643:
2077:
2965:
2986:
2066:
2975:
1343:(the sum of the energies of the mean motion and of the wave motion) is conserved for a non-dissipative system, the energy of the wave motion is not conserved, since in general there can be an exchange of energy with the mean motion. However, wave action is a quantity which is conserved for the wave-part of the motion.
1156:
919:
1279:
982:
750:
1206:
1026:
858:
1010:
946:
80:
1217:
1311:
1337:
804:
1365:
The derivation of an exact wave-action equation for more general wave motion â not limited to slowly modulated waves, small-amplitude waves or (non-dissipative)
773:
2705:
2695:
1754:
955:
629:
2611:
2978:
2026:
1794:
708:
1542:
1167:
695:
2258:
1151:{\displaystyle {\frac {\partial }{\partial t}}\left({\frac {E}{\omega _{i}}}\right)+{\boldsymbol {\nabla }}\cdot \left=0,}
914:{\displaystyle {\frac {\partial }{\partial t}}{\mathcal {A}}+{\boldsymbol {\nabla }}\cdot {\boldsymbol {\mathcal {B}}}=0,}
1747:
1020:(by which name it has been referred to subsequently). For small-amplitude waves the conservation of wave action becomes:
2148:
2853:
2280:
2168:
662:
generates forecasts of wave conditions through the use of wave-action conservation and the wind-field forecasts (from
2700:
1723:
1560:
622:
2158:
2118:
991:
927:
2888:
1874:
36:
1274:{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {\mathcal {B}}}=\left({\boldsymbol {U}}+{\boldsymbol {c}}_{g}\right){\mathcal {A}},}
2968:
2561:
1740:
1605:
Grimshaw, R. (1984), "Wave action and waveâmean flow interaction, with application to stratified shear flows",
595:
846:
296:
133:
3011:
2016:
1287:
615:
336:
222:
1569:
Dewar, R.L. (1970), "Interaction between hydromagnetic waves and a timeâdependent, inhomogeneous medium",
1374:
291:
200:
83:
2076:
2213:
1320:
663:
2748:
2153:
2113:
1502:
806:
is the intrinsic frequency of the slowly modulated waves â intrinsic here implying: as observed in a
207:
2878:
2253:
2243:
2183:
1819:
1789:
1400:
502:
497:
286:
279:
112:
2915:
2898:
2735:
2228:
2093:
2031:
2021:
1914:
782:
647:
565:
560:
229:
2910:
2848:
2275:
1961:
117:
2743:
2725:
2233:
2128:
1763:
1394:
540:
158:
2930:
2763:
2466:
2323:
2188:
1899:
1692:
1683:(1965), "A general approach to linear and non-linear dispersive waves using a Lagrangian",
1642:
1614:
1578:
1514:
1483:
378:
195:
175:
163:
107:
8:
2925:
2810:
2805:
2531:
2203:
2163:
1879:
1664:(1962), "Energy and momentum in the theory of waves in plasmas", in Bershader, D. (ed.),
1471:
1366:
849:
838:
834:
671:
580:
428:
321:
27:
1696:
1646:
1626:
1618:
1582:
1518:
1487:
2868:
2581:
2571:
2536:
2436:
2421:
2318:
1012:. The description of waves in inhomogeneous and moving media was further elaborated by
807:
758:
679:
600:
234:
190:
185:
2950:
2940:
2883:
2863:
2546:
2511:
2446:
2426:
2416:
2298:
1986:
1844:
1719:
1711:
1680:
1669:
1661:
1594:
1556:
1538:
1346:
The equation for the conservation of wave action is for instance used extensively in
642:
217:
168:
2905:
2873:
2843:
2652:
2637:
2506:
2441:
2333:
2248:
2178:
2103:
1884:
1854:
1784:
1779:
1700:
1650:
1622:
1586:
1522:
1491:
842:
826:
818:
687:
555:
530:
443:
418:
413:
368:
2710:
2606:
2556:
2521:
2481:
2373:
2343:
2193:
2143:
2053:
2011:
1944:
1869:
1829:
1347:
659:
545:
469:
433:
383:
314:
303:
248:
150:
1635:
Proceedings of the Royal
Society of London A: Mathematical and Physical Sciences
1537:, Cambridge Monographs on Mechanics (2nd ed.), Cambridge University Press,
1507:
Proceedings of the Royal
Society of London A: Mathematical and Physical Sciences
3016:
2820:
2815:
2720:
2715:
2551:
2491:
2486:
2218:
2108:
1929:
1864:
1839:
1355:
1314:
651:
550:
408:
373:
274:
180:
2065:
1704:
1495:
1354:
as needed by mariners, the offshore industry and for coastal defense. Also in
3005:
2990:
2838:
2758:
2647:
2566:
2541:
2476:
2406:
2313:
2208:
2085:
2006:
1966:
1939:
1849:
1799:
1673:
1598:
590:
423:
2945:
2893:
2833:
2784:
2662:
2657:
2632:
2616:
2591:
2308:
2198:
2138:
1924:
1834:
1809:
1654:
1526:
575:
570:
535:
267:
2935:
2667:
2596:
2461:
2401:
2368:
2358:
2353:
2238:
2173:
2133:
2123:
2098:
1981:
1954:
1934:
1894:
1859:
977:{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {\nabla }}\cdot {\boldsymbol {\mathcal {B}}}}
585:
488:
1732:
2753:
2601:
2576:
2471:
2451:
2378:
2363:
2348:
2338:
2303:
2223:
2043:
2038:
2001:
1996:
1991:
1889:
1666:
Plasma
Hydromagnetics. Sixth Lockheed Symposium on Magnetohydrodynamics
985:
507:
403:
2985:
1590:
1505:; Garrett, C.J.R. (1968), "Wavetrains in inhomogeneous moving media",
2825:
2687:
2672:
2586:
2431:
2270:
2265:
2048:
1976:
1904:
1824:
1814:
1771:
1359:
1351:
1016:
for the case of small-amplitude waves; they also called the quantity
691:
479:
474:
308:
1633:
Hayes, W.D. (1970), "Conservation of action and modal wave action",
2920:
2642:
2501:
2393:
2383:
2328:
1804:
458:
363:
343:
329:
2789:
2779:
1949:
1919:
811:
212:
1339:
the mean velocity of the inhomogeneous moving medium. While the
2496:
1909:
776:
353:
2858:
2677:
2456:
2411:
825:
in the study of the (pseudo) energy and momentum of waves in
257:
2290:
1404:
949:
833:
derived the conservation of wave action â identified as an
683:
655:
393:
745:{\displaystyle {\mathcal {A}}={\frac {E}{\omega _{i}}},}
1201:{\displaystyle {\mathcal {A}}={\frac {E}{\omega _{i}}}}
1323:
1290:
1220:
1170:
1029:
994:
958:
930:
861:
785:
761:
711:
39:
1331:
1305:
1273:
1200:
1150:
1004:
976:
940:
913:
798:
767:
744:
74:
2706:North West Shelf Operational Oceanographic System
1501:
1436:
1013:
3003:
16:Conservable measure of the wave part of a motion
2696:Deep-ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunamis
1469:
1422:
1370:
1748:
1668:, Stanford University Press, pp. 47â57,
623:
1474:(1978), "On wave-action and its relatives",
1377:for the separation of wave and mean motion.
1005:{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {\mathcal {B}}}}
941:{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {\mathcal {B}}}}
1448:
1446:
1444:
75:{\displaystyle J=-D{\frac {d\varphi }{dx}}}
1755:
1741:
630:
616:
1762:
1116:
1660:
1604:
1441:
1432:
1430:
822:
641:
1710:
1679:
1325:
1293:
1246:
1237:
1223:
1101:
1092:
997:
969:
933:
897:
830:
3004:
2027:one-dimensional Saint-Venant equations
1532:
1736:
1632:
1568:
1550:
1452:
1427:
1416:
1306:{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {c}}_{g}}
2974:
1362:the concept of wave action is used.
1627:10.1146/annurev.fl.16.010184.000303
13:
2854:National Oceanographic Data Center
2281:World Ocean Circulation Experiment
2169:Global Ocean Data Analysis Project
1263:
1173:
1036:
1032:
879:
868:
864:
714:
14:
3028:
2701:Global Sea Level Observing System
1553:Wave interactions and fluid flows
1332:{\displaystyle {\boldsymbol {U}}}
2984:
2973:
2964:
2963:
2159:Geochemical Ocean Sections Study
2075:
2064:
1607:Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics
1074:
960:
888:
2889:Ocean thermal energy conversion
2612:VineâMatthewsâMorley hypothesis
1437:Bretherton & Garrett (1968)
1369:â was provided and analysed by
1014:Bretherton & Garrett (1968)
1555:, Cambridge University Press,
1387:
841:description of slowly varying
1:
1462:
1423:Andrews & McIntyre (1978)
1371:Andrews & McIntyre (1978)
658:'s Wavewatch III model. This
2149:El NiñoâSouthern Oscillation
2119:CraikâLeibovich vortex force
1875:Luke's variational principle
821:of a wave was introduced by
7:
1375:generalised Lagrangian mean
1373:using the framework of the
948:is the wave-action density
799:{\displaystyle \omega _{i}}
10:
3033:
2214:Ocean dynamical thermostat
2062:
1716:Linear and nonlinear waves
1685:Journal of Fluid Mechanics
1476:Journal of Fluid Mechanics
664:weather forecasting models
2959:
2798:
2772:
2749:Ocean acoustic tomography
2734:
2686:
2625:
2562:MohoroviÄiÄ discontinuity
2520:
2392:
2289:
2154:General circulation model
2084:
1790:BenjaminâFeir instability
1770:
1705:10.1017/S0022112065000745
1496:10.1017/S0022112078002785
654:on November 22, 2008, by
646:Five-day forecast of the
2879:Ocean surface topography
2254:Thermohaline circulation
2244:Subsurface ocean current
2184:Hydrothermal circulation
2017:Waveâcurrent interaction
1795:Boussinesq approximation
1401:National Weather Service
1380:
814:velocity of the motion.
134:ClausiusâDuhem (entropy)
84:Fick's laws of diffusion
2916:Sea surface temperature
2899:Outline of oceanography
2094:Atmospheric circulation
2032:shallow water equations
2022:Waves and shallow water
1915:Significant wave height
648:significant wave height
292:NavierâStokes equations
230:Material failure theory
2911:Sea surface microlayer
2276:Wind generated current
1718:, Wiley-Interscience,
1655:10.1098/rspa.1970.0205
1551:Craik, A.D.D. (1988),
1527:10.1098/rspa.1968.0034
1333:
1307:
1275:
1202:
1152:
1006:
978:
942:
915:
800:
775:is the intrinsic wave
769:
746:
667:
76:
2744:Deep scattering layer
2726:World Geodetic System
2234:Princeton Ocean Model
2114:CoriolisâStokes force
1764:Physical oceanography
1334:
1308:
1276:
1203:
1153:
1007:
979:
943:
916:
801:
770:
747:
645:
287:Bernoulli's principle
280:Archimedes' principle
77:
2764:Underwater acoustics
2324:Perigean spring tide
2189:Langmuir circulation
1900:Rossby-gravity waves
1535:Waves and mean flows
1367:conservative systems
1321:
1288:
1218:
1168:
1027:
992:
956:
928:
859:
783:
759:
709:
379:Cohesion (chemistry)
201:Infinitesimal strain
37:
3012:Continuum mechanics
2926:Science On a Sphere
2532:Convergent boundary
2204:Modular Ocean Model
2164:Geostrophic current
1880:Mild-slope equation
1697:1965JFM....22..273W
1647:1970RSPSA.320..187H
1619:1984AnRFM..16...11G
1583:1970PhFl...13.2710D
1533:BĂŒhler, O. (2014),
1519:1968RSPSA.302..529B
1488:1978JFM....89..647A
1396:WAVEWATCH III Model
839:averaged Lagrangian
835:adiabatic invariant
700:wave action density
680:conservable measure
672:continuum mechanics
297:Poiseuille equation
28:Continuum mechanics
22:Part of a series on
2582:Seafloor spreading
2572:Outer trench swell
2537:Divergent boundary
2437:Continental margin
2422:Carbonate platform
2319:Lunitidal interval
1455:, pp. 98â110)
1329:
1303:
1271:
1198:
1148:
1002:
974:
938:
911:
808:frame of reference
796:
765:
742:
668:
503:Magnetorheological
498:Electrorheological
235:Fracture mechanics
72:
2999:
2998:
2991:Oceans portal
2951:World Ocean Atlas
2941:Underwater glider
2884:Ocean temperature
2547:Hydrothermal vent
2512:Submarine volcano
2447:Continental shelf
2427:Coastal geography
2417:Bathymetric chart
2299:Amphidromic point
1987:Wave nonlinearity
1845:Infragravity wave
1641:(1541): 187â208,
1591:10.1063/1.1692854
1577:(11): 2710â2720,
1571:Physics of Fluids
1544:978-1-107-66966-6
1513:(1471): 529â554,
1196:
1132:
1064:
1043:
875:
768:{\displaystyle E}
737:
640:
639:
515:
514:
449:
448:
218:Contact mechanics
141:
140:
70:
3024:
2989:
2988:
2977:
2976:
2967:
2966:
2906:Pelagic sediment
2844:Marine pollution
2638:Deep ocean water
2507:Submarine canyon
2442:Continental rise
2334:Rule of twelfths
2249:Sverdrup balance
2179:Humboldt Current
2104:Boundary current
2079:
2068:
1885:Radiation stress
1855:Iribarren number
1830:Equatorial waves
1785:Ballantine scale
1780:Airy wave theory
1757:
1750:
1743:
1734:
1733:
1728:
1707:
1676:
1657:
1629:
1601:
1565:
1547:
1529:
1503:Bretherton, F.P.
1498:
1456:
1450:
1439:
1434:
1425:
1420:
1414:
1413:
1412:
1411:
1391:
1348:wind wave models
1338:
1336:
1335:
1330:
1328:
1312:
1310:
1309:
1304:
1302:
1301:
1296:
1280:
1278:
1277:
1272:
1267:
1266:
1260:
1256:
1255:
1254:
1249:
1240:
1227:
1226:
1214:
1210:
1207:
1205:
1204:
1199:
1197:
1195:
1194:
1182:
1177:
1176:
1164:
1160:
1157:
1155:
1154:
1149:
1138:
1134:
1133:
1131:
1130:
1118:
1115:
1111:
1110:
1109:
1104:
1095:
1077:
1069:
1065:
1063:
1062:
1050:
1044:
1042:
1031:
1011:
1009:
1008:
1003:
1001:
1000:
983:
981:
980:
975:
973:
972:
963:
947:
945:
944:
939:
937:
936:
920:
918:
917:
912:
901:
900:
891:
883:
882:
876:
874:
863:
810:moving with the
805:
803:
802:
797:
795:
794:
774:
772:
771:
766:
751:
749:
748:
743:
738:
736:
735:
723:
718:
717:
632:
625:
618:
464:
463:
429:Gay-Lussac's law
419:Combined gas law
369:Capillary action
254:
253:
97:
96:
81:
79:
78:
73:
71:
69:
61:
53:
19:
18:
3032:
3031:
3027:
3026:
3025:
3023:
3022:
3021:
3002:
3001:
3000:
2995:
2983:
2955:
2794:
2768:
2730:
2711:Sea-level curve
2682:
2621:
2607:Transform fault
2557:Mid-ocean ridge
2523:
2516:
2482:Oceanic plateau
2388:
2374:Tidal resonance
2344:Theory of tides
2285:
2194:Longshore drift
2144:Ekman transport
2080:
2074:
2073:
2072:
2071:
2070:
2069:
2060:
2012:Wave turbulence
1945:Trochoidal wave
1870:Longshore drift
1766:
1761:
1731:
1726:
1563:
1545:
1470:Andrews, D.G.;
1465:
1460:
1459:
1451:
1442:
1435:
1428:
1421:
1417:
1409:
1407:
1393:
1392:
1388:
1383:
1324:
1322:
1319:
1318:
1297:
1292:
1291:
1289:
1286:
1285:
1262:
1261:
1250:
1245:
1244:
1236:
1235:
1231:
1222:
1221:
1219:
1216:
1215:
1212:
1208:
1190:
1186:
1181:
1172:
1171:
1169:
1166:
1165:
1162:
1158:
1126:
1122:
1117:
1105:
1100:
1099:
1091:
1090:
1086:
1085:
1081:
1073:
1058:
1054:
1049:
1045:
1035:
1030:
1028:
1025:
1024:
996:
995:
993:
990:
989:
968:
967:
959:
957:
954:
953:
932:
931:
929:
926:
925:
896:
895:
887:
878:
877:
867:
862:
860:
857:
856:
845:wave trains in
823:Sturrock (1962)
790:
786:
784:
781:
780:
760:
757:
756:
731:
727:
722:
713:
712:
710:
707:
706:
660:wind wave model
636:
607:
606:
605:
525:
517:
516:
470:Viscoelasticity
461:
451:
450:
438:
388:
384:Surface tension
348:
251:
249:Fluid mechanics
241:
240:
239:
153:
151:Solid mechanics
143:
142:
94:
86:
62:
54:
52:
38:
35:
34:
17:
12:
11:
5:
3030:
3020:
3019:
3014:
2997:
2996:
2994:
2993:
2981:
2971:
2960:
2957:
2956:
2954:
2953:
2948:
2943:
2938:
2933:
2931:Stratification
2928:
2923:
2918:
2913:
2908:
2903:
2902:
2901:
2891:
2886:
2881:
2876:
2871:
2866:
2861:
2856:
2851:
2846:
2841:
2836:
2831:
2823:
2821:Color of water
2818:
2816:Benthic lander
2813:
2808:
2802:
2800:
2796:
2795:
2793:
2792:
2787:
2782:
2776:
2774:
2770:
2769:
2767:
2766:
2761:
2756:
2751:
2746:
2740:
2738:
2732:
2731:
2729:
2728:
2723:
2721:Sea level rise
2718:
2716:Sea level drop
2713:
2708:
2703:
2698:
2692:
2690:
2684:
2683:
2681:
2680:
2675:
2670:
2665:
2660:
2655:
2650:
2645:
2640:
2635:
2629:
2627:
2623:
2622:
2620:
2619:
2614:
2609:
2604:
2599:
2594:
2589:
2584:
2579:
2574:
2569:
2564:
2559:
2554:
2552:Marine geology
2549:
2544:
2539:
2534:
2528:
2526:
2518:
2517:
2515:
2514:
2509:
2504:
2499:
2494:
2492:Passive margin
2489:
2487:Oceanic trench
2484:
2479:
2474:
2469:
2464:
2459:
2454:
2449:
2444:
2439:
2434:
2429:
2424:
2419:
2414:
2409:
2404:
2398:
2396:
2390:
2389:
2387:
2386:
2381:
2376:
2371:
2366:
2361:
2356:
2351:
2346:
2341:
2336:
2331:
2326:
2321:
2316:
2311:
2306:
2301:
2295:
2293:
2287:
2286:
2284:
2283:
2278:
2273:
2268:
2263:
2262:
2261:
2251:
2246:
2241:
2236:
2231:
2226:
2221:
2219:Ocean dynamics
2216:
2211:
2206:
2201:
2196:
2191:
2186:
2181:
2176:
2171:
2166:
2161:
2156:
2151:
2146:
2141:
2136:
2131:
2126:
2121:
2116:
2111:
2109:Coriolis force
2106:
2101:
2096:
2090:
2088:
2082:
2081:
2063:
2061:
2059:
2058:
2057:
2056:
2046:
2041:
2036:
2035:
2034:
2029:
2019:
2014:
2009:
2004:
1999:
1994:
1989:
1984:
1979:
1974:
1969:
1964:
1959:
1958:
1957:
1947:
1942:
1937:
1932:
1930:Stokes problem
1927:
1922:
1917:
1912:
1907:
1902:
1897:
1892:
1887:
1882:
1877:
1872:
1867:
1865:Kinematic wave
1862:
1857:
1852:
1847:
1842:
1837:
1832:
1827:
1822:
1817:
1812:
1807:
1802:
1797:
1792:
1787:
1782:
1776:
1774:
1768:
1767:
1760:
1759:
1752:
1745:
1737:
1730:
1729:
1724:
1708:
1691:(2): 273â283,
1677:
1662:Sturrock, P.A.
1658:
1630:
1602:
1566:
1561:
1548:
1543:
1530:
1499:
1482:(4): 647â664,
1472:McIntyre, M.E.
1466:
1464:
1461:
1458:
1457:
1440:
1426:
1415:
1385:
1384:
1382:
1379:
1356:plasma physics
1327:
1315:group velocity
1300:
1295:
1282:
1281:
1270:
1265:
1259:
1253:
1248:
1243:
1239:
1234:
1230:
1225:
1193:
1189:
1185:
1180:
1175:
1147:
1144:
1141:
1137:
1129:
1125:
1121:
1114:
1108:
1103:
1098:
1094:
1089:
1084:
1080:
1076:
1072:
1068:
1061:
1057:
1053:
1048:
1041:
1038:
1034:
999:
971:
966:
962:
935:
922:
921:
910:
907:
904:
899:
894:
890:
886:
881:
873:
870:
866:
831:Whitham (1965)
793:
789:
764:
753:
752:
741:
734:
730:
726:
721:
716:
696:slowly varying
652:North Atlantic
638:
637:
635:
634:
627:
620:
612:
609:
608:
604:
603:
598:
593:
588:
583:
578:
573:
568:
563:
558:
553:
548:
543:
538:
533:
527:
526:
523:
522:
519:
518:
513:
512:
511:
510:
505:
500:
492:
491:
485:
484:
483:
482:
477:
472:
462:
457:
456:
453:
452:
447:
446:
440:
439:
437:
436:
431:
426:
421:
416:
411:
406:
400:
397:
396:
390:
389:
387:
386:
381:
376:
374:Chromatography
371:
366:
360:
357:
356:
350:
349:
347:
346:
327:
326:
325:
306:
294:
289:
277:
264:
261:
260:
252:
247:
246:
243:
242:
238:
237:
232:
227:
226:
225:
215:
210:
205:
204:
203:
198:
188:
183:
178:
173:
172:
171:
161:
155:
154:
149:
148:
145:
144:
139:
138:
137:
136:
128:
127:
123:
122:
121:
120:
115:
110:
102:
101:
95:
92:
91:
88:
87:
82:
68:
65:
60:
57:
51:
48:
45:
42:
31:
30:
24:
23:
15:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
3029:
3018:
3015:
3013:
3010:
3009:
3007:
2992:
2987:
2982:
2980:
2972:
2970:
2962:
2961:
2958:
2952:
2949:
2947:
2944:
2942:
2939:
2937:
2934:
2932:
2929:
2927:
2924:
2922:
2919:
2917:
2914:
2912:
2909:
2907:
2904:
2900:
2897:
2896:
2895:
2892:
2890:
2887:
2885:
2882:
2880:
2877:
2875:
2872:
2870:
2867:
2865:
2862:
2860:
2857:
2855:
2852:
2850:
2847:
2845:
2842:
2840:
2839:Marine energy
2837:
2835:
2832:
2830:
2829:
2824:
2822:
2819:
2817:
2814:
2812:
2809:
2807:
2806:Acidification
2804:
2803:
2801:
2797:
2791:
2788:
2786:
2783:
2781:
2778:
2777:
2775:
2771:
2765:
2762:
2760:
2759:SOFAR channel
2757:
2755:
2752:
2750:
2747:
2745:
2742:
2741:
2739:
2737:
2733:
2727:
2724:
2722:
2719:
2717:
2714:
2712:
2709:
2707:
2704:
2702:
2699:
2697:
2694:
2693:
2691:
2689:
2685:
2679:
2676:
2674:
2671:
2669:
2666:
2664:
2661:
2659:
2656:
2654:
2651:
2649:
2646:
2644:
2641:
2639:
2636:
2634:
2631:
2630:
2628:
2624:
2618:
2615:
2613:
2610:
2608:
2605:
2603:
2600:
2598:
2595:
2593:
2590:
2588:
2585:
2583:
2580:
2578:
2575:
2573:
2570:
2568:
2567:Oceanic crust
2565:
2563:
2560:
2558:
2555:
2553:
2550:
2548:
2545:
2543:
2542:Fracture zone
2540:
2538:
2535:
2533:
2530:
2529:
2527:
2525:
2519:
2513:
2510:
2508:
2505:
2503:
2500:
2498:
2495:
2493:
2490:
2488:
2485:
2483:
2480:
2478:
2477:Oceanic basin
2475:
2473:
2470:
2468:
2465:
2463:
2460:
2458:
2455:
2453:
2450:
2448:
2445:
2443:
2440:
2438:
2435:
2433:
2430:
2428:
2425:
2423:
2420:
2418:
2415:
2413:
2410:
2408:
2407:Abyssal plain
2405:
2403:
2400:
2399:
2397:
2395:
2391:
2385:
2382:
2380:
2377:
2375:
2372:
2370:
2367:
2365:
2362:
2360:
2357:
2355:
2352:
2350:
2347:
2345:
2342:
2340:
2337:
2335:
2332:
2330:
2327:
2325:
2322:
2320:
2317:
2315:
2314:Internal tide
2312:
2310:
2307:
2305:
2302:
2300:
2297:
2296:
2294:
2292:
2288:
2282:
2279:
2277:
2274:
2272:
2269:
2267:
2264:
2260:
2257:
2256:
2255:
2252:
2250:
2247:
2245:
2242:
2240:
2237:
2235:
2232:
2230:
2227:
2225:
2222:
2220:
2217:
2215:
2212:
2210:
2209:Ocean current
2207:
2205:
2202:
2200:
2197:
2195:
2192:
2190:
2187:
2185:
2182:
2180:
2177:
2175:
2172:
2170:
2167:
2165:
2162:
2160:
2157:
2155:
2152:
2150:
2147:
2145:
2142:
2140:
2137:
2135:
2132:
2130:
2127:
2125:
2122:
2120:
2117:
2115:
2112:
2110:
2107:
2105:
2102:
2100:
2097:
2095:
2092:
2091:
2089:
2087:
2083:
2078:
2067:
2055:
2052:
2051:
2050:
2047:
2045:
2042:
2040:
2037:
2033:
2030:
2028:
2025:
2024:
2023:
2020:
2018:
2015:
2013:
2010:
2008:
2007:Wave shoaling
2005:
2003:
2000:
1998:
1995:
1993:
1990:
1988:
1985:
1983:
1980:
1978:
1975:
1973:
1970:
1968:
1967:Ursell number
1965:
1963:
1960:
1956:
1953:
1952:
1951:
1948:
1946:
1943:
1941:
1938:
1936:
1933:
1931:
1928:
1926:
1923:
1921:
1918:
1916:
1913:
1911:
1908:
1906:
1903:
1901:
1898:
1896:
1893:
1891:
1888:
1886:
1883:
1881:
1878:
1876:
1873:
1871:
1868:
1866:
1863:
1861:
1858:
1856:
1853:
1851:
1850:Internal wave
1848:
1846:
1843:
1841:
1838:
1836:
1833:
1831:
1828:
1826:
1823:
1821:
1818:
1816:
1813:
1811:
1808:
1806:
1803:
1801:
1800:Breaking wave
1798:
1796:
1793:
1791:
1788:
1786:
1783:
1781:
1778:
1777:
1775:
1773:
1769:
1765:
1758:
1753:
1751:
1746:
1744:
1739:
1738:
1735:
1727:
1725:0-471-94090-9
1721:
1717:
1713:
1712:Whitham, G.B.
1709:
1706:
1702:
1698:
1694:
1690:
1686:
1682:
1681:Whitham, G.B.
1678:
1675:
1671:
1667:
1663:
1659:
1656:
1652:
1648:
1644:
1640:
1636:
1631:
1628:
1624:
1620:
1616:
1612:
1608:
1603:
1600:
1596:
1592:
1588:
1584:
1580:
1576:
1572:
1567:
1564:
1562:9780521368292
1558:
1554:
1549:
1546:
1540:
1536:
1531:
1528:
1524:
1520:
1516:
1512:
1508:
1504:
1500:
1497:
1493:
1489:
1485:
1481:
1477:
1473:
1468:
1467:
1454:
1449:
1447:
1445:
1438:
1433:
1431:
1424:
1419:
1406:
1402:
1398:
1397:
1390:
1386:
1378:
1376:
1372:
1368:
1363:
1361:
1357:
1353:
1349:
1344:
1342:
1316:
1298:
1268:
1257:
1251:
1241:
1232:
1228:
1191:
1187:
1183:
1178:
1145:
1142:
1139:
1135:
1127:
1123:
1119:
1112:
1106:
1096:
1087:
1082:
1078:
1070:
1066:
1059:
1055:
1051:
1046:
1039:
1023:
1022:
1021:
1019:
1015:
987:
964:
951:
908:
905:
902:
892:
884:
871:
855:
854:
853:
851:
848:
847:inhomogeneous
844:
840:
836:
832:
828:
824:
820:
815:
813:
809:
791:
787:
778:
762:
739:
732:
728:
724:
719:
705:
704:
703:
701:
697:
693:
689:
685:
681:
677:
673:
665:
661:
657:
653:
649:
644:
633:
628:
626:
621:
619:
614:
613:
611:
610:
602:
599:
597:
594:
592:
589:
587:
584:
582:
579:
577:
574:
572:
569:
567:
564:
562:
559:
557:
554:
552:
549:
547:
544:
542:
539:
537:
534:
532:
529:
528:
521:
520:
509:
506:
504:
501:
499:
496:
495:
494:
493:
490:
487:
486:
481:
478:
476:
473:
471:
468:
467:
466:
465:
460:
455:
454:
445:
442:
441:
435:
432:
430:
427:
425:
422:
420:
417:
415:
414:Charles's law
412:
410:
407:
405:
402:
401:
399:
398:
395:
392:
391:
385:
382:
380:
377:
375:
372:
370:
367:
365:
362:
361:
359:
358:
355:
352:
351:
345:
342:
338:
335:
331:
328:
323:
322:non-Newtonian
320:
316:
312:
311:
310:
307:
305:
302:
298:
295:
293:
290:
288:
285:
281:
278:
276:
273:
269:
266:
265:
263:
262:
259:
256:
255:
250:
245:
244:
236:
233:
231:
228:
224:
221:
220:
219:
216:
214:
211:
209:
208:Compatibility
206:
202:
199:
197:
196:Finite strain
194:
193:
192:
189:
187:
184:
182:
179:
177:
174:
170:
167:
166:
165:
162:
160:
157:
156:
152:
147:
146:
135:
132:
131:
130:
129:
125:
124:
119:
116:
114:
111:
109:
106:
105:
104:
103:
100:Conservations
99:
98:
90:
89:
85:
66:
63:
58:
55:
49:
46:
43:
40:
33:
32:
29:
26:
25:
21:
20:
2946:Water column
2894:Oceanography
2869:Observations
2864:Explorations
2834:Marginal sea
2827:
2785:OSTM/Jason-2
2617:Volcanic arc
2592:Slab suction
2309:Head of tide
2199:Loop Current
2139:Ekman spiral
1971:
1925:Stokes drift
1835:Gravity wave
1810:Cnoidal wave
1715:
1688:
1684:
1665:
1638:
1634:
1610:
1606:
1574:
1570:
1552:
1534:
1510:
1506:
1479:
1475:
1418:
1408:, retrieved
1395:
1389:
1364:
1350:to forecast
1345:
1341:total energy
1340:
1283:
1017:
923:
816:
754:
699:
690:. For small-
678:refers to a
675:
669:
489:Smart fluids
434:Graham's law
340:
333:
318:
304:Pascal's law
300:
283:
271:
126:Inequalities
2936:Thermocline
2653:Mesopelagic
2626:Ocean zones
2597:Slab window
2462:Hydrography
2402:Abyssal fan
2369:Tidal range
2359:Tidal power
2354:Tidal force
2239:Rip current
2174:Gulf Stream
2134:Ekman layer
2124:Downwelling
2099:Baroclinity
2086:Circulation
1982:Wave height
1972:Wave action
1955:megatsunami
1935:Stokes wave
1895:Rossby wave
1860:Kelvin wave
1840:Green's law
1453:Craik (1988
1018:wave action
698:waves, the
676:wave action
508:Ferrofluids
409:Boyle's law
181:Hooke's law
159:Deformation
3006:Categories
2874:Reanalysis
2773:Satellites
2754:Sofar bomb
2602:Subduction
2577:Ridge push
2472:Ocean bank
2452:Contourite
2379:Tide gauge
2364:Tidal race
2349:Tidal bore
2339:Slack tide
2304:Earth tide
2224:Ocean gyre
2044:Wind setup
2039:Wind fetch
2002:Wave setup
1997:Wave radar
1992:Wave power
1890:Rogue wave
1820:Dispersion
1463:References
1410:2013-11-14
1352:sea states
986:divergence
837:â from an
686:part of a
561:Gay-Lussac
524:Scientists
424:Fick's law
404:Atmosphere
223:frictional
176:Plasticity
164:Elasticity
2736:Acoustics
2688:Sea level
2587:Slab pull
2524:tectonics
2432:Cold seep
2394:Landforms
2271:Whirlpool
2266:Upwelling
2049:Wind wave
1977:Wave base
1905:Sea state
1825:Edge wave
1815:Cross sea
1674:593979237
1613:: 11â44,
1599:0031-9171
1360:acoustics
1188:ω
1124:ω
1079:⋅
1075:∇
1056:ω
1037:∂
1033:∂
965:⋅
961:∇
893:⋅
889:∇
869:∂
865:∂
843:nonlinear
788:ω
729:ω
692:amplitude
601:Truesdell
531:Bernoulli
480:Rheometer
475:Rheometry
315:Newtonian
309:Viscosity
59:φ
47:−
2969:Category
2921:Seawater
2648:Littoral
2643:Deep sea
2502:Seamount
2384:Tideline
2329:Rip tide
2259:shutdown
2229:Overflow
1962:Undertow
1805:Clapotis
1714:(1974),
650:for the
459:Rheology
364:Adhesion
344:Pressure
330:Buoyancy
275:Dynamics
113:Momentum
2979:Commons
2849:Mooring
2799:Related
2790:Jason-3
2780:Jason-1
2663:Pelagic
2658:Oceanic
2633:Benthic
1950:Tsunami
1920:Soliton
1693:Bibcode
1643:Bibcode
1615:Bibcode
1579:Bibcode
1515:Bibcode
1484:Bibcode
1313:is the
984:is the
827:plasmas
682:of the
546:Charles
354:Liquids
268:Statics
213:Bending
2668:Photic
2497:Seabed
1910:Seiche
1722:
1672:
1597:
1559:
1541:
1284:where
1213:
1209:
1163:
1161:using
1159:
924:where
819:action
777:energy
755:where
688:motion
596:Stokes
591:Pascal
581:Navier
576:Newton
566:Graham
541:Cauchy
444:Plasma
339:
337:Mixing
332:
317:
299:
282:
270:
258:Fluids
191:Strain
186:Stress
169:linear
118:Energy
3017:Waves
2859:Ocean
2828:Alvin
2678:Swash
2522:Plate
2467:Knoll
2457:Guyot
2412:Atoll
2291:Tides
2054:model
1940:Swell
1772:Waves
1381:Notes
850:media
571:Hooke
551:Euler
536:Boyle
394:Gases
2826:DSV
2811:Argo
2673:Surf
2129:Eddy
1720:ISBN
1670:OCLC
1595:ISSN
1557:ISBN
1539:ISBN
1405:NOAA
1358:and
1317:and
1211:and
952:and
950:flux
817:The
812:mean
779:and
702:is:
694:and
684:wave
656:NOAA
586:Noll
556:Fick
108:Mass
93:Laws
1701:doi
1651:doi
1639:320
1623:doi
1587:doi
1523:doi
1511:302
1492:doi
988:of
670:In
3008::
1699:,
1689:22
1687:,
1649:,
1637:,
1621:,
1611:16
1609:,
1593:,
1585:,
1575:13
1573:,
1521:,
1509:,
1490:,
1480:89
1478:,
1443:^
1429:^
1403:,
1399:,
852::
829:.
674:,
666:).
1756:e
1749:t
1742:v
1703::
1695::
1653::
1645::
1625::
1617::
1589::
1581::
1525::
1517::
1494::
1486::
1326:U
1299:g
1294:c
1269:,
1264:A
1258:)
1252:g
1247:c
1242:+
1238:U
1233:(
1229:=
1224:B
1192:i
1184:E
1179:=
1174:A
1146:,
1143:0
1140:=
1136:]
1128:i
1120:E
1113:)
1107:g
1102:c
1097:+
1093:U
1088:(
1083:[
1071:+
1067:)
1060:i
1052:E
1047:(
1040:t
998:B
970:B
934:B
909:,
906:0
903:=
898:B
885:+
880:A
872:t
792:i
763:E
740:,
733:i
725:E
720:=
715:A
631:e
624:t
617:v
341:·
334:·
324:)
319:·
313:(
301:·
284:·
272:·
67:x
64:d
56:d
50:D
44:=
41:J
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