130:
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321:, the Dablam. Any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes left, away from the camp. However, after the avalanche, climbers now prefer to set just two camps to minimize risk. Camp I is at an altitude of over 5,800 metres (19,029 ft), and Camp II is at an altitude of over 6,000 metres (19,685 ft). A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mount Everest, the best climbing months are April and May (before the
317:, Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the Southwest Ridge (right skyline in the photo). Prior to a 2006 avalanche, climbers typically set up three camps along the ridge with Camp III just below and to the right of the hanging
548:
collapse occurred from the hanging glacier, which swept away several tents at Camp III, killing six climbers (three
European, three Nepalese). Eyewitness testimony indicates that Camp III had not been sited in an unusual or abnormally dangerous spot, and that the serac fall was of such magnitude as
552:
On
November 28, 2016, highly acclaimed climbing Sherpa Lakpa Thundu Sherpa of Pangboche was killed when a 5.4 magnitude earthquake struck, triggering an avalanche and the release of a few ice blocks. Thundu was at 6,000 metres (19,680 ft) on the 6,812-metre (22,349 ft) mountain.
369:, Peter Pilafian, Jonathan Wright (all US), and Lhakpa Dorje (Nepal) reached the summit on 22 April in blizzard conditions, as part of a well-financed climb-and-film expedition. Doug Robinson and John Wasson (both USA) reached the summit the next day.
540:
In May 1959, George Fraser and Mike Harris, two of
Britain's finest climbers, were last seen at 6,400 metres (21,000 ft) on the mountain's north ridge, but never returned to tell whether they had reached the summit.
267:, Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), the lower western peak is 6,170 metres (20,243 ft). Ama Dablam means "mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (
298:(UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) ascended the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatised to altitude, having wintered over at 5,800 metres (19,029 ft) near the base of the peak as part of the
384:
275:, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women. For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking to
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led the first attempt on Ama Dablam in 1958 it was on 13 March 1961 that the first successful ascent was made, when Mike Gill (NZ),
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338:(VI 5.9 60deg 1500m) FA (First Ascent) by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (US), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ), see
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placed 14 Frenchmen and 4 Nepalese Sherpa in three groups on the summit over three days, 21-23 Oct 1979.
295:
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71:
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Austro-German alpine-style ascent by Friedl Huber, Max Berger, Alois
Badegruber, and Roman Dirnböck.
1035:
857:
417:
56:
985:"Russian extreme sports star killed in wingsuit accident on Mt Ama Dablam", by Rajn Pokhrel,
279:
Base Camp. For its soaring ridges and steep faces Ama Dablam is sometimes referred as the "
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8:
413:
366:
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309:
Situated at a distance of 162 km (101 mi) north of the provincial capital of
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66:
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on the west face (VI 5.7 65deg 1400m) by
Masayuki Ariake and Naoe Sakashita (both JP).
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617:
Nepa Maps (Pvt. Ltd.), NE517: Everest Base Camp & Gokyo, Kathmandu, Nepal, 2013
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of the
Himalayas." The mountain is featured on the one rupee Nepalese banknote.
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on the South Face (VI AI4 M5 1200m), FA Solo by Jeff Lowe, 30 April 1979.
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280:
765:
Frost, Tom (1980). "Ama Dablam's South Ridge - Climbing and
Filming".
362:
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217:
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to render the specific placing of the tents at Camp III irrelevant.
507:(VI Scottish 7, 2000m) by Jules Cartwright and Rich Cross (both UK).
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271:) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the
581:
322:
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463:(VI mixed 90deg 1400m) winter ascent by Michael Kennedy and
596:, another mountain in Nepal often mistaken for Ama Dablam
383:(VI 5.7 70deg 1600m) by a large French expedition led by
773:(53). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 445–453.
664:
Die Trying: One Man's Quest to
Conquer the Seven Summits
882:"Sheikha Asmaa scales Ama Dablam peak in the Himalayas"
577:
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A representation of Ama Dablam was originally used by
806:
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792:
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560:was killed when he jumped from the mountain in a
489:(both from Slovenia), which earned them the 1996
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474:on the northwest face (VI 5.7 AI5 A2+ 1650m) by
584:group of companies as its worldwide signature.
949:. MountEverest.net. 2006-11-17. Archived from
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785:
544:On the night of 13/14 November 2006, a large
930:
758:
517:was the first Qatari woman to later summit.
313:and 152 km (94 mi) northeast to
1010:(X). Jackson, WY, USA: Alpinist LLC: 22.
939:
907:"Fastest Known Time Broken on Ama Dablam"
855:
1001:
931:Hillary, Edmund; Doig, Desmond (1962).
699:
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935:. New York: Doubleday. p. 163.
580:. It has since been adopted by the
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14:
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1063:Six-thousanders of the Himalayas
947:"Ama Dablam avalanche testimony"
576:as its branding logo within the
472:Stane Belak Šrauf Memorial Route
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1002:Kennedy, Michael (March 2005).
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1004:"Mountain Profile: Ama Dablam"
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510:2021 by the first Arab woman,
149:Location in Northeastern Nepal
1:
702:"Himalaya, Nepal, Ama Dablam"
600:
420:, and Andrew Henderson (AUS).
410:Northeast Spur to North Ridge
340:1960-61 Silver Hut expedition
325:) and September and October.
300:1960–61 Silver Hut expedition
51:6,812 m (22,349 ft)
972:"Sherpa Death on Ama Dablam"
535:
449:solo by Naoe Sakashita (JP).
61:1,041 m (3,415 ft)
35:Ama Dablam from Chola Valley
7:
1058:Mountains of Koshi Province
767:The American Alpine Journal
662:Bo Parfet, Richard Buskin,
587:
10:
1079:
1032:on Globetrooper (archived)
152:Show map of Koshi Province
72:List of mountains in Nepal
933:High in the Thin Cold Air
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856:Sangeetha (2021-01-16).
846:Kennedy 2005, page 39-41
700:Gregory, Alfred (1959).
524:, French mountain guide.
412:(VI 5.7 70deg 1500m) by
858:"Nadhira does it again"
837:Kennedy 2005, pp. 37-38
828:Kennedy 2005, pp. 34-36
706:American Alpine Journal
677:"पैसाले भन्ने रोचक कथा"
1044:on Peakware (archived)
819:Kennedy 2005, page 33
810:Kennedy 2005, page 31
796:Kennedy 2005, page 28
755:Kennedy 2005, page 26
556:On 11 November 2017,
101:27.86111°N 86.86111°E
564:and struck a cliff.
531:, Czech mountaineer.
427:(VI 80deg 1500m) by
987:The Himalayan Times
974:. 28 November 2016.
746:Kennedy 2005, p. 27
737:Kennedy 2005, p. 26
650:Kennedy 2005, p. 22
414:Tim McCartney-Snape
246:Rock/snow/ice climb
97: /
913:. 14 November 2023
888:. 10 November 2021
568:In popular culture
304:Sir Edmund Hillary
182:Ama Dablam (Nepal)
106:27.86111; 86.86111
41:Highest point
1008:Alpinist Magazine
574:Invesco Perpetual
522:Mathéo Jacquemoud
512:Nadhira Al Harthy
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185:Show map of Nepal
16:Mountain in Nepal
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336:Southwest Ridge
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1024:External links
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277:Mount Everest
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241:Easiest route
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955:. Retrieved
951:the original
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890:. Retrieved
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865:. Retrieved
862:Muscat Daily
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721:. Retrieved
709:
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684:. Retrieved
681:Himal Khabar
680:
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635:. Retrieved
631:
628:"Ama Dablam"
622:
613:
571:
558:Valery Rozov
555:
551:
543:
539:
529:Tomáš Otruba
504:
497:
476:Vanja Furlan
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429:Alain Hubert
424:
418:Lincoln Hall
409:
380:
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346:
335:
308:
292:Barry Bishop
285:
272:
268:
252:
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230:First ascent
218:Khumbu Himal
212:Parent range
18:
498:North Ridge
491:Piolet d'Or
487:Tomaž Humar
479: [
436: [
399: [
388: [
381:North Ridge
104: /
79:Coordinates
1052:Categories
1042:Ama Dablam
1036:Ama Dablam
1030:Ama Dablam
957:2006-11-24
917:2023-11-19
892:2022-01-06
867:2024-04-15
686:2022-04-07
637:2009-03-01
601:References
467:(both US).
425:East Ridge
374:Lowe Route
311:Biratnagar
281:Matterhorn
253:Ama Dablam
176:Ama Dablam
143:Ama Dablam
92:86°51′40″E
89:27°51′40″N
57:Prominence
24:Ama Dablam
1016:1540-725X
779:0065-6925
723:15 August
718:0065-6925
536:Accidents
367:Jeff Lowe
363:Greg Lowe
355:Tom Frost
315:Kathmandu
302:, led by
296:Mike Ward
286:Although
263:range of
261:Himalayan
117:Geography
47:Elevation
666:, p. 205
588:See also
562:wingsuit
527:2023 by
520:2023 by
257:mountain
224:Climbing
196:Location
996:Sources
582:INVESCO
323:monsoon
319:glacier
67:Listing
1014:
777:
716:
712:(33).
493:prize.
353:(UK);
349:SA by
294:(US),
273:dablam
200:Khumbu
606:Notes
546:serac
503:2001
496:1996
483:]
470:1996
459:1985
452:1985
445:1984
440:]
423:1983
408:1981
403:]
392:]
379:1979
372:1979
345:1979
334:1961
255:is a
204:Nepal
1012:ISSN
775:ISSN
725:2024
714:ISSN
485:and
394:and
234:1961
710:#11
269:ama
1054::
1006:.
909:.
884:.
860:.
801:^
787:^
771:22
769:.
708:.
704:.
679:.
655:^
630:.
578:UK
481:sl
438:fr
416:,
401:fr
390:fr
365:,
361:,
357:,
306:.
202:,
1018:.
960:.
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727:.
689:.
640:.
342:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
