638:λ increases. This effect will be more pronounced in shallow seas and coastal regions, as the relative water depth increase due to sea-level rise will be larger, when compared to the open ocean. Moreover, the amount of sea-level rise differs per region. Some regions will be subject to a higher rate of sea-level rise than other regions and nearby amphidromic points will be more susceptible to change location. Lastly, sea-level rise results in less bottom friction and therefore less energy dissipation. This causes the amphidromic points to move further away from the coastal boundaries and more towards the centre its channel/basin.
219:
2160:
314:) and Poincaré waves are generated. The amplitude of a Kelvin wave is highest near the coast and, when considering a wave on the northern hemisphere, decreases to further away from its right-hand coastal boundary. The propagation of Kelvin waves is always alongshore and its amplification falls off according to the Rossby radius of deformation. In contrast, Poincaré waves are able to propagate both alongshore as a free wave with a propagating wave pattern and cross-shore as a trapped wave with a
334:, the tide propagates as an incident and a reflective Kelvin wave. The amplitude of the waves decreases further away from the coast and at certain points in the middle of the basin, the amplitude of the total wave becomes zero. Moreover, the phase of the tide seems to rotate around these points of zero amplitude. These points are called amphidromic points. The sense of rotation of the wave around the amphidromic point is in the direction of the Coriolis force; anticlockwise in the
466:λ) of the nodes decreases. Secondly, energy losses due to friction in shallow seas and coastal boundaries result in additional adjustments of the tidal pattern. Tidal waves are not perfectly reflected, resulting in energy loss which causes a smaller reflected wave compared to the incoming wave. Consequently, on the northern hemisphere, the amphidromic point will be displaced from the centre line of the channel towards the left of the direction of the incident wave.
3048:
3069:
38:
383:λ. In an idealized situation, amphidromic points can be found at the position of these nodes of the total tidal wave. When neglecting friction, the position of the amphidromic points would be in the middle of the basin, as the initial amplitude and the amplitude decay of the incident wave and the reflected wave are equal, this can be seen in Animations 1 and 2 However, tidal waves in the ocean are subject to friction from the
2149:
3058:
355:. As such, the tidal waves observed cross-shore are predominantly Poincaré waves. The tides observed in a semi-enclosed basin are therefore chiefly the summation of the incident Kelvin wave, reflected Kelvin wave and cross-shore standing Poincaré wave. An animation of the tidal amplitude, tidal currents and its amphidromic behaviour is shown in Animation 2.
132:, there is almost no vertical change in sea level from tidal action; that is, there is little or no difference between high tide and low tide at these locations. There can still be tidal currents since the water levels on either side of the amphidromic point are not the same. A separate amphidromic system is created by each periodic tidal component.
150:
connect points which reach high tide at the same time and low tide at the same time. In Figure 1, the low tide lags or leads by 1 hr 2 min from its neighboring lines. Where the lines meet are amphidromes, and the tide rotates around them; for example, along the
Chilean coast, and from southern Mexico
222:
Figure 2. Resonance between an incident and reflected wave and the resulting total wave. At certain points (nodes), the amplitude of the incident wave and the reflected wave cancel each other out. At other points (antinodes), the amplitude of the incident wave and the reflected wave amplify each
661:
81:, or the height difference between high tide and low tide) for that harmonic constituent increases with distance from this point, though not uniformly. As such, the concept of amphidromic points is crucial to understanding tidal behaviour. The term derives from the
350:
In a semi-enclosed basin, such as the North Sea, Kelvin waves, though being the dominant tidal wave propagating in alongshore direction, are not able to propagate cross shore as they rely on the presence of lateral boundaries or the
298:, the water in the ocean is deflected towards the right in the northern hemisphere and conversely in the southern hemisphere. This side-way component of the flow due to the Coriolis force causes a build-up of water that results in a
601:
It can occur that the amphidromic point moves inland of the coastal boundary. In this case, the amplitude and the phase of the tidal wave will still rotate around an inland point, which is called a virtual or degenerate amphidrome.
531:
48:
tidal constituent, the amplitude indicated by color. The white lines are cotidal lines spaced at phase intervals of 30° (a bit over 1 hr). The amphidromic points are the dark blue areas where the lines come
429:
243:
between the reflected and the incident wave, the amplitude of the total wave can either be suppressed or amplified. The points at which the two waves amplify each other are known as
628:λ in semi-enclosed systems will move further away from the cross-shore coastal boundary. Furthermore, amphidromic points will move further away from each other as the interval of
808:
are amphidromic points in the sense that the tide goes around them in about 12 and a half hours, but the amplitude of the tides on their coasts is in some places large.
675:. The light-blue lines are lines of equal tidal phase for the vertical tide (surface elevation) along such a line, and the amphidromic points are denoted by 1, 2 and 3.
239:
wave that propagates in the opposite direction to the incident wave. The combination of the reflected wave and the incident wave is the total wave. Due to
294:
A long, progressive wave travelling in a channel on a rotating Earth behaves differently from a wave travelling along a non-rotating channel. Due to the
610:
The position of amphidromic points and their movement predominantly depends on the wavelength of the tidal wave and friction. As a result of enhanced
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1421:
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594:
is smaller and the displacement of the amphidromic point from the centre is larger. Similar amphidromic movement is expected in other seas where
618:. As the water depth increases, the wavelength of the tidal wave will increase. Consequently the position of the amphidromic points located at
223:
other. The respective distance between the nodes and antinodes are shown in the bottom right of the Figure and expressed in terms of wavelength.
559:
is the ratio between amplitudes of the reflected wave and the incident wave. Because the reflected wave is smaller than the incident wave,
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474:
1052:
387:
and from interaction with coastal boundaries. Moreover, variation in water depth influences the spacing between amphidromic points.
61:, is a geographical location where there is little or no difference in sea height between high tide and low tide; it has zero tidal
1302:"Physical Oceanography. Albert Defant. Pergamon, New York, 1961. vol. 1, xvi + 729 pp.; vol. 2, viii + 598 pp. Illus. + maps. $ 35"
590:. During spring tides, more energy is absorbed from the tidal wave compared to neap tides. As a result, the reflection coefficient
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1397:
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1183:
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878:"Tides and their seminal impact on the geology, geography, history, and socio-economics of the Bay of Fundy, eastern Canada"
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Locations with more shallow water depth have their amphidromic points closer to each other as the distance of the interval (
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1830:
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2783:
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311:
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179:. The ocean reacts to this external forcing by generating, in particular relevant for describing tidal behaviour,
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1957:
1741:
Arns, Arne; Dangendorf, Sönke; Jensen, Jürgen; Talke, Stefan; Bender, Jens; Pattiaratchi, Charitha (2017-01-06).
109:
93:("running"), referring to the rotary tides which circulate around amphidromic points. It was first discovered by
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2644:
1823:
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151:
to Peru, the tide propagates southward, while from Baja
California to Alaska the tide propagates northward.
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17:
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Modeling coastal circulation in Norway using a high-resolution 4D-Var ocean assimilation system
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In an infinitely long channel, which can be viewed upon as a simplified approximation of the
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The degree of displacement on the northern hemisphere for the first amphidrome is given by:
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1982:
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8:
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Furthermore, a study has shown than there is a pattern of amphidrome movement related to
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128:— which rotates around the amphidromic point. At the amphidromic points of the dominant
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Firstly, the distance between amphidromic points is dependent on the water depth:
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310:. As a result of this geostrophic balance, Kelvin waves (originally described by
121:
94:
913:"Tides in two easy pieces - Earth 540: Essentials of Oceanography for Educators"
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2012:
1947:
1922:
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615:
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248:
82:
30:"Amphidrome" redirects here. For the former stadium in Houghton, Michigan, see
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1669:
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1121:
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Where Îł is the displacement of the amphidrome from the centre of the channel (
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331:
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231:. The waves reflect due to changes in water depth (for example when entering
188:
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113:
1514:
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1208:
582:. The maximum displacement of the amphidrome from the centre coincides with
3028:
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2916:
2867:
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2740:
2715:
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2674:
2391:
2281:
2221:
2007:
1917:
1892:
1794:
1743:"Sea-level rise induced amplification of coastal protection design heights"
1718:
1694:"Spatial Variability of Sea Level Rise in Twenty-First Century Projections"
1693:
1005:
692:
583:
147:
98:
3018:
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2544:
2484:
2451:
2441:
2436:
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2256:
2216:
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2181:
2064:
2037:
2017:
1977:
1942:
1620:
1595:
866:, Scientific Visualization Studio, and Television Production NASA-TV/GSFC
818:
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247:
and the points at which the two waves cancel each other out are known as
180:
172:
74:
31:
1815:
2836:
2684:
2659:
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2421:
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2126:
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1972:
801:
741:
704:
686:
208:
37:
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1767:
1692:
Yin, Jianjun; Griffies, Stephen M.; Stouffer, Ronald J. (2010-09-01).
2908:
2770:
2755:
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2514:
2353:
2348:
2131:
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1987:
1907:
1897:
1854:
1387:
1235:
791:
735:
672:
654:
579:
244:
240:
102:
62:
526:{\displaystyle \gamma =-{\frac {{\sqrt {gD}}\cdot \ln \alpha }{2f}}}
195:(~3000 km in the open ocean), and shallow, as the water depth (
3003:
2725:
2584:
2476:
2466:
2411:
1887:
1442:"Tidal amphidrome movement and energy dissipation in the Irish Sea"
363:
Figure 2 shows that the first node of the total wave is located at
199:, on average ~4 kilometre deep) in the ocean is much smaller (i.e.
988:
963:
2872:
2862:
2032:
2002:
1258:
Toffoli, Alessandro; Bitner-Gregersen, Elzbieta M. (2017-03-06),
785:
352:
894:
877:
571:
is to the left of the incident wave on the northern hemisphere.
2579:
1992:
795:
779:
757:
753:
747:
660:
384:
2941:
2760:
2539:
2494:
1645:"Sea-Level Rise from the Late 19th to the Early 21st Century"
823:
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191:). These tidal waves can be considered wide, relative to the
176:
1266:, Chichester, UK: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, pp. 1–8,
2373:
859:
855:
851:
575:
271:λ of the total wave, followed by the next node reoccurring
168:
70:
1740:
863:
164:
117:
605:
227:
In real oceans, the tides cannot endlessly propagate as
1257:
858:. Redistribute with credit to R. Ray, as well as NASA-
728:
876:
Desplanque, Con; Mossman, David J. (1 January 2004).
567:
will be negative. Hence the amphidromic displacement
477:
398:
215:) which is in the order of thousands of kilometres.
1691:
1260:"Types of Ocean Surface Waves, Wave Classification"
1535:
614:, the oceans in the world are becoming subject to
525:
423:
154:
105:and found that the lines must meet at some point.
2789:North West Shelf Operational Oceanographic System
1536:Sindhu, B.; Unnikrishnan, A. S. (December 2013).
1264:Encyclopedia of Maritime and Offshore Engineering
875:
358:
3086:
1590:
2779:Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis
1538:"Characteristics of Tides in the Bay of Bengal"
1207:Charette, Matthew; Smith, Walter (2010-06-01).
679:
1643:Church, John A.; White, Neil J. (2011-03-30).
641:
1831:
1206:
1119:
849:TOPEX/Poseidon: Revealing Hidden Tidal Energy
235:) and at coastal boundaries. The result is a
171:. This gravitational attraction results in a
1420:: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (
424:{\displaystyle \lambda ={\sqrt {gD}}\cdot T}
27:Location at which there is little or no tide
1642:
653:Based on Figure 1, there are the following
302:. The resulting slope develops until it is
1838:
1824:
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932:
321:
261:λ resonator. The first node is located at
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1784:
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1668:
1619:
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1234:
1224:
1126:. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
987:
907:
905:
893:
373:λ with reoccurring nodes at intervals of
1596:"Sea level rise and its coastal impacts"
1338:
659:
217:
36:
1594:; Cozannet, Gonéri Le (February 2014).
1120:Pugh, David; Woodworth, Philip (2014).
834:
14:
3087:
2110:one-dimensional Saint-Venant equations
1299:
1051:: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (
902:
345:
306:with the Coriolis force; resulting in
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1435:
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1202:
1200:
1115:
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1111:
1109:
1107:
1105:
1103:
961:
657:and anticlockwise amphidromic points:
606:Amphidromic points and sea level rise
124:, creates a wave pattern — called an
3057:
1439:
1168:Encyclopedia of Atmospheric Sciences
1161:
1157:
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1101:
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664:Figure 3. Amphidromic system of the
146:, is the largest tidal constituent.
1489:Murty, T. S.; Henry, R. F. (1983).
729:Counterclockwise amphidromic points
543:is the gravitational acceleration,
159:Tides are generated as a result of
24:
2937:National Oceanographic Data Center
2364:World Ocean Circulation Experiment
2252:Global Ocean Data Analysis Project
1467:10.1111/j.1365-246x.1981.tb02763.x
1428:
1385:
1197:
25:
3111:
2784:Global Sea Level Observing System
1446:Geophysical Journal International
1148:
1080:
108:Amphidromic points occur because
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3056:
3047:
3046:
2242:Geochemical Ocean Sections Study
2158:
2147:
1170:, Elsevier, pp. 1062–1068,
933:Cartwright, David Edgar (2000).
586:, whereas the minimum occurs at
2972:Ocean thermal energy conversion
2695:Vine–Matthews–Morley hypothesis
1801:
1734:
1685:
1636:
1584:
1529:
1495:Journal of Geophysical Research
1482:
1379:
1332:
1293:
1251:
962:Berry, Michael (January 2000).
155:Formation of amphidromic points
1176:10.1016/b0-12-227090-8/00191-3
1059:
1020:
955:
926:
869:
841:
359:Position of amphidromic points
137:"principal lunar semi-diurnal"
13:
1:
1386:E., Gill, Aan (3 June 2016).
1318:10.1126/science.134.3488.1412
1272:10.1002/9781118476406.emoe077
1209:"The Volume of Earth's Ocean"
2232:El Niño–Southern Oscillation
2202:Craik–Leibovich vortex force
1958:Luke's variational principle
1562:10.1080/01490419.2013.781088
1491:"Tides in the Bay of Bengal"
1339:Phillips, Norman A. (1963).
1300:Hersey, J. B. (1961-11-03).
680:Clockwise amphidromic points
193:Rossby radius of deformation
120:and bays, combined with the
7:
935:Tides: A Scientific History
812:
563:will be smaller than 1 and
10:
3116:
2297:Ocean dynamical thermostat
2145:
1440:Pugh, D. T. (1981-11-01).
1389:Atmosphere--Ocean Dynamics
939:Cambridge University Press
439:gravitational acceleration
29:
3042:
2881:
2855:
2832:Ocean acoustic tomography
2817:
2769:
2708:
2645:Mohorovičić discontinuity
2603:
2475:
2372:
2237:General circulation model
2167:
1873:Benjamin–Feir instability
1853:
1670:10.1007/s10712-011-9119-1
964:"Making waves in physics"
598:due to friction is high.
2962:Ocean surface topography
2337:Thermohaline circulation
2327:Subsurface ocean current
2267:Hydrothermal circulation
2100:Wave–current interaction
1878:Boussinesq approximation
1132:10.1017/cbo9781139235778
847:Picture credit: R. Ray,
612:greenhouse gas emissions
161:gravitational attraction
2999:Sea surface temperature
2982:Outline of oceanography
2177:Atmospheric circulation
2115:shallow water equations
2105:Waves and shallow water
1998:Significant wave height
1515:10.1029/jc088ic10p06069
1365:10.1029/rg001i002p00123
1226:10.5670/oceanog.2010.51
445:is the water depth and
322:Infinitely long channel
97:, who extrapolated the
2994:Sea surface microlayer
2359:Wind generated current
1719:10.1175/2010jcli3533.1
676:
527:
425:
224:
135:In most locations the
101:from the coast of the
79:peak-to-peak amplitude
50:
2827:Deep scattering layer
2809:World Geodetic System
2317:Princeton Ocean Model
2197:Coriolis–Stokes force
1847:Physical oceanography
1649:Surveys in Geophysics
1345:Reviews of Geophysics
663:
528:
426:
338:and clockwise in the
221:
40:
2847:Underwater acoustics
2407:Perigean spring tide
2272:Langmuir circulation
1983:Rossby-gravity waves
1621:10.1002/2013ef000188
1341:"Geostrophic motion"
835:References and notes
547:is the water depth,
475:
396:
67:harmonic constituent
3009:Science On a Sphere
2615:Convergent boundary
2287:Modular Ocean Model
2247:Geostrophic current
1963:Mild-slope equation
1759:2017NatSR...740171A
1710:2010JCli...23.4585Y
1661:2011SGeo...32..585C
1612:2014EaFut...2...15C
1554:2013MarGe..36..377S
1507:1983JGR....88.6069M
1458:1981GeoJ...67..515P
1357:1963RvGSP...1..123P
1067:"Untitled Document"
980:2000Natur.403...21B
671:constituent in the
346:Semi-enclosed basin
340:southern hemisphere
336:northern hemisphere
308:geostrophic balance
251:. Figure 2 shows a
207:<1/20) than the
2665:Seafloor spreading
2655:Outer trench swell
2620:Divergent boundary
2520:Continental margin
2505:Carbonate platform
2402:Lunitidal interval
1747:Scientific Reports
1698:Journal of Climate
677:
596:energy dissipation
553:Coriolis frequency
523:
421:
225:
126:amphidromic system
51:
3082:
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3074:Oceans portal
3034:World Ocean Atlas
3024:Underwater glider
2967:Ocean temperature
2630:Hydrothermal vent
2595:Submarine volcano
2530:Continental shelf
2510:Coastal geography
2500:Bathymetric chart
2382:Amphidromic point
2070:Wave nonlinearity
1928:Infragravity wave
1768:10.1038/srep40171
1704:(17): 4585–4607.
1399:978-1-4832-8158-2
1281:978-1-118-47635-2
1185:978-0-12-227090-1
1162:Wang, B. (2003),
1141:978-1-139-23577-8
1123:Sea-Level Science
948:978-0-521-79746-7
717:Galapagos Islands
649:tidal constituent
521:
498:
413:
300:pressure gradient
229:progressive waves
175:that acts on the
130:tidal constituent
55:amphidromic point
16:(Redirected from
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3060:
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3049:
2989:Pelagic sediment
2927:Marine pollution
2721:Deep ocean water
2590:Submarine canyon
2525:Continental rise
2417:Rule of twelfths
2332:Sverdrup balance
2262:Humboldt Current
2187:Boundary current
2162:
2151:
1968:Radiation stress
1938:Iribarren number
1913:Equatorial waves
1868:Ballantine scale
1863:Airy wave theory
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1655:(4–5): 585–602.
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991:
959:
953:
952:
930:
924:
923:
921:
919:
909:
900:
899:
897:
882:Atlantic Geology
873:
867:
845:
794:in southwestern
637:
636:
632:
627:
626:
622:
532:
530:
529:
524:
522:
520:
512:
499:
491:
488:
465:
464:
460:
430:
428:
427:
422:
414:
406:
382:
381:
377:
372:
371:
367:
290:
289:
285:
280:
279:
275:
270:
269:
265:
260:
259:
255:
57:, also called a
21:
3115:
3114:
3110:
3109:
3108:
3106:
3105:
3104:
3085:
3084:
3083:
3078:
3066:
3038:
2877:
2851:
2813:
2794:Sea-level curve
2765:
2704:
2690:Transform fault
2640:Mid-ocean ridge
2606:
2599:
2565:Oceanic plateau
2471:
2457:Tidal resonance
2427:Theory of tides
2368:
2277:Longshore drift
2227:Ekman transport
2163:
2157:
2156:
2155:
2154:
2153:
2152:
2143:
2095:Wave turbulence
2028:Trochoidal wave
1953:Longshore drift
1849:
1844:
1814:
1813:
1806:
1802:
1739:
1735:
1690:
1686:
1641:
1637:
1589:
1585:
1534:
1530:
1487:
1483:
1438:
1429:
1413:
1412:
1400:
1384:
1380:
1337:
1333:
1298:
1294:
1286:
1284:
1282:
1256:
1252:
1205:
1198:
1190:
1188:
1186:
1160:
1149:
1142:
1118:
1081:
1071:
1069:
1065:
1064:
1060:
1044:
1043:
1037:
1035:
1028:"Archived copy"
1026:
1025:
1021:
960:
956:
949:
941:. p. 243.
931:
927:
917:
915:
911:
910:
903:
874:
870:
846:
842:
837:
829:Theory of tides
815:
800:The islands of
774:midway between
764:Leeward Islands
731:
723:Queen Maud Land
682:
670:
651:
648:
634:
630:
629:
624:
620:
619:
608:
513:
490:
489:
487:
476:
473:
472:
462:
458:
457:
405:
397:
394:
393:
379:
375:
374:
369:
365:
364:
361:
348:
324:
287:
283:
282:
277:
273:
272:
267:
263:
262:
257:
253:
252:
187:(also known as
157:
145:
122:Coriolis effect
95:William Whewell
89:("around") and
47:
35:
28:
23:
22:
15:
12:
11:
5:
3113:
3103:
3102:
3097:
3095:Wave mechanics
3080:
3079:
3077:
3076:
3064:
3054:
3043:
3040:
3039:
3037:
3036:
3031:
3026:
3021:
3016:
3014:Stratification
3011:
3006:
3001:
2996:
2991:
2986:
2985:
2984:
2974:
2969:
2964:
2959:
2954:
2949:
2944:
2939:
2934:
2929:
2924:
2919:
2914:
2906:
2904:Color of water
2901:
2899:Benthic lander
2896:
2891:
2885:
2883:
2879:
2878:
2876:
2875:
2870:
2865:
2859:
2857:
2853:
2852:
2850:
2849:
2844:
2839:
2834:
2829:
2823:
2821:
2815:
2814:
2812:
2811:
2806:
2804:Sea level rise
2801:
2799:Sea level drop
2796:
2791:
2786:
2781:
2775:
2773:
2767:
2766:
2764:
2763:
2758:
2753:
2748:
2743:
2738:
2733:
2728:
2723:
2718:
2712:
2710:
2706:
2705:
2703:
2702:
2697:
2692:
2687:
2682:
2677:
2672:
2667:
2662:
2657:
2652:
2647:
2642:
2637:
2635:Marine geology
2632:
2627:
2622:
2617:
2611:
2609:
2601:
2600:
2598:
2597:
2592:
2587:
2582:
2577:
2575:Passive margin
2572:
2570:Oceanic trench
2567:
2562:
2557:
2552:
2547:
2542:
2537:
2532:
2527:
2522:
2517:
2512:
2507:
2502:
2497:
2492:
2487:
2481:
2479:
2473:
2472:
2470:
2469:
2464:
2459:
2454:
2449:
2444:
2439:
2434:
2429:
2424:
2419:
2414:
2409:
2404:
2399:
2394:
2389:
2384:
2378:
2376:
2370:
2369:
2367:
2366:
2361:
2356:
2351:
2346:
2345:
2344:
2334:
2329:
2324:
2319:
2314:
2309:
2304:
2302:Ocean dynamics
2299:
2294:
2289:
2284:
2279:
2274:
2269:
2264:
2259:
2254:
2249:
2244:
2239:
2234:
2229:
2224:
2219:
2214:
2209:
2204:
2199:
2194:
2192:Coriolis force
2189:
2184:
2179:
2173:
2171:
2165:
2164:
2146:
2144:
2142:
2141:
2140:
2139:
2129:
2124:
2119:
2118:
2117:
2112:
2102:
2097:
2092:
2087:
2082:
2077:
2072:
2067:
2062:
2057:
2052:
2047:
2042:
2041:
2040:
2030:
2025:
2020:
2015:
2013:Stokes problem
2010:
2005:
2000:
1995:
1990:
1985:
1980:
1975:
1970:
1965:
1960:
1955:
1950:
1948:Kinematic wave
1945:
1940:
1935:
1930:
1925:
1920:
1915:
1910:
1905:
1900:
1895:
1890:
1885:
1880:
1875:
1870:
1865:
1859:
1857:
1851:
1850:
1843:
1842:
1835:
1828:
1820:
1812:
1811:
1800:
1733:
1684:
1635:
1600:Earth's Future
1592:Cazenave, Anny
1583:
1548:(4): 377–407.
1542:Marine Geodesy
1528:
1481:
1452:(2): 515–527.
1427:
1398:
1378:
1351:(2): 123–176.
1331:
1312:(3488): 1412.
1292:
1280:
1250:
1219:(2): 112–114.
1196:
1184:
1164:"Kelvin Waves"
1147:
1140:
1079:
1058:
1019:
954:
947:
925:
901:
868:
839:
838:
836:
833:
832:
831:
826:
821:
814:
811:
810:
809:
798:
788:
782:
776:Rio de Janeiro
772:
766:
760:
750:
744:
738:
730:
727:
726:
725:
719:
713:
707:
701:
695:
689:
681:
678:
668:
650:
646:
640:
616:sea-level rise
607:
604:
578:cycles in the
519:
516:
511:
508:
505:
502:
497:
494:
486:
483:
480:
420:
417:
412:
409:
404:
401:
360:
357:
347:
344:
328:Atlantic Ocean
323:
320:
296:Coriolis force
189:Sverdrup waves
185:Poincaré waves
156:
153:
143:
114:oceanic basins
45:
41:Figure 1. The
26:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
3112:
3101:
3098:
3096:
3093:
3092:
3090:
3075:
3070:
3065:
3063:
3055:
3053:
3045:
3044:
3041:
3035:
3032:
3030:
3027:
3025:
3022:
3020:
3017:
3015:
3012:
3010:
3007:
3005:
3002:
3000:
2997:
2995:
2992:
2990:
2987:
2983:
2980:
2979:
2978:
2975:
2973:
2970:
2968:
2965:
2963:
2960:
2958:
2955:
2953:
2950:
2948:
2945:
2943:
2940:
2938:
2935:
2933:
2930:
2928:
2925:
2923:
2922:Marine energy
2920:
2918:
2915:
2913:
2912:
2907:
2905:
2902:
2900:
2897:
2895:
2892:
2890:
2889:Acidification
2887:
2886:
2884:
2880:
2874:
2871:
2869:
2866:
2864:
2861:
2860:
2858:
2854:
2848:
2845:
2843:
2842:SOFAR channel
2840:
2838:
2835:
2833:
2830:
2828:
2825:
2824:
2822:
2820:
2816:
2810:
2807:
2805:
2802:
2800:
2797:
2795:
2792:
2790:
2787:
2785:
2782:
2780:
2777:
2776:
2774:
2772:
2768:
2762:
2759:
2757:
2754:
2752:
2749:
2747:
2744:
2742:
2739:
2737:
2734:
2732:
2729:
2727:
2724:
2722:
2719:
2717:
2714:
2713:
2711:
2707:
2701:
2698:
2696:
2693:
2691:
2688:
2686:
2683:
2681:
2678:
2676:
2673:
2671:
2668:
2666:
2663:
2661:
2658:
2656:
2653:
2651:
2650:Oceanic crust
2648:
2646:
2643:
2641:
2638:
2636:
2633:
2631:
2628:
2626:
2625:Fracture zone
2623:
2621:
2618:
2616:
2613:
2612:
2610:
2608:
2602:
2596:
2593:
2591:
2588:
2586:
2583:
2581:
2578:
2576:
2573:
2571:
2568:
2566:
2563:
2561:
2560:Oceanic basin
2558:
2556:
2553:
2551:
2548:
2546:
2543:
2541:
2538:
2536:
2533:
2531:
2528:
2526:
2523:
2521:
2518:
2516:
2513:
2511:
2508:
2506:
2503:
2501:
2498:
2496:
2493:
2491:
2490:Abyssal plain
2488:
2486:
2483:
2482:
2480:
2478:
2474:
2468:
2465:
2463:
2460:
2458:
2455:
2453:
2450:
2448:
2445:
2443:
2440:
2438:
2435:
2433:
2430:
2428:
2425:
2423:
2420:
2418:
2415:
2413:
2410:
2408:
2405:
2403:
2400:
2398:
2397:Internal tide
2395:
2393:
2390:
2388:
2385:
2383:
2380:
2379:
2377:
2375:
2371:
2365:
2362:
2360:
2357:
2355:
2352:
2350:
2347:
2343:
2340:
2339:
2338:
2335:
2333:
2330:
2328:
2325:
2323:
2320:
2318:
2315:
2313:
2310:
2308:
2305:
2303:
2300:
2298:
2295:
2293:
2292:Ocean current
2290:
2288:
2285:
2283:
2280:
2278:
2275:
2273:
2270:
2268:
2265:
2263:
2260:
2258:
2255:
2253:
2250:
2248:
2245:
2243:
2240:
2238:
2235:
2233:
2230:
2228:
2225:
2223:
2220:
2218:
2215:
2213:
2210:
2208:
2205:
2203:
2200:
2198:
2195:
2193:
2190:
2188:
2185:
2183:
2180:
2178:
2175:
2174:
2172:
2170:
2166:
2161:
2150:
2138:
2135:
2134:
2133:
2130:
2128:
2125:
2123:
2120:
2116:
2113:
2111:
2108:
2107:
2106:
2103:
2101:
2098:
2096:
2093:
2091:
2090:Wave shoaling
2088:
2086:
2083:
2081:
2078:
2076:
2073:
2071:
2068:
2066:
2063:
2061:
2058:
2056:
2053:
2051:
2050:Ursell number
2048:
2046:
2043:
2039:
2036:
2035:
2034:
2031:
2029:
2026:
2024:
2021:
2019:
2016:
2014:
2011:
2009:
2006:
2004:
2001:
1999:
1996:
1994:
1991:
1989:
1986:
1984:
1981:
1979:
1976:
1974:
1971:
1969:
1966:
1964:
1961:
1959:
1956:
1954:
1951:
1949:
1946:
1944:
1941:
1939:
1936:
1934:
1933:Internal wave
1931:
1929:
1926:
1924:
1921:
1919:
1916:
1914:
1911:
1909:
1906:
1904:
1901:
1899:
1896:
1894:
1891:
1889:
1886:
1884:
1883:Breaking wave
1881:
1879:
1876:
1874:
1871:
1869:
1866:
1864:
1861:
1860:
1858:
1856:
1852:
1848:
1841:
1836:
1834:
1829:
1827:
1822:
1821:
1818:
1809:
1804:
1796:
1792:
1787:
1782:
1778:
1774:
1769:
1764:
1760:
1756:
1752:
1748:
1744:
1737:
1729:
1725:
1720:
1715:
1711:
1707:
1703:
1699:
1695:
1688:
1680:
1676:
1671:
1666:
1662:
1658:
1654:
1650:
1646:
1639:
1631:
1627:
1622:
1617:
1613:
1609:
1605:
1601:
1597:
1593:
1587:
1579:
1575:
1571:
1567:
1563:
1559:
1555:
1551:
1547:
1543:
1539:
1532:
1524:
1520:
1516:
1512:
1508:
1504:
1501:(C10): 6069.
1500:
1496:
1492:
1485:
1477:
1473:
1468:
1463:
1459:
1455:
1451:
1447:
1443:
1436:
1434:
1432:
1423:
1417:
1409:
1405:
1401:
1395:
1391:
1390:
1382:
1374:
1370:
1366:
1362:
1358:
1354:
1350:
1346:
1342:
1335:
1327:
1323:
1319:
1315:
1311:
1307:
1303:
1296:
1283:
1277:
1273:
1269:
1265:
1261:
1254:
1246:
1242:
1237:
1232:
1227:
1222:
1218:
1214:
1210:
1203:
1201:
1187:
1181:
1177:
1173:
1169:
1165:
1158:
1156:
1154:
1152:
1143:
1137:
1133:
1129:
1125:
1124:
1116:
1114:
1112:
1110:
1108:
1106:
1104:
1102:
1100:
1098:
1096:
1094:
1092:
1090:
1088:
1086:
1084:
1068:
1062:
1054:
1048:
1034:on 2010-06-02
1033:
1029:
1023:
1015:
1011:
1007:
1003:
999:
995:
990:
989:10.1038/47364
985:
981:
977:
973:
969:
965:
958:
950:
944:
940:
936:
929:
914:
908:
906:
896:
891:
887:
883:
879:
872:
865:
861:
857:
853:
850:
844:
840:
830:
827:
825:
822:
820:
817:
816:
807:
803:
799:
797:
793:
789:
787:
783:
781:
777:
773:
771:
767:
765:
761:
759:
755:
751:
749:
745:
743:
739:
737:
733:
732:
724:
720:
718:
714:
712:
711:Easter Island
708:
706:
702:
700:
696:
694:
690:
688:
685:north of the
684:
683:
674:
667:
662:
658:
656:
645:
639:
617:
613:
603:
599:
597:
593:
589:
585:
581:
577:
572:
570:
566:
562:
558:
554:
550:
546:
542:
538:
533:
517:
514:
509:
506:
503:
500:
495:
492:
484:
481:
478:
470:
467:
454:
453:of the wave.
452:
448:
444:
440:
436:
431:
418:
415:
410:
407:
402:
399:
391:
388:
386:
356:
354:
343:
341:
337:
333:
332:Pacific Ocean
329:
319:
317:
316:standing wave
313:
309:
305:
301:
297:
292:
281:λ farther at
250:
246:
242:
238:
234:
230:
220:
216:
214:
210:
206:
202:
198:
194:
190:
186:
182:
178:
174:
170:
166:
162:
152:
149:
148:Cotidal lines
142:
138:
133:
131:
127:
123:
119:
115:
111:
106:
104:
100:
99:cotidal lines
96:
92:
88:
84:
80:
76:
72:
68:
64:
60:
56:
44:
39:
33:
19:
3029:Water column
2977:Oceanography
2952:Observations
2947:Explorations
2917:Marginal sea
2910:
2868:OSTM/Jason-2
2700:Volcanic arc
2675:Slab suction
2392:Head of tide
2381:
2282:Loop Current
2222:Ekman spiral
2008:Stokes drift
1918:Gravity wave
1893:Cnoidal wave
1803:
1753:(1): 40171.
1750:
1746:
1736:
1701:
1697:
1687:
1652:
1648:
1638:
1606:(2): 15–34.
1603:
1599:
1586:
1545:
1541:
1531:
1498:
1494:
1484:
1449:
1445:
1392:. Elsevier.
1388:
1381:
1348:
1344:
1334:
1309:
1305:
1295:
1285:, retrieved
1263:
1253:
1216:
1213:Oceanography
1212:
1189:, retrieved
1167:
1122:
1070:. Retrieved
1061:
1036:. Retrieved
1032:the original
1022:
974:(6765): 21.
971:
967:
957:
934:
928:
916:. Retrieved
885:
881:
871:
843:
770:Newfoundland
715:west of the
693:Enderby Land
665:
652:
643:
609:
600:
591:
584:spring tides
573:
568:
564:
560:
556:
548:
544:
540:
536:
534:
471:
468:
455:
446:
442:
434:
432:
392:
389:
362:
349:
325:
293:
226:
212:
204:
200:
196:
181:Kelvin waves
158:
140:
134:
125:
110:interference
107:
90:
86:
58:
54:
52:
42:
3019:Thermocline
2736:Mesopelagic
2709:Ocean zones
2680:Slab window
2545:Hydrography
2485:Abyssal fan
2452:Tidal range
2442:Tidal power
2437:Tidal force
2322:Rip current
2257:Gulf Stream
2217:Ekman layer
2207:Downwelling
2182:Baroclinity
2169:Circulation
2065:Wave height
2055:Wave action
2038:megatsunami
2018:Stokes wave
1978:Rossby wave
1943:Kelvin wave
1923:Green's law
895:10.4138/729
819:Kelvin wave
806:New Zealand
576:spring-neap
312:Lord Kelvin
304:equilibrium
173:tidal force
139:, known as
75:tidal range
32:Dee Stadium
18:Amphidromic
3089:Categories
2957:Reanalysis
2856:Satellites
2837:Sofar bomb
2685:Subduction
2660:Ridge push
2555:Ocean bank
2535:Contourite
2462:Tide gauge
2447:Tidal race
2432:Tidal bore
2422:Slack tide
2387:Earth tide
2307:Ocean gyre
2127:Wind setup
2122:Wind fetch
2085:Wave setup
2080:Wave radar
2075:Wave power
1973:Rogue wave
1903:Dispersion
1287:2021-05-15
1191:2021-05-15
1038:2010-08-23
802:Madagascar
742:New Guinea
705:New Guinea
687:Seychelles
233:shelf seas
209:wavelength
59:tidal node
2819:Acoustics
2771:Sea level
2670:Slab pull
2607:tectonics
2515:Cold seep
2477:Landforms
2354:Whirlpool
2349:Upwelling
2132:Wind wave
2060:Wave base
1988:Sea state
1908:Edge wave
1898:Cross sea
1777:2045-2322
1728:1520-0442
1679:0169-3298
1630:2328-4277
1570:0149-0419
1523:0148-0227
1476:0956-540X
1416:cite book
1408:952336940
1373:8755-1209
1326:0036-8075
1245:1042-8275
1236:1912/3862
998:1476-4687
792:Eigersund
762:near the
740:north of
736:Sri Lanka
721:north of
709:south of
673:North Sea
655:clockwise
580:Irish Sea
510:α
507:
501:⋅
485:−
479:γ
416:⋅
400:λ
318:pattern.
245:antinodes
241:resonance
237:reflected
103:North Sea
63:amplitude
49:together.
3052:Category
3004:Seawater
2731:Littoral
2726:Deep sea
2585:Seamount
2467:Tideline
2412:Rip tide
2342:shutdown
2312:Overflow
2045:Undertow
1888:Clapotis
1795:28057920
1578:53365068
1047:cite web
1014:38351145
1006:10638732
813:See also
790:Outside
784:east of
768:east of
752:between
703:east of
65:for one
3062:Commons
2932:Mooring
2882:Related
2873:Jason-3
2863:Jason-1
2746:Pelagic
2741:Oceanic
2716:Benthic
2033:Tsunami
2003:Soliton
1786:5216410
1755:Bibcode
1706:Bibcode
1657:Bibcode
1608:Bibcode
1550:Bibcode
1503:Bibcode
1454:Bibcode
1353:Bibcode
1306:Science
1072:21 July
976:Bibcode
918:21 July
862:, NASA-
786:Iceland
642:In the
633:⁄
623:⁄
551:is the
461:⁄
449:is the
437:is the
378:⁄
368:⁄
353:equator
286:⁄
276:⁄
266:⁄
256:⁄
163:by the
112:within
69:of the
2751:Photic
2580:Seabed
1993:Seiche
1793:
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968:Nature
945:
796:Norway
780:Angola
758:Hawaii
754:Mexico
748:Tahiti
451:period
433:Where
385:seabed
91:dromos
85:words
73:. The
3100:Tides
2942:Ocean
2911:Alvin
2761:Swash
2605:Plate
2550:Knoll
2540:Guyot
2495:Atoll
2374:Tides
2137:model
2023:Swell
1855:Waves
1574:S2CID
1010:S2CID
888:(1).
824:Tides
734:near
699:Perth
691:near
588:neaps
539:=0),
249:nodes
177:ocean
87:amphi
83:Greek
77:(the
2909:DSV
2894:Argo
2756:Surf
2212:Eddy
1791:PMID
1773:ISSN
1724:ISSN
1675:ISSN
1626:ISSN
1566:ISSN
1519:ISSN
1472:ISSN
1422:link
1404:OCLC
1394:ISBN
1369:ISSN
1322:ISSN
1276:ISBN
1241:ISSN
1180:ISBN
1136:ISBN
1074:2016
1053:link
1002:PMID
994:ISSN
943:ISBN
920:2016
860:GSFC
856:NASA
852:GSFC
804:and
778:and
756:and
697:off
555:and
330:and
183:and
169:Moon
167:and
118:seas
71:tide
1781:PMC
1763:doi
1714:doi
1665:doi
1616:doi
1558:doi
1511:doi
1462:doi
1361:doi
1314:doi
1310:134
1268:doi
1231:hdl
1221:doi
1172:doi
1128:doi
984:doi
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864:JPL
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380:2
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