Knowledge

Shoemaking

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450:"In another building I was shown his manufactory of shoes, which, like the other, is full of ingenuity, and, in regard to subdivision of labour, brings this fabric on a level with the oft-admired manufactory of pins. Every step in it is effected by the most elegant and precise machinery; while, as each operation is performed by one hand, so each shoe passes through twenty-five hands, who complete from the hide, as supplied by the currier, a hundred pairs of strong and well-finished shoes per day. All the details are performed by the ingenious application of the mechanic powers; and all the parts are characterised by precision, uniformity, and accuracy. As each man performs but one step in the process, which implies no knowledge of what is done by those who go before or follow him, so the persons employed are not shoemakers, but wounded soldiers, who are able to learn their respective duties in a few hours. The contract at which these shoes are delivered to Government is 6s. 6d. per pair, being at least 2s. less than what was paid previously for an unequal and cobbled article." 53: 280: 503: 202: 462: 748: 80:(sometimes misidentified as cobblers, who repair shoes rather than make them). In the 18th century, dozens or even hundreds of masters, journeymen, and apprentices (both men and women) would work together in a shop, dividing the work into individual tasks. A customer could come into a shop, be individually measured, and return to pick up their new shoes in as little as a day. Everyone needed shoes, and the median price for a pair was about one day’s wages for an average journeyman. 38: 438: 276:-edged implement, called the clogger's knife or stock; while a second implement, called the groover, made a groove around the side of the sole. With the use of a 'hollower', the inner sole's contours were adapted to the shape of the foot. The leather uppers were then fitted closely to the groove around the sole. Clogs were of great advantage to workers in muddy and damp conditions, keeping the feet dry and comfortable. 337:. The soles were then hammered into shape; the heel lifts were then attached with wooden pegs and the worn out-sole was nailed down to the lifts. The finishing operation included paring, rasping, scraping, smoothing, blacking, and burnishing the edges of soles and heels, scraping, sand-papering, and burnishing the soles, withdrawing the lasts, and cleaning out any pegs which may have pierced through the inner sole. 740: 218: 182: 372: 313: 537:
Early 21st century has seen a resurgence in the shoemaking profession, particularly in the United States, Australia and the United Kingdom. This has been driven in large part by broader societal preferences in favour of leather restoration rather than replacement and extends to not only shoes but
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The sewing machine was introduced in 1846, and provided an alternative method for the mechanization of shoemaking. By the late 1850s, the industry was beginning to shift towards the modern factory, mainly in the US and areas of England. A shoe stitching machine was invented by the American Lyman
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The traditional shoemaker would measure the feet and cut out upper leathers according to the required size. These parts were fitted and stitched together. The sole was next assembled, consisting of a pair of inner soles of soft leather, a pair of outer soles of firmer texture, a pair of welts or
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The most common materials used to make shoes are leather, textiles (cotton, polyester, wool, and nylon), synthetics, rubber, and foam (open and closed cell foam). Leather is flexible and elastic but very sturdy and strong which makes it the top choice for shoe making.
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also handbags and other leather fashion accessories. Meanwhile, organizations within the industry have begun leveraging e-commerce and modern logistical networks to offer consumers greater convenience through the offering of services by mail.
426:, the shoes were manufactured, and, due to their strength, cheapness, and durability, were introduced for the use of the army. In the same year, the use of screws and staples was patented by Richard Woodman. Brunel's system was described by 492:. As bottlenecks opened up in the production line due to these innovations, more and more of the manufacturing stages, such as pegging and finishing, became automated. By the 1890s, the process of mechanisation was largely complete. 477:, Tomas Crick, patented the design for a riveting machine in 1853. His machine used an iron plate to push iron rivets into the sole. The process greatly increased the speed and efficiency of production. He also introduced the use of 402:
Until the 19th century, shoemaking was a traditional handicraft, but by the century's end, the process had been almost completely mechanized, with production occurring in large factories. Despite the obvious economic gains of
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made of wood, which was used to form the shoe. Some lasts were straight, while curved lasts came in pairs: one for left shoes, the other for right shoes. The 'lasting' procedure then secured the leather upper to the sole with
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and similar shoes. The second type united the upper with an insole, which was subsequently attached to an out-sole with a raised heel. This was the main variety, and was used for most footwear, including standard shoes and
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For most of history, shoemaking has been a handicraft, limited to time-consuming manufacturing by hand. Traditional shoemakers used more than 15 different techniques for making shoes, including pegged construction, English
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Sewing machine for shoemaking, shoe repair, and bag and heavy fabric repair work. This machine is manually operated with a hand crank. The foot can be turned in any direction which changes the direction of the material
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By the 1600s, leather shoes came in two main types. 'Turn shoes' consisted of one thin flexible sole, which was sewed to the upper while outside in and turned over when completed. This type was used for making
264:. They were made from a single piece of wood roughly cut into shoe form. A variant of this form was a wooden sole to which a leather upper was attached. The sole and heel were made from one piece of 168:
was originally used pejoratively to indicate that someone did not know their craft; in the 18th century, it became a term for those who repaired shoes but did not know enough to make them.
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A shoe repair shop is a type of business establishment that fixes and remodels shoes and boots. Besides a shoe repair shop, a shoe repairer could work in department stores or shoe stores.
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with which to make strong soles for shoes or sandals. Generally, the modern machinery used includes die cutting tools to cut the shapes and grommet machines to punch holes for lacing.
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Blake in 1856 and perfected by 1864. Entering into partnership with McKay, his device became known as the McKay stitching machine and was quickly adopted by manufacturers throughout
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By the late 19th century, the shoemaking industry had migrated to the factory and was increasingly mechanized. Pictured, the bottoming room of the B. F. Spinney & Co. factory in
315: 253:. In climates that required a full foot covering, a single piece of untanned hide was laced with a thong, providing full protection for the foot and so made a complete covering. 422:. In 1812 he devised a scheme for making nailed-boot-making machinery that automatically fastened soles to uppers by means of metallic pins or nails. With the support of the 83:
The shoemaking trade flourished in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries but began to be affected by industrialization in the later nineteenth century. Traditional
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became much cheaper, and the demand for military equipment subsided. As a consequence, Brunel's system was no longer profitable and it soon ceased business.
245:, was the sandal, which consisted of a protective sole, held to the foot with leather thongs or cords of various materials. Similar footwear worn in the 238:" after the inventor of the technique), goyser welted, Norwegian, stitch down, turnout, German sewn, moccasin, bolognese stitched, and blake-stitched. 659:, English footwear manufacturer founded by Matthew Wildsmith and Rebecca Wildsmith, their grandson Raymond Lewis Wildsmith invented the loafer design 481: 52: 272:
two-inches thick, and a little longer and broader than the desired size of shoe. The outer side of the sole and heel was fashioned with a long
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Traditional shoemakers still exist today, especially in poorer parts of the world, and create custom shoes. Current crafters, in
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Other types of ancient and traditionally made shoes included furs wrapped around feet, and sandals wrapped over them (used by
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stimulated a renewed interest in methods of mechanization and mass-production, which proved longer-lasting. A shoemaker in
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bands about one inch broad, of flexible leather, and lifts and top-pieces for the heels. The insole was then attached to a
784: 1190: 1037: 575:, German shoemaking company, founded by Hans Mayr in 1596, it is the oldest existing shoemaking company in the world 569:, French shoe designer, his stiletto footwear incorporates shiny, red-lacquered soles that have become his signature 770:, an American labour union of female shoemakers, and the first national women's labour union in the United States 1101: 966: 644: 846: 1072: 20: 1144: 898: 279: 767: 391:, typically organized around a central manufactory and subcontracted laborers organized into a 356: 502: 1001: 111:, made in 2020 according to traditional practices, can be sold for thousands of US dollars. 778: 427: 154:
or other plant material, and often consist of multiple parts for better durability of the
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that engage in shoemaking have included the cordwainer's and cobbler's trades. The term
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Shoemaking became more commercialized in the mid-18th century, as it expanded as a
210: 963:"History of Shoemaking in Britain – Napoleonic Wars and the Industrial Revolution" 418:. He developed machinery for the mass-production of boots for the soldiers of the 1180: 1128: 1027: 656: 638: 411: 404: 334: 92: 1121: 201: 1170: 602: 461: 288: 747: 1159: 682: 650: 608: 455: 242: 235: 108: 614: 419: 376: 352: 341: 871:
Stern, Boris (1939). "Labor Productivity in the Boot and Shoe Industry".
702: 507: 489: 478: 470: 415: 306: 261: 231: 155: 27: 884: 762: 718: 590: 527: 496: 250: 206: 186: 84: 76: 599:, English shoemaker and the founder of the company John Lobb Bootmaker 698: 694: 670: 617:, French shoe designer, his best-known creation was the stiletto heel 605:, Spanish shoe designer, founder of the eponymous high-end shoe brand 596: 474: 431: 396: 161: 31: 1093: 962: 551:, French leather handmade shoe company founded by Alessandro Berluti 323:
Romanian traditional shoemaking of opanak shoes, a type of moccasins
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were made one at a time by hand, often by groups of shoemakers, or
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The most basic foot protection, used since ancient times in the
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Roadside Lady Cobbler, in front of Kalighat Metro station gate,
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A process for manufacturing stitchless, that is, glued, shoes—
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for hardening leather and cutting-machines, in the mid-1850s.
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Traditional shoemakers still exist today, shoemaker in Karachi
103:. Today, most shoes are made on a volume basis, rather than a 1064: 292: 265: 194: 190: 127: 104: 410:
The first steps towards mechanisation were taken during the
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Shoemakers may produce a range of footwear items, including
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American Inventors, Entrepreneurs, and Business Visionaries
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Shoemaker's Workshop – The Canadian Museum of Civilization
641:, Italian shoe and leather brand founded by Andrea Santoni 689:, the store could also sell shoe accessories, including 623:, British shoe designer who was born in Penang, Malaysia 818:"7 Common Misconceptions About 18th Century Shoemaking" 348:—simple shoes without the durability of joined shoes. 629:, founder of the manufacturer of dance shoes Capezio 1150:"Bespoke Shoemaking a guide to handmade shoemaking" 26:"Cobbling" redirects here. Not to be confused with 926: 924: 922: 920: 530:sections as an inexpensive and plentiful material 399:, made by many small manufacturers from the area. 593:, Malaysian Chinese shoe designer based in London 1157: 1025: 19:"Shoemaker" redirects here. For other uses, see 917: 787:, an American labor union of 50,000 shoemakers 999: 395:. Large warehouses began to stock footwear in 87:shoemaking has now been largely superseded in 1152:, a book teaching traditional hand shoemaking 743:Men's shoes on display in a shopping outlet. 705:, etc. In addition, shoe stores may provide 930: 234:(machine-made versions are referred to as " 563:, Swiss shoe manufacturing company founder 1094:"Luxury Online Shoe & Handbag Repair" 851:The encyclopedia of greater Philadelphia 840: 838: 811: 809: 807: 746: 738: 541: 501: 460: 436: 370: 311: 278: 216: 200: 180: 51: 36: 957: 955: 953: 669:A shoe store or shoe shop is a type of 1158: 653:, Italian shoemaker, based in Florence 469:Similar exigencies at the time of the 176: 870: 835: 804: 454:However, when the war ended in 1815, 1065:"Quality Shoe & Handbag Repairs" 950: 864: 522:or supply constrained areas may use 283:Early shoemaking shop on exhibit at 158:, stitched to a leather upper part. 95:of footwear, but not necessarily in 1032:. Infobase Publishing. p. 27. 785:Order of the Knights of St. Crispin 134:. Such items are generally made of 13: 844: 815: 344:fighting in northern Europe), and 56:Two shoemakers in Vietnam in 1923. 14: 1202: 1138: 988:Morning's Walk from London to Kew 366: 260:(wooden shoes) was widespread in 91:of shoes produced by industrial 1115: 1104:from the original on 2019-01-27 1086: 1075:from the original on 2019-01-27 1057: 1046:from the original on 2017-03-20 1008:from the original on 2014-02-03 969:from the original on 2014-02-02 939:from the original on 2014-02-02 430:as a visitor to his factory in 249:was made from plaited grass or 1019: 993: 980: 891: 1: 797: 788: 664: 673:that specializes in selling 7: 935:. Encyclopædia Britannica. 847:"Shoemakers and Shoemaking" 756: 10: 1207: 1004:. British History Online. 506:Shoemaker and repairer in 381:The Book of English Trades 171: 99:, attention to detail, or 25: 21:Shoemaker (disambiguation) 18: 16:Process of making footwear 1026:Charles W. Carey (2009). 63:is the process of making 1191:IARC Group 1 carcinogens 1131:. Accessed 7 August 2014 768:Daughters of St. Crispin 1000:R. A. McKinley (1958). 899:"Made-to-measure shoes" 647:, Italian shoe designer 635:, Italian shoe designer 611:, Italian shoe designer 499:—was developed in 1910. 1122:"The Wildsmith Loafer" 1002:"FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURE" 753: 744: 515: 466: 446: 384: 324: 296: 226: 214: 198: 57: 49: 750: 742: 542:Well-known shoemakers 505: 464: 440: 374: 322: 282: 220: 204: 184: 55: 40: 931:James Paton (1902). 873:Monthly Labor Review 822:18th Century History 779:Load of old cobblers 428:Sir Richard Phillips 774:List of shoe styles 711:fashion accessories 633:Salvatore Ferragamo 581:, English shoemaker 567:Christian Louboutin 443:Lynn, Massachusetts 375:A shoemaker in the 205:Roadside cobblers, 177:Traditional methods 44:of shoemakers from 1127:2013-08-20 at the 986:Richard Phillips, 905:. 17 November 2015 754: 745: 520:developing regions 516: 467: 447: 393:putting-out system 385: 325: 297: 285:Maine State Museum 256:The production of 243:Mediterranean area 227: 215: 199: 58: 50: 1098:Cobbler Concierge 845:Grubbs, Patrick. 627:Salvatore Capezio 414:by the engineer, 355:of shoemakers is 320: 189:making shoes, in 107:basis. A pair of 46:Frankfurt am Main 1198: 1132: 1119: 1113: 1112: 1110: 1109: 1090: 1084: 1083: 1081: 1080: 1061: 1055: 1054: 1052: 1051: 1023: 1017: 1016: 1014: 1013: 997: 991: 984: 978: 977: 975: 974: 959: 948: 947: 945: 944: 928: 915: 914: 912: 910: 895: 889: 888: 868: 862: 861: 859: 857: 842: 833: 832: 830: 828: 813: 793: 790: 621:Rupert Sanderson 585:Giuseppe Zanotti 561:Carl Franz Bally 512:Himachal Pradesh 482:rolling-machines 389:cottage industry 321: 211:Himachal Pradesh 1206: 1205: 1201: 1200: 1199: 1197: 1196: 1195: 1156: 1155: 1141: 1136: 1135: 1129:Wayback Machine 1120: 1116: 1107: 1105: 1092: 1091: 1087: 1078: 1076: 1063: 1062: 1058: 1049: 1047: 1040: 1024: 1020: 1011: 1009: 998: 994: 985: 981: 972: 970: 961: 960: 951: 942: 940: 929: 918: 908: 906: 903:How to spend it 897: 896: 892: 869: 865: 855: 853: 843: 836: 826: 824: 816:Mathew, Scott. 814: 805: 800: 791: 759: 667: 662: 544: 412:Napoleonic Wars 405:mass production 369: 312: 262:medieval Europe 236:Goodyear welted 179: 174: 93:mass production 35: 24: 17: 12: 11: 5: 1204: 1194: 1193: 1188: 1183: 1178: 1173: 1168: 1154: 1153: 1147: 1140: 1139:External links 1137: 1134: 1133: 1114: 1085: 1056: 1038: 1018: 992: 979: 949: 916: 890: 879:(2): 271–292. 863: 834: 802: 801: 799: 796: 795: 794: 782: 776: 771: 765: 758: 755: 683:athletic shoes 666: 663: 661: 660: 654: 648: 642: 636: 630: 624: 618: 612: 606: 603:Manolo Blahnik 600: 594: 588: 582: 576: 570: 564: 558: 552: 545: 543: 540: 452: 451: 368: 367:Industrial era 365: 178: 175: 173: 170: 15: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 1203: 1192: 1189: 1187: 1184: 1182: 1179: 1177: 1174: 1172: 1169: 1167: 1164: 1163: 1161: 1151: 1148: 1146: 1143: 1142: 1130: 1126: 1123: 1118: 1103: 1099: 1095: 1089: 1074: 1070: 1066: 1060: 1045: 1041: 1039:9780816068838 1035: 1031: 1030: 1022: 1007: 1003: 996: 989: 983: 968: 964: 958: 956: 954: 938: 934: 927: 925: 923: 921: 904: 900: 894: 886: 882: 878: 874: 867: 852: 848: 841: 839: 823: 819: 812: 810: 808: 803: 786: 783: 780: 777: 775: 772: 769: 766: 764: 761: 760: 749: 741: 737: 734: 732: 728: 724: 720: 716: 712: 708: 704: 700: 696: 692: 688: 684: 680: 676: 672: 658: 655: 652: 651:Stefano Bemer 649: 646: 643: 640: 637: 634: 631: 628: 625: 622: 619: 616: 613: 610: 609:Rene Caovilla 607: 604: 601: 598: 595: 592: 589: 586: 583: 580: 577: 574: 571: 568: 565: 562: 559: 556: 553: 550: 547: 546: 539: 535: 533: 529: 526:car or truck 525: 521: 513: 509: 504: 500: 498: 493: 491: 485: 483: 480: 479:steam-powered 476: 472: 463: 459: 457: 456:manual labour 449: 448: 444: 439: 435: 433: 429: 425: 421: 417: 413: 408: 406: 400: 398: 394: 390: 382: 378: 373: 364: 360: 358: 357:Saint Crispin 354: 349: 347: 343: 338: 336: 331: 310: 308: 303: 294: 290: 286: 281: 277: 275: 271: 267: 263: 259: 254: 252: 248: 244: 239: 237: 233: 224: 219: 212: 208: 203: 196: 192: 188: 183: 169: 167: 163: 159: 157: 153: 149: 145: 141: 137: 133: 129: 125: 121: 117: 112: 110: 109:bespoke shoes 106: 102: 101:craftsmanship 98: 94: 90: 86: 81: 79: 78: 73: 68: 66: 62: 54: 47: 43: 39: 33: 29: 22: 1117: 1106:. Retrieved 1097: 1088: 1077:. Retrieved 1068: 1059: 1048:. Retrieved 1028: 1021: 1010:. Retrieved 995: 987: 982: 971:. Retrieved 941:. Retrieved 933:"Shoemaking" 907:. Retrieved 902: 893: 876: 872: 866: 854:. Retrieved 850: 825:. Retrieved 821: 781:, slang term 735: 668: 645:Sergio Rossi 615:Roger Vivier 579:Edward Green 536: 517: 494: 486: 468: 453: 434:as follows: 424:Duke of York 420:British Army 409: 401: 386: 380: 377:Georgian era 361: 353:patron saint 350: 339: 326: 307:riding boots 298: 255: 240: 228: 165: 160: 113: 82: 75: 70:Originally, 69: 60: 59: 792: 1870 703:shoe polish 508:McLeod Ganj 490:New England 471:Crimean War 416:Marc Brunel 251:palm fronds 77:cordwainers 28:cobblestone 1166:Shoemaking 1160:Categories 1108:2019-01-27 1079:2019-01-27 1069:SoleHeeled 1050:2016-11-07 1012:2014-01-20 973:2014-01-20 943:2014-01-20 798:References 763:Cordwainer 719:sunglasses 713:, such as 699:shoe horns 665:Shoe store 591:Jimmy Choo 528:tire tread 397:warehouses 207:Rekong Peo 187:cordwainer 85:handicraft 61:Shoemaking 723:backpacks 695:shoelaces 657:Wildsmith 597:John Lobb 475:Leicester 432:Battersea 346:moccasins 132:moccasins 32:tinkering 1186:Artisans 1176:Footwear 1125:Archived 1102:Archived 1073:Archived 1044:Archived 1006:Archived 967:Archived 937:Archived 885:41815683 757:See also 715:handbags 707:clothing 679:slippers 671:retailer 573:Ed Meier 532:resource 302:slippers 247:Far East 225:, India. 213:, India. 65:footwear 990:, 1817. 731:hosiery 691:insoles 677:. From 639:Santoni 555:Bontoni 549:Berluti 524:surplus 514:, India 445:, 1872. 383:, 1821. 379:, from 289:Augusta 223:Kolkata 172:History 166:cobbler 148:plastic 136:leather 124:sandals 97:quality 48:, 1568. 42:Woodcut 1181:Crafts 1036:  909:29 May 883:  856:29 May 827:29 May 729:, and 342:Romans 274:chisel 232:welted 162:Trades 144:rubber 89:volume 1171:Shoes 881:JSTOR 752:feed. 727:socks 687:boots 675:shoes 335:tacks 293:Maine 266:maple 258:clogs 195:Italy 191:Capri 128:clogs 120:boots 116:shoes 105:craft 72:shoes 1034:ISBN 911:2020 858:2020 829:2020 709:and 351:The 330:last 156:sole 152:jute 140:wood 130:and 685:to 681:to 497:AGO 287:in 270:ash 268:or 30:or 1162:: 1100:. 1096:. 1071:. 1067:. 1042:. 965:. 952:^ 919:^ 901:. 877:48 875:. 849:. 837:^ 820:. 806:^ 789:c. 733:. 725:, 721:, 717:, 701:, 697:, 693:, 510:, 359:. 309:. 291:, 209:, 193:, 185:A 150:, 146:, 142:, 138:, 126:, 122:, 118:, 67:. 1111:. 1082:. 1053:. 1015:. 976:. 946:. 913:. 887:. 860:. 831:. 295:. 197:. 34:. 23:.

Index

Shoemaker (disambiguation)
cobblestone
tinkering

Woodcut
Frankfurt am Main

footwear
shoes
cordwainers
handicraft
volume
mass production
quality
craftsmanship
craft
bespoke shoes
shoes
boots
sandals
clogs
moccasins
leather
wood
rubber
plastic
jute
sole
Trades

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