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picture of her team on the summit, and they are standing on snow." She added that "of the three
Sherpas that climbed with Miss Oh, two have said she did not reach the summit." The latter comment apparently stems from conversations Pasabán had with said Sherpas while on Annapurna. Although her data is unofficial, Hawley is considered the final arbiter on such disputes. At the time of Hawley's death in 2018, she counted the record as valid, but had planned to do further research. Ferran Latorre, a Spanish climber, claimed that the green rope affixed to the mountain by Oh's team (visible in the picture) stopped 200 meters short of the summit. Eberhard Jurgalski of 8000ers.com, a website devoted to keeping mountaineering records, said, "It's all mixed up, you cannot say what is true and what's invented." On April 27, 2010, Nepal Mountaineering Association president Ang Tshering said, "We recognize achievement as the first woman climber to scale all the highest mountains in the world." 8000ers.com also credits Oh with having completed all fourteen eight-thousanders. The
347:, the last of the eight-thousanders. A previous attempt in October 2009 came up 500 meters short when a blizzard made further ascent impossible. As she approached the top, strong winds and snow delayed further ascent. On April 23, Oh reached camp C3, located at 6,400 m, but was forced to retreat the next day due to wind. She announced that she would delay her summit attempt. On April 26, Oh took 11 hours to climb from C2 (5,600m) to C4. On April 27, 2010, Oh left camp C4 located at 7,200 meters on Annapurna. Thirteen hours later, she reached the summit at 3:15pm local time, completing her quest. Upon reaching the peak, she planted a South Korean flag, waved to the camera which was broadcasting the climb live, and thanked her fellow Koreans for being with her throughout the whole expedition. She was accompanied by five other climbers. Congratulating Oh on her accomplishment, South Korean president
432:, in which she asked Oh about the details of her Kangchenjunga climb. At the conclusion of the interview, Hawley asked Oh if she had really conquered all 14 eight-thousanders, to which Oh replied. "Yes, I did." Hawley reportedly replied "Congratulations", indicating the feat would continue to be acknowledged. "Oh will be credited for her climb to Kangchenjunga," she later told the press. "Her account was completely different from Pasabán's so I really don't know who is right," she added. Hawley's database will continue to list the climb as disputed unless Pasabán withdraws her complaint. Pasabán had previously said she would respect Hawley's decision either way. On May 23 Pasabán conceded that she was the second woman to climb world's 14 highest peaks, but still questioned whether Oh actually held the record.
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in spite of the wind." The release goes on to say the
Kangchenjunga summit is not visible by telescope even during good weather, so it was not surprising no one can visually verify Oh's summit. It states that Oh was last seen at 8,400 m 3 hours and 40 minutes before the claimed summit time. Veteran climbers have said that that is a realistic time frame. Finally, according to the release, the final 200 meters of the mountain are "comparatively gentle, so fixed rope is not a necessary option". Others, including Pasabán, have scaled that portion of the mountain without the use of fixed rope. For her part, Pasabán remarked, "I am confused. Had I known this so-called race was going to be such a mess, I would have thought twice before getting involved."
55:
476:, who died on Annapurna while waiting for help. Oh responded that she was unaware that Calafat was sick until after she had descended and was no longer able to help. "We reached the summit around 3 p.m. and the Spanish climber got there an hour later. By the time we got back down to Camp 4 we were all exhausted," Oh said, adding that she "really wanted" to help but was "not in a state to climb up the slopes and rescue him."
395:'s team, who was climbing at the same time, with Oh's, and a misunderstanding about the starting point of Oh's final push. The organization concluded that "doubts about Miss Oh's Kanchen summit were not backed by enough fact", but said it would be happy to review any new evidence the involved parties had to offer.
336:, the world's third-highest mountain (see below). In so doing, she became just the third woman to conquer the mountain and first from Korea. The accomplishment also made her the first woman to scale the world's five highest peaks. It was her 10th different 8000er. On August 3, 2009, Oh reached the summit of
472:, and employed teams to prepare for her ascents in advance. She is under the sponsorship of Black Yak, a South Korean outdoor product maker. She has been nicknamed "Iron Woman" and "Squirrel" for her climbing accomplishments. Oh was criticized for failing to come to the aid of ailing Spanish climber
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upon descending, Hawley agreed to mark Oh's summit of
Kangchenjunga as "disputed" in her Himalayan Database. On April 24, Hawley explained her decision, "The only picture that anyone has seen shows Miss Oh standing on bare rock. But Miss Pasabán (who was on the mountain at the same time) showed me a
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has been questioned, throwing her accomplishment into doubt. The dispute stems from a photograph said to have been taken by Oh at the summit which is too blurry to confirm exactly where she stood when she took it. The photo is the only visible evidence she has of her ascent. After doubts were first
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On April 26, Oh's sponsor responded on her behalf while she was climbing
Annapurna. According to a press release by Black Yak, there were several teams on the mountain at the time and none of them doubted Oh's summit then. At the time, Pasabán herself wrote "Korean Oh Eun Sun just reached the top
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Oh responded to the verdict by describing it as "a unilateral opinion" and adding that all participants in the meeting - seven Korean climbers who had scaled
Kangchenjunga previously - "were climbers who had doubts about my achievement from the beginning, so their conclusion must have been already
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had video and picture evidence of her summit that had not yet been made public. Rejecting Pasabán's claims, Oh added, "I believe that according to Pasabán, some
Sherpas told her that I hadn't climbed Kangchenjunga. But no names of the Sherpas have been mentioned. Why?" On May 4, Pasabán specified
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On August 26, 2010 the Korean Alpine
Federation (KAF) judged that Oh "probably failed" to reach the top of Kangchenjunga. The KAF secretary general, Lee Eui-jae, said participants in the meeting all shared the view that Miss Oh's photographs on Kangchenjunga did not "seem to match the actual
288:. After completing the 14 eight-thousanders, she said she would take a break from climbing for three to four years. "The last few years have been too tiring, now I am going to rest," she said. She plans to attend graduate school and do charity work during her break.
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was disputed by multiple experts. Oh later admitted that she had stopped a few hundred meters before the summit of
Kangchenjunga, and so the Korean Alpine Federation ruled that she had not summited. The mountaineering site ExplorersWeb officially considers the
954:
The real truth is that the
Kanchenjunga summit has no rock, but five or ten meters beside it (below it?) is a lot of rock. When I came there, bad weather, a change of weather, I didn't do the real point. I didn't do the real point, but my point is also on the
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BBC News also reported on 27 August 2010 that "A member of the next team to reach the peak of
Kangchenjunga, in May 2009, the Norwegian climber Jon Gangdal, says he found Ms Oh's Korean flag weighed down by stones, some 50m or 60m below the summit."
379:, who was also aiming to become the first woman to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders, weighed in on the controversy. Pasabán spoke with Oh and her team while descending Annapurna, Pasabán's thirteenth eight-thousander. After Pasabán spoke with
329:, bringing her total 8000ers to five. Two other women achieved their 10th such climb that year. In 2008, Oh added four more 8000+ meter climbs, while the leaders in the chase for all 14 added only one each.
483:, who plummeted to her death in 2009 after completing 11 eight-thousanders, as a source of inspiration. She has described mountain climbing as a sort of "addiction, which is much stronger than any drug."
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without supplementary oxygen, completing her first climb to a summit of over 8,000 meters. Over the next several years, she attempted several eight-thousanders without success. In 2004, she climbed
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the names of seven Sherpas involved. She declined to give these names earlier as some of these Sherpas were still working for Oh. Oh has no plans to re-climb Kangchenjunga.
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ExplorersWeb looked into the disputed summit in detail in 2009, before it made headlines, and concluded that the dispute was based largely on third parties confusing
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raised in Korea, Oh held a press conference in which she tearfully remarked that the blurriness "was unavoidable due to fog and a violent snowstorm." One of the
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who accompanied her on the climb assured the media that he knew the layout of the mountain well from previous climbs and that Oh had indeed made the summit.
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Hawley stated "I think it's likely that Miss Oh's climb is going to be disputed for the rest of her life" and that evidence was "piling up" against her.
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After descending from Annapurna, Oh addressed the allegations on May 3. "I am really sad that it has come to this," she said. Oh claimed that Korea's
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1213:"More dark clouds mounting on Anna summit push; Miss Oh's Kangchenjunga summit "disputed" after renewed accusations"
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Pasaban gives the names of the sherpas (Pasabán da los nombres de los sherpas que dicen que Miss Oh no hizo cumbre)
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Hawley declared, "it would seem her only choice now is to go back and climb it again with lots of clear photos".
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landscape" and that "Oh's previous explanations on the process of her ascent to Kangchenjunga are unreliable".
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said, "She showed us what challenge means". Oh completed her descent from Annapurna on May 3.
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ExWeb special report, part 1: Oh Eun-Sun loses summit status at AdventureStats
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Korean Alpine Federation Rules that Oh Eun-Sun Did Not Climb Kangchenjunga
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editorial on Oh's accomplishment, casting a personal light on the story
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as the first woman to have successfully climbed all fourteen peaks.
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with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2006, she added scaling
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ExWeb Oh Eun-Sun report, final: Edurne Pasaban takes the throne
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Complete ascent - fatalities statistics of all 14 main 8000ers
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280:. Before taking up climbing, she studied engineering at the
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1083:"Everest & Himalaya spring 2009 Season's end Chronicle"
1379:"Mountaineer Oh Eun-sun Meets Arbiter of Himalaya Ascents"
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to her list of accomplishments. At the time, two women,
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also stated that it believes Oh climbed Kangchenjunga.
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In April 2010, Oh made her second attempt at climbing
1427:"Elizabeth Hawley, unrivaled Himalayan record keeper"
928:"New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record"
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1240:"S.Korean climber returns home after 14-peak record"
1165:"Korean woman climber's Himalayan record challenged"
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On May 3, 2009, Oh had an hour-long discussion with
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1270:"Korean defends climbing claim after doubts raised"
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1498:ExWeb Oh Eun-Sun special report, part 2: the Scoop
1300:"S.Korean climber defends claim to 14-peak record"
1041:"Oh Eun-Sun summits Gasherbrum I, her 13th 8000er"
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857:"Female climbers with three and more MAIN 8000ers"
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1006:"1st woman to climb tallest peaks returns safely"
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744:"Korean Is First Woman to Scale 14 Highest Peaks"
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1119:"Winds delay S. Korean climber's record attempt"
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244:. On April 27, 2010, she reached the summit of
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1081:Rodrigo Granzotto Peron (Aug 24, 2009).
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236:, born March 5, 1966) is a South Korean
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855:Eberhard Jurgalski (April 27, 2010).
1412:23 May 2010 Retrieved on 27 May 2010
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27:South Korean mountaineer (born 1966)
926:; Stephen Mulvey (27 August 2010).
789:"Oh Completes Record 14-Peak Climb"
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1004:Binaj Gurubacharya (May 3, 2010).
439:Korean Alpine Federation statement
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1163:Stephen Mulvey (April 23, 2010).
464:Climbing strategy and inspiration
134:5 ft 1 in (1.55 m)
1447:"OPasaban, Oh fiasco rumbles on"
1117:Claire Cozens (April 24, 2010).
742:Choe Sang-Hun (April 27, 2010).
371:In April 2010, Oh's main rival,
121:First Korean woman to climb the
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296:On July 17, 1997, Oh summitted
1534:Summiters of the Seven Summits
1524:South Korean mountain climbers
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787:Park Si-soo (April 27, 2010).
487:Mountaineering accomplishments
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1302:. Google. AFP. Archived from
1121:. Google. AFP. Archived from
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1564:South Korean female climbers
1298:Sophia Tamot (May 4, 2010).
1268:Gopal Sharma (May 3, 2010).
1238:Nam You-Sun (May 11, 2010).
979:, ExplorersWeb, Dec 10, 2010
549:(with supplementary oxygen)
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455:Next team to reach the peak
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59:Oh Eun-sun meets President
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355:Accomplishment disputed
1554:South Korean Buddhists
479:Oh lists former rival
315:Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
1242:. AFP. Archived from
278:North Jeolla Province
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359:Oh's 2009 summit of
181:Revised Romanization
1476:"Bravo! Oh Eun-sun"
1246:on January 24, 2013
386:Nepalese government
282:University of Suwon
1529:People from Namwon
497:Eight-thousanders
1453:. August 31, 2010
1306:on March 11, 2011
1125:on April 30, 2010
1047:. October 8, 2009
801:on April 30, 2010
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1423:Joanna Jolly
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1367:(in Spanish)
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1217:ExplorersWeb
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799:the original
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751:. Retrieved
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618:Gasherbrum I
608:Nanga Parbat
594:May 21, 2009
564:May 26, 2008
554:May 13, 2008
527:Shishapangma
512:May 20, 2004
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100:South Korean
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1514:1966 births
1480:Korea Times
680:Kilimanjaro
533:May 8, 2007
481:Go Mi-young
393:Go Mi-young
238:mountaineer
230::
220::
143:Korean name
110:Mountaineer
96:Nationality
89:South Korea
32:Korean name
1508:Categories
1457:August 31,
838:2011-06-26
718:References
700:Kosciuszko
598:Dhaulagiri
578:Broad Peak
470:base camps
268:Early life
214:Oh Eun-sun
187:O Eun-seon
106:Occupation
74:1966-03-05
47:Oh Eun-sun
18:Oh Eun-Sun
1174:April 28,
1051:April 28,
939:29 August
862:April 28,
805:April 27,
753:April 28,
670:Aconcagua
628:Annapurna
430:Kathmandu
345:Annapurna
246:Annapurna
1432:BBC News
1169:BBC News
933:BBC News
403:Response
201:O Ŭn-sŏn
30:In this
1250:May 11,
710:Everest
588:Manaslu
537:Cho Oyu
516:Everest
366:Sherpas
323:Cho Oyu
1391:May 6,
1349:May 6,
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1280:May 3,
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897:May 2,
660:Denali
650:Elbrus
568:Lhotse
558:Makalu
448:set".
274:Namwon
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226:;
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149:Hangul
131:Height
85:Namwon
638:Year
494:Date
377:Spain
375:from
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165:Hanja
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686:2004
676:2004
666:2004
656:2003
646:2002
325:and
313:and
68:Born
1451:ETB
428:in
284:in
233:吳銀善
223:오은선
172:吳銀善
156:오은선
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