29:
216:
400:
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distinct, both as to origin and motivation, and further argues that "as is shown by their continually developing and widespread presence ... are far from frozen, rather being dynamic." He suggests that understanding contemporary
Scottish culture involves viewing the varied and changing nature of tartanry (and tartan, and notions of "Scottishness", with an interaction of legend and history) analytically as cultural and historical phenomena without imposing prejudicial and
1113:
Like the visitor of today
Fontane ... tells of children selling souvenirs to the tourists in Iona, of English officers arriving in Inverness to go stalking, or of the Tartan Terror flourishing there in as full growth as today. He describes a shop in Inverness where tartan objects, 'from a heavy
576:
It is precisely the regressiveness of the frozen discourses of
Tartanry and Kailyard that they provide ... such a reservoir of Scottish "characters", Scottish "attitudes" and Scottish "views" which can be drawn upon to give the "flavour of Scotland", a petrified culture with a misty, mythic,
461:
in 1822 and the king's wearing of tartan. George IV was the first reigning monarch to visit
Scotland in 171 years. Scott and the Celtic Society urged Scots to attend festivities "all plaided and plumed in their tartan array". One contemporary writer sarcastically described the pomp that surrounded
581:
Ian Brown, a professor studying
Scottish literature and culture, suggests (2012) that both of those views are an oversimplifying caricature of the caricatures, in assimilating two unrelated tropes with each other despite tartanry (Highland stereotyping) and kailyard (Lowland stereotyping) being
281:
has also been described as "a product of Union and Empire ... the whole of
Scotland being marked by those symbols normally associated with the Highlands", especially after the early 19th century. Highlandism allowed the tartan-clad Highland rebel warrior to be reimagined as what Tom Nairn
169:
is a living language, that has developed and grown with modern culture, tartanry presents it as a dead relic and curiosity, and those acting from this perspective may simply redefine words, or change their spellings to gibberish, for no other reason than to appear quaint or
286:
as two forms of parochial sentimentalism about rural
Scotland, arising at a time when the country was losing literary and other talent to emigration, leaving behind "a rootless vacuum .... forming a huge virtually self-contained universe of Kitsch". The term
429:
threat subsided. There was soon a process of the rehabilitation of
Highland culture. The Dress Act was repealed in 1782, and tartan was adopted for Highland regiments in the British army, which poor Highlanders joined in large numbers until the end of the
291:
has relatedly but more narrowly also been academically applied to an idealised "noble savage" depiction of
Highland masculinity as natural-bred for warfare and military service though an environment supposedly uncivilised, harsh, wild, and patriarchal.
528:, who helped secure the popularity of the tartan fashion and the identity of Scotland as a tourist destination. Her Highland enthusiasm led to the design of two new tartan patterns, "Victoria" and "Balmoral". The latter was named after her
282:(1977) called a neutralised, nostalgic "tartan monster", a national kilted attraction, "a popular sub-romanticism, and not the vital national culture whose absence is so often lamented after Scott." Nairn tied tartanry to
441:, tartan and the kilt were adopted by members of the social elite, not just in Scotland, but across Europe. The international craze for tartan, and for idealising a romanticised Highlands, was set off by the
682:
Nearly Dark, Darkly Near: Telling tales – Storytelling in the
Scottish oral tradition and the problems inherent in attempts to study, preserve or continue it: A suggested methodology for future interactions
462:
the celebrations as "Sir Walter's Celtified Pageantry". Nevertheless, the result was a massive upsurge in demand for kilts and tartans that could barely be met by the Scottish textile industry.
314:
in 1842 for a years-long retreat, decorating it in excessive amounts of tartan, and her subsequent patronage of "Highland" styles and activities with her consort,
232:
865:
417:. In its aftermath, the British government enacted a series of laws that attempted to speed the process, including a ban on the bearing of arms, the wearing of
556:
The Tartanry/Kailyard ensemble permits and foregrounds only certain types of flora, fauna and humankind, the privileged icons being thistles, heather, stags,
1636:
1611:
302:
to refer to upper-class appropriation of Highland cultural trappings, marked by "hypocrisy" and "false sentiment" that trivialised the past and was an
425:), and limitations on the activities of the Roman Catholic Church. Most of the legislation was repealed by the end of the eighteenth century as the
1840:
944:
488:, that, by most Englishmen, Scotchman and Highlander were regarded as synonymous words. Few people seemed to be aware that, at no remote period, a
413:
Modern historians suggest that due to economic and social change, the clan system in the Highlands was already declining by the time of the failed
457:
further helped popularise select aspects of Scottish life and history and he founded the Celtic Society of Edinburgh in 1820. He staged the royal
165:
are a part of the living musical traditions, tartanry is when these things are tokenised, caricatured, or attached to fabricated histories. While
812:
193:
524:
was largely defined in this period and they became a major symbol of Scottish identity. The fashion for all things Scottish was maintained by
1676:
340:
habitually went aroaming in the gloaming clothed like the chieftain of Clan McCrazy. The proper name for this type of Highland fever is not
1656:
680:
1686:
1681:
1511:
1604:
1483:
354:
was suggested in 1992 by Ian McKay as a distinct term for the zealous adoption of tartan, kilts, and other symbols of Scotland by
1315:
1768:
1641:
1289:
212:
broadly, as "the derogatory term ... encompassing all stereotypes about Scotland, not just the excessive use of tartan".
1825:
1493:
1341:
1244:
1013:
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497:
1646:
1114:
silk robe down to a cotton-reel or a penholder', might be bought in the tartan of 'every clan—there are over fifty of them'.
1835:
1597:
757:
Highlandism: Its value to Scotland and how a queen and two aristocratic women promoted the phenomenon in the Victorian age
1758:
1385:
1651:
1466:
1432:
1395:
1372:
1351:
1325:
1299:
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The Highland Myth as an Invented Tradition of 18th and 19th Century and Its Significance for the Image of Scotland
1712:
1732:
654:
505:
458:
1799:
917:
Dziennik, Matthew (2012). "Whig tartan: Material culture and its use in the Scottish Highlands, 1746–1815".
1214:
McNeil, Kenneth (2007). "Britain's 'imperial man': Walter Scott, David Stewart, and Highland Masculinity".
861:
223:: a very romanticised and hyper-masculinised view of Highland men as "natural-bred warriors", in this case
44:
1071:
28:
1671:
630:
605:
161:
societies and the older textile designs that preceded the modern tartans and kilts, and instruments like
74:. The earliest use of the word "tartanry" itself has been traced to 1973. The phenomenon was explored in
71:
722:
MacArthur, Colin (1982). Murray, Glen (ed.). "Breaking the Signs: 'Scotch Myths' as Cultural Struggle".
1661:
1620:
1032:
McKay, Ian (1992). "Tartanism Triumphant: The Construction of Scottishness in Nova Scotia, 1933–1954".
857:
625:
500:
hunter in his war paint is to an inhabitant of Philadelphia or Boston. Artists and actors represented
434:
in 1815. However, by the nineteenth century tartan had largely been abandoned by the ordinary people.
465:
845:
564:, tartaned figures (often with military connotations), and a handful of historical figures of whom
83:
760:(PhD). University of Strathclyde. pp. 1, 3–6, 12–13, 16, 58, 78, 84, 237, 258, 268–269, 274.
1748:
1164:
414:
258:
in literature and the arts of the late-eighteenth century. ... Highlandism: the cult of the
201:
1111:. Translated by Jolles, Charlotte. London: Phoenix House / J. M. Dent & Sons. p. xiv.
779:
641:
549:
315:
299:
162:
138:
37:
1261:
1722:
1666:
403:
380:
337:
1773:
1215:
583:
537:
536:, which from 1852 became a major royal residence; today Balmoral remains the tartan of the
367:
refers to cheap tartan-themed goods intended for tourists, including Chinese-made knockoff
1549:
Caughie, John. "Scottish television: What would it look like?". In McArthur, Colin (ed.).
8:
1702:
648:
271:
67:
63:
1165:"The Homecoming of Tartan: How Scotland and North America Collaborate in Shaping Tartan"
1727:
1707:
1233:
1180:
949:
635:
259:
254:
tartanry: the cult of tartan as a symbol of identity, which is indelibly linked to the
228:
150:
707:"Tartanry has spread into radio, television, cabaret and clubs". (colour supplement).
1830:
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for such kitsch products dates back to at least 1965. Tartan-tat has its origins in
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166:
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945:"The Folklore of Northern Scotland: Five Discourses on Cultural Representation"
891:
525:
422:
418:
407:
399:
368:
307:
849:
336:... a Lowlander himself, promoted the idea ... that the workmen of
262:
as visual and poetic metaphor, which is involved not only with that Romantic,
1819:
1804:
615:
533:
388:
158:
79:
521:
926:
572:
John Caughie, a Scottish media and communications professor, wrote (1982):
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items, such as those which fill tourist-trap shops in Scotland. The phrase
215:
185:
181:
154:
101:
910:
363:
1717:
1133:
493:
489:
438:
384:
255:
137:, distorted imagery based on ethnic stereotypes – such as tartan, kilts,
1144:. Dictionaries of the Scots Language SCIO / University of Glasgow. 2005
1317:
The Jacobite Wars: Scotland and the Military Campaigns of 1715 and 1745
790:
765:
472:
family, wrote in 1848 of the Romantic reinvention of Highland customs:
426:
321:
205:
142:
55:
40:
978:
The Cultural Devolution: Art in Britain in the Late Twentieth Century
892:"Reassessing the romance: Tartan as a popular commodity, c.1770–1830"
801:
595:
189:
171:
808:(3 ed.). Champaign, Illinois: Common Ground. pp. 104, 150.
134:
1004:
Brown, Ian (2012). "Introduction: Tartan, Tartanry and Hybridity".
850:"Tansmutations of the Tartan: Attributed Meanings to Tartan Design"
485:
303:
1053:, pp. 12, 83, 95, 104, 237. Quotes early use of "tartan-tat" in:
20:
157:. While there are strong, legitimate cultural traditions behind
496:
in his tartan was to a citizen of Edinburgh or Glasgow what an
469:
442:
263:
146:
59:
33:
196:(1992) defined it as "a set of garish symbols appropriated by
1117:
The bulk of this book is an English translation of Fontane's
481:
298:, called a particular "dimension of tartanry", was coined by
78:, a culturally influential exhibition devised by Barbara and
1291:
Highland Heritage: Scottish Americans in the American South
817:
Understanding Scotland: The Sociology of a Stateless Nation
509:
1006:
From Tartan to Tartany: Scottish Culture, History and Myth
476:
Soon the vulgar imagination was so completely occupied by
250:
James Porter (1998) distinguishes them more analytically:
133:
is the perceived reduction of Scottish culture to kitsch,
516:
brandishing a tomahawk, and girt with a string of scalps.
1619:
1513:
The History of England from the Accession of James II:
1387:
The identity of the Scottish Nation: an Historic Quest
1260:
1103:
82:
and Peter Rush, mounted at the Crawford Centre at the
1438:
188:
had foisted on Scotland and which had turned it into
1406:
1404:
1120:
Jenseits des Tweed: Bilder und Briefe aus Schottland
552:
analyst of Scottish media culture, wrote (1981–82):
356:
Scottish expatriates and multi-generational disapora
1230:
1107:(1965). "Introduction". In Fontane, Theodor (ed.).
806:
The Break-up of Britain: Crisis and Neo-nationalism
1232:
1109:Across the Tweed: A Tour of Mid-Victorian Scotland
306:from social realities. The term is a reference to
1401:
1099:
1097:
980:. London & New York: Routledge. p. 146.
834:. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson. p. 255.
70:in the 18th and 19th centuries, and later by the
1817:
1477:
1475:
1448:(London: Barrie & Rocklif, 1967), pp. 653-4.
999:
997:
782:(1932). "Balmorality". In Thomson, D. C. (ed.).
16:Stereotypical representation of Scottish culture
1551:Scotch Reels: Scotland in Cinema and Television
1459:Scott's Shadow: The Novel in Romantic Edinburgh
1390:(Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 1998),
1320:(Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 2002),
1065:
1063:
778:
1529:McArthur, Colin (1981). "Breaking the signs".
1336:
1334:
1310:
1308:
1231:Banks, Jeffrey; de La Chapelle, Doria (2007).
1220:. Ohio State University Press. pp. 85–86.
1094:
856:. First Textile Society of America Symposium.
1605:
1472:
1027:
1025:
994:
129:is 'sentimental Scottishness'. More broadly,
1414:(London: Barrie & Rocklif, 1967), p. 24.
1118:
1060:
1008:. Edinburgh University Press. pp. 6–7.
799:The term "tartan monster" is attributed to:
786:. London: Oliver & Boyd. pp. 69–86.
754:Armstrong, Fiona Kathryne (31 August 2017).
1509:Macaulay, Thomas Babington (1848). "XIII".
1331:
1305:
749:
747:
745:
743:
741:
739:
737:
735:
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379:, tartan-decorated household items sold to
149:. Often the image presented is that of the
1612:
1598:
1239:. New York: Rizzoli. pp. 21–22, 109.
1022:
975:
1072:"Purveyors of 'Tartan Tat' Taken to Task"
885:
883:
777:The term "Balmorality" is attributed to:
721:
86:in the Spring of 1981. Related terms are
1528:
1508:
1365:Scotland and France in the Enlightenment
938:
936:
916:
854:Textiles as Primary Sources: Proceedings
829:
788:The term "tartanitis" is attributed to:
730:
398:
214:
27:
1841:Visual and material culture of Scotland
1156:
1069:
889:
811:
674:
672:
670:
1818:
1769:Highland and Island Emigration Society
1553:. London: BFI Publishing. p. 116.
1213:
942:
880:
844:
678:
543:
512:. They might as well have represented
1593:
1481:
1031:
933:
406:'s flattering portrait of the kilted
208:joke." Lauren Brancaz (2016) defines
1461:(Princeton University Press, 2007),
1163:Brancaz, Lauren Ann-Killian (2016).
1142:Scottish National Dictionary (1700–)
667:
1548:
1488:. Paragon Publishing. p. 138.
1367:(Bucknell University Press, 2004),
1266:Tartanware: Souvenirs from Scotland
957:(1–2). Taylor & Francis: 1–14.
13:
1622:Scotland in the nineteenth century
1070:Newsome, Matthew Allan C. (2008).
797:. London: Collins. pp. 17–18.
184:(2015) as "the false glamour that
14:
1852:
819:. London: Routledge. p. 180.
445:cycle published by Scottish poet
1197:
1171:(18). pp. 69–87, paras. 12, 20.
1162:
868:from the original on 19 May 2022
358:in North America and elsewhere.
1574:
1562:
1542:
1522:
1502:
1485:Scottish Culture and Traditions
1451:
1425:Scotland: The Story of a Nation
1417:
1378:
1357:
1282:
1253:
1224:
1207:
1191:
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1044:
810:The McCrone quote is cited to:
795:Balmoral: The History of a Home
266:-influenced past but also with
242:has been used as a superset of
180:is defined by literary scholar
66:, particularly by the emergent
1733:Visit of George IV to Scotland
1201:
969:
838:
823:
800:
784:Scotland in Quest of Her Youth
715:
700:
688:(PHD). University of Edinburgh
655:Visit of George IV to Scotland
520:The designation of individual
459:visit of George IV to Scotland
120:
62:representation of traditional
1:
1800:History of the United Kingdom
1262:von FĂĽrstenberg, Princess Ira
1249:– via Internet Archive.
1177:10.4000/etudesecossaises.1074
1105:Fergusson of Kilkerran, James
963:10.1080/0015587X.1998.9715956
830:Longford, Elizabeth (2011) .
660:
437:In the 1820s, as part of the
1826:Cultural history of Scotland
1444:Ian Moncreiffe of that Ilk,
1410:Ian Moncreiffe of that Ilk,
1259:See extensive treatment in:
862:Minneapolis Institute of Art
125:In its simplest definition,
45:Scotia-Glenville High School
32:"Tartan", the stereotypical
7:
1836:Stereotypes of white people
1235:Tartan: Romancing the Plaid
631:Stereotypes of Irish people
589:
577:and above all, static past.
10:
1857:
1268:. Trafalgar Square Press.
1264:; Nicolls, Andrew (1996).
976:Mulholland, Neil (2016) .
899:Scottish Historical Review
858:Textile Society of America
626:Scottish national identity
394:
270:and the vexed question of
18:
1792:
1741:
1695:
1629:
1498:– via Google Books.
1294:(UNC Press Books, 2001),
1217:Scotland, Britain, Empire
568:and Scott are preeminent.
68:Scottish tourism industry
1580:
1568:
1556:
1536:
1087:Originally published in
1003:
848:(16–18 September 1988).
383:in the Highlands in the
84:University of St Andrews
19:Not to be confused with
1728:Great Disruption (1843)
890:Tuckett, Sally (2016).
864:. p. 58. No. 646.
780:Scott-Moncrieff, George
324:(1955) coined the term
246:by some writers, while
1119:
1054:
1050:
943:Porter, James (1998).
915:Citing the following:
789:
753:
642:The White Heather Club
579:
570:
550:British Film Institute
518:
410:
349:
300:George Scott-Moncrieff
276:
236:
233:William Lockhart Bogle
72:American film industry
48:
43:that is the mascot of
1723:Catholic emancipation
1482:Milne, N. C. (2010).
1427:(Grove Press, 2003),
1346:(GRIN Verlag, 2007),
911:10.3366/shr.2016.0295
679:Whelan, Greg (2015).
606:Kirkin' o' the Tartan
574:
554:
474:
402:
334:
252:
218:
31:
1774:Highland Land League
927:10.1093/pastj/gts025
538:British royal family
204:, and turned into a
1713:Evangelical revival
1703:Highland Clearances
1089:The Scottish Banner
649:Vestiarium Scoticum
544:Critical approaches
284:kailyard literature
200:at a safe distance
102:Walter Scottishness
47:in Scotia, New York
1708:Lowland Clearances
1446:The Highland Clans
1412:The Highland Clans
1384:William Ferguson,
1134:"Tartan... Deriv.
1055:Brown, Ivor (1955)
766:10.48730/2m47-md74
711:. 31 October 1973.
636:Symbolic ethnicity
548:Colin McArthur, a
510:striped petticoats
411:
268:cultural patrimony
237:
229:Battle of Waterloo
49:
1813:
1812:
1581:Brown, Ian (2012)
1569:Brown, Ian (2012)
1557:Brown, Ian (2012)
1537:Brown, Ian (2012)
1495:978-1-899820-79-5
1246:978-0-8478-2982-8
1169:Études écossaises
1091:, September 2008.
1015:978-0-7486-6464-1
987:978-0-7546-0392-4
791:Brown, Ivor J. C.
373:the tartan terror
328:as distinct from
256:Romantic movement
225:Highland regiment
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381:early tourists
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308:Queen Victoria
272:land ownership
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1753:
1637:Architecture
1583:, pp. 10–11.
1576:
1564:
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1530:
1524:
1518:. § 284–285.
1512:
1504:
1484:
1458:
1457:Ian Duncan,
1453:
1445:
1440:
1435:, pp. 653-4.
1424:
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1386:
1380:
1364:
1359:
1342:
1340:M. Sievers,
1328:, pp. 193-5.
1316:
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1234:
1226:
1216:
1209:
1193:
1168:
1158:
1146:. Retrieved
1141:
1135:
1128:
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1108:
1088:
1079:. Retrieved
1076:Albanach.org
1075:
1046:
1037:
1033:
1005:
977:
971:
954:
948:
918:
902:
898:
870:. Retrieved
853:
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783:
769:. Retrieved
756:
723:
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709:Sunday Times
708:
702:
692:14 September
690:. Retrieved
681:
647:
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522:clan tartans
519:
475:
468:, son of an
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404:David Wilkie
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219:One type of
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182:Cairns Craig
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155:noble savage
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76:Scotch Myths
75:
51:
50:
25:
1749:Romanticism
1718:Radical War
1555:Quoted in:
1535:Quoted in:
1375:, pp. 75-6.
1363:P. Morère,
1354:, pp. 22-5.
1288:R. C. Ray,
1200:, quoting:
726:(7): 21–25.
449:in 1761-2.
415:1745 rising
342:Balmorality
330:Balmorality
296:Balmorality
289:Highlandism
279:Highlandism
240:Highlandism
221:Highlandism
121:Definitions
96:Balmorality
92:Highlandism
1820:Categories
1677:Literature
1647:Demography
1531:Cencrastus
1469:, pp. 7–8.
1034:Acadiensis
802:Nairn, Tom
724:Cencrastus
661:References
514:Washington
377:tartanware
346:Tartanitis
338:Clydesdale
326:tartanitis
322:Ivor Brown
248:folklorist
231:(1815) by
206:music-hall
151:Highlander
113:, and the
111:tartan-tat
88:tartanitis
41:caricature
1742:Movements
1657:Education
1398:, p. 227.
1185:131473903
804:(2003) .
596:Brigadoon
584:reductive
494:Macgregor
490:Macdonald
486:claymores
352:Tartanism
260:Highlands
202:from 1745
190:Brigadoon
107:tartanism
36:-wearing
1831:Parodies
1754:Tartanry
1687:Religion
1667:Language
1662:Identity
1533:(7): 23.
1302:, p. 41.
1136:tartanry
1057:, p. 18.
1040:(22): 6.
950:Folklore
905:(2): 2.
866:Archived
832:Victoria
815:(1992).
793:(1955).
590:See also
427:Jacobite
421:(in the
387:through
304:escapism
244:tartanry
210:tartanry
178:Tartanry
163:bagpipes
139:bagpipes
131:tartanry
127:tartanry
52:Tartanry
1652:Economy
1571:, p. 9.
1559:, p. 9.
1539:, p. 9.
1148:10 July
1123:, 1860.
1081:14 July
506:Douglas
482:targets
395:History
385:Regency
362:Tartan-
54:is the
21:Tartary
1696:Events
1630:Topics
1515:
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1371:
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1298:
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1183:
1012:
984:
872:6 July
771:28 May
498:Indian
484:, and
478:plaids
470:Argyll
443:Ossian
344:, but
264:Ossian
235:, 1893
172:exotic
147:haggis
145:, and
60:kitsch
34:tartan
1682:Music
1181:S2CID
895:(PDF)
686:(PDF)
566:Burns
502:Bruce
492:or a
186:Scott
38:piper
1490:ISBN
1463:ISBN
1429:ISBN
1392:ISBN
1369:ISBN
1348:ISBN
1322:ISBN
1296:ISBN
1270:ISBN
1241:ISBN
1150:2023
1083:2023
1010:ISBN
982:ISBN
874:2023
773:2023
694:2017
504:and
192:."
135:twee
100:Sir
1672:Law
1642:Art
1173:doi
959:doi
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907:doi
762:doi
532:in
508:in
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153:as
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