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Bandhani

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444:, a natural clay earth pigment mixed with water. The cloth is tied from the areas not to be dyed. The process requires patience, expertise and meticulousness on part of the artist. The folds of the material within the small motif have to be lifted and tied together. The material with the first set of ties is dyed yellow. The material is again tied and dyed into red or green. The artist moves from lighter to darker shades and the use of more and varied colours makes the process complicated. If the border has to be darker all the lighter parts are tied and covered with plastic foil and the edges are dyed with the required colors. Repeated tying and dyeing produces elaborate designs. The designs may run into a single motif and or a combination of large and small motif alternating in some order. 172: 22: 542: 527: 996: 566: 184: 196: 491: 503: 273:
time of Bana Bhatt's Harshacharita in a royal marriage. It was believed that wearing a Bandhani saree can bring good future to a bride. Ajanta walls stand for the evidences of these Bandhani sarees. The dyers have experimented with the use of different elements both natural and man-made for ages. Also, there are experiments with different binding/tying techniques to create patterns on cloth immersed in containers of dye. Different types of tie and dyes have been practiced in India.
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in Bandhana are yellow, red, blue, green and black. Each colour is traditionally tied to specific cultural meaning. Red is a symbol of marriage and is connected to rituals of married women, yellow stands for spring and is connected to both the season and childbirth, saffron is the colour of renouncer of the world and connects with warriors ready to give up their life in war or to yogis who give up worldly life, black and maroon are used for mourning.
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process of Bandhani is carried out extensively in this city, as the water of this area is known to give a particular brightness to colours, specifically reds and maroons. As with other Indian textiles, in Bandhani too different colours convey different meanings. People believe that red is an auspicious colour for brides.
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The art of Bandhani is a highly skilled process. The technique involves dyeing a fabric which is tied tightly with a thread at several points, thus producing a variety of patterns like Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari etcetera; depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The main colour used
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Bandhani, one of the oldest known methods of tie-dyeing, is still widely practiced in western India today. The fabric is made by pinching very small portions of cloth and tying them by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design to form an intricate
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etc. They are considere prized possessions of married women and are mostly essential part of traditional bridal trousseau. In Rajasthan and Gujarat, Bandhani fabrics are very popular with men and women but bandhani saree from a ritual necessity for married women for many ceremonies. Many Gujarati
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can be seen in the 6th century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave at Ajanta. This art finds its mentions in the Alexander the great time texts about the beautiful printed cottons of India. As per evidences in Historical Texts, the first Bandhani saree was worn at the
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Bandhani work is also done in Rajasthan, where different colours and designs are used than the Kutch and Saurashtra regions of Gujarat. Establishments of varying sizes in the entire Kutch belt in Gujarat produce many varieties of Bandhani. This Bandhani style is called as the Kutchi Bandhani. The
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Bandhani tying is often a family trade, and the women of these families work at home to tie patterns. Pethapur, Mandavi, Bhuj, Anjar, Jetpur, Jamnagar, Rajkot, are some of the main towns in Gujarat, where Bandhani is created. The city of Bhuj in Gujarat is well known for its red Bandhani. Dyeing
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In Gujarat, the Bandhani work has been exclusively carried out by the Khatri community of Kutchh and Saurashtra. A meter length of cloth can have thousands of tiny knots known as 'Bheendi' in the local language ('Gujarati'). These knots form a design once opened after dyeing in bright colours.
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Mulmul (fine muslin), handloom or silk cloth were the traditional choices but now chiffon, georgette and crepe are also being used as base fabrics for Bandhani. This cloth is washed to remove traces of starch, and then bleached to attain a clear base. It is then folded into two or four layers
143:, Bandhni, Piliya, and Chungidi in Tamil and regional dialects. Other tying techniques include Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is tied. The final products are known with various names including Khombi, Ghar Chola, Patori and Chandrokhani. 358:
literally means "robe for home", in ritual parlance, it means "attire for the new home or the home of the husband" and is usually a gift to the bride form her mother-in-law. In Rajasthan, during pregnancy or childbirth, the natal home gifts the women
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As Bandhani is a tie and dye process, dying is done by hand and hence best colours and combinations are possible in Bandhanis. There are two types of dyeing traditionally categorised according to durability of colours -
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colours. The main colours used in Bandhana are natural. T H Hendley, writing in the 19th century, provided the organic sources of the colours used for Bandhani, Most of them like the red ( both
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bold patterns of Bandhani are very similar in design, motifs, and technique in the desert belt encompassing northern Kutch in Gujarat, Western Rajasthan, and Sindh even in Pakistan.
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are tightly tied, and the rest of the fabric is dyed in multiple stages. This leaves the knots undyed and hence a beautiful flower-like pattern appears all over the cloth as a
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decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design. Today, most Bandhani making centers are situated in
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Traditionally, the final products can be classified into 'khombhi', 'Ghar Chola', 'Chandrakhani', 'Shikari', 'Chowkidaar', 'Ambadaal' and other categories.
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technique was considered to be suitable for old people. The finest and most complicated patterns, whether for men's turbans or women's drapes called
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can be seen in the 6th century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave at Ajanta. Bandhani is also known as
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depending on the thickness of the cloth. A designer marks the layout of the pattern on the material using wooden blocks dipped in
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small knots and dyeing them in different colours to produce beautiful patterns. This tying was normally done with
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pattern of dots. The cloth is then placed into different dye vats to form bright and beautiful colors.
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suggest that dyeing was done as early as 4000 B.C. The earliest example of the most pervasive type of
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Nasreen Askari, Liz Arthur, Paisley Museum and Art Galleries Merrell Holberton, (1999) Uncut cloth
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where dyeing was done as early as 4000 B.C. The earliest example of the most pervasive type of
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technique was the more preferred one as the colours could be refreshed again and again while
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It is a combination of yellow base with a broad red border with bandhani pattern on it.
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Bandhej saree which is also known as "Bandhani saree" is specially found in
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in which the colours fade or wash off easily. Historically,
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used for making Bandhani sarees and dupattas are loosely
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in Pakistan. Earliest evidence of Bandhani dates back to
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is not very difficult, but is very time-consuming. The
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with a pointy nail to help plucking the cloth easily.
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APH Publishing (published 2000). 583: 199:Group of women dressed in Bandhani 13: 994: 622: 383:for making. But in some places of 35:it lacks sufficient corresponding 14: 1329: 830:Journal of Indian Textile History 783: 401:The process of making a bandhani 564: 552: 540: 525: 513: 501: 489: 276: 187:Group of women wearing Bandhani 20: 836:: 65–68 – via GlobalInCH. 817: 803:. Victoria And Albert Museum. 756: 745: 725:Wada, Yoshiko Iwamoto (2002). 710: 690:Wada, Yoshiko Iwamoto (2002). 667: 656: 1: 576: 80:Tie-dyeing technique of India 728:Memory on Cloth: Shibori Now 693:Memory on Cloth: Shibori Now 175:Bandhani, tie dye drying in 146: 7: 982: 973: 954: 920: 904: 447: 166: 10: 1334: 873: 482: 370: 259: 1244: 1213: 1192: 1071: 1005: 992: 881: 571:Rajasthani bandhani pagri 266:Indus Valley civilization 133:Indus Valley civilization 1252:Glossary of dyeing terms 1072:Traditional textile dyes 559:Preparing bandhani craft 375:Bandhani is a method of 769:. Thames & Hudson. 50:more precise citations. 999: 599:Ikat Textiles of India 286: 204: 192: 180: 88: 1318:Textile arts of India 998: 939:Reactive dye printing 284: 198: 186: 174: 163:("to bind, to tie"). 121:where it is known as 86: 824:Agrawal, VS (1959). 232:were always dyed in 155:is derived from the 1308:Rajasthani clothing 1283:History of clothing 1288:Indian handicrafts 1079:Armenian cochineal 1000: 287: 205: 193: 181: 89: 1265: 1264: 810:978-0-8478-1162-5 776:978-0-500-51432-0 127:. 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Index

references
inline citations
improve
introducing
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tie-dye
textile
Gujarat
Rajasthan
Sindh
Punjab region
Tamil Nadu
Sungudi
Indus Valley civilization
Bandhej Saree
Sanskrit

Jaipur

Sari

Sari
Indus Valley civilization

Gujarat
Rajasthan
Pethapur
Mandvi
Bhuj

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