133:, there was: "a wealth of talent in this country, unsurpassed anywhere in the world, and many who had travelled abroad in recent months felt sure that the products which British women could make in their own homes, using traditional British methods and designs, could be turned to dollar-making purposes". Initially, the WVS collected samples from its membership – including
379:, including the 'dressmaker stocking' – a stocking cut to the leg shape from unusual and decorative fabrics and seamed up the back. The article reported that: "Women's Home Industries has been red hot with enthusiasm from customers for handknit stockings in thick wool". For summer it had produced cotton designs – mostly
394:
put it in 1966: "The hand-made look is infinitely desirable – provided that other hands have done the work. Nimble-fingered grandmothers all over the country have been pressed into service to produce the kind of work their granddaughters laughed at three years ago. The Women's Home
Industries...has a
403:
handmade", suggesting this might be a desire for individuality in an era of mass production. She recommended Women's Home
Industries as "the real McCoy". During the 1960s the company's products began appearing in high-fashion features – for instance, its extra long knitted scarf costing six guineas
164:
reported that only good work would be accepted (a board of experts would select the work) and payment would be at recognised minimum rates. Those whose standard of work passed muster, would then be supplied with a contract, instructions and materials designated of 'export only' quality. (This was
81:
Originally seen as part of the effort to rebuild the economy – and a way to give women practical work they could do from home – between the 1950s and 1970s its reputation as a retailer and supplier of hand-made knits and traditional crafts grew, with exports to match. It appeared in media such as
284:
described the company's new "sweater shop" in West Halkin Street, saying: "They design superbly styled jackets, cardigans and pullovers for men, women and children...this idea has not caught on greatly here but is vastly popular in
America, and exports account for the major part of their trade".
507:
Bellini also assisted other leading craftspeople, notably Kaffe
Fassett. He recalls in his autobiography taking a needlepoint design to Women's Home Industries' tapestry shop, which Bellini was running at the time. She asked him to create more designs and these were sold through the store, with
427:
article about part-time working said that the company was looking for between 300 and 400 hand knitters to supply its store. It was also looking for crochet, tapestry and needlepoint workers. To apply for knitting commissions, women were advised to send in a three-inch knitted swatch created in
293:
The company took on a far more commercial and fashion conscious approach as the 1960s dawned, although it already had a loyal customer base among US visitors to London and supplied several French couture houses. In 1963, the company appointed
Foxbridge as its agent to handle the sales to US and
439:
While the knitting was done at home, the making up was undertaken in Women's Home
Industries' workrooms, where garments were moulded, seamed and sometimes lined. It was this, according to Alison Adburgham, that gave its products the couture look. WHI would also undertake repairs and specialist
169:
would be in operation for a further five years.) The scheme set out to generate overseas contracts and mass orders – it was suggested that suitable projects might include: "the equipping of a whole cathedral with kneelers". The initial call for samples requested high-quality knitted garments –
217:
Two years later, Queen Mary once again donated her own work to Women's Home
Industries – this time a gros point carpet she had created over eight years, from 1941, and had been created to a traditional 18th-century design. Consisting of 12 panels, it was stitched together by the
285:
Settle also described a new sweater elongated into a dress – a novel design first ordered by the store
Magnins of California. While this was not to the British taste, the store's woollen party dresses for children were popular with both UK and US buyers.
347:
wool and some took over six months to make. Most of the creators of these cobweb shawls were elderly women – younger knitters lacked the patience – and patterns were said to be based on lace designs worn by survivors of the
338:
said: "There is nothing homely about the hand-knits". She described a revival both of traditional crafts and patterns – its 'wedding ring' (cobweb) shawls, so fine they could be pulled through a ring, were made in the
448:
From the 1950s on, Beatrice
Bellini was a key influence on the direction of Women's Home Industries, acting as its designer and also sourcing yarns in keeping with fashion trends. In the 1960s she was sourcing
453:
and silk yarns to ensure WHI kept pace with the vogue for knitwear as evening wear. In some instances, she had yarn spun to her own designs and would also ensure that each new pattern was based on a
966:
423:
Suppliers for Women's Home
Industries remained largely home-based. In 1964, there were over 3,000 knitters based around the country, said to be ranging in age from young to elderly. A 1970
508:
clients subsequently requesting private commissions from Fassett. During the 1970s, Fassett also supplied hand knits for Beatrice Bellini and needlepoint kits for Women's Home Industries.
531:
that he permitted it to be named "Molyneux" in his honour. Its archive also contains a colourful 1970s skirt designed by Kaffe Fassett and made up by Beatrice Bellini.
432:. Upon approval, a test commission would be offered (this would be paid work). Rates thereafter depended on the complexity of the commission but started at around 30
226:
reported that, apart from the section joining, it had been all the Queen's own work – including blending of colours. Subsequently, the carpet was presented by
387:
a pair. By this stage, Women's Home Industries was supplying Jaeger with crocheted stockings and gloves sets in colours such as pale blue and lemon yellow.
460:
Such was her reputation at the start of the 1970s, that Bellini was one of eleven UK fashion names chosen for an exhibition showcasing British talent at
977:
915:
415:, specialising in canvas embroidery work and taking on client commissions, which were executed by trained artists designing exclusively for the shop.
277:. This order for the US cathedral also included communion rail kneelers and bishops' cushions and was to be located in the War Memorial Chapel.
280:
By 1958, the association between the WVS and Women's Home Industries had ended, although Lady Reading continued as chair of both. That year,
472:. It was funded by the Foreign and Commonwealth Office and included industrial and graphic design. Other fashion names in the mix included
375:
A year later, Women's Home Industries (now sometimes known by the acronym WHI), was featured in a fashion piece about the latest trends in
1036:
Wenda Parkinson wearing a Women's Home Industries hand-knitted cashmere twinset, photographed by Norman Parkinson and held at the V&A
188:
In her capacity as chair, Lady Reading travelled to the US in 1948. She took six tapestry seat covers with her that had been created by
411:
By this stage, Women's Home Industries was not only operating from West Halkin Street, but also had a dedicated tapestry store in
1060:
1035:
235:
180:
reported that inquiries were "pouring in from every part of the country" and the first order from New York had been accepted.
465:
266:
153:. The company remained under the auspices of the WVS and operated initially from its HQ at 41 Tothill Street, SW1, but was a
107:
62:
527:
has several items by Women's Home Industries, including a 1950s Beatrice Bellini sweater that so impressed the couturier
1002:
114:(WVS) in 1938 and became the company's chairman. Its stated aims were to stimulate women's craftsmanship and bring in
928:
270:
516:
An archive for Women's Home Industries, including knitting patterns, garments and sample books is held in the
297:
In 1964, Women's Home Industries was part of an export promotion to the US, joining forces with names such as
517:
274:
98:
was among those who supplied crafts for sale in its shops and he also collaborated on clothing with Bellini.
1065:
318:
211:
1030:
492:. Accessories were supplied by names such as jewellers Gerda Flockinger and Wendy Ramshaw and shoemakers
524:
231:
219:
119:
1041:
Beatrice Bellini and Kaffe Fassett designs for Women's Home Industries, from Get Some Vintage-a-Peel
246:
By the early 1950s, Women's Home Industries was in the swing of production. A sale announcement in
90:
1045:
1040:
352:
washed up on the islands. At the other end of the scale, its chunky men's knits included not only
661:
433:
408:
coat and fur-lined boots in a fashion feature about wrapping up for the weather in January 1969.
123:
111:
735:
Settle, Alison (2 November 1958). "Fashion Viewpoint: The Squat Look Gives Way to Shapeliness".
1085:
1080:
1075:
1070:
310:
298:
489:
429:
384:
497:
457:(test garment). She would also source the knitters best suited to each particular garment.
8:
493:
395:
booming business collecting and retailing the products of domestic craft". Two years on,
364:
198:
94:, while designer-makers such as Beatrice Bellini became known names in their own right.
323:
74:
was a company founded in 1947 in London to earn export revenue for the UK in the post-
924:
562:
473:
306:
563:"Women's Home Industries Exhibition, Charing Cross Underground station – photograph"
335:
118:
to Britain. It was publicised in its first year of business with an exhibition at
528:
321:. This was supported with a ten-page promotional feature on London W1 fashion in
207:
154:
396:
357:
349:
340:
262:
150:
500:. The selector for the fashion end of the exhibition was Michael Haynes, with
1054:
1046:
Kaffe Fassett/Beatrice Bellini skirt from 1970, in Victoria and Albert Museum
314:
281:
95:
250:
in January 1951 described a range of goods, including women's cardigans and
78:
period by harnessing women's craft skills, such as knitting and needlework.
501:
412:
353:
227:
189:
176:
75:
485:
261:
The royal association continued; in 1954 a fashion show and reception at
171:
390:
This was part of a trend towards all things handcrafted, as a writer in
106:
Women's Home Industries was established in 1947. The key instigator was
461:
251:
138:
481:
477:
360:
193:
115:
84:
170:
particularly for children under five years old – as well as work in
839:
Glynn, Prudence (2 January 1968). "Fly to jersey for the weekend".
344:
302:
146:
142:
134:
380:
376:
255:
149:– and the response inspired a start-up business supported by the
899:
Glynn, Prudence (30 March 1971). "Brittania Crosses the Waves".
222:, which had also supplied the design for Queen Mary to work on.
367:
sweater and sourced from authorities on traditional patterns.
769:
454:
450:
129:
The idea came about because, as Lady Reading explained it to
761:
Adburgham, Alison (2 October 1964). "Hand Knitted Couture".
405:
166:
646:"Carpet made by Queen Mary: Gift to be sold for dollars".
210:
for $ 10,000. Profits from the sale were donated to the
959:
730:
728:
598:"Working at home for export: W.V.S. Scheme launched".
192:. The seat covers were in a floral design and made of
892:
976:. University of the Arts. p. 35. Archived from
654:
923:(2014 Kindle ed.). STC Craft /Melanie Falick.
884:Keenan, Moira (29 April 1970). "Jobs for mothers".
725:
418:
273:was among the needlewomen creating 72 kneelers for
944:
819:
817:
791:"London, W.1 has landed in the U.S.A.! (advert)".
606:
356:, but also traditional English patterns such as a
907:
593:
591:
589:
587:
585:
583:
399:also noted the demand for clothes that "at least
1052:
869:Gelson, Hilary (1 February 1967). "Embroidery".
443:
122:; a photograph of the exhibition is part of the
101:
877:
862:
847:
832:
814:
810:. No. 56246. 15 February 1965. p. 13.
799:
784:
756:
754:
752:
750:
748:
746:
710:
639:
702:"Court Circular: Buckingham Palace, June 22".
695:
680:
580:
540:
370:
206:, which said that the covers had been sold to
858:. No. 57458. 14 January 1969. p. 5.
795:. No. 56138. 9 October 1964. p. 15.
776:Adburgham (12 July 1953). "View of fashion".
687:"Women's Home Industries (Personal column)".
650:. No. 51600. 27 January 1950. p. 4.
555:
440:cleaning at its West Halkin Street premises.
160:The net of potential suppliers soon widened.
743:
721:. No. 53961. 2 October 1957. p. 8.
602:. No. 50882. 3 October 1947. p. 2.
183:
995:
706:. No. 52965. 23 June 1954. p. 10.
626:
624:
363:design, based on a traditional fisherman's
288:
635:. No. 51011. 4 March 1948. p. 6.
551:. No. 58180. 24 May 1971. p. 14.
547:"Stella, Dowager Marchioness of Reading".
1031:Queen Mary's Carpet in British Pathé film
775:
967:"Archives and Special Collections Guide"
951:Mills, Nancy (7 April 1977). "Knitmen".
621:
313:to send a large shipment of menswear to
913:
464:– at the invitation of the director of
30:Crafts, including knitting and tapestry
1053:
883:
868:
734:
236:Imperial Order Daughters of the Empire
950:
898:
838:
520:' London College of Fashion archive.
212:Queen's Institute of District Nursing
108:Stella Isaacs, Marchioness of Reading
63:Stella Isaacs, Marchioness of Reading
806:"Stockings cut from fancy fabrics".
686:
917:Dreaming in Color: An Autobiography
828:. No. 56791. 17 November 1966.
511:
383:in pastel colours and costing four
241:
13:
717:"Gift of kneelers for cathedral".
14:
1097:
1024:
691:. No. 51894. 9 January 1951.
419:Workforce and production methods
254:, men's socks and sweaters and
196:. Lady Reading's return on the
1061:1947 establishments in England
662:"Queen Mary's Carpet, 1941–50"
1:
888:. No. 57856. p. 11.
873:. No. 56854. p. 15.
567:Exploring 20th Century London
534:
444:Influence of Beatrice Bellini
404:was worn with a swagger-back
275:Washington National Cathedral
102:Establishment and early years
1009:. Victoria and Albert Museum
843:. No. 57138. p. 5.
668:. National Gallery of Canada
631:"The Dowager Lady Reading".
617:. 7 October 1947. p. 2.
7:
613:"Women's Home Industries".
371:Hosiery and hand-made knits
10:
1102:
823:
525:Victoria and Albert Museum
232:National Gallery of Canada
220:Royal School of Needlework
172:petit point and gros point
120:Charing Cross tube station
824:"Living in Anglia Land".
760:
466:Musée des Arts Décoratifs
184:Queen Mary's contribution
165:during rationing and the
112:Women's Voluntary Service
56:
42:
34:
26:
289:1960s couture reputation
914:Fassett, Kaffe (2012).
124:London Transport Museum
72:Women's Home Industries
22:Women's Home Industries
518:University of the Arts
436:for a plain cardigan.
208:Mrs Edward S. Harkness
110:, who had founded the
490:Christopher McDonnell
258:clothing for babies.
234:, as a gift from the
854:"Creature comfort".
269:, while in 1957 the
265:was attended by the
16:Designer from London
1066:High fashion brands
494:The Chelsea Cobbler
174:. In October 1947,
23:
470:L'Idee de la Forme
324:Sports Illustrated
294:Canadian markets.
228:Princess Elizabeth
65:; Beatrice Bellini
21:
903:. No. 58134.
474:Barbara Hulanicki
343:using single-ply
69:
68:
1093:
1019:
1018:
1016:
1014:
999:
993:
992:
990:
988:
982:
971:
963:
957:
956:
948:
942:
941:
939:
937:
922:
911:
905:
904:
896:
890:
889:
881:
875:
874:
866:
860:
859:
851:
845:
844:
836:
830:
829:
821:
812:
811:
803:
797:
796:
788:
782:
781:
773:
767:
766:
758:
741:
740:
732:
723:
722:
714:
708:
707:
699:
693:
692:
684:
678:
677:
675:
673:
658:
652:
651:
643:
637:
636:
628:
619:
618:
610:
604:
603:
595:
578:
577:
575:
573:
559:
553:
552:
544:
512:Archive material
336:Alison Adburgham
242:1950s production
202:was reported in
24:
20:
1101:
1100:
1096:
1095:
1094:
1092:
1091:
1090:
1051:
1050:
1027:
1022:
1012:
1010:
1001:
1000:
996:
986:
984:
980:
969:
965:
964:
960:
949:
945:
935:
933:
931:
920:
912:
908:
897:
893:
882:
878:
867:
863:
853:
852:
848:
837:
833:
822:
815:
805:
804:
800:
790:
789:
785:
774:
770:
759:
744:
733:
726:
716:
715:
711:
701:
700:
696:
685:
681:
671:
669:
660:
659:
655:
645:
644:
640:
630:
629:
622:
612:
611:
607:
597:
596:
581:
571:
569:
561:
560:
556:
546:
545:
541:
537:
529:Edward Molyneux
514:
446:
430:stocking stitch
421:
373:
291:
267:Duchess of Kent
244:
199:Queen Elizabeth
186:
155:limited company
104:
59:
52:
48:
17:
12:
11:
5:
1099:
1089:
1088:
1083:
1078:
1073:
1068:
1063:
1049:
1048:
1043:
1038:
1033:
1026:
1025:External links
1023:
1021:
1020:
994:
983:on 7 July 2015
958:
943:
929:
906:
891:
876:
861:
846:
831:
813:
798:
783:
768:
742:
724:
709:
694:
679:
653:
638:
620:
605:
579:
554:
538:
536:
533:
513:
510:
445:
442:
420:
417:
397:Prudence Glynn
372:
369:
358:Northumberland
350:Spanish Armada
341:Outer Hebrides
290:
287:
263:The Dorchester
243:
240:
185:
182:
167:utility scheme
151:Board of Trade
103:
100:
67:
66:
60:
57:
54:
53:
50:
46:
44:
40:
39:
36:
32:
31:
28:
15:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
1098:
1087:
1086:1970s fashion
1084:
1082:
1081:1960s fashion
1079:
1077:
1076:1950s fashion
1074:
1072:
1071:1940s fashion
1069:
1067:
1064:
1062:
1059:
1058:
1056:
1047:
1044:
1042:
1039:
1037:
1034:
1032:
1029:
1028:
1008:
1004:
998:
979:
975:
968:
962:
955:. p. 13.
954:
947:
932:
930:9781584799962
926:
919:
918:
910:
902:
895:
887:
880:
872:
865:
857:
850:
842:
835:
827:
820:
818:
809:
802:
794:
787:
779:
772:
764:
757:
755:
753:
751:
749:
747:
739:. p. 17.
738:
731:
729:
720:
713:
705:
698:
690:
683:
667:
663:
657:
649:
642:
634:
627:
625:
616:
609:
601:
594:
592:
590:
588:
586:
584:
568:
564:
558:
550:
543:
539:
532:
530:
526:
521:
519:
509:
505:
503:
499:
495:
491:
487:
483:
479:
475:
471:
467:
463:
458:
456:
452:
441:
437:
435:
431:
426:
416:
414:
409:
407:
402:
398:
393:
388:
386:
382:
378:
368:
366:
362:
359:
355:
351:
346:
342:
337:
333:
328:
326:
325:
320:
316:
315:Bloomingdales
312:
308:
304:
300:
295:
286:
283:
282:Alison Settle
278:
276:
272:
268:
264:
259:
257:
253:
249:
239:
237:
233:
229:
225:
221:
215:
213:
209:
205:
201:
200:
195:
191:
181:
179:
178:
173:
168:
163:
158:
156:
152:
148:
147:hand knitting
144:
140:
136:
132:
127:
125:
121:
117:
113:
109:
99:
97:
96:Kaffe Fassett
93:
92:
87:
86:
79:
77:
73:
64:
61:
55:
45:
41:
37:
33:
29:
25:
19:
1011:. Retrieved
1006:
997:
985:. Retrieved
978:the original
973:
961:
953:The Guardian
952:
946:
934:. Retrieved
916:
909:
900:
894:
885:
879:
870:
864:
855:
849:
840:
834:
825:
807:
801:
792:
786:
780:. p. 8.
778:The Guardian
777:
771:
763:The Guardian
762:
737:The Observer
736:
718:
712:
703:
697:
688:
682:
670:. Retrieved
665:
656:
647:
641:
632:
615:The Guardian
614:
608:
599:
570:. Retrieved
566:
557:
548:
542:
522:
515:
506:
504:as advisor.
502:Elsbeth Juda
469:
459:
447:
438:
424:
422:
413:Pimlico Road
410:
400:
391:
389:
374:
332:The Guardian
331:
329:
322:
296:
292:
279:
271:Queen Mother
260:
247:
245:
223:
216:
203:
197:
187:
177:The Guardian
175:
161:
159:
130:
128:
105:
89:
83:
80:
71:
70:
43:Headquarters
18:
486:Ossie Clark
468:– entitled
330:Writing in
252:bed jackets
1055:Categories
1003:"Molyneux"
974:arts.ac.uk
666:gallery.ca
535:References
462:The Louvre
190:Queen Mary
139:embroidery
58:Key people
901:The Times
886:The Times
871:The Times
856:The Times
841:The Times
826:The Times
808:The Times
793:The Times
719:The Times
704:The Times
689:The Times
648:The Times
633:The Times
600:The Times
549:The Times
482:Jean Muir
478:Bill Gibb
434:shillings
392:The Times
381:crocheted
361:Seahouses
248:The Times
224:The Times
204:The Times
194:grosgrain
162:The Times
131:The Times
126:archive.
85:The Times
365:guernsey
345:Shetland
319:Filene's
303:Burberry
299:Simpsons
143:quilting
135:tapestry
27:Industry
1007:V&A
385:guineas
377:hosiery
311:Dunhill
256:layette
230:to the
116:dollars
51:England
35:Founded
1013:6 July
987:6 July
936:6 July
927:
672:5 July
572:6 July
307:Jaeger
47:London
981:(PDF)
970:(PDF)
921:(PDF)
498:Rayne
455:toile
451:Lurex
425:Times
354:Arans
91:Vogue
1015:2015
989:2015
938:2015
925:ISBN
674:2015
574:2015
523:The
496:and
488:and
406:mink
401:look
317:and
309:and
145:and
88:and
38:1947
76:war
1057::
1005:.
972:.
816:^
745:^
727:^
664:.
623:^
582:^
565:.
484:,
480:,
476:,
334:,
327:.
305:,
301:,
238:.
214:.
157:.
141:,
137:,
49:,
1017:.
991:.
940:.
765:.
676:.
576:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.