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Ernie's

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that, in 1935, Carlesso and one of his waiters, an immigrant named Ambrogio Gotti, bought the building. The building had been the site of one of the more notorious landmarks of the Barbary Coast, the 'Frisco Dance Hall, and some of its elements remained. Carlesso died in 1946. Gotti retired in 1947, selling his share to his two sons, Roland and Victor, who had been working as busboys. Only 21 and 25 years old when they became sole owners, the two brothers continued in that role for the next 48 years.
117:-like decor, with plush red wallpaper, heavy drapes, white linen and formal waiters in black tuxedos. Writing in 1979, gastronome Roy Andries de Groot called it "unquestionably the most elegant, famous, finest, and luxurious restaurant in San Francisco and is probably among the three or four greatest truly American restaurants in the country" that "can provide dinners of supreme elegance and luxury". 179:
walls covered with maroon Scalamandre silk brocade, the banquettes and chairs in red, the carpets in burgundy, the furniture, antique pieces from some of the great mansions of San Francisco. The ambiance was that loud, supremely elegant in which the wealthiest nabobs of a hundred years ago might have met the grandest ladies of the night.
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that had been known throughout the world since the 1850s for its brothels, saloons, opium dens, gambling and dance halls, and restaurants with discreet private dining rooms upstairs where additional services could be provided. The restaurant serving traditional American-Italian food was so successful
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The first thing they did was to clean up and move the famous long mahogany bar, with its intricate, stained-glass back, to the front of the restaurant. It was the last remaining relic of the 'Frisco Dance Hall. The main dining rooms were decorated with magnificent Victorian crystal chandeliers, the
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In 1993, with new chef Craig Thomas in the kitchen, Zagat was giving it 22 for cuisine and 25 for both decor and service. Although the latter-day Ernie's launched the careers of celebrated local chefs such as Jacky Robert and Alain Rondelli, its efforts to adapt to a changing world were not enough
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Sometime in the late 1940s or early 1950s, the brothers replaced the old red checkerboard tablecloth-type decor with a completely rebuilt interior. The exterior signage was reduced to a single 2 foot square brass plate beside the door with a script "E". The message was clear; they were not looking
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in 1986, "perhaps because Ernie's serves so many tourists they feel they can play-act their way through a meal. In this tricky business climate when expensive formal restaurants are fading in popularity, the owners of Ernie's would do well to reevaluate their attitude toward their customers." By
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By the 1980s, tastes in food and decor had changed, and Ernie's was forced to renovate. The menu was lightened, the red silk wallpaper was replaced by yellow silk, the old bar was moved, and new chefs were hired. The transformation was not completely successful. "Ernie's is a parody of a fine
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was calling Ernie's "a fading North Beach flower reincarnated as a stylish, elegant French restaurant", with only 21 points out of a possible 30 for its cuisine, 22 for its decor and 21 for its service, unimpressive scores for so expensive a restaurant. It noted, however, that "gone are the
371:, "The Finest Regional Dish in America", pages 238–245. De Groot was a Dutch-born gourmet and bon vivant who wrote about food and drink for many years after World War II in a variety of magazines and newspapers as well as writing several books. 120:
When it closed in 1995, it was one of the few remaining restaurants of the kind that had once epitomized the celebrated San Francisco dining scene. Among the others, some even older and nearly as well-known, were the
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There are a number of minor discrepancies between the various sourced references about such details as the exact year the building was purchased, for instance, or when the interior was first redone.
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appeared on the menu along with Chicken in Champagne, and by the early 1960s, Ernie's received the first of 32 consecutive annual five-star awards from the
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area of the city. In the 1950s, it became known as a luxurious restaurant serving mostly traditional French cuisine. The interior had Victorian or
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Ernie's first chef and owner was Ernie Carlesso. At the time it was called Ernie's Il Travatore. Located at 847 Montgomery Street near
1085: 1090: 411:. One of the earliest of the now-famous restaurant guides whose ratings of the restaurants are generated by readers' comments. 1115: 489: 272:
According, at least to De Groot, who is, however, careful to say that Gotti's sons always denied the assertion, page 241
422: 408: 390: 368: 687: 153:, though none ever enjoyed the reputation for decadent, even illicit, pleasures that many of the others purveyed. 911: 888: 843: 921: 174:
for walk-in traffic. Their goal, says De Groot, was to "make it the most beautiful restaurant in the world".
873: 828: 162: 105: 417:, edited by Anthony Dias Blue, Jack R. Weiner, and Eric Wald, Coordinators, Zagat Survey, New York, 1992, 858: 916: 783: 732: 577: 813: 95: 906: 662: 572: 1019: 209: 863: 557: 141:. All are now gone, and only a few vestiges of the 19th century still remain in San Francisco: 122: 692: 627: 308:"Ernie's Restaurant Saying Good-by / It served classic and classy food in S.F. for 61 years" 853: 823: 818: 126: 263:
Some sources give his first name as "Ambrose", the translation from the Italian "Ambrogio"
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Some sources say Gotti had become a full partner of Carlesso in 1934, others say 1939
184: 1034: 999: 994: 562: 527: 194: 403:, edited by Anthony Dias Blue and Edwin J. Schwarz, Zagat Survey, New York, 1988, 110: 1024: 974: 959: 954: 793: 737: 722: 632: 602: 582: 150: 1049: 949: 622: 481: 199: 1054: 385:, by Patrica Unterman and Stan Stesser, Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 1986, 1074: 984: 833: 788: 642: 592: 567: 542: 513: 467: 454: 1039: 1029: 1009: 989: 944: 939: 883: 868: 803: 742: 712: 547: 216: 142: 757: 1014: 979: 778: 637: 612: 431: 1059: 1044: 964: 727: 702: 587: 532: 104:
around the turn of the 20th century. It was located near the notorious
752: 747: 617: 393:, a collection of reviews by the regular restaurant reviewers of the 100: 114: 607: 717: 682: 363:, by Roy Andries de Groot, St. Martin's Press, New York, 1986, 377:
A Collection of the Best Food Writing of Roy Andries de Groot
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Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License
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and, on September 30, 1995, Ernie's closed permanently.
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De Groot, in an unnamed newspaper article reprinted in
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1993 Zagat San Francisco Bay Area Restaurant Survey
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1989 Zagat San Francisco Bay Area Restaurant Survey
1072: 511: 305: 301: 299: 497: 165:, it was on the edge of the Barbary Coast, a 430:This article incorporates material from the 221:bordello-like setting and snooty service". 98:. It began as a modest family-style Italian 296: 504: 490: 425:. Annual update to the earlier-cited book. 1106:American companies disestablished in 1995 1131:Defunct French restaurants in California 289: 287: 306:Steve Rubenstein (September 29, 1995). 1101:American companies established in 1900 1073: 203:featured three scenes set in Ernie's. 16:Former restaurant in San Francisco, CA 485: 284: 1126:1995 disestablishments in California 1111:Defunct restaurants in San Francisco 13: 1096:Restaurants disestablished in 1995 14: 1142: 1121:1900 establishments in California 1081:Italian restaurants in California 1086:French restaurants in California 94:(1900–1995) was a restaurant in 1091:Restaurants established in 1900 889:Washington Square Bar and Grill 438:", which is licensed under the 336: 327: 324:Unterman and Stesser, page 60. 318: 275: 266: 257: 248: 235: 1: 874:San Francisco Brewing Company 844:Masa's Wine Bar & Kitchen 373:In Search of the Perfect Meal 361:In Search of the Perfect Meal 354: 243:In Search of the Perfect Meal 1116:Barbary Coast, San Francisco 383:Restaurants of San Francisco 7: 10: 1147: 829:Joe's Cable Car Restaurant 156: 930: 897: 766: 520: 183:French chefs were hired, 96:San Francisco, California 81: 73: 65: 54: 46: 38: 30: 26: 21: 228: 784:Bernstein's Fish Grotto 733:Tony's Pizza Napoletana 395:San Francisco Chronicle 312:San Francisco Chronicle 210:San Francisco Chronicle 864:Poodle Dog Restaurants 468:37.79698°N 122.40373°W 207:restaurant," said the 181: 123:Poodle Dog Restaurants 693:State Bird Provisions 663:Patxi's Chicago Pizza 254:Some sources say 1934 176: 688:Sons & Daughters 473:37.79698; -122.40373 342:Zagat, 1993, page 42 333:Zagat, 1989, page 42 197:'s classic thriller 464: /  653:The Old Clam House 442:but not under the 293:De Groot, page 242 190:Mobil Travel Guide 167:red light district 1068: 1067: 1005:Thomas McNaughton 970:Traci Des Jardins 824:Jack's Restaurant 799:The Cobweb Palace 708:Swan Oyster Depot 698:The Stinking Rose 598:Greens Restaurant 89: 88: 1138: 1035:Michelle Polzine 1020:Daniel Patterson 1000:George Mardikian 933:in San Francisco 912:Mission District 673:Round House Café 563:Buena Vista Cafe 506: 499: 492: 483: 482: 479: 478: 476: 475: 474: 469: 465: 462: 461: 460: 457: 343: 340: 334: 331: 325: 322: 316: 315: 303: 294: 291: 282: 279: 273: 270: 264: 261: 255: 252: 246: 239: 195:Alfred Hitchcock 58: 33: 19: 18: 1146: 1145: 1141: 1140: 1139: 1137: 1136: 1135: 1071: 1070: 1069: 1064: 1025:Melissa Perello 975:Joyce Goldstein 960:Dominique Crenn 955:Chris Cosentino 932: 926: 922:South of Market 899: 898:Restaurant rows 893: 762: 738:Top of the Mark 723:Teatro ZinZanni 583:Comstock Saloon 516: 512:Restaurants in 510: 472: 470: 466: 463: 458: 455: 453: 451: 450: 357: 347: 346: 341: 337: 332: 328: 323: 319: 304: 297: 292: 285: 280: 276: 271: 267: 262: 258: 253: 249: 240: 236: 231: 159: 56: 31: 17: 12: 11: 5: 1144: 1134: 1133: 1128: 1123: 1118: 1113: 1108: 1103: 1098: 1093: 1088: 1083: 1066: 1065: 1063: 1062: 1057: 1052: 1050:Jeremiah Tower 1047: 1042: 1037: 1032: 1027: 1022: 1017: 1012: 1007: 1002: 997: 992: 987: 982: 977: 972: 967: 962: 957: 952: 950:Cecilia Chiang 947: 942: 936: 934: 928: 927: 925: 924: 919: 914: 909: 903: 901: 895: 894: 892: 891: 886: 881: 876: 871: 866: 861: 859:Pasta Pomodoro 856: 851: 849:Mel's Drive-In 846: 841: 839:Maxwell's Plum 836: 831: 826: 821: 816: 811: 806: 801: 796: 791: 786: 781: 776: 770: 768: 764: 763: 761: 760: 755: 750: 745: 740: 735: 730: 725: 720: 715: 710: 705: 700: 695: 690: 685: 680: 675: 670: 665: 660: 658:Original Joe's 655: 650: 645: 640: 635: 630: 625: 623:Liguria Bakery 620: 615: 610: 605: 600: 595: 590: 585: 580: 575: 570: 565: 560: 555: 550: 545: 540: 535: 530: 524: 522: 518: 517: 509: 508: 501: 494: 486: 427: 426: 412: 398: 380: 356: 353: 352: 351: 345: 344: 335: 326: 317: 295: 283: 274: 265: 256: 247: 233: 232: 230: 227: 185:crêpes Suzette 163:Jackson Square 158: 155: 87: 86: 83: 79: 78: 75: 71: 70: 67: 63: 62: 61:Ernie Carlesso 59: 52: 51: 48: 44: 43: 40: 36: 35: 28: 27: 24: 23: 15: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 1143: 1132: 1129: 1127: 1124: 1122: 1119: 1117: 1114: 1112: 1109: 1107: 1104: 1102: 1099: 1097: 1094: 1092: 1089: 1087: 1084: 1082: 1079: 1078: 1076: 1061: 1058: 1056: 1053: 1051: 1048: 1046: 1043: 1041: 1038: 1036: 1033: 1031: 1028: 1026: 1023: 1021: 1018: 1016: 1013: 1011: 1008: 1006: 1003: 1001: 998: 996: 993: 991: 988: 986: 985:Tanya Holland 983: 981: 978: 976: 973: 971: 968: 966: 963: 961: 958: 956: 953: 951: 948: 946: 943: 941: 938: 937: 935: 929: 923: 920: 918: 915: 913: 910: 908: 905: 904: 902: 900:and districts 896: 890: 887: 885: 882: 880: 877: 875: 872: 870: 867: 865: 862: 860: 857: 855: 852: 850: 847: 845: 842: 840: 837: 835: 834:The Magic Pan 832: 830: 827: 825: 822: 820: 817: 815: 812: 810: 807: 805: 802: 800: 797: 795: 792: 790: 789:Black Cat Bar 787: 785: 782: 780: 777: 775: 772: 771: 769: 765: 759: 756: 754: 751: 749: 746: 744: 741: 739: 736: 734: 731: 729: 726: 724: 721: 719: 716: 714: 711: 709: 706: 704: 701: 699: 696: 694: 691: 689: 686: 684: 681: 679: 676: 674: 671: 669: 666: 664: 661: 659: 656: 654: 651: 649: 646: 644: 641: 639: 636: 634: 631: 629: 626: 624: 621: 619: 616: 614: 611: 609: 606: 604: 601: 599: 596: 594: 593:Extreme Pizza 591: 589: 586: 584: 581: 579: 576: 574: 571: 569: 568:Caffe Trieste 566: 564: 561: 559: 556: 554: 551: 549: 546: 544: 543:Atelier Crenn 541: 539: 536: 534: 531: 529: 526: 525: 523: 519: 515: 514:San Francisco 507: 502: 500: 495: 493: 488: 487: 484: 480: 477: 448: 447: 445: 441: 437: 433: 424: 423:0-943421-79-9 420: 416: 413: 410: 409:0-943421-12-8 406: 402: 399: 396: 392: 391:0-87701-378-0 388: 384: 381: 378: 375:is subtitled 374: 370: 369:0-312-41131-6 366: 362: 359: 358: 349: 348: 339: 330: 321: 313: 309: 302: 300: 290: 288: 278: 269: 260: 251: 244: 238: 234: 226: 222: 219: 218: 212: 211: 204: 202: 201: 196: 192: 191: 186: 180: 175: 171: 168: 164: 154: 152: 148: 144: 140: 136: 132: 128: 124: 118: 116: 113: 112: 111:fin-de-siècle 107: 106:Barbary Coast 103: 102: 97: 93: 85:United States 84: 80: 76: 72: 69:San Francisco 68: 64: 60: 53: 49: 45: 41: 37: 29: 25: 20: 1040:Judy Rodgers 1030:Charles Phan 1010:Michael Mina 990:Melissa King 945:Danny Bowien 940:Mario Batali 869:Rose Pistola 814:Fleur de Lys 808: 804:Doggie Diner 794:Castagnola's 743:Vesuvio Cafe 713:Tadich Grill 633:Mister Jiu's 603:John's Grill 548:Beach Chalet 449: 429: 428: 414: 400: 394: 382: 376: 372: 360: 338: 329: 320: 311: 277: 268: 259: 250: 242: 237: 223: 217:Zagat Survey 215: 208: 205: 198: 188: 182: 177: 172: 160: 151:John's Grill 143:Tadich Grill 135:A. Sabella's 131:The Blue Fox 119: 109: 99: 91: 90: 1055:René Verdon 1015:Nancy Oakes 980:Reed Hearon 931:Noted chefs 917:North Beach 638:Mixt Greens 613:La Taqueria 578:Cliff House 573:Californios 471: / 459:122°24′13″W 432:Citizendium 193:. In 1958, 39:Established 34:information 1075:Categories 1060:Martin Yan 1045:Ron Siegel 965:Gary Danko 728:Tonga Room 703:Sushirrito 643:Molinari's 588:DNA Lounge 533:Acquerello 456:37°47′49″N 355:References 245:, page 241 214:1989, the 77:California 32:Restaurant 995:Corey Lee 907:Chinatown 884:Swensen's 758:Zuni Café 753:Yank Sing 748:Wise Sons 618:Lazy Bear 558:Boulevard 434:article " 101:trattoria 55:Previous 779:Alioto's 628:Mandalay 139:Amelio's 115:bordello 57:owner(s) 854:Paragon 819:In Situ 809:Ernie's 767:Defunct 718:Tartine 521:Current 436:Ernie's 200:Vertigo 157:History 92:Ernie's 82:Country 22:Ernie's 683:Sam Wo 678:Saison 668:Quince 648:Mourad 538:Angler 421:  407:  389:  367:  127:Jack's 47:Closed 879:Stars 774:Aatxe 608:Jū-Ni 229:Notes 147:Sam's 74:State 553:Benu 444:GFDL 419:ISBN 405:ISBN 387:ISBN 365:ISBN 149:and 137:and 66:City 50:1995 42:1900 528:A16 1077:: 310:. 298:^ 286:^ 145:, 133:, 129:, 125:, 505:e 498:t 491:v 446:. 397:. 379:. 314:.

Index

San Francisco, California
trattoria
Barbary Coast
fin-de-siècle
bordello
Poodle Dog Restaurants
Jack's
The Blue Fox
A. Sabella's
Amelio's
Tadich Grill
Sam's
John's Grill
Jackson Square
red light district
crêpes Suzette
Mobil Travel Guide
Alfred Hitchcock
Vertigo
San Francisco Chronicle
Zagat Survey




"Ernie's Restaurant Saying Good-by / It served classic and classy food in S.F. for 61 years"
ISBN
0-312-41131-6
ISBN
0-87701-378-0

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