115:
not admit that there is any spot on the earth's surface on which
British man should not at least try to set his foot. And it interested the latter because climbing mountains is their especial province. It was decided, therefore, to make the Expedition a joint effort of the two societies. And this was the more desirable because the Geographical Society had greater facilities for organizing exploring expeditions, while the Alpine Club had better means of choosing the personnel. A joint Committee, called the Mount Everest Committee, was therefore formed, composed of three members each of the two societies. And it was arranged that during the first phase, while the mountain was being reconnoitred, the President of the Royal Geographical Society should be chairman; and in the second phase, when the mountain was to be climbed, the President of the Alpine Club should preside.
345:, the leader of the 1953 expedition, decided to recruit British and Commonwealth members (New Zealand and Kenya had potential members) rather than an "international" team, and the two New Zealand members not known to Hunt (Hillary and Lowe) were known to Shipton and others. He wanted climbers experienced in snow and ice (not rock climbers) and between 25 and 40 (although Band was 23 and Hunt himself was 42). A "large" party of ten was required, plus an expedition doctor; so Ward (doctor), Pugh (physiologist, sponsored by the Medical Research Council) and Stobart (cameraman, sponsored by Countryman Films) were added. A few months later Tenzing was invited to join the climbing party.
891:
265:
348:
There were five reserve mountaineers also prepared to assist the expedition: J. H. Emlyn Jones, John
Jackson, Anthony Rawlinson, Hamish Nicol and Jack Tucker. The various British mountaineering clubs had been requested to submit lists of qualified candidates to be considered by the committee, "whose
114:
Diplomacy having achieved its object and human obstacles being overcome it was possible to go full steam ahead organizing an
Expedition. And climbing Mount Everest was a matter which interested both the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club. It interested the former because the Society will
361:
One of the principal tasks of the Joint
Himalayan Committee in addition to those of conceiving the idea of an Everest expedition, seeking political sanction, deciding matters of policy in preparation, is to finance it. Only those who have had this care can fully appreciate the work and anxiety of
71:'s study 'A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending the Loftier Himalaya' of 1916 had asserted that it was certainly possible physiologically – the initiative to form the Mount Everest Committee came from a talk given to the Royal Geographical Society in 1919 by Captain
98:
officials to negotiate permission for a passage to Mount
Everest from the northern side (the Nepalese approaches from the south were closed to foreign entry). Permission was granted by the Tibetan government for the British to proceed in the following year, 1921.
362:
raising very substantial funds for an enterprise of this nature, coloured as it inevitably is in the mind of the public by a succession of failures, with no financial security other than the pockets of the
Committee members themselves.
102:
To co-ordinate and finance the reconnaissance expedition, a joint body – the Mount
Everest Committee – was formed, composed of high-ranking members of the two interested parties – the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society.
1265:
1359:
997:
987:
982:
957:
937:
907:
312:
87:
40:
1418:
441:, spoke to the RGS about his experiences in the foothills of Mount Everest. In the discussion that followed, several big names such as Younghusband,
1364:
137:
led to expeditions being banned until 1933. The embarrassment to the committee was so great that the affair was covered up for over fifty years.
1028:
311:
The committee began the organisation for the full-scale 1953 attempt (in case the Swiss attempt in 1952 failed) in 1951, when it arranged the
1423:
927:
488:
465:
334:
advised him that previous assault camps had been too low, and that in 1953 it should be on or very close under the
Southern Summit.
1002:
594:
952:
755:
17:
1102:
1017:
1012:
992:
977:
1247:
972:
967:
947:
942:
932:
917:
912:
301:
130:
126:
52:
1260:
272:
1428:
962:
357:
According to Hunt, the committee's responsibility for drumming up funds for the 1953 expedition was not a welcome one:
899:
1285:
1007:
63:
Although Mount
Everest as a mountaineering objective had been on the horizon of British alpinists for some time –
319:
1196:
517:
1351:
1290:
1382:
1270:
1255:
1111:
921:
748:
134:
1156:
230:
220:
164:
157:
150:
36:
1433:
1408:
1172:
1066:
251:
68:
438:
276:
79:
72:
1222:
1092:
47:
and all subsequent
British expeditions to climb the mountain until 1947. It was then renamed the
1413:
1207:
856:
741:
1305:
1300:
1295:
1280:
1275:
1125:
342:
192:
485:
462:
1202:
836:
385:
On 2 June, four days after the successful ascent, Hunt sent a runner to 'carry messages to
146:
107:
8:
1148:
1140:
1134:
203:
91:
83:
64:
616:
1236:
1183:
780:
591:
575:
558:
442:
394:
216:
1229:
1061:
1036:
806:
513:
446:
398:
182:
449:
of the Alpine Club supported the idea of an attempt on the summit.' Patrick French,
1117:
795:
570:
533:
331:
236:
196:
186:
175:
171:
32:
861:
846:
598:
492:
469:
1374:
1165:
1056:
1041:
841:
816:
811:
800:
402:
327:
1402:
1387:
1189:
764:
44:
1214:
1051:
890:
790:
386:
245:
330:. Hunt had asked earlier Everest climbers for comments on his 1953 plans;
1046:
880:
872:
866:
785:
426:
1178:
1071:
75:
about his travels in the Everest region, and the resultant discussion.
322:
was undertaken, which was also to test oxygen apparatus for 1953. But
1321:
851:
831:
821:
401:, another to the Himalayan Committee saying that I proposed to bring
390:
389:, to go thence by the good offices of the Indian wireless station to
373:
226:
437:'The idea was resurrected in 1919 when a young adventurer, Captain
1331:
405:
and Hillary to England – George Lowe had already planned to come.'
371:
A number of organisations contributed to the committee, including
323:
733:
1341:
1336:
1326:
826:
95:
486:
http://www.mountain-portal.co.uk/text/everest/Evrst02.htm
463:
http://www.mountain-portal.co.uk/text/everest/Evrst02.htm
377:
newspaper, which had also supported earlier expeditions.
67:
writing in 1885, had sketched the idea of an ascent and
349:
responsibility it was to issue the formal invitations".
41:
1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition
125:The first serious attempt on the summit was on the
51:; this latter committee organised and financed the
393:. Cables of humble appreciation were sent to the
1400:
451:Younghusband: The Last Great Imperial Adventurer
82:(the first chairman of the committee), Colonel
749:
606:, vol. 10 (1938), online at himalayanclub.org
592:IN MEMORIAM GEOFFREY LATHAM CORBETT 1881–1937
756:
742:
295:
129:. However, a diplomatic debacle after the
1419:Climbing and mountaineering organizations
574:
512:. London: Allen Lane. pp. 142–157.
507:
953:1950–52 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance
94:to use his considerable influence with
14:
1401:
1018:Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition
1013:Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb
248:(Director, Royal Geographical Society)
737:
427:http://www.billbuxton.com/everest.pdf
302:1953 British Mount Everest Expedition
256:B. R. Goodfellow (Honorary Secretary)
210:
202:Mr John Edward Caldwell Eaton and Mr
1424:Mountaineering in the United Kingdom
453:, London: Flamingo, 1995, pp. 329–30
337:
259:
1184:Expedition Everest (roller coaster)
1037:Francys Arsentiev (Sleeping Beauty)
140:
24:
928:1933 British aerial reconnaissance
621:www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk
576:10.1111/j.1474-919X.1937.tb02183.x
326:was not climbed. Members included
25:
1445:
763:
318:In 1952, the following year, the
239:, representing the Himalayan Club
219:(Chairman from 1931) (President,
1008:2007 Altitude Everest expedition
889:
263:
998:1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police
718:
706:
694:
682:
670:
658:
646:
634:
39:to co-ordinate and finance the
1197:The Man Who Skied Down Everest
609:
583:
551:
526:
501:
479:
456:
431:
415:
313:1951 reconnaissance expedition
242:Robert Wylie Lloyd (Treasurer)
13:
1:
988:1976 British–Nepalese SW Face
408:
306:
1383:List of Mount Everest guides
352:
58:
7:
922:Affair of the Dancing Lamas
908:1921 British reconnaissance
476:, Sir Francis Younghusband.
135:Affair of the Dancing Lamas
10:
1450:
1429:Royal Geographical Society
380:
299:
231:Royal Geographical Society
221:Royal Geographical Society
165:Royal Geographical Society
158:Royal Geographical Society
151:Royal Geographical Society
78:In 1920, at the behest of
55:of Mount Everest in 1953.
37:Royal Geographical Society
1373:
1350:
1314:
1246:
1173:Everest: Beyond the Limit
1101:
1088:Joint Himalayan Committee
1080:
1026:
898:
887:
771:
617:"Mountaineering Scotland"
496:The Epic of Mount Everest
474:The Epic of Mount Everest
49:Joint Himalayan Committee
31:was a body formed by the
993:1979 Yugoslav West Ridge
147:Sir Francis Younghusband
108:Sir Francis Younghusband
80:Sir Francis Younghusband
1223:The Conquest of Everest
1093:Mount Everest Committee
508:Unsworth, Walt (1981).
296:1953 Everest expedition
229:(Chairman) (President,
149:(Chairman) (President,
53:successful first ascent
29:Mount Everest Committee
18:Mount Everest Committee
1365:20th-century summiters
498:Accessed 17 April 2008
369:
217:Sir William Goodenough
206:(Honorary Secretaries)
123:
725:The Ascent of Everest
713:The Ascent of Everest
701:The Ascent of Everest
689:The Ascent of Everest
677:The Ascent of Everest
665:The Ascent of Everest
653:The Ascent of Everest
641:The Ascent of Everest
359:
193:Charles Francis Meade
156:Edward Somers-Cocks (
133:, later known as the
112:
1315:Mount Everest massif
1203:Mount Everest webcam
983:1975 British SW Face
597:15 July 2014 at the
569:(2): 415–422. 2008.
277:adding missing items
237:Sir Geoffrey Corbett
86:– the leader of the
1360:Times to the summit
1135:The Epic of Everest
538:www.everestnews.com
491:26 May 2008 at the
468:26 May 2008 at the
423:Above the Snow Line
204:Arthur Robert Hinks
84:Charles Howard-Bury
65:Clinton Thomas Dent
1237:Wings Over Everest
1160:(Indian TV series)
425:, 1885, quoted at
320:Cho Oyu expedition
275:; you can help by
211:Subsequent members
172:John Norman Collie
1396:
1395:
1230:The Wildest Dream
1062:Hannelore Schmatz
807:Kangshung Glacier
604:Himalayan Journal
534:"Everest History"
338:Selecting members
293:
292:
183:John Percy Farrar
16:(Redirected from
1441:
1434:Joint committees
1409:Alpine Club (UK)
893:
873:Green Boots cave
796:Hornbein Couloir
758:
751:
744:
735:
734:
728:
722:
716:
710:
704:
698:
692:
686:
680:
674:
668:
662:
656:
650:
644:
638:
632:
631:
629:
627:
613:
607:
587:
581:
580:
578:
555:
549:
548:
546:
544:
530:
524:
523:
505:
499:
483:
477:
460:
454:
435:
429:
419:
367:
288:
285:
267:
266:
260:
141:Original members
121:
92:Sir Charles Bell
21:
1449:
1448:
1444:
1443:
1442:
1440:
1439:
1438:
1399:
1398:
1397:
1392:
1375:Mountain guides
1369:
1346:
1310:
1291:2015 avalanches
1242:
1112:Beyond the Edge
1097:
1076:
1022:
1003:2006 Philippine
894:
885:
862:Three Pinnacles
847:Rongbuk Glacier
773:
767:
762:
732:
731:
723:
719:
711:
707:
699:
695:
687:
683:
675:
671:
663:
659:
651:
647:
639:
635:
625:
623:
615:
614:
610:
599:Wayback Machine
589:Kenneth Mason,
588:
584:
559:"XXI.-Obituary"
557:
556:
552:
542:
540:
532:
531:
527:
520:
506:
502:
493:Wayback Machine
484:
480:
470:Wayback Machine
461:
457:
436:
432:
420:
416:
411:
383:
368:
366:
355:
340:
309:
304:
298:
289:
283:
280:
264:
213:
185:(Ex-president,
163:Colonel Jacks (
143:
131:1924 expedition
127:1922 expedition
122:
119:
88:1921 expedition
69:Dr A. M. Kellas
61:
23:
22:
15:
12:
11:
5:
1447:
1437:
1436:
1431:
1426:
1421:
1416:
1411:
1394:
1393:
1391:
1390:
1385:
1379:
1377:
1371:
1370:
1368:
1367:
1362:
1356:
1354:
1348:
1347:
1345:
1344:
1339:
1334:
1329:
1324:
1318:
1316:
1312:
1311:
1309:
1308:
1303:
1298:
1293:
1288:
1286:2014 avalanche
1283:
1278:
1273:
1268:
1263:
1261:1974 avalanche
1258:
1252:
1250:
1244:
1243:
1241:
1240:
1233:
1226:
1219:
1212:
1209:Paths of Glory
1205:
1200:
1193:
1186:
1181:
1176:
1169:
1162:
1154:
1146:
1138:
1131:
1123:
1115:
1107:
1105:
1099:
1098:
1096:
1095:
1090:
1084:
1082:
1078:
1077:
1075:
1074:
1069:
1064:
1059:
1057:George Mallory
1054:
1049:
1044:
1042:Peter Boardman
1039:
1033:
1031:
1024:
1023:
1021:
1020:
1015:
1010:
1005:
1000:
995:
990:
985:
980:
975:
970:
965:
960:
955:
950:
945:
940:
935:
930:
925:
915:
910:
904:
902:
896:
895:
888:
886:
884:
883:
878:
877:
876:
864:
859:
854:
849:
844:
842:Norton Couloir
839:
834:
829:
824:
819:
817:Khumbu Icefall
814:
812:Khumbu Glacier
809:
804:
801:Kangshung Face
798:
793:
788:
783:
777:
775:
769:
768:
761:
760:
753:
746:
738:
730:
729:
717:
705:
693:
681:
669:
657:
645:
633:
608:
582:
550:
525:
518:
500:
478:
455:
430:
413:
412:
410:
407:
399:Prime Minister
382:
379:
364:
354:
351:
339:
336:
328:Edmund Hillary
308:
305:
300:Main article:
297:
294:
291:
290:
270:
268:
258:
257:
254:
249:
243:
240:
234:
224:
212:
209:
208:
207:
200:
190:
179:
168:
161:
154:
142:
139:
117:
60:
57:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
1446:
1435:
1432:
1430:
1427:
1425:
1422:
1420:
1417:
1415:
1414:Mount Everest
1412:
1410:
1407:
1406:
1404:
1389:
1386:
1384:
1381:
1380:
1378:
1376:
1372:
1366:
1363:
1361:
1358:
1357:
1355:
1353:
1349:
1343:
1340:
1338:
1335:
1333:
1330:
1328:
1325:
1323:
1320:
1319:
1317:
1313:
1307:
1304:
1302:
1299:
1297:
1294:
1292:
1289:
1287:
1284:
1282:
1279:
1277:
1274:
1272:
1271:1996 disaster
1269:
1267:
1266:1988 disaster
1264:
1262:
1259:
1257:
1256:1970 disaster
1254:
1253:
1251:
1249:
1245:
1239:
1238:
1234:
1232:
1231:
1227:
1225:
1224:
1220:
1218:
1217:
1213:
1211:
1210:
1206:
1204:
1201:
1199:
1198:
1194:
1192:
1191:
1190:Into Thin Air
1187:
1185:
1182:
1180:
1177:
1175:
1174:
1170:
1168:
1167:
1163:
1161:
1159:
1155:
1153:
1151:
1147:
1145:
1143:
1139:
1137:
1136:
1132:
1130:
1128:
1124:
1122:
1120:
1116:
1114:
1113:
1109:
1108:
1106:
1104:
1100:
1094:
1091:
1089:
1086:
1085:
1083:
1079:
1073:
1070:
1068:
1065:
1063:
1060:
1058:
1055:
1053:
1050:
1048:
1045:
1043:
1040:
1038:
1035:
1034:
1032:
1030:
1025:
1019:
1016:
1014:
1011:
1009:
1006:
1004:
1001:
999:
996:
994:
991:
989:
986:
984:
981:
979:
978:1963 American
976:
974:
971:
969:
966:
964:
961:
959:
956:
954:
951:
949:
946:
944:
941:
939:
936:
934:
931:
929:
926:
923:
919:
916:
914:
911:
909:
906:
905:
903:
901:
897:
892:
882:
879:
874:
870:
869:
868:
865:
863:
860:
858:
855:
853:
850:
848:
845:
843:
840:
838:
835:
833:
830:
828:
825:
823:
820:
818:
815:
813:
810:
808:
805:
802:
799:
797:
794:
792:
789:
787:
784:
782:
779:
778:
776:
774:and landmarks
770:
766:
765:Mount Everest
759:
754:
752:
747:
745:
740:
739:
736:
726:
721:
714:
709:
702:
697:
690:
685:
678:
673:
666:
661:
654:
649:
642:
637:
622:
618:
612:
605:
601:
600:
596:
593:
586:
577:
572:
568:
564:
560:
554:
539:
535:
529:
521:
515:
511:
504:
497:
494:
490:
487:
482:
475:
471:
467:
464:
459:
452:
448:
444:
440:
434:
428:
424:
418:
414:
406:
404:
400:
396:
392:
388:
378:
376:
375:
363:
358:
350:
346:
344:
335:
333:
329:
325:
321:
316:
314:
303:
287:
278:
274:
271:This list is
269:
262:
261:
255:
253:
250:
247:
244:
241:
238:
235:
232:
228:
227:Sir Percy Cox
225:
222:
218:
215:
214:
205:
201:
198:
194:
191:
188:
184:
180:
177:
173:
169:
166:
162:
159:
155:
152:
148:
145:
144:
138:
136:
132:
128:
116:
111:
109:
106:According to
104:
100:
97:
93:
89:
85:
81:
76:
74:
70:
66:
56:
54:
50:
46:
45:Mount Everest
42:
38:
34:
30:
19:
1235:
1228:
1221:
1215:
1208:
1195:
1188:
1171:
1164:
1157:
1149:
1141:
1133:
1126:
1118:
1110:
1087:
1052:Sandy Irvine
973:1960 Chinese
968:1953 British
958:1951 British
948:1938 British
943:1936 British
938:1935 British
933:1933 British
918:1924 British
913:1922 British
857:South Summit
791:Hillary Step
724:
720:
712:
708:
700:
696:
688:
684:
676:
672:
664:
660:
652:
648:
640:
636:
624:. Retrieved
620:
611:
603:
590:
585:
566:
562:
553:
541:. Retrieved
537:
528:
509:
503:
495:
481:
473:
458:
450:
445:and Captain
433:
422:
421:C. T. Dent,
417:
387:Namche Bazar
384:
372:
370:
360:
356:
347:
341:
332:Teddy Norton
317:
310:
281:
246:L. P. Kirwan
174:(President,
124:
113:
105:
101:
90:– persuaded
77:
62:
48:
28:
26:
1166:Everest '82
1152:(2015 film)
1144:(1998 film)
1129:(2007 film)
1067:David Sharp
1047:Green Boots
900:Expeditions
881:Western Cwm
867:Three Steps
803:(East Face)
786:Geneva Spur
284:August 2008
252:Peter Lloyd
197:Alpine Club
187:Alpine Club
176:Alpine Club
33:Alpine Club
1403:Categories
1179:EverestMax
1081:Committees
1072:Joe Tasker
1029:fatalities
963:1952 Swiss
837:North Face
772:Topography
519:0713911085
443:Freshfield
409:References
307:Background
273:incomplete
170:Professor
1322:Khumbutse
1127:The Climb
1119:The Climb
852:South Col
832:North Col
822:Lhakpa La
781:Base Camp
691:, p. 23–4
439:John Noel
391:Kathmandu
374:The Times
353:Financing
343:John Hunt
73:John Noel
59:Formation
1332:Lingtren
1103:In media
1027:Notable
727:, p. 219
626:17 April
595:Archived
543:17 April
489:Archived
472:Text of
466:Archived
397:and the
365:—
181:Captain
118:—
35:and the
1388:Sherpas
1352:Records
1158:Everest
1150:Everest
1142:Everest
715:, p. 23
703:, p. 22
679:, p. 31
667:, p. 30
510:Everest
403:Tenzing
381:Success
324:Cho Oyu
96:Tibetan
1342:Pumori
1337:Nuptse
1327:Lhotse
1121:(book)
827:Lho La
516:
447:Farrar
1248:Years
655:p. 35
643:p. 22
602:from
395:Queen
1306:2018
1301:2017
1296:2016
1281:2013
1276:2012
1216:Peak
628:2008
563:Ibis
545:2008
514:ISBN
27:The
571:doi
279:.
43:to
1405::
619:.
567:79
565:.
561:.
536:.
315:.
110::
924:)
920:(
875:"
871:"
757:e
750:t
743:v
630:.
579:.
573::
547:.
522:.
286:)
282:(
233:)
223:)
199:)
195:(
189:)
178:)
167:)
160:)
153:)
120:.
20:)
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.