22:
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36:
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205:, a step where the fabric is steamed at 80 °C (176 °F) for around 20–40 minutes, may be applied at this stage to set the colours, or steaming may be omitted until after the background is dyed. The background is dyed by covering all of the already-dyed areas with additional resist pastes, then applying the background dye either with a brush (
284:), often using brighter colours than traditional techniques. Instead of scrolling the cloth past an artist who decorated part of it at a time, the whole length was spread on a board. All of the coloured pastes were applied through stencils with a spatula, and a different stencil was used for each colour (rather like
231:
step washes the paste out of the fabric; this is now done in a specialized sink rather than a clear stream. The cloth may then be steamed again to adjust its dimensions, and other forms of decoration, such as embroidery, could be applied.
420:, borrowed extensively from kimono patterns for their couturier collections. By the late 1980s, a new handwoven and hand-dyed kimono had become extremely costly, running to US$ 25,000 for a formal garment.
416:
dyed kimono, which were so sought after that the contemporary fashion industry designed an industrial method to copy them for use on
Western style clothing. Famous designers, such as
76:, which may be drawn freehand or stencilled; the paste keeps the dye areas separated. Originating in the 17th century, the technique became popular as both a way of subverting
485:
is cut away carefully in certain places, creating a painterly effect of light and shade. The technique first appeared in the 19th century and was described in 1905 by
257:
thus acted as both a dye and a resist against the other dyes. Stencils were extensively used. In 1879, this technique was used to dye a wool cloth called
269:(wool was a new import to Japan at the time). Adapting the technique to silk took more time; Hirose Jisuke of Kyoto is credited for developing the
1154:
363:
can feature a number of repeated applications of rice paste, with dye hand painted into certain areas before the resist is removed.
21:
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resist-paste. When the cloth was steamed, the dyes would penetrate the cloth, while the paste remained on the surface. The
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technique, displaying characteristically crisp resist areas (thin white outlines around the dyed pattern of maple leaves)
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In 1881, improvements in the dye-paste and steaming techniques made it possible to dye the background using paste (
288:). Brushwork through stencils was used only for creating gradients. A stencil for undyed paste was used to create
723:
441:
fabric native to that region, producing brightly-coloured textiles considered to be artistic national treasures.
725:
Things
Japanese : being notes on various subjects connected with Japan for the use of travellers and others
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works are not comparable to
Western and Middle Eastern velvet paintings, which utilise velvet as a
406:
has never fallen out of fashion or been forgotten as a textile decoration technique. Dyers such as
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1902:
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185:. Dye is painted on using a brush. The ridges of paste separate the areas of dye, rather like
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789:. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. University of Nebraska - Lincoln.
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648:. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. University of Nebraska - Lincoln.
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pieces generally using one application of rice paste before dyeing, typically in an
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787:"The Evolution of yūzen-dyeing Techniques and Designs after the Meiji Restoration"
646:"The Evolution of yūzen-dyeing Techniques and Designs after the Meiji Restoration"
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dyebath, resulting in a characteristic blue-and-white end result. In contrast,
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that appeared to be painted freehand with dyes. The technique was named after
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technique where dyes are applied inside outlines of dyed or undyed rice-paste
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145:. First, a sketch is drawn freehand on the cloth or paper, using a black
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698:"Takeuchi Seiho (after), Moon over Venice, a textile wall hanging"
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153:. A paste of rice powder, rice paste, rice bran and lime (called
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white outlines between the areas of colour, making the finished
88:(宮崎友禅), a 17th century fan painter who perfected the technique.
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continues to be a popular decoration technique for kimono and
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The
Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History
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techniques have also been used to produce the stencil dyed
98:
was published in 1688, showing similar patterns applied to
163:, following the outline. These ridges of paste are called
1217:
962:
793:
189:. Within an area of dye, the brush can be used to apply
92:'s fan designs became so popular that a book called the
728:. J. Murray, London (republished by Echo Press, 2009).
80:
on dress fabrics, and also as a way to quickly produce
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245:, newly-introduced to Japan, and mixed them with the
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323:) to Japanese artists. In the early 20th century,
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519:, a traditional Japanese wax resist dye technique
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392:. Unlike other kimono dyeing techniques such as
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211:), or by dipping the fabric in a vat of dye (
592:. Tokyo: Shufunotomosha Co. pp. 49–50.
529:, a traditional stencil resist dye technique
721:
587:
241:technique was developed. It used synthetic
1240:
1226:
1155:Traditional dyes of the Scottish Highlands
816:
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588:Yang, Sunny; Narasin, Rochelle M. (2000).
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16:Japanese dyeing technique for textiles
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110:). A fashion for elaborate pictorial
715:
764:Okamura, Mayumi (10 January 2014).
670:Okamura, Mayumi (10 January 2014).
444:
13:
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329:developed new designs inspired by
321:heavily influenced by Japanese art
14:
2919:
745:
489:. Although technically a form of
751:
722:Chamberlain, Basil Hall (1905).
338:Though similar in appearance to
45:technique, 1912–1926, from the
785:Fukatsu-Fukuoka, Yuko (2004).
644:Fukatsu-Fukuoka, Yuko (2004).
581:
567:. Greenwood Publishing Group.
554:
366:
124:There are several subtypes of
39:Japanese kimono dyed with the
1:
548:
475:is dyed and painted with the
347:differs in application, with
217:), sometimes with additional
169:. A bean-based liquid called
772:(in Japanese). Project Japan
410:of Kyoto continue to create
311:of 1900 in Paris introduced
119:
47:Khalili Collection of Kimono
7:
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1986:
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481:technique, after which the
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116:designs lasted until 1692.
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2903:Japanese dyeing techniques
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225:(tie-dye) patterning. The
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2898:Japanese art terminology
2862:Swatches and strike-offs
2765:Vitale Barberis Canonico
1202:Glossary of dyeing terms
1022:Traditional textile dyes
319:(a Western art movement
139:, sometimes also called
106:(the predecessor of the
25:A kimono dyed with the
1903:Vinyl coated polyester
949:
487:Basil Hall Chamberlain
309:Exposition Universelle
49:
32:
2779:Manufacturingindustry
948:
889:Reactive dye printing
561:Condra, Jill (2008).
175:is then applied as a
38:
24:
2735:Holland & Sherry
760:at Wikimedia Commons
590:Textile Art of Japan
2837:History of textiles
199:, "ombré-dyeing").
2690:Woodblock printing
2219:Conductive textile
1388:Cedar bark textile
1029:Armenian cochineal
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235:In the 1870s, the
50:
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298:pattern resemble
161:piped from a cone
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2842:History of silk
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678:. Project Japan
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408:Moriguchi Kako
368:
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149:ink made from
121:
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90:Miyazaki Yūzen
86:Miyazaki Yūzen
78:sumptuary laws
68:is a Japanese
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2177:Needlerun net
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1288:Almerían silk
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1124:Tyrian purple
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956:Types of dyes
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735:9781848301818
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574:9780313336645
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296:
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276:
273:
267:
266:mosurin-yuzen
261:
255:
249:
244:
239:
238:utsushi-yūzen
233:
229:
228:yūzen-nagashi
223:
222:
215:
209:
203:
197:
192:
188:
183:
178:
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157:
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133:The first is
131:
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117:
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109:
104:
103:
96:
91:
87:
83:
79:
75:
71:
70:resist dyeing
57:
56:
48:
43:
37:
29:
23:
19:
2801:Preservation
2708:Fabric mills
2696:
2685:Waxed cotton
2290:Bizarre silk
2048:Polar fleece
1783:Saga Nishiki
1778:Russell cord
1583:Harris tweed
1328:Brilliantine
1308:Bedford cord
1274:(Medriñaque)
1207:List of dyes
1079:Dyer's broom
1034:Black walnut
933:
774:. Retrieved
769:
724:
717:
705:. Retrieved
701:
692:
680:. Retrieved
675:
589:
583:
563:
556:
496:birodo yūzen
462:yūzen birodo
456:Birodo yūzen
453:
422:
388:kurotomesode
370:
337:
306:
277:
263:, producing
243:aniline dyes
234:
196:bokashi-zome
132:
123:
54:
51:
18:
2811:Terminology
2796:Performance
2644:Rōketsuzome
2589:Heatsetting
2564:Calendering
2554:Bògòlanfini
2501:Spider silk
2315:Houndstooth
2310:Herringbone
2269:Windstopper
2114:Boiled wool
1633:Kente cloth
1623:Khaki drill
1603:Irish linen
1588:Herringbone
1453:Cotton duck
1413:Cheesecloth
1272:Abacá cloth
988:Substantive
906:Rōketsuzome
899:Ring dyeing
515:Rōketsuzome
396:tsujigahana
367:Present day
332:Art Nouveau
315:Art Nouveau
301:itome-yūzen
290:skiamorphic
275:technique.
193:gradients (
147:heat-labile
136:itome-yūzen
130:technique.
2892:Categories
2745:Loro Piana
2740:Larusmiani
2673:Tsutsugaki
2661:Tenterhook
2569:Decatising
2446:Microfiber
2350:Tattersall
2330:Pinstripes
2305:Glen plaid
2229:E-textiles
2096:Cedar bark
2053:Terrycloth
2000:Pile woven
1888:Ultrasuede
1818:Seersucker
1743:Perpetuana
1668:Madapollam
1613:Kerseymere
1398:Char cloth
1353:Byrd Cloth
1333:Broadcloth
1318:Beta cloth
1164:Craft dyes
925:Tsutsugaki
832:Techniques
599:4889960619
549:References
535:Tsutsugaki
450:variations
418:Hanae Mori
350:tsutsugaki
342:tsutsugaki
295:kata-yūzen
272:kata-yūzen
159:) is then
151:dayflowers
2857:Shrinkage
2806:Recycling
2730:E. Thomas
2579:Finishing
2517:Finishing
2461:Polyester
2411:Eisengarn
2335:Polka dot
2201:Technical
2129:Milliskin
2068:Velveteen
2023:Crimplene
1838:Shot silk
1763:Rayadillo
1758:Rakematiz
1658:Longcloth
1578:Haircloth
1568:Grosgrain
1558:Grenadine
1548:Ghalamkar
1543:Georgette
1528:Gabardine
1403:Charmeuse
1323:Bombazine
1313:Bengaline
1298:Barkcloth
1195:Reference
1049:Cochineal
1039:Bloodroot
1008:Discharge
865:Kalamkari
707:24 August
208:hiki-zome
142:hon-yūzen
120:Technique
2847:Knitting
2750:Piacenza
2725:Dormeuil
2610:Katazome
2594:Indienne
2540:Beetling
2530:Androsia
2521:printing
2481:Sea silk
2456:Pashmina
2396:Cashmere
2340:Shweshwe
2278:Patterns
2264:SympaTex
2259:Stub-tex
2249:Silnylon
2239:Gore-Tex
2157:Bobbinet
2083:Nonwoven
2073:Zibeline
2038:Moquette
2018:Corduroy
2013:Chenille
1952:Figured
1933:Whipcord
1733:Paduasoy
1718:Osnaburg
1688:Nainsook
1678:Moleskin
1663:Mackinaw
1508:Eolienne
1468:Cretonne
1448:Corduroy
1383:Capilene
1378:Chambray
1358:C change
1293:Barathea
1283:Armazine
1119:Turmeric
1064:Dyewoods
1044:Brazilin
1003:Disperse
978:Reactive
872:Katazome
776:5 August
682:5 August
525:Katazome
507:See also
182:irosashi
2872:Weaving
2820:Related
2720:Cerruti
2584:Fulling
2559:Burnout
2547:Bingata
2496:Spandex
2376:Acrylic
2325:Paisley
2254:Spandex
2224:Darlexx
2214:Ban-Lon
2119:Coolmax
2106:Knitted
2033:Mockado
2028:Fustian
1981:Songket
1961:Brocade
1943:Zorbeez
1908:Viyella
1898:Ventile
1863:Ticking
1848:Taffeta
1808:Scarlet
1773:Ripstop
1738:Percale
1723:Ottoman
1713:Organza
1708:Organdy
1703:Oilskin
1693:Nankeen
1608:Jamdani
1573:Habutai
1553:Gingham
1523:Fustian
1518:Foulard
1513:Flannel
1503:Drugget
1443:Cordura
1418:Chiffon
1408:Charvet
1393:Challis
1368:Cambric
1343:Bunting
1338:Buckram
1303:Batiste
1181:Procion
1176:Inkodye
1143:History
1114:Saffron
1099:Logwood
1074:Gamboge
1054:Cudbear
1013:Pigment
983:Solvent
968:Natural
918:Tie-dye
913:Shibori
884:Mordant
879:Leheria
766:"yūzen"
672:"yūzen"
465:, is a
437:bingata
425:Okinawa
344:, yūzen
281:shigoki
260:mosurin
221:shibori
214:ji-zome
177:mordant
2827:Dyeing
2786:Design
2760:Scabal
2601:Kasuri
2574:Devoré
2451:Olefin
2436:Mohair
2426:Kevlar
2406:Cotton
2386:Angora
2381:Alpaca
2320:Kelsch
2285:Argyle
2234:Gannex
2149:Netted
2139:Velour
2134:Jersey
2063:Velvet
1976:Lampas
1971:Damask
1966:Camlet
1938:Zephyr
1923:Waffle
1918:Wadmal
1873:Tucuyo
1858:Tartan
1823:Sendal
1793:Sateen
1788:Samite
1753:Poplin
1748:Pongee
1728:Oxford
1683:Muslin
1673:Madras
1598:Hodden
1593:Himroo
1493:Dowlas
1488:Dornix
1478:Dimity
1458:Coutil
1433:Cloqué
1428:Chintz
1373:Canvas
1363:Calico
1348:Burlap
1278:Aertex
1249:Fabric
1104:Madder
1094:Kermes
1089:Indigo
1069:Fustic
993:Sulfur
894:Resist
856:Kasuri
844:Dyeing
825:Dyeing
732:
596:
571:
501:canvas
473:velvet
355:indigo
172:gojiru
108:kimono
102:kosode
82:kimono
74:resist
2852:Pandy
2832:Fiber
2770:Zegna
2697:Yūzen
2622:Moire
2535:Batik
2491:Sisal
2476:Rayon
2471:Ramie
2441:Nylon
2431:Linen
2391:Bashō
2370:Abacá
2300:Chiné
2295:Check
2187:Tulle
2182:Ninon
2043:Plush
2008:Baize
1988:Rinzu
1954:woven
1928:Wigan
1913:Voile
1883:Twill
1878:Tweed
1868:Toile
1843:Stuff
1833:Scrim
1828:Serge
1798:Satin
1698:Ninon
1653:Loden
1618:Khādī
1538:Gazar
1533:Gauze
1498:Drill
1473:Denim
1463:Crêpe
1423:Chino
1264:Woven
1256:Types
1171:Dylon
1084:Henna
1059:Cutch
934:Yūzen
839:Batik
758:Yūzen
542:yūzen
478:yūzen
468:yūzen
459:, or
447:Yūzen
430:yūzen
413:yūzen
403:yūzen
373:Yūzen
360:yūzen
326:yūzen
202:Mushi
191:ombré
166:itome
127:yūzen
113:yūzen
55:Yūzen
42:yūzen
28:yūzen
2877:Yarn
2755:Reda
2506:Wool
2486:Silk
2466:Piña
2421:Jute
2416:Hemp
2401:Coir
2172:Mesh
2167:Lace
2091:Felt
1853:Tais
1803:Saye
1643:Lawn
1638:Lamé
1134:Woad
1129:Weld
973:Acid
963:Dyes
849:Ikat
778:2021
730:ISBN
709:2012
684:2021
594:ISBN
569:ISBN
483:pile
307:The
254:nori
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