9 3321:4 3318:S 3306:8 3268:3 3253:7 3215:6 3212:M 3200:5 3161:4 3158:M 3125:( 3123:4 3120:n 3114:y 3112:( 3110:3 3107:n 3101:m 3099:( 3097:2 3094:n 3088:L 3086:( 3084:1 3081:n 2990:f 2987:M 2939:f 2886:a 2883:S 2830:S 2781:m 2778:M 2747:( 2745:4 2742:n 2736:y 2734:( 2732:3 2729:n 2723:m 2721:( 2719:2 2716:n 2710:L 2708:( 2706:1 2703:n 2608:1 2605:P 2554:1 2551:Q 2549:2 2499:1 2496:Q 2444:ρ 2393:1 2390:J 2341:1 2338:M 2288:1 2285:S 2235:1 2222:6 2180:1 2177:O 2165:4 2123:1 2120:K 2087:( 2085:4 2082:n 2076:y 2074:( 2072:3 2069:n 2063:m 2061:( 2059:2 2056:n 2050:L 2048:( 2046:1 2043:n 1951:2 1948:K 1897:2 1894:L 1848:2 1843:2 1795:2 1792:R 1741:2 1738:T 1687:2 1684:λ 1633:2 1630:N 1628:2 1578:2 1575:μ 1523:2 1520:ν 1510:3 1467:2 1464:N 1452:2 1409:2 1406:S 1394:1 1353:2 1350:M 1317:( 1315:4 1312:n 1306:y 1304:( 1302:3 1299:n 1293:m 1291:( 1289:2 1286:n 1280:L 1278:( 1276:1 1273:n 1075:U 1071:a 1063:g 1055:Ω 1034:, 1031:0 1028:= 1024:) 1020:U 1017:+ 1011:g 1007:( 986:a 983:1 978:+ 975:) 969:( 957:2 953:u 950:+ 940:t 932:v 913:, 910:0 907:= 903:) 899:U 896:+ 890:g 886:( 864:) 858:( 849:a 845:1 840:+ 837:) 831:( 819:2 815:v 802:t 794:u 781:, 778:0 775:= 771:] 766:) 762:) 756:( 747:D 744:v 740:( 721:+ 718:) 715:D 712:u 709:( 690:[ 683:) 677:( 668:a 664:1 659:+ 649:t 614:λ 607:φ 600:v 596:u 592:ζ 588:D 550:A 401:. 98:) 92:( 87:) 83:( 79:. 77:) 73:( 66:) 62:( 42:.

Index

bare URLs
link rot
full citations
verifiable
Several templates
reFill
documentation
Citation bot
documentation
Learn how and when to remove this message

Bay of Fundy
continuum mechanics
tidal
oceans
Moon
Sun
Yolngu people
Arnhem Land
Northern Territory
Mediterranean Sea
whirlpools
Plato
Crates of Mallus
Apollodorus of Corcyra
Purana
heat expansion
Moon
Sun
Greeks

Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.