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of the fabric to the other. Holding the ends of a waste yarn and the working yarn, make an overhand knot. Place a needle held in the left hand between the two yarns, with the knot below, the waste yarn held underneath and parallel to the needle out to the right, and the working yarn up and in front of the needle. Bring the working yarn down behind the needle and in front of the waste yarn; up behind the waste yarn and over-and-up then down in front of the needle; down behind the waste yarn; then up in front of the needle. Repeat for each two stitches. When the desired number of stitches is reached, loosely fasten the waste yarn and work as usual with the working yarn. To take out the provisional cast-on, unfasten the end of the waste yarn and carefully pull it out, picking up the now loose loops on a needle and working from the opposite direction of previous work.
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right hand. The slipknot counts as the first stitch. Place the thumb and index finger of the left hand between the yarn ends so that the strand connected to the ball is around the index finger and the tail end is around the thumb. Secure the yarn ends with the other fingers and hold the palm upwards, making a V of yarn. Bring the needle in front of the thumb, under both yarns around the thumb, down into the center of the thumb loop, back forward, and over the top of the yarn around the index finger. Use the needle to catch this yarn, then bring the needle back down through the thumb loop, turning the thumb slightly to make room for the needle to pass through. Drop the loop off the thumb and place the thumb back in the V configuration while tightening up the resulting stitch on the needle. Instructions published on
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around both needles, down in front and up in back, until the number of wraps equals half the number of stitches needed. Slide B along, through the wraps, until they sit on the cable, and the ends dangle on either side. Then bring the other, loose, end of A up, and knit into the wraps still on A. Once all those wraps are knitted, pull A until the wraps are on the cable, and pull B so that the tip of the needle holds the wraps, pointed to the end with the working yarn. Bring up the other end of B and knit across the wraps again. This completes one round. From here, continue to work around the stitches on the two circular needles, increasing as desired, or switch to double pointed needles or a single circular needle for the Magic Loop method of knitting circularly.
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157:) is used to secure the base of each loop. The loops will appear like knit stitches. This method is also called the "knit half-hitch cast on". Although popular, this method requires that the knitter estimate the length of the dangling yarn before the stitches are cast on; if the dangling yarn is too short, the knitter will run out of yarn with which to secure the stitches before the full number of stitches have been cast on. In that case, the knitter will have to pull everything out, re-position the
145:. This creates a very stretchy, flexible edge. It is a common approach for adding several stitches to the edge in the middle of a knitted fabric, but it is difficult to knit from and make even. A variation is the twisted simple cast on, where one twists the new loop around the thumb, with the yarn going around the back of the thumb to the front as in the simple cast-on, but picking up the new loop from the backside of the loop. This is tighter and neater but has less elasticity.
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front, over the crochet hook or right needle, pass the slip-knot loop over the wrap, leaving the new loop on the crochet hook or right needle. Repeat, wrapping the yarn over the left-hand needle before passing it over the crochet hook or right needle to make a new loop, until there is one less stitch than required. Place the last loop on the left-hand needle as the first stitch that will be worked. This cast-on creates an edge that mimics a standard bind-off edge.
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start with a slip knot). Hold the needle in the right hand and the yarn in the left, with the long tail pulled around the thumb and hanging in front, and the yarn from the ball around the first or second finger, with the ball tail heading toward the back. Once completed, take the needle under the front of the long tail, picking up a half hitch, then back to the yarn over the finger from the top side of the yarn, pulling the loop through the half hitch formed.
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cast-on, to create the working stitches. To take out the cast-on, simply pull out the tail of the waste yarn at the fastened end and "zip off" the crochet chain. Pick up the now loose loops and work from the opposite direction of previous work. This is done in toe-up socks and shawls or scarves with directional patterns that need to start from a center edge.
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Used for circular beginnings, often for the toes of socks made toe-up. It is invisible (as with the provisional cast-on). Begin with two circular needles held one above the other from above (Upper called A, lower called B). Place a slip-knot on B, and wrap the yarn up behind A. Then begin wrapping it
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Also known as the "German
Twisted cast-on" and similar to the "long-tail cast-on" but uses a longer tail due to a second twist in the thumb loop, giving the cast on edge more stretch than the long-tail cast on. Leaving a tail the necessary length, make a slipknot and place it on a needle held in the
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Also known as an "invisible cast-on," since the waste yarn used can be pulled out later to allow the knitter to continue the knitting in the opposite direction. This cast-on is also the best method for double-knit fabrics, since the knitting has no boundary; the knitting is continuous from one side
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Uses a crochet hook or two knitting needles. To execute, hold a knitting needle in left hand and crochet hook or second knitting needle in right hand. Make a slip-knot in yarn and put it on the crochet hook or right-hand needle. Wrap the yarn from the back of the left-hand needle and over to the
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To execute it, start by figuring out how much yarn is required for the cast-on row, and pull out that amount of yarn. With that, put a slip knot on the needle (this is not absolutely necessary, since the first cast-on stitch will create a slip knot in the process, but it is generally more secure to
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Simply the crochet chain cast-on using waste yarn; this is also an "invisible cast-on" that can be pulled out later to allow knitting in the opposite direction. Work a crochet chain in waste yarn, loosely fastening the tail end. With working yarn, pick up the chain-bumps, as for the crochet chain
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to give a longer tail, and begin anew. Despite this shortcoming, it's a good all-around method for casting on. Another variation for this method is to use two different yarns, one being the main yarn used in the project, and the second being a piece of contrasting waste yarn. One attaches the two
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chain. Once the chain is large enough to equal the number of stitches needed, plus a few extra, turn the chain over so that the bumps that were forming as the yarn was pulled through the hole are visible. Put the knitting needle through those bumps and knit through it as normal. This produces the
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with a slip knot, and then using the waste or contrast yarn as the long tail, starts the row. This is useful if for picking up stitches on the cast-on edge in order to knit in the opposite direction. One can also use it decoratively, making the contrast or waste yarn a part of the pattern design.
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Perhaps the most straightforward method, in which a new loop is drawn through the previous loop and then added to the needle. However, this method is deprecated for giving an untidy edge. It can also be done in a purl version or even a rib
201:
Similar to a long tail cast-on, but using two needles held together. The half-hitch part is formed around the lower needle, while the loop is only wrapped around the upper needle. The second needle is removed before the first
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Involves knitting onto a cast on row knitted in a contrasting yarn with half as many stitches. Each knit stitch into the contrasting stitches is followed by a yarn-over to double the number of stitches. After several rows, a
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Developed by Judy Becker; also known as the "magic toe-up cast-on," due to its popular use in beginning toe-up sock construction. Instructions were first published in an issue of the on-line knitting magazine
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is already secured to the fabric. The original slip knot can be pulled out after a few rows have been knitted without damaging the knitted fabric. It is also possible to cast on using a simple twisted loop.
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Casting on is sometimes done with doubled-up needles or a needle of larger size than for the main pattern; the extra bit of yarn in each stitch makes the edge less tight and gives it more flexibility.
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is a family of techniques for adding new stitches that do not depend on earlier stitches, i.e., having an independent lower edge. In principle, it is the opposite of
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Once one loop has been secured around the needle, or if it is already secured to the fabric, there are several different methods for adding others.
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is formed by knitting together the first and third rows, forming a tube through which elastic can be pulled. A neat edge, nicely suited for 1x1
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A closely related technique, in which a new loop is drawn through the space between the two previous loops and then added to the
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A common method, in which all the loops are made with one yarn, while the other end (the dangling end from the original
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125:. This edge is firm and has a neat, corded look; although it may be too bulky with thick yarns.
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clockwise or counterclockwise as they are added to the needle; this is commonly done for the
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This cast-on can also be done in a purl and a twisted stitch version as well.
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Casting on from one loop (more loops will be added to the top of the needle)
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Popularized by
Elizabeth Zimmermann as "Emily Ocker's Circular Beginning."
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or "backward loop cast-on," which involves adding a series of
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361:. Woodinville, WA: Martingale & Company. pp. 9–25.
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described below to give it a neater, more uniform look.
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Family of knitting techniques for adding new stitches
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332:. New York: Simon and Schuster. pp. 123–148.
72:When casting on at the beginning, one end of the
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50:The cast-on can also be decorated with various
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373:. New York: Dover Publications. p. 141.
340:Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Needlework
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359:The Knitter's Book of Finishing Techniques
350:Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Knitting Book
352:. New York: Sixth and Spring Books. 2002.
371:Elizabeth Zimmermann's Knitter's Almanac
133:An even simpler method, also called the
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438:List of yarns for crochet and knitting
104:Methods for casting on in handknitting
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344:. Reader's Digest Association. 1979.
58:. The cast-on stitches can also be
208:Frequently used in mitten edges ...
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1036:The Knitting Guild Association
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1031:World Wide Knit in Public Day
1016:Revolutionary Knitting Circle
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1118:Knitting methods for shaping
1026:UK Hand Knitting Association
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328:Hiatt, June Hemmons (1988).
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594:Stockinette/Stocking stitch
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357:Wiseman, Nancy M. (2002).
330:The Principles of Knitting
76:is usually secured to the
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872:Complete garment knitting
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305:"How to cast on stitches"
235:Provisional chain cast-on
230:same edge as knitting on.
877:Fully fashioned knitting
1077:Knitting abbreviations
950:Stephanie Pearl-McPhee
897:William Lee (inventor)
225:For this, do a simple
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1052:Basic knitted fabrics
367:Zimmermann, Elizabeth
276:Old Norwegian cast-on
222:Crochet chain cast-on
84:it, typically with a
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975:Elizabeth Zimmermann
800:Three needle bindoff
785:Slip-stitch knitting
705:Drop-stitch knitting
765:Picking up stitches
670:Binding/Casting off
532:Patons and Baldwins
517:Eisaku Noro Company
428:Knitting needle cap
416:Tools and materials
189:Provisional cast-on
760:Medallion knitting
198:Two-needle cast-on
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750:Illusion knitting
282:knittingdaily.com
150:Long tail cast-on
23:Long-tail cast-on
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882:Knitting machine
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680:Brioche knitting
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312:. Retrieved
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92:) since the
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655:Basketweave
558:Continental
512:Coats Group
505:Yarn brands
443:Row counter
45:binding off
1107:Categories
915:Sam Barsky
695:Casting on
685:Buttonhole
643:Techniques
609:Dip stitch
496:Variegated
291:References
259:knitty.com
90:buttonhole
41:casting on
908:designers
851:Fair Isle
805:Thrumming
780:Short row
715:Faggoting
634:Yarn over
573:Norwegian
369:(1981) .
159:slip knot
155:slip knot
86:slip knot
1113:Knitting
1057:Blocking
856:Intarsia
834:Patterns
735:Grafting
710:Entrelac
619:Increase
604:Decrease
587:Stitches
553:Combined
548:Circular
409:Knitting
113:version.
82:knotting
37:knitting
1087:Selvage
1067:History
1062:Dye lot
1045:Related
1011:Ravelry
825:Welting
820:Weaving
775:Ribbing
745:Hemming
563:English
491:Novelty
481:Eyelash
227:crochet
182:ribbing
141:to the
60:twisted
1006:Knitty
996:Knitta
846:Argyle
815:Twined
725:Gather
690:Cables
675:Bobble
599:Garter
541:Styles
476:Bouclé
469:styles
314:31 May
143:needle
123:needle
56:picots
795:Steek
770:Pleat
730:Gauge
202:round
841:Aran
810:Tuck
755:Lace
578:Warp
568:Flat
486:Lopi
467:Yarn
316:2021
178:tuck
94:yarn
74:yarn
80:by
35:In
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