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and dark patterns of indigo or black. Only the royal family wore the yellow, while nobility wore pale blue. On special occasions, the commoners were given permission to wear certain special colors. The women in the royal family were very particular about their kimono, and forbade anyone to copy the same kimono pattern style. The patterns painted on the kimono were usually birds, flowers, rivers, and clouds on silk, linen, and
243:. Each family had their own designs which they passed onto future generations. There were a total of 45 dyers, the best residing in the capital of Shuri. To make the stencils, thin sheets of mulberry paper were glued together with persimmon tannin, making them thick and durable. Then they were smoked and aged, and finally the designs were drawn onto the paper and cut. Making
179:
centuries, utilised fabric decoration techniques originating in these countries to create an independent style of dyework featuring nature-inspired designs reflecting the Ryukyu
Islands. The abundant flora and fauna gave the resulting fabric a strong natural influence, resulting in the development of the designs typically seen in
249:
kimono was labour-intensive, and only royalty or the wealthy could afford them. The designs were held under strict control, and the distinction between classes was easily recognized by the kimono worn. Patterns for the royal household were very bold and colorful, while the general public wore simple
178:
are thought to have originated in
Southeast Asia (possibly Java, or perhaps China or India), and arrived in the Ryukyu Kingdom through trade during the 14th century. The Ryukyu Kingdom, having a strong trade system between Korea, Japan, China and other Southeast Asian countries in the 15th and 16th
227:
and used in textile dyeing. To achieve the color white, ground chalk or powdered shells were used. Other colours were achieved using cochineal, vermilion, arsenic, and sulphur. Some patterns used up to 18 different colour applications. After the Ryukyu
Kingdom came under Japanese rule, the Ryukyu
207:
technique, the Ryukyu people invited foreign craftsmen to the island and had their own people travel abroad to master various craft techniques. The goods produced for the
Japanese by the Ryukyu people were also judged by an exacting and high standard set by the royal authorities, resulting in the
188:
In 1609, Japan invaded the Ryukyu
Kingdom, and trade with foreign countries was prohibited. Japan demanded tribute from the Ryukyu people in the form of handicraft production, and its people were forced to produce various fabrics, including the banana fibers cloths known as
474:
Stencil cutting:Mulberry papers are coated with persimmon tannin and sealed together to form a firm sheet. A design is drawn onto the paper directly or traced from another source. The details are cut with a small blade and afterwards it is coated again to keep it from
34:
291:
business flourished while the troops bought bingata postcards as souvenirs. Eiki
Shiroma's son, Eijun Shiroma, is continuing the family tradition as the 15th generation of his family to be practicing the techniques handed down since the time
481:
Freehand resist painting:If a large area is needed to be painted, a freehand technique is used to apply the rice-paste resist onto the fabric. The paste is put into a bag and squeezed onto the fabric.
680:
Lerner, M., Valenstein, S., Murch, A., Hearn, M., Ford, B., Mailey, J. (1983/1984). Far
Eastern Art, pp. 119-127. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved Aug 3, 2008, from JSTOR database.
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exported goods reaching a high level of craftsmanship that generated a strong desire for Ryukyu crafts and goods. In a report from a
Chinese envoy dated 1802, the writer speaks of the beautiful
800:
Mimura, K. (1994). Soetsu Yanagi and the Legacy of the
Unknown Craftsman. The Journal of Decorative and Propaganda Arts, Vol 20, pp. 209-223. Retrieved Aug 2, 2008, from JSTOR database.
234:
had come to a halt and the workers turned to working with the materials which were readily available. Indigo was all that was left, so production for the general public became popular.
214:
from
Okinawa, commenting that the flowers depicted in the fabric were so vibrant that the fabric must have been produced using a "production secret that they do not reveal to others".
164:" eventually began to refer to the colouring of cloth in general, including cochineal, yellow, indigo, and black dyes, which were applied on fabric over a rice-paste resist.
490:
Details:Details around the edges of each object are added to emphasise the image. Next the fabric is steamed so the colours will set into the fabric and then it is washed.
103:
period (14th century), when the island of Okinawa experienced an influx of foreign goods and manufacturing techniques. It is believed to have developed as a synthesis of
487:
Re-painting:To achieve a more vibrant colour the paints are added once more and this time rubbed into the cloth with a stiff brush made out of human hair.
228:
people could no longer trade for these pigments, and sought new ways to continue with their painting. Production of the finer and brighter varieties of
437:
is labour-intensive, with it taking three people three days to paint the material for just one kimono, and then a further month to finish it. Although
409:)". In recent years, variations of the pigments have been created, and hibiscus, deigo flowers and sugar cane leaves have been used in the designs.
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Painting:Prepared paints are painted onto the fabric starting from lighter to darker colours. One design can use from 9 to 18 different colours.
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Stencil resist painting:A special rice-paste made from boiled rice, rice bran and water is scraped across the top of the stencil on the cloth.
630:
Shuefftan, K. (n.d.). Ryukyu Bingata Dyeing. Association for the Promotion of Traditional Craft Industries. Retrieved Aug. 1, 2008, from,
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819:
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732:
Gross, J. (1985, Oct. 18). The New York Times. Retrieved Aug 3, 2008, from ProQuest Historical Newspapers The New York Times database.
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Exhibitions 2002 - Okinawa Now. (2008). Longhouse. Retrieved Aug 3, 2008, from www.longhouse.org/exhibitmain.ihtml?id=30&exlink=2
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Background resist:To paint the background a separate colour, the rice-paste resist is now placed on all the previously painted areas.
652:
138:
was noted in the early 20th century Okinawan usage by Dr. Yoshitaro Kamakura, a Japanese scholar, to refer to painting with dyes.
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typically features a busy pattern of repeating nature motifs such as fish, flowers and fauna in a number of bright colours.
691:
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Kyōto Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan, & Kawakita, M. (1978). Craft treasures of Okinawa. Tokyo: Kodansha International.
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stencils which had been taken by collectors and Japanese soldiers. He found some and brought the art back to life. The
88:
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was produced under the patronage of the Ryukyu Kingdom. Eijun's works can still be seen today at his Shimroma Studio.
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Bingata, Ryukyu Indigo and Uji Dyes. (2005). Okinawa Convention & Visitors Bureau. Retrieved Aug 3, 2008, from
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Background painting:The entire background of the fabric is painted with a wide brush or dipped in a dye bath.
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was then defined by Kamakura after he had studied the ancient records as connoting cochineal red with
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Charles, B. (2006). Colorful Bingata an Okinawa Tradition. Japan Update. Retrieved Aug 3, 2008, from
269:, much was lost, and production stopped due to the destruction of the shops. After the war, a former
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Kawakami, S. (2007). Ryukyu and Ainu Textiles. Kyoto National Museum. Retrieved Aug 3, 2008, from
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Okinawa's Dyed and Woven Textiles - Bingata. (2003). Wonder Okinawa. Retrieved Aug 3, 2008, from
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1984:
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https://web.archive.org/web/20060331065841/http://www.wonder-okinawa.jp/010/eng/002/index.html
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Wada, I. (2003). Kimono Flea Market Ichiroya. Newsletter, No19. Retrieved Aug 2, 2008, from
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692:"Bingata, Ryukyu Indigo and Uji Dyes:: Mahae plus :: Okinawa Travel Information"
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542:. Philippe De Montebello. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. pp. 122–123.
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Hitchcock, J. (2007). The Colorful World of Bingata. Retrieved Aug 1, 2008, from
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Colour setting:The fabric is set in a steamer for an hour to let the colours set.
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Nakai, T. (1989). Dyeing originated in Okinawa. Mitsumura Suiko Shoin Co., Ltd.
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Traditional resist-dyed fabric originating in the Ryukyuan Islands in Japan
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http://www.oxfordartonline.com/subscriber/article/grove/art/T074794
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artist, Eiki Shiroma, went to mainland Japan in search of original
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Josef Kreiner. "Ryūkyū." In Grove Art Online. Oxford Art Online,
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can be found in The Journal of Decorative and Propaganda Arts.
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Special permission was given to only three families to produce
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Ryukyu Bingata. (1997). Kimono. Retrieved Aug 2, 2008, from
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http://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/dictio/data/senshoku/ryui.htm
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There are ten labour-intensive steps to producing Ryukyu
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kimono can cost about $ 500 and a silk kimono $ 1,000.
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http://www.kougei.or.jp/english/crafts/0211/f0211.html
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67:, literally "red style") is a traditional stencilled
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311:and dates to the late 15th century. The dyes for
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48:-dyed design of bamboo, cranes and plum blossoms
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449:T-shirts can be found for around $ 40 and
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502:Washing:The fabric is washed and dried.
307:piece known was found on the island of
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774:http://www.ichiroya.com/newsletter.htm
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443:kimono are hard to come by, hand-made
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455:curtains for around $ 200. A cotton
285:saw a new type of customer, and the
722:http://www.japanupdate.com/?id=6976
536:Metropolitan Museum of Art (1984).
91:and traditional arts performances.
13:
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539:Notable acquisitions, 1983-1984
872:description page with pictures
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812:(accessed August 1, 2008).
201:. In order to improve the
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1284:Glossary of dyeing terms
1104:Traditional textile dyes
283:U.S. occupation of Japan
172:The techniques used in
42:Ryukyuan dress showing
1985:Vinyl coated polyester
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659:. 1999. Archived from
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2861:Manufacturingindustry
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971:Reactive dye printing
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413:Manufacturing process
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2817:Holland & Sherry
657:Okinawa Times online
610:Yoshitaro Kamakura,
256:(a cloth woven from
2919:History of textiles
359:), and as pigment,
223:were imported from
2772:Woodblock printing
2301:Conductive textile
1470:Cedar bark textile
1111:Armenian cochineal
1032:
868:2018-10-14 at the
859:at Wonder Okinawa.
822:2018-10-14 at the
757:2016-02-21 at the
431:The production of
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344:Caesalpinia sappan
115:dyeing processes.
89:Ryukyuan festivals
73:Okinawa Prefecture
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2326:Lenticular fabric
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1975:Vegetable flannel
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332:Hypericum erectum
267:Battle of Okinawa
217:Pigments used in
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836:External links
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682:
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612:Ryukyu bingata
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506:An example of
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101:Ryūkyū Kingdom
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1565:Donegal tweed
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1520:Cloth of gold
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1370:Almerían silk
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1206:Tyrian purple
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1038:Types of dyes
1036:
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769:
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747:
738:
729:
723:
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698:on 2008-10-28
697:
693:
686:
677:
663:on 2007-10-24
662:
658:
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549:0-87099-387-9
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106:
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97:
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85:
79:
74:
70:
69:resist dyeing
62:
57:
56:
46:
41:
38:19th century
36:
28:
23:
19:
2883:Preservation
2790:Fabric mills
2767:Waxed cotton
2628:
2372:Bizarre silk
2130:Polar fleece
1865:Saga Nishiki
1860:Russell cord
1665:Harris tweed
1410:Brilliantine
1390:Bedford cord
1356:(Medriñaque)
1289:List of dyes
1161:Dyer's broom
1116:Black walnut
796:
746:
737:
728:
700:. Retrieved
696:the original
685:
676:
665:. Retrieved
661:the original
656:
611:
584:
538:
505:
463:
430:
424:bingata kobo
356:Myrica rubra
300:
264:
257:
236:
216:
187:
171:
122:
93:
54:
51:
18:
2893:Terminology
2878:Performance
2726:Rōketsuzome
2671:Heatsetting
2646:Calendering
2636:Bògòlanfini
2583:Spider silk
2397:Houndstooth
2392:Herringbone
2351:Windstopper
2196:Boiled wool
1715:Kente cloth
1705:Khaki drill
1685:Irish linen
1670:Herringbone
1535:Cotton duck
1495:Cheesecloth
1354:Abacá cloth
1070:Substantive
988:Rōketsuzome
981:Ring dyeing
301:The oldest
265:During the
259:musa basjoo
119:Terminology
2974:Categories
2827:Loro Piana
2822:Larusmiani
2755:Tsutsugaki
2743:Tenterhook
2651:Decatising
2528:Microfiber
2432:Tattersall
2412:Pinstripes
2387:Glen plaid
2311:E-textiles
2178:Cedar bark
2135:Terrycloth
2082:Pile woven
1970:Ultrasuede
1900:Seersucker
1825:Perpetuana
1750:Madapollam
1695:Kerseymere
1480:Char cloth
1435:Byrd Cloth
1415:Broadcloth
1400:Beta cloth
1246:Craft dyes
1007:Tsutsugaki
914:Techniques
702:2008-08-04
667:2008-08-04
516:References
397:Indian ink
323:(indigo),
2939:Shrinkage
2888:Recycling
2812:E. Thomas
2661:Finishing
2599:Finishing
2543:Polyester
2493:Eisengarn
2417:Polka dot
2283:Technical
2211:Milliskin
2150:Velveteen
2105:Crimplene
1920:Shot silk
1845:Rayadillo
1840:Rakematiz
1740:Longcloth
1660:Haircloth
1650:Grosgrain
1640:Grenadine
1630:Ghalamkar
1625:Georgette
1610:Gabardine
1485:Charmeuse
1405:Bombazine
1395:Bengaline
1380:Barkcloth
1277:Reference
1131:Cochineal
1121:Bloodroot
1090:Discharge
947:Kalamkari
367:cochineal
335:family),
123:The term
2929:Knitting
2832:Piacenza
2807:Dormeuil
2692:Katazome
2676:Indienne
2622:Beetling
2612:Androsia
2603:printing
2563:Sea silk
2538:Pashmina
2478:Cashmere
2422:Shweshwe
2360:Patterns
2346:SympaTex
2341:Stub-tex
2331:Silnylon
2321:Gore-Tex
2239:Bobbinet
2165:Nonwoven
2155:Zibeline
2120:Moquette
2100:Corduroy
2095:Chenille
2034:Figured
2015:Whipcord
1815:Paduasoy
1800:Osnaburg
1770:Nainsook
1760:Moleskin
1745:Mackinaw
1590:Eolienne
1550:Cretonne
1530:Corduroy
1465:Capilene
1460:Chambray
1440:C change
1375:Barathea
1365:Armazine
1201:Turmeric
1146:Dyewoods
1126:Brazilin
1085:Disperse
1060:Reactive
954:Katazome
866:Archived
820:Archived
755:Archived
558:11749880
475:bending.
407:aleurone
387:orpiment
377:cinnabar
350:yamamomo
309:Kumejima
262:fiber).
146:cinnabar
113:Javanese
61:Okinawan
2954:Weaving
2902:Related
2802:Cerruti
2666:Fulling
2641:Burnout
2629:Bingata
2578:Spandex
2458:Acrylic
2407:Paisley
2336:Spandex
2306:Darlexx
2296:Ban-Lon
2201:Coolmax
2188:Knitted
2115:Mockado
2110:Fustian
2063:Songket
2043:Brocade
2025:Zorbeez
1990:Viyella
1980:Ventile
1945:Ticking
1930:Taffeta
1890:Scarlet
1855:Ripstop
1820:Percale
1805:Ottoman
1795:Organza
1790:Organdy
1785:Oilskin
1775:Nankeen
1690:Jamdani
1655:Habutai
1635:Gingham
1605:Fustian
1600:Foulard
1595:Flannel
1585:Drugget
1525:Cordura
1500:Chiffon
1490:Charvet
1475:Challis
1450:Cambric
1425:Bunting
1420:Buckram
1385:Batiste
1263:Procion
1258:Inkodye
1225:History
1196:Saffron
1181:Logwood
1156:Gamboge
1136:Cudbear
1095:Pigment
1065:Solvent
1050:Natural
1000:Tie-dye
995:Shibori
966:Mordant
961:Leheria
855:Bingata
846:Bingata
509:bingata
467:bingata
458:bingata
446:bingata
440:bingata
434:bingata
362:shoenji
314:bingata
304:bingata
295:bingata
288:bingata
278:bingata
272:bingata
253:bashofu
246:bingata
240:bingata
231:bingata
220:bingata
211:bingata
204:bingata
185:today.
182:bingata
175:bingata
168:History
155:bingata
141:Bingata
126:bingata
109:Chinese
96:Bingata
84:Bingata
78:Bingata
55:Bingata
45:bingata
27:Bingata
2909:Dyeing
2868:Design
2842:Scabal
2683:Kasuri
2656:Devoré
2533:Olefin
2518:Mohair
2508:Kevlar
2488:Cotton
2468:Angora
2463:Alpaca
2402:Kelsch
2367:Argyle
2316:Gannex
2231:Netted
2221:Velour
2216:Jersey
2145:Velvet
2058:Lampas
2053:Damask
2048:Camlet
2020:Zephyr
2005:Waffle
2000:Wadmal
1955:Tucuyo
1940:Tartan
1905:Sendal
1875:Sateen
1870:Samite
1835:Poplin
1830:Pongee
1810:Oxford
1765:Muslin
1755:Madras
1680:Hodden
1675:Himroo
1575:Dowlas
1570:Dornix
1560:Dimity
1540:Coutil
1515:Cloqué
1510:Chintz
1455:Canvas
1445:Calico
1430:Burlap
1360:Aertex
1331:Fabric
1186:Madder
1176:Kermes
1171:Indigo
1151:Fustic
1075:Sulfur
976:Resist
938:Kasuri
926:Dyeing
907:Dyeing
614:, 1958
556:
546:
399:) and
347:) and
326:fukugi
225:Fukien
150:Fujian
111:, and
105:Indian
30:fabric
2934:Pandy
2914:Fiber
2852:Zegna
2779:Yūzen
2704:Moire
2617:Batik
2573:Sisal
2558:Rayon
2553:Ramie
2523:Nylon
2513:Linen
2473:Bashō
2452:Abacá
2382:Chiné
2377:Check
2269:Tulle
2264:Ninon
2125:Plush
2090:Baize
2070:Rinzu
2036:woven
2010:Wigan
1995:Voile
1965:Twill
1960:Tweed
1950:Toile
1925:Stuff
1915:Scrim
1910:Serge
1880:Satin
1780:Ninon
1735:Loden
1700:Khādī
1620:Gazar
1615:Gauze
1580:Drill
1555:Denim
1545:Crêpe
1505:Chino
1346:Woven
1338:Types
1253:Dylon
1166:Henna
1141:Cutch
1016:Yūzen
921:Batik
452:noren
402:gofun
382:sekio
40:ramie
2959:Yarn
2837:Reda
2588:Wool
2568:Silk
2548:Piña
2503:Jute
2498:Hemp
2483:Coir
2254:Mesh
2249:Lace
2173:Felt
1935:Tais
1885:Saye
1725:Lawn
1720:Lamé
1216:Woad
1211:Weld
1055:Acid
1045:Dyes
931:Ikat
554:OCLC
544:ISBN
392:sumi
198:kafu
195:and
192:jofu
2709:Nap
2601:and
1850:Rep
1268:Rit
1080:Vat
389:),
379:),
372:shu
369:),
338:suo
161:bin
2976::
780:^
765:^
711:^
655:.
638:^
619:^
593:^
566:^
552:.
524:^
470::
421:A
320:ai
133:紅型
107:,
75:.
65:紅型
63::
1323:e
1316:t
1309:v
899:e
892:t
885:v
791:.
705:.
670:.
560:.
405:(
395:(
385:(
375:(
365:(
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341:(
136:)
130:(
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