1950 French Annapurna expedition

552:, injected Herzog and Lachenal to help improve their blood flow. The injections in the arteries of legs and arms were excruciatingly painful and they needed to be repeated for many days afterwards. On 7 June everyone started descending again with Herzog, Lachenal and Rébuffat lying on sledges. Needing to hurry before the monsoon made the Miristi Kola impassable through flooding, they reached Camp I as the sky clouded over and heavy rains started. From here, on 8 June, they wrote a telegram, announcing that Annapurna had been climbed, to be taken by a runner for sending to Devies in Paris. The route to Base Camp was over terrain unsuitable for sledges so Herzog and Lachenal were carried on the backs of sherpas. Once at base, and just at the right time, a large team of porters arrived to transport the whole expedition back to 537:

to make their own summit attempt the next day and who were horrified at the state of Herzog's frostbitten hands. Lachenal was missing but Herzog, unable to think clearly, said he would be arriving soon. Later they heard Lachenal calling for help – he had taken a long fall to below the camp, had lost his ice axe and a crampon, and his feet were seriously frostbitten. Terray scrambled down to him and he pleaded to be taken down to Camp II and medical help. At last Terray persuaded him to go back up to Camp V, the only responsible decision. Terray plied everyone with hot drinks through the night and whipped Lachenal's toes with the end of a rope for hours to try and restore the blood circulation – in the other tent Rébuffat did likewise for Herzog's fingers and toes.

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descend, also taking the opportunity to recover the still camera from the crevasse shelter – the cine camera he could not find. As the six climbers descended below Camp IV the air temperature rose rapidly and a crack appeared in the snow right under Herzog's roped group. An avalanche swept them down about 150 metres (500 ft) until their rope caught on a ridge. Herzog was left dangling upside down with his rope round his neck while his two sherpas were caught on their end of the rope. Descending further in agony Herzog was becoming reconciled to being close to death. Eventually they reached the comparative safety of Camp II. Herzog now felt he had succeeded as leader – even if he now died his companions would be safe and the mountain had been conquered.

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While they were frantically trying to dig a snow hole Lachenal fell through some snow covering a crevasse. Fortunately, he landed in a snow cave that could provide some slight shelter for them all in the night though they had no food or water and only one sleeping bag. In the night snow poured in on them burying their boots and cameras. Next morning they took a long time to find their boots but their cameras, with the only photographs taken at the summit, could not be found. They climbed out of the crevasse but by now Terray and Rébuffat were snowblind so the pair crippled with frostbite led the blind pair slowly down until by extreme good fortune they were met by Schatz who guided them back down to Camp IVA.

1180:, traveled to Kathmandu in 1946 to discuss the establishment of formal diplomatic relations between the United States and Nepal, initiated on a limited basis the following year. Chargé d'affaires Merrell was convinced that the Himalaya was a region of vital strategic importance to the United States in the emerging cold war with the Soviet Union and allied Communist nations; in a cable to Washington in January 1947 he argued that 'in an age of rocket warfare,' Tibet might provide a valuable launching pad for American missiles. He may have harbored similar thoughts regarding Nepal; in any case, he worked diligently to broaden contacts between the two countries on both the official and informal levels. 499:

to carry up these loads. This unselfish act by Terray led to Herzog (who had acclimatised the best) and Lachenal, accompanied by Ang Tharkay and Sarki, being the ones who set out from Camp II on 31 May for an attempt on the summit. Next day Herzog's team moved Camp IV to a better site at the top of the Sickle cliff (Camp IVA) and then on 2 June they climbed a gully through the Sickle to establish Camp V, their assault camp, on the snow fields above. With the monsoon now forecast for 5 June, time was extremely tight. Herzog offered Ang Tharkay and Sarki the opportunity to accompany them to the summit but they turned down what would have been a great honour. The two sherpas headed back to Camp IVA.

174:– Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I, the highest in each range, are over 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) and there had been no previous attempts to climb these mountains. The region had only been casually explored previously and the mountain heights had been determined by surveyors with precision theodolites based far away in India. Other nations felt that they should have been given priority but Nepal had favoured France. In Britain there had been the hope that international rivalry would cease after the war but this was not the view of the French government (who were providing one third of the resources) or of the banking and industrial sponsors, so the enterprise was to be strictly French. 381: 482:

on the glacier at 5,110 metres (16,750 ft) with a relatively gentle slope up to the mountain but with a considerable risk of avalanches. From here on the first sunny afternoon in weeks they could survey the mountain easily. Herzog decided that the expedition's support should now move from Tukucha and so sent Sarki back with the order. Camp II was in the middle of a plateau above the north Annapurna glacier, fairly well sheltered from avalanches. Each morning brought 0.30 metres (1 ft) or more of snow – making for slow progress – but after crossing an avalanche corridor they were able to establish Camp III among some

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neighbouring peaks and it is steep on all sides. They found an unmapped region they called the "Hidden Valley" but from there they were unable to see the mountain at all. Over the next two weeks small groups examined the southeast and northeast ridges while Terray and Oudot reached a 5,300-metre (17,500 ft) pass (called French Pass) beyond the Hidden Valley but, although they were able to see Dhaulagiri, they decided the north face could not be climbed. They were also able to see across to Annapurna in the distance where there were steep cliffs to the south but the northern profile did not look to be more than 35°.

453: 851:" (disorderly retreat) beside which on the typescript Devies jotted down "But no" and Maurice Herzog "Is this the place to say so?". When Lachenal had wanted to turn back before the summit Herzog thought it was his encouragement that had enabled Lachenal to continue. However Lachenal wrote that he agreed to go on because he thought that Herzog would not succeed in getting back down again alone. Herzog wrote in the margin of the typescript: "I didn't sense this. Perhaps after all I was unfair." On the other hand, Devies noted: "This must all be rewritten". In the event Gérard Herzog did not include any of the " 1436:"The cover photo, endlessly reproduced for years to come...". "Le 19 août, au cœur de l'été, Paris Match sort avec son numéro 74 sa première couverture " historique ". On y voit un géant des cimes emmitouflé dans sa tenue marine et brandissant un drapeau français contre le manche de son piolet. Maurice Herzog. " Victoire sur l'Himalaya ", titre Match en rouge dans un aplat au fond doré." "The cover featured the now-famous summit photo of Herzog holding aloft the Tricolor attached to the shaft of his ice axe ...". Legend for photograph of cover: "La couverture mythique de Paris Match, en 1950". 311: 473:

leading to the plateau above. However, they could see no higher. Fortunately Terray and Herzog had been able to see the plateau from their high point on the northwest spur and could tell the route across the plateau to the top was not technically difficult. Compared with the northwest spur, the north face of Annapurna is at a relatively low angle and does not require rock climbing skills, but the risk of avalanches makes it extremely dangerous. Annapurna may well be the most dangerous 8,000-metre peak – as of 2000 for 38 successful ascents there had been 57 deaths.

364: 356: 393: 838:, for full editing. As published, the book comprised chapters about Lachenal's life written by Gérard Herzog from Lachenal's notes and material written by a journalist Philippe Cornuau who had been helping Lachenal with his draft – Cornuau said that when he had handed over the typescripts he had no idea of what was going to happen. None of what Lachenal or Cornuau had written appeared in the eventual publication. The book also included extracts from Lachenal's diary but only after many redactions – it was mostly the more congenial remarks that remained. 873:(published in English as "The Conquistadors of the Useless") included a long chapter about the Annapurna expedition. It was deliberately written to complement Herzog's book. He provided a great deal of additional information but finishing with the avalanche on the way down to Camp II. Generally the book did not disagree with Herzog but did commend Lachenal's climbing ability: he said "Lachenal was by far the fastest and most brilliant climber I have ever known on delicate or loose terrain" but he could however lack patience and stamina. 596:

Everyone got across and camped for the night – by morning the bridge had been swept away. They had hoped to follow the river down to where it joined the Kali Gandaki but a reconnaissance showed this would be impossible and so they were forced to climb the Nilgiri ridge to return the way they had come. Now down in the jungle, Herzog developed a fever and reached a very low ebb: "... I implored death to come and deliver me. I had lost the will to live, and I was giving in – the ultimate humiliation ...", he wrote afterwards in his book

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was only accepted by the appointments committee on the understanding that Herzog could send him away at any time. However, like everyone in the team, this unnamed person had behaved as a "true comrade ... despite what was apparently divulged much later". Roberts has claimed that almost all expert observers agreed that it was Lachenal being referred to. Whereas in 1951 he had written that Lachenal, after his serious fall at Camp V, wanted Terray to take him down to Camp II, in

469:). In three separate groups they crossed the Nilgiri range, traversed east above the Miristi Kola, and descended the gorge. Crossing the river they set up a base camp at the foot of a glacier below Annapurna's northwest spur. Two teams moved up the spur, a feat of considerable technical climbing, but even after repeated attempts over five days they were unable to get higher than about 6,000 metres (20,000 ft). 1065:

photographs were credited to Ichac. It later emerged that Rébuffat succeeded in covertly bringing back the film used by Lachenal and he developed it before returning all the photographs but one to Ichac. The one he kept back, which he kept for the rest of his life, had been too embarrassing for Lachenal to bear becoming public – the one of Herzog waving the tyre company Kléber's pennant on the summit.

528:, his sponsoring employer. After about an hour on the summit, not waiting for Herzog in his euphoric state to load another roll of film, Lachenal set off back down at a furious pace. Herzog, swallowing the last of his food – from a nearly empty tube of condensed milk – threw the tube down on the summit as that was the only memorial he could leave and he trailed behind Lachenal into a gathering storm. 22: 281:(with several refuelling stops). They took 3.5 tons of supplies which included ropes and outer clothing of nylon, down-filled jackets and felt-lined leather boots with rubber soles – all innovative equipment. Most of their food was to be bought locally and they had decided not to take bottled oxygen. Another aircraft took them to 724:

communicate anything about the expedition for five years so initially Herzog's was the only version of events to be known. However, in 1996 two very different accounts were published and "a storm of controversy seized France". Herzog responded in 1998. After speaking to many of the people involved who were still alive, in 2000

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had written there was a fierce wind at the summit but in the photo he seems to be having to hold the flag out straight. The only summit photograph taken by Herzog, one of Lachenal, he kept hidden until after Lachenal's death. This blurred image shows him sitting leaning against a rock not looking at all victorious.

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ascended farther. Finding that their boots were proving to be inadequately insulated, Lachenal, fearing losing his feet to frostbite, contemplated going down. He asked Herzog what he would do if he did turn back and Herzog replied that he would go on up alone. Lachenal decided to continue on with Herzog. A last

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On the other hand, Terray wrote that, although Lachenal could not remember anything of the descent, he had told Terray of his feelings at the summit: "Those moments when one had expected a fugitive and piercing happiness had in fact brought only a painful sense of emptiness." Rébuffat's wife said her

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again stirred up the press. In an interview Herzog now said Lachenal was an excessive personality and he and Devies had removed passages from Lachenal's draft to avoid charges of defamation and to keep things calm. He said Herzog's brother had helped Lachenal because he was incapable of writing, that

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to everyone who had been on the expedition and they were impressed – even Lachenal. Contradicting his 1951 account, he said his frostbite had not been caused by losing his gloves because he had simply put his hands in his pockets. Instead, the cause was digging in the snow in their overnight crevasse

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Herzog wrote that originally he had not intended to write a book but a hospital nurse had suggested writing would be good therapy for him. He said that even after nearly 50 years his Annapurna experience still imbued his reborn life with "indescribable happiness". He said that one member of the party

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as a pain-killer while the casualties were being carried out and that Rébuffat was the only person who was attentive to Lachenal. Back in 1956 the text Gérard Herzog had excluded was about matters he considered too unpleasant for publication such as the climbers being offered young girls for sex and,

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The book contained many revelations. Rébuffat had been shocked by the requirement for an oath of obedience and he described it as "a certain Nazification". He considered it had been his initiative that led to the discovery of the eventual climbing route to the summit and that Herzog had not given him

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In the preface to the 1951 book Devies concentrates almost exclusively on the leader of the team: "The victory of the whole party was also, and above all, the victory of its leader". Herzog told of a happy team, all pulling together although at times Lachenal could be impetuous. Rarely did he mention

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and Herzog in a wicker basket. They became stranded in the open when it became too dark to carry the casualties safely. Next morning they reached a camp by the bridge but the river had risen to only 0.30 metres (1 ft) below the span so they needed to undertake the difficult crossing immediately.

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The party moved their base camp to the furthest point that could be reached by porters in the direction of the newly identified starting point – to the right bank of the North Annapurna glacier at 4,400 metres (14,500 ft) while Couzy was left to organise moving the supplies up. Camp I was set up

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In 1949 the French Alpine Club requested permission from the Nepalese government to carry out a major expedition. The timing turned out to be ideal, and they were given permission to attempt to climb either Dhaulagiri or Annapurna in remote northwestern Nepal. The two mountain ranges, each consisting

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took part in an expedition ascending using much the same route and they were able to take photographs with very similar perspectives. Lachenal had the reputation of being an honest man, even bluntly honest. This, and the likelihood that he had little personal reason to fake his private diary, leaves

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that seems to show the ground sloping up higher than Herzog's feet. Also, after Lachenal's death it was claimed he used to say he had no memory of the summit, or another version was that he had once said had not got there at all. Even fifty years later there were doubts from a small minority. Herzog

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The combination of Rébuffat's disillusioned story and the obvious censorship of Lachenal's writing caused a storm of revisionism in the French press. Frédéric Potet wrote: "The whole world remembers Maurice Herzog, the first biped to have trod, in 1950, atop a mountain of more than 8,000 metres. The

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Herzog's plan had been that he and Terray should rest before attempting the summit but the other four climbers became too exhausted to do their part of a carry to Camp IV so Terray (disobeying the orders he had received to go down from Camp III to Camp II) climbed with Rébuffat and a team of sherpas

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on the far side of the glacier and by 28 May they had established Camp IV below a curving cliff of ice that they called the "Sickle". Terray was amazed by the energy he and the team showed, considering how long they had been at high altitude and how little they had eaten. He wondered if this was due

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The approximate heights of the various camps were: Base Camp 4,400 metres (14,500 ft); Camp I, 19/05/1950, 5,100 metres (16,700 ft), Camp II, 23/05/1950, 5,900 metres (19,350 ft), Camp III, 24/05/1950, 6,600 metres (21,650 ft), Camp IV, 27/05/1950, 7,200 metres (23,500 ft),

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was the only account and it became a worldwide best-seller with over 11 million sales, a record for a mountaineering book. All the royalties from the publication (in France it remained the best-selling work of non-fiction for nearly a year) went to the Himalayan Committee and were used to fund

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but by July he was needing to amputate as well as to continue trimming. Eventually he had to remove all of Lachenal's toes and, for Herzog, his fingers and toes. Because it was the rice planting season porters were abandoning the expedition all the time and it became impossible to find new recruits

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Next morning Lachenal's feet would not fit into his boots so Terray gave him his larger ones and then slit the uppers of Lachenal's so he could wear them himself. Descending with the storm still raging they could not find Camp IVA anywhere and they were desperate to avoid a bivouac out in the open.

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At some stage Herzog took his gloves off and laid them down to open his pack. Catastrophically they slid away down the mountain so he had to continue bare-handed, not thinking to use the spare socks he had with him. At Camp V he was met by Terray and Rébuffat who had brought up a second tent hoping

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and discovering an unmapped wall of mountains to their south continuing beyond the lake and still blocking any view of Annapurna. This part of the Nilgiri range looping right round the north of Annapurna they called the "Great Barrier". Ichac and Ang Tharkay stayed back to do accurate surveying and

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shown on the map. To avoid the entrance to the gorge, the party climbed to the ridge of the Nilgiris from where they could see the ravine below was indeed impassable. However, traversing beside the ridge by following a slight path marked with cairns, they reached a point from which Schatz and Couzy

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Starting from Tukusha, the climbers Lachenal and Rébuffat headed for an initial exploration of Dhaulagiri's eastern glacier, while Herzog, Terray and Ichac went to the north where they found their 1920s map was seriously defective (see above). Unlike Annapurna, Dhaulagiri is well separated from its

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where the road ended. On the march-in Lachenal and Terray would keep going on ahead as a scouting party while the rest followed with 150 porters carrying the supplies on their backs. Porters were paid according to the weight of their loads and they scorned the work they were being offered where the

942:. The original manuscript had been left to Lachenal's son Jean-Claude, who had become angry with the changes the editors had made in 1956. However, Herzog had befriended the Lachenal family and Jean-Claude had not wanted to cause any hurt. Eventually Guérin persuaded him to allow full publication. 899:

had become very disillusioned by the expedition and afterwards he restricted his climbing to the Alps. Françoise had persuaded him not to write about Annapurna during his lifetime because it would come across as too bitter so Ballu had interviewed him with a view to an eventual biography. Rébuffat

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Couzy was at the camp so he and Schatz were able to assist Herzog, Rébuffat and Lachenal down the Sickle cliff to Camp IV where there were some sherpas sheltering. Meanwhile, Terray had chosen to stay at IVA trying to get the blood circulation back into his feet. Schatz climbed back up to help him

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launching point for missiles, the United States welcomed the new situation. Scientific expeditions became permitted but two requests in 1948 from Switzerland and Britain for purely mountaineering expeditions were refused. A year later mountaineers were allowed if they were accompanying scientific

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broadcast a report that the monsoon would be reaching them the next day, 10 June. The heavy rain would become torrential and the rivers would rise. A team led by Schatz built a makeshift bridge over the Miristi Kola and everyone hurried towards the bridge along paths that required Lachenal to be

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With the start of the monsoon predicted for the first week in June, back in Tukusha on 14 May they held a meeting to discuss which mountain to attempt and along which particular route. Terray wrote: "In full awareness of his terrible responsibility Maurice chose the more reasonable but uncertain

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had 31,000 members in 1950 – and the top mountaineers were second only to footballers in their celebrity. Although French mountaineers included some of the leading alpinists in the world, they had not ventured much beyond the Alps whereas their British counterparts, with little truly mountainous

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discovered that before leaving for France Ichac had searched Rébuffat bodily to check he was not smuggling back any film. Ichac had not gone above Camp II so Rébuffat had taken all the higher photographs except those at the summit taken by Lachenal and one by Herzog. Despite this, all published

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Meantime Lachenal and Rébuffat on their own initiative had moved round the foot of the spur to below Annapurna's north face, to a point they decided gave the best prospects for success. They sent a note back to the main party saying there was a likely route up the side of the north face glacier

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Not understanding that being at high altitude without additional oxygen induces apathy, in a severe gale the climbers spent the night without eating anything or sleeping, and in the morning they did not bother lighting their stove to make hot drinks. At 06:00 it was no longer snowing and they

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at 2,600 metres (8,500 ft) on 21 April. The people lived there in primitive conditions – Terray described the place as having "biblical charm". Couzy climbed a 4,000-metre (13,000 ft) Nilgiri peak to the east of Tukusha to inspect the eastern Dhaulagiri terrain and he concluded the

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Over the following years several members of the expedition wrote about their experiences and the varied accounts eventually led to controversy. At the airport, before setting off on the expedition, Herzog had required each member of the team to sign an undertaking not to publish or publicly

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again ran the expedition on its front cover, this time focusing on the cinema premiere (attended by the President of France) of the film made by Ichac. The cover described Herzog as "our number one national hero" – in the accompanying six-page article Lachenal was not mentioned at all.

330:. On first seeing Dhaulagiri on 17 April the immediate impression was that it was unclimbable. They could not see Annapurna but there was a break in the Nilgiris where the Miristi Kola flows into the Kali Gandaki through a deep and narrow gorge with an impenetrable entrance. The 1920s 1116:

husband had never doubted they had got there. His journal recorded that, when they met up at Camp V, Herzog suggested Rébuffat and Terray go up to the summit while Herzog and Lachenal continued down. They would have noticed if their footprints had not extended all the way to the top.

517:, on their first attempt on a mountain that had never before been explored. Herzog, writing in his characteristically idealistic way, was ecstatic: "Never have I felt happiness like this, so intense and pure." On the other hand, Lachenal only felt "a painful sense of emptiness". 400:

During this Dhaulagiri reconnaissance, Schatz, Couzy, Oudot and Ang Tharkay had been back south to explore the deep canyon of the Miristi Kola river. When they had previously passed that river on the march-in it seemed to have a greater flow than would be likely for the limited

135:, had not allowed explorers or mountaineers into the country. However, by 1946 a possible communist-sponsored revolution was even less welcome than Western influence so Nepal opened diplomatic discussions with the United States. Privately hoping to be able to use Nepal as a 949:

that provided an assessment of the situation. It was because he was a professional mountain guide that Lachenal had continued with Herzog to the summit. By doing so, through frostbite, he lost the ability to continue his career – and allowed Herzog to triumph in his.

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southeast ridge was "absolutely frightful". Even so, Herzog decided that they should first focus on Dhaulagiri, the higher mountain, since they would only have to investigate possible routes to the summit and would not have to reconnoitre to find the mountain itself.

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Most of the party set out for the Miristi Kola as an advance reconnaissance group leaving most of the porters to bring the rest of stores and equipment later. They took with them the medical supplies deemed necessary by Oudot including Maxiton (the equivalent

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because Devies and Herzog had been opposed to it. They also found that, despite rumours that several mountaineers had been seriously injured, their wives waiting anxiously at home were told nothing by Devies because of the exclusive publication contract with

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any disagreement between team members and he, as leader, could resolve any spats quite easily. He very often quoted as direct speech the jaunty sort of remarks members of the team might have made, even on occasions when he was not present to have heard them.

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were able to descend 910 metres (3,000 ft) to the river and from there they reached the base of Annapurna's northwest spur. They could not tell whether the spur, or the ice fields on either side of it, might provide a feasible route to the summit.

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wrote that the first half was like "a boy camper's letter to a chum" but what followed was a "harrowing ordeal-by-nature calculated to shiver the spirit of the toughest armchair explorer." Herzog and Ichac published a photographic book in 1951

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who was the expedition's photographer and cinematographer. The three mountain guides would have preferred an international approach whereas Herzog welcomed climbing for national prestige. None were paid, not even the professional guides. The

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led them to the summit which they reached at 14:00 on 3 June 1950. Herzog estimated the height as 8,075 metres (26,493 ft) – his altimeter read 8,500 metres (27,900 ft). They had climbed the highest summit ever reached, the first

845:", intended to be published along with his diary. Herzog is commended as being as good as the professional guides for his stamina and technique, but, less agreeably for Herzog and Devies, he characterised the descent from the summit as a " 338:) showed a path leading up the gorge and over "Tilicho Pass" that might provide a route to the north face of Annapurna. However, none of the local inhabitants they spoke to knew of a path or had any further information. Continuing up the 908:

the credit for this. When in 1951 Lachenal had told Rébuffat that when he had been considering publishing an account of the expedition, someone from the official Himalayan Committee had threatened him that he might lose his job at the

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on a route to the north and then east. Hoping they might be able to approach "Tilicho Pass" from the east along the track marked on their map, Rébuffat, Ichac and Herzog set off on 8 May crossing two passes north of a peak (now called

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Ang Tharkay said "Thank you, very much, Bara Sahib, but my feet are beginning to freeze". This was wisdom, not cowardice, in the light of what was to happen. He was doing a professional job of work, not aiming for the glory of

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packs averaged about 40 kilograms (88 lb). However, they were willing to accept double loads of 80 kilograms (180 lb). Terray estimated the heaviest porter would not have had a body weight of over 80 kilograms.

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to the drugs Oudot had insisted on them taking regularly. On 25 May the porters arrived at Base Camp with supplies and equipment to support what would turn out to be a very fast, alpine-style assault on the mountain.

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when this was refused, being offered young boys instead. Minor comments had also been edited: "Evening, the eternal chicken and potatoes" had been removed while "We opened a bottle of white wine" had been kept.

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The publication of these books in 1996 had caused serious controversy: mountaineering journalists started expressing doubts about the reliability of Herzog's book. Herzog's rejoinder was to publish a memoir

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to climb north to a point at about 6,200 metres (20,300 ft) on a ridge, hoping the see the mountain over the Great Barrier – but everywhere was shrouded in mist. The main party reached the village of

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future expeditions – in a direct sense Herzog did not benefit financially at all. The description of the expedition above in this article has generally been drawn from Herzog's book complemented by the "

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This second summit attempt had not been planned in advance so it was extremely fortunate for Herzog and Lachenal that Terray and Rébuffat had decided to undertake it. Terray's book gives details of the

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terrain of their own and less skill on rock faces, had been reconnoitring Himalaya via newly-independent India. After the travails of war a mountaineering success would be good for the public mood.

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printed a special edition for 19 August with articles about the expedition and the cover photo, taken by Lachenal but credited to Ichac, showing Herzog with his ice axe and Tricolour at the summit

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who greeted them as national heroes. There were a few cars in Kathmandu even though no roads led there – the vehicles had been carried in manually by hundreds of porters along the mountain trails.

1039:, however, considered there was too much fuss: five-year embargoes were normal in 1950 and the distinction between professional guides and amateur climbers had lost any significance by that time. 1029:

others – Rébuffat, Terray, Lachenal? Who were they? Where did they come from? What did they do?" Major newspapers in France and mountaineering magazines worldwide joined the criticism. In the

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Even at the time whipping digits was becoming a dubious treatment and before long it was thought to be damaging. It now certain even vigorous rubbing, never mind whipping, causes more damage.

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In his diaries Lachenal admitted that a sherpa had fallen to his death from the Nilgiri ridge on their return march but no one else had mentioned this. No one else wrote of the daily use of

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Lachenal was very happy with the rewrite and that Lachenal's son had made up the story about the draft being distorted. The sherpa Foutharkay was drawn into the arguments, saying that

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This article refers to the two highest peaks simply as "Dhaulagiri" and "Annapurna" rather than "Dhaulagiri I" and "Annapurna I". None of the other peaks were attempted.

3882: 3724: 1236: 60:, reaching the summit on 3 June 1950. It was only with considerable help from their team that they were able to return alive, though with severe injuries following frostbite. 688:

which sold over 11 million copies worldwide to become the best selling mountaineering book in history. He became the first international mountaineering celebrity after

64: 157: 3900: 257:

Two days before the expedition departed, Devies gathered the French team together and required them to swear an oath that they would obey their leader in everything.

125: 3935: 435:. The expedition had been unable even to see Annapurna from the north, let alone discover a route to it. The map they had was so inaccurate that it was useless. 4331: 326:. As the expedition approached from the south Dhaulagiri was clearly visible as a white pyramid to the west whereas Annapurna to the east was hidden behind the 71:

to be climbed. The feat was a great achievement for French mountaineering and caught the public imagination with front-page coverage in a best-selling issue of

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Terray estimated four or five pitches of grade IV and one very exposed pitch of grade V (led by Lachenal). The grades used at that time eventually became the

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Interviewed by Roberts in 1999, Herzog told him the controversy had not bothered him. No one had doubted what he had written. He had shown the manuscript of

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Terray's book gives a historical background to the expedition and Nepal, has more to say on the details of the climb, and has far less dialogue than Herzog.

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There had been gossip that Terray's book had been ghostwritten but this was proved false when a manuscript in Terray's handwriting turned up posthumously.

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According to Roberts there may have been a class prejudice in choosing the leader – an amateur mountaineer was to be preferred over a professional guide.

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With everyone back in Tukusha and with poor prospects of attaining either summit from the east, west or south, Herzog acted on the advice of a Buddhist

828: 52:

and the government had given permission for the expedition, the first time it had permitted mountaineering in over a century. After failing to climb

1107:

Even as far back as 1950 a small number of people doubted the expedition had reached the summit. One of the problems was the famous "summit photo"

4264:"Maurice Herzog, 81 ans, héros de l'Annapurna, cultive depuis 1950 la légende qui lui a ouvert une vie d'honneurs et de pouvoir. Droits d'hauteur" 660:. The magazine sold in record numbers and the photo remained an iconic image for years to come. Herzog, Lachenal and Ang Tharkay were awarded the 231: 216: 177: 3741: 624:

at the Indian border. On 6 July the climbers went on to Delhi to wait there while Herzog and a select group including two sherpas travelled to

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they took a detour because there was cholera in the area ahead. Oudot was having to start trimming dead flesh from Herzog's fingers using a

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account agrees with Herzog's original version. Lachenal wrote he wanted to go down at least to Camp IV but finally agreed to climb back up.

1153: 885: 3839: 1473:

Roberts spoke to Guerin, Ballu, Cornuau, Jean-Claude Lachenal, the widows of Terray, Rébuffat and Couzy, Ichac's son, and Maurice Herzog.

1099:

the American Alpine Journal said "David Roberts has none of the Himalayan expedition experience necessary to put the events in context."

83:

full of vivid descriptions of heroic endeavour and anguished suffering – but which much later was criticised for being too self-serving.

1176:"Nepal's first gesture of a new openness to Western contact was made to the United States. The American chargé d'affaires in New Delhi, 3878: 996:

said "I succeeded in getting to page 16. But when I saw that he had not a single word for poor Lachenal, I couldn't get any further."

1119:

Also, Lachenal's diary says he took the summit photographs from a ledge slightly below the summit. When Herzog was interviewed by

707:

stamp (0.46 euro) celebrating the fiftieth anniversary of the climb, designed by Jean-Paul Cousin and engraved by André Lavergne.

3891: 1033:: "I am sorry we have had to wait so long for the true story. All around us we can see the damage done by false information." 3924: 3986:

Ward, M. P.; Clark, P. K. (March 1992). "Everest, 1951: Cartographic and Photographic Evidence of a New Route from Nepal".

600:. The casualties could now be carried in wicker chairs made to a design of Terray and they eventually reached the Gandaki. 1136:

little doubt about its accuracy – it is very widely accepted that they did indeed reach the top of Annapurna. In his book

297:

where they met up with the other sherpas and entered Nepal to travel on by truck through jungle and then grassy fields to

4067: 3669: 4309: 4245: 4226: 4188: 3976: 3943: 3867: 1634: 4375: 3684: 786:

was "a gallant and moving story, in some ways a terrible story" predicting it would become a mountaineering classic.

121: 4370: 3699: 187:, the most influential person in French mountaineering, was responsible for gathering together a team and he chose 56:

at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft), the higher peak nearby to the west, the team attempted Annapurna with Herzog and

520:

Lachenal was anxious to go down as soon as possible but he obliged Herzog by photographing his leader holding the

1016:

he did not mention losing his gloves at all. Explaining various differences between his two accounts Herzog said

384:

Annapurna Himal from 50 kilometres (31 mi) north. Annapurna I is the highest peak, somewhat left of centre

191:, an experienced amateur climber, to be the leader of the expedition. Accompanying him were to be three younger 1391:

Herzog raised the pennant of his employer Kléber-Colombe tyres, where he was a director (now part of Michelin).

140:

travellers. Nepal first gave permission for a full mountaineering expedition for a French attempt in 1950 on

4218: 934:, the mountaineering publisher, published an unexpurgated version of Lachenal's diary, also including the " 1306:

Nepal did not have the abject poverty of parts of Delhi which Terray characterised as being like Auschwitz

1020:

was a novel, but a true novel. He considered his first book to be objective and the other was subjective.

439:

course: we would attempt Annapurna." The route would be the one reconnoitered by Schatz and Couzy's team.

63:

Annapurna became the highest mountain to have been ascended to its summit, exceeding that achieved by the

1242: 380: 254:

appointed G.B. Rana to accompany the expedition for local liaison, translation and general organisation.

3858:

Fallen Giants : A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes

900:

had also prepared his own notes, and Françoise had kept his many letters to her during the expedition.

675: 1080:

he said the passages had been removed from Lachenal's book because they did not interest the editors.

1347:

Camp V, 31/05/1950, 7,500 metres (24,600 ft), Summit, 03/06/1950, 8,091 metres (26,545 ft).

1230: 4143: 1360:). The latter may have contributed to Herzog's euphoria on the summit and in the crevasse shelter. 494:

Annapurna's "Sickle" (centre). Shoulder of Tilicho Peak (right) obscures lower parts of Annapurna.

490: 4385: 4032: 3912: 3689: 1553: 1030: 929: 778: 725: 692:

and went on to be a successful politician. Fifty years later in France he was still as famous as

452: 117: 4380: 4288: 3917:

True summit : what really happened on Maurice Herzog's first legendary ascent of Annapurna

823:, when he was killed in a skiing accident in 1955. Herzog took over Lachenal's work and he and 318:

Dhaulagiri and Annapurna are 34 kilometres (21 miles) apart on either side of the gorge of the

1127:

of snow receding away upwards was actually very close and only reached to his waist. It was a

662: 650:

in Paris to be greeted by a wildly cheering crowd. Herzog was carried off the aircraft first.

1177: 819: 124:, Tibet expelled all Chinese officials and closed its borders to foreigners. In October 1950 109: 4204: 525: 310: 827:

marked in many editorial suggestions for deletions before passing it to Herzog's brother,

355: 8: 4156: 1193:

who was distinguishing rock climbing alpinists from Himalayan mountaineers and explorers.

1132: 773: 549: 227: 1325: 833: 4003: 3674: 339: 319: 242: 171: 896: 735: 363: 208: 4305: 4241: 4222: 4184: 3972: 3920: 3863: 3856: 3725:"Maurice Herzog: Mountaineer who became one of the first two men to ascend Annapurna" 1357: 697: 679: 573: 392: 980:

described it as a meditation rather than a biography, "a witty and modest account".

4084: 3995: 3851: 3825: 1482:

Translations of quotations originally in French have been taken from Roberts' book.

1141: 847: 824: 748: 693: 684: 604: 514: 236: 221: 182: 145: 105: 97: 79: 68: 45: 21: 1095:

Roberts' book about the controversy has itself also been criticised. In reviewing

3711: 1514: 585: 331: 1517:

who replies "An admirable suggestion, Maurice, we need an ideal for our youth."

1271:(sirdar), Dawathondup, Angtsering, Sarki, Foutharkay, Aila, Angdawa and Ajeepa. 1089: 992: 987: 946: 814: 754: 689: 568: 521: 402: 200: 196: 188: 57: 37: 4195:

Not first-hand but a posthumous biography, published with Rébuffat's approval.

603:

Stretchers could be used on the track heading south beside the Gandaki but at

100:

in Nepal, and no one had attempted to climb the mountain before 1950. All pre–

4364: 4346: 4333: 1460: 1424: 1356:

On the mountain the climbers were taking both sleeping pills and stimulants (

1294: 890: 866: 629: 557: 327: 251: 204: 4180: 982: 4090: 3831: 1644: 1455: 1379:

Annapurna was the only eight-thousander to be climbed at the first attempt.

1207: 1203: 1190: 1128: 855:". The book was published in 1956 and Cornuau was shocked by what he read. 647: 423: 419: 246: 132: 101: 53: 876: 591: 431:

and explored slightly further before returning to Tukucha on the road via

245:, a diplomat. The only person who had previously been to the Himalaya was 4168:

Les grandes aventures de l'Himalaya. Annapurna, Nanga Parbat, Chogori, K2

3547: 1510: 1268: 652: 613: 553: 462: 286: 113: 73: 41: 3700:"Herzog et Lachenal sont-ils parvenus au sommet de l'Annapurna? – Kairn" 608: 367:

Dhaulagiri region: sketch maps of India Survey (left) and Herzog (right)

314:

Sketch map of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna region based on Herzog's 1951 map

4007: 466: 428: 396:

Annapurna region: sketch maps of India Survey (left) and Herzog (right)

271: 212: 141: 1923: 1792: 1076:

is the exact truth. ... My writings have never been contradicted." To

4080: 3821: 2004: 1420: 1315:

The pass over the Nilgiri ridge they called the "Pass of April 27th".

1280:

It was more formally known as the "French Himalayan Expedition 1950"

718: 642: 625: 432: 414: 278: 3999: 3840:"An early history of the 8000m peaks: the first ascent of Annapurna" 3508: 2471: 2469: 1045:

magazine investigated and reported that Terray had not received the

646:

on 16 June but it was only on 17 July that the team arrived home at

3280: 1060: 954: 617: 616:

tactics to be able to keep going. At last, on 6 July, they reached

294: 192: 136: 3352: 2906: 2358: 1124: 3376: 2666: 2664: 2662: 2660: 2582: 2466: 2394: 1744: 1662: 509: 343: 282: 3496: 3268: 3196: 3160: 2977: 2536: 2534: 2532: 2063: 2061: 2059: 2057: 2055: 1958: 1956: 1954: 1952: 1950: 1841: 1839: 1837: 1835: 1833: 1831: 1707: 1705: 1703: 1701: 1622: 1598: 1131:

at the crest of the summit, too weak to be trodden on. In 1970

817:

had kept notes and a diary and he was about to publish a book,

621: 323: 298: 290: 3612: 3610: 3256: 3052: 2884: 2882: 2657: 2274: 1427:

was injected. These drugs are now known not to help frostbite.

858: 91: 2782: 2780: 2731: 2729: 2727: 2529: 2442: 2382: 2052: 1947: 1828: 1698: 884:

In association with Rébuffat's wife Françoise the journalist

704: 703:

In June 2000, the French national postal services issued a 3

483: 260: 49: 3936:"Maurice Herzog et l'Annapurna : un exploit confisqué?" 3172: 2816: 1586: 1574: 270:

On 30 March 1950 the French Annapurna Expedition flew on an

156:

Alpine mountaineering was immensely popular in France – the

4077:

Annapurna. Conquest of the First 8000-Metre Peak (26,493ft)

3607: 3595: 3571: 3559: 3460: 3220: 3148: 2879: 1004:

he said Lachenal just wanted to stay where he was and die.

410: 274: 3484: 3472: 3124: 2967: 2965: 2777: 2765: 2753: 2724: 2712: 2688: 2676: 2645: 2633: 2611: 2609: 2370: 2286: 2250: 2238: 2211: 1911: 1875: 1337:

Annapurna was first climbed by the northwest spur in 1996.

572:

Kali Gandaki valley near confluence with Miristi Kola, at

44:

at 8,091 metres (26,545 ft), the highest peak in the

3388: 2927: 2925: 2923: 2921: 2558: 2454: 2418: 2346: 2262: 2160: 1863: 1756: 4153:

Conquistadors of the Useless: From the Alps to Annapurna

4052: 3969:

Conquistadors of the useless: from the Alps to Annapurna

3064: 2570: 2430: 2334: 2228: 2226: 2124: 2016: 1734: 1732: 1686: 640:

The telegram giving news of the success was reported by

4033:"Annapurna 1950, chronologie de l'affaire – Summit Day" 3634: 3535: 3436: 3424: 3412: 3328: 3136: 3100: 3028: 3006: 3004: 2989: 2962: 2869: 2867: 2840: 2792: 2741: 2606: 2136: 2100: 2040: 2028: 1992: 1968: 1935: 710: 682:

for the best part of a year where he dictated his book

4057:

In chronological order of first (French) publication.

3854:; Weaver, Stewart (2008). "The Golden Age Postponed". 3525: 3523: 3448: 3316: 3304: 3244: 3232: 3112: 3088: 2918: 2804: 2700: 2621: 2594: 2310: 1887: 1526:

The title of the American edition was intended to be "

1123:

he said that what appeared in the photographs like an

915: 806: 700:

whereas few remembered Lachenal or any of the others.

4140:

Les conquérants de l'inutile. Des Alpes à l'Annapurna

3340: 3184: 2546: 2517: 2505: 2493: 2406: 2298: 2223: 2184: 2148: 2112: 2088: 2078: 2076: 1980: 1768: 1729: 1717: 1674: 4302:

Annapurna: 50 years of expeditions in the death zone

3001: 2894: 2864: 1899: 1816: 1804: 1780: 1650: 1610: 1237:

Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade

1138:

Annapurna: 50 Years of Expeditions in the Death Zone

158:

Fédération Française des clubs alpins et de montagne

126:

Tibet was occupied by the People's Republic of China

3646: 3583: 3520: 3400: 3364: 3208: 3076: 3040: 3016: 2937: 2322: 2201: 2199: 1851: 1509:For example Herzog says he suggested the idea of a 961: 447: 442: 3855: 3622: 3292: 2481: 2172: 2073: 719:Books written by (and for) the members of the team 170:of many high peaks, are on each side of the great 2957:L'Annapurna, premier « 8 000 » français 2828: 728:, the American mountaineer and writer, published 104:Himalayan mountaineering expeditions had avoided 16:First ascent by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal 4362: 2852: 2196: 4177:Gaston Rébuffat : une vie pour la montagne 1556:provides a good brief summary of the situation. 795:and in 1981 Herzog published a historical work 131:For over one hundred years Nepal, ruled by the 4128:Lachenal, Louis (1956). Herzog, Gérard (ed.). 3850: 3058: 2912: 2670: 2588: 2540: 2475: 2448: 2400: 2388: 2364: 2067: 1962: 1929: 1845: 1798: 1750: 1711: 1668: 1628: 1604: 1592: 1580: 1297:. Sherpas assist the climbers on the mountain. 1173: 895:wrote the first biography of the mountaineer. 128:and its borders remained closed indefinitely. 841:Lachenal had also left a typescript of some " 620:where they boarded a train that took them to 3962:. Translated by Doubrawa-Cochlin, Ingeborga. 2331:, "... the French team moved like cheetahs." 1282:(L'expédition himalayenne française de 1950) 1154:1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition 1012:trying to find the buried boots. Indeed, in 4391:Mountaineering expeditions to the Himalayas 4166:Herzog, Maurice (1981). "Un autre regard". 4118: 3070: 305: 92:Himalayan mountaineering after World War II 1263: 1261: 945:There was a favourable book review in the 335: 261:Embarking on expedition and reconnaissance 241:and the interpreter and transport officer 164: 4238:Renaître: une autre vie après l'Annapurna 3985: 3971:. London: Baton Wicks. pp. 232–306. 3710: 1974: 1616: 1387: 1385: 1023: 902:Gaston Rébuffat: une vie pour la montagne 879:Gaston Rébuffat: une vie pour la montagne 350: 265: 4198: 4127: 3346: 3190: 567: 489: 451: 391: 379: 375: 362: 354: 309: 151: 20: 4119:Herzog, Maurice; Ichac, Marcel (1951). 3911: 3837: 3795: 3667: 3616: 3601: 3577: 3565: 3553: 3541: 3514: 3502: 3490: 3466: 3454: 3442: 3430: 3418: 3394: 3382: 3358: 3334: 3322: 3310: 3286: 3274: 3262: 3238: 3226: 3202: 3178: 3166: 3154: 3142: 3130: 3118: 3106: 3094: 3034: 3010: 2995: 2983: 2971: 2931: 2900: 2888: 2846: 2822: 2798: 2747: 2706: 2615: 2576: 2552: 2511: 2499: 2436: 2340: 2328: 2316: 2292: 2166: 2022: 1893: 1774: 1738: 1692: 1680: 1656: 1258: 1144:regarded it as "an indisputable fact". 1092:was a hero in Nepal but Herzog not so. 563: 531: 4363: 4212: 4165: 4137: 4061: 3966: 3950: 3898: 3876: 3815: 3775: 3755: 3722: 3682: 3589: 3529: 3478: 3406: 3370: 3250: 3214: 3082: 3046: 3022: 2943: 2810: 2786: 2771: 2759: 2735: 2718: 2694: 2682: 2651: 2639: 2627: 2600: 2564: 2523: 2487: 2460: 2424: 2412: 2376: 2352: 2304: 2280: 2268: 2256: 2244: 2232: 2217: 2190: 2154: 2142: 2130: 2118: 2106: 2094: 2082: 2046: 2034: 2010: 1998: 1986: 1941: 1917: 1905: 1881: 1869: 1857: 1822: 1810: 1786: 1762: 1723: 1640: 1445:The first European honour to a sherpa. 1382: 974:in 1998 when he was eighty years old. 635: 524:on the summit and then a pennant from 502: 289:, the expedition's highly experienced 4174: 4053:First-hand accounts of the expedition 3697: 3628: 3298: 1102: 910:École Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme 476: 4240:(in French). Paris: Jacob-Duvernet. 4030: 4014: 3967:Terray, Lionel (2001). "Annapurna". 3889: 3862:. New Haven: Yale University Press. 2873: 2834: 2205: 1228:At the time Devies was president of 342:the team reached the market town of 3933: 3885:from the original on 25 March 2018. 3739: 3652: 3640: 2858: 2178: 797:Les grandes aventures de l'Himalaya 77:. Herzog wrote a best-selling book 13: 4155:. Translated by Sutton, Geoffrey. 3735:from the original on 14 June 2018. 3723:Cusick, James (14 December 2012). 799:which had a section on Annapurna. 456:Annapurna from Miristi Kola valley 359:Dhaulagiri from French Pass (2008) 14: 4402: 4170:(in French). Grenoble: JC Lattes. 4132:(in French). Paris: Pierre Horay. 4099:Herzog, Maurice (November 1951). 4045: 4041:For dates camps were established. 4017:"The Great Angtharkay: A Tribute" 3685:"Book review: Carnets du Vertige" 3556:, pp. 127, 179–181, 218–219. 1202:However a French team, including 1083:The 1998 publication of Herzog's 628:to be received on 11 July by the 67:, and the mountain was the first 4287:Douglas, Ed (14 December 2012). 3942:(in French). RTL. Archived from 3892:"L'Himalaya a sauvé Paris Match" 3756:Greene, Raymond (14 July 1954). 3698:Ballu, Yves (26 December 2012). 2949: 1546: 1533: 1520: 1503: 1494: 1485: 1476: 1467: 1448: 1439: 1430: 1413: 1404: 448:Finding a location for base camp 443:Approach to Annapurna and summit 413:that they should travel towards 120:seemed to be gaining control in 116:, but in 1949, alarmed that the 34:1950 French Annapurna expedition 4262:Buffet, Charlie (7 June 2000). 3890:Mahé, Patrick (26 March 2009). 3838:Horrell, Mark (30 March 2016). 2013:, pp. 48, 54, 57, 102–103. 1394: 1373: 1363: 1350: 1340: 1331: 1318: 1309: 1300: 1293:The sirdar is in charge of the 1287: 1274: 1249: 1222: 1213: 1196: 1072:, Herzog said "What I wrote in 986:deplored its name-dropping and 923:The same year Michel Guérin of 4304:. Seattle: Mountaineers Book. 3668:Barcott, Bruce (4 June 2000). 3661: 1183: 1166: 1109:(see image at head of article) 732:, discussing the whole issue. 658:(see image at head of article) 584:Specially for the expedition, 1: 1563: 1419:The first injections were of 612:so they felt forced to adopt 336:left-hand Annapurna map below 86: 65:1936 expedition to Nanda Devi 3953:"Annapuma North..West Ridge" 3517:, pp. 41, 147, 179–181. 3059:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2913:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2671:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2589:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2541:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2476:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2449:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2401:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2389:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2365:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 2068:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1963:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1930:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1846:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1799:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1751:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1712:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1669:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1629:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1605:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1593:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1581:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 1568: 1174:Isserman & Weaver (2008) 871:Les conquérants de l'inutile 861:Les conquérants de l'inutile 768:Conquistadors of the Useless 7: 4319:"Victoire sur l'Himalaya". 4270:(in French). Archived from 3289:, pp. 26, 32, 151–153. 1267:Herzog listed the sherpas: 1147: 465:preparation in Britain was 10: 4407: 4300:Messner, Reinhold (2000). 3901:"Book review: True Summit" 3361:, pp. 24–27, 173–178. 746: 714:and other expedition books 4289:"Maurice Herzog obituary" 3951:Soroka, Waldemar (1998). 3894:(in French). Paris Match. 3844:Footsteps on the Mountain 3796:Herzog, Maurice (1951a). 3742:"Annapurna Anniversaries" 3071:Herzog & Ichac (1951) 334:map they were using (see 4376:Mountaineering in France 4323:: 12–27. 19 August 1950. 4255: 4236:Herzog, Maurice (2007). 4213:Herzog, Maurice (1998). 4199:Lachenal, Louis (1996). 4121:Regards vers l'Annapurna 4087:. London: Jonathan Cape. 4075:Herzog, Maurice (1952). 4062:Herzog, Maurice (1951). 4031:anon (11 January 2016). 3988:The Geographical Journal 3934:RTL (14 December 2012). 3816:Herzog, Maurice (1954). 3758:"High Altitude Medecine" 3683:Barthe, Patrick (1997). 3505:, pp. 100–105, 139. 3385:, p. 121, 123, 128. 3277:, pp. 26, 146, 153. 3205:, pp. 173–177, 224. 3169:, pp. 164–166, 172. 2986:, pp. 24–25, 42–43. 2283:, pp. 193–197, 206. 1932:, pp. 244–245, 484. 1801:, pp. 242–243, 484. 1243:Groupe de haute montagne 1159: 1037:La Montagne et Alpinisme 938:", under the same title 793:Regards vers l'Annapurna 766:" chapter from Terray's 742:Regards vers l'Annapurna 306:Reconnaissance of region 40:, reached the summit of 4371:Expeditions from France 4219:Éditions Robert Laffont 4151:Terray, Lionel (1963). 4138:Terray, Lionel (1961). 4134:No English translation. 4064:Annapurna, premier 8000 3905:American Alpine Journal 3899:Palais, Robert (2001). 3718:. Book Club Associates. 3690:American Alpine Journal 1643:, In "Introduction" by 1617:Ward & Clark (1992) 1423:and on subsequent days 1031:American Alpine Journal 904:was published in 1996. 779:New York Herald Tribune 738:Annapurna, premier 8000 685:Annapurna, premier 8000 674:Herzog was kept at the 165:Planning the expedition 4015:Ward, Michael (1996). 3265:, pp. 66–68, 193. 1024:Reactions in the press 666:. On 17 February 1951 581: 548:At Camp II Oudot, the 495: 457: 397: 389: 368: 360: 351:Dhaulagiri exploration 315: 266:Departure and march-in 108:and had travelled via 29: 4347:28.59528°N 83.82556°E 4209:Unexpurgated version. 4123:(in French). Arthaud. 3919:. London: Constable. 571: 493: 455: 395: 383: 376:Annapurna exploration 366: 358: 322:, a tributary of the 313: 293:A train took them to 152:French mountaineering 48:. The mountain is in 24: 4217:(in French). Paris: 4179:(in French). Paris: 4175:Ballu, Yves (1996). 4142:(in French). Paris: 3776:Harper, Sue (1999). 3716:Annapurna South Face 3670:"No Room at the Top" 2379:, pp. 161, 180. 2367:, pp. 246, 248. 2259:, pp. 148, 154. 2247:, pp. 121, 135. 2220:, pp. 122, 148. 1920:, pp. 242, 245. 1884:, pp. 252, 259. 564:Leaving the mountain 532:Descent to Base Camp 96:Annapurna is in the 28:dated 19 August 1950 4343: / 3740:Day, Henry (2010). 3643:, pp. 188–189. 3619:, pp. 215–219. 3604:, pp. 216–218. 3580:, pp. 186–187. 3568:, pp. 182–183. 3481:, pp. 287–288. 3469:, pp. 102–103. 3229:, pp. 206–209. 3181:, p. 123, 172. 3157:, pp. 167–173. 2915:, pp. 252–253. 2891:, pp. 136–137. 2825:, p. 127, 133. 2789:, pp. 264–287. 2774:, pp. 262–275. 2762:, pp. 256–259. 2738:, pp. 241–255. 2721:, pp. 226–240. 2697:, pp. 494–495. 2685:, pp. 212–225. 2654:, pp. 205–207. 2642:, pp. 289–290. 2591:, pp. 251–252. 2567:, pp. 284–287. 2478:, pp. 249–251. 2463:, pp. 288–289. 2403:, pp. 248–249. 2355:, pp. 281–283. 2295:, pp. 120–121. 2271:, pp. 291–292. 1872:, pp. 242–243. 1765:, pp. 232–233. 1753:, pp. 242–243. 1671:, pp. 234–241. 1631:, pp. 242–253. 1607:, pp. 238–241. 1552:Barthe's review in 1231:Club alpin français 774:James Ramsey Ullman 636:Reception in France 589:carried in a human 550:expedition's doctor 503:Reaching the summit 422:) at each end of a 228:expedition's doctor 211:, and two amateurs 4352:28.59528; 83.82556 4201:Carnets du vertige 4144:Éditions Gallimard 4130:Carnets du vertige 3828:. Reprint Society. 3778:"Other Annapurnas" 3675:The New York Times 3493:, pp. 99–100. 3133:, pp. 47, 88. 2427:, p. 193–195. 2169:, pp. 75, 89. 2133:, pp. 95–124. 1103:Summit Controversy 1090:Sir Edmund Hillary 940:Carnets du vertige 918:Carnets du vertige 820:Carnets du vertige 809:Carnets du vertige 630:Maharajah of Nepal 582: 496: 477:Intermediate camps 458: 398: 390: 369: 361: 340:Kali Gandaki Gorge 320:Kali Gandaki river 316: 252:Maharajah of Nepal 243:Francis de Noyelle 172:Kali Gandaki Gorge 30: 4215:L'autre Annapurna 4085:Adam Smith, Janet 3926:978-1-84119-339-7 3852:Isserman, Maurice 3826:Adam Smith, Janet 2579:, pp. 92–93. 2439:, pp. 45–46. 2343:, pp. 89–91. 2145:, pp. 89–92. 2109:, pp. 95–96. 2037:, pp. 66–67. 2025:, pp. 71–72. 2001:, pp. 82–83. 1944:, pp. 44–45. 1695:, pp. 30–31. 1515:President Kennedy 1358:Dextroamphetamine 1178:George R. Merrell 1085:L'autre Annapurna 1014:L'autre Annapurna 1002:L'autre Annapurna 972:L'autre Annapurna 964:L'autre Annapurna 916:Lachenal (1996): 807:Lachenal (1956): 698:Jean-Claude Killy 680:Neuilly-sur-Seine 676:American hospital 578:(road as in 2012) 386:(annotated image) 328:Nilgiri mountains 4398: 4358: 4357: 4355: 4354: 4353: 4348: 4344: 4341: 4340: 4339: 4336: 4324: 4315: 4296: 4283: 4281: 4279: 4251: 4232: 4208: 4194: 4181:Éditions Hoëbeke 4171: 4160: 4147: 4133: 4124: 4115: 4105: 4089:Introduction by 4088: 4079:. Translated by 4071: 4068:Éditions Arthaud 4040: 4027: 4021: 4011: 3982: 3963: 3957: 3947: 3946:on 4 April 2018. 3930: 3908: 3895: 3886: 3873: 3861: 3847: 3830:Introduction by 3829: 3820:. Translated by 3812: 3802: 3792: 3782: 3772: 3762: 3752: 3746: 3736: 3719: 3712:Bonington, Chris 3707: 3694: 3679: 3656: 3650: 3644: 3638: 3632: 3626: 3620: 3614: 3605: 3599: 3593: 3587: 3581: 3575: 3569: 3563: 3557: 3551: 3545: 3539: 3533: 3527: 3518: 3512: 3506: 3500: 3494: 3488: 3482: 3476: 3470: 3464: 3458: 3452: 3446: 3440: 3434: 3428: 3422: 3416: 3410: 3404: 3398: 3397:, p. 49–52. 3392: 3386: 3380: 3374: 3368: 3362: 3356: 3350: 3344: 3338: 3332: 3326: 3320: 3314: 3308: 3302: 3296: 3290: 3284: 3278: 3272: 3266: 3260: 3254: 3248: 3242: 3236: 3230: 3224: 3218: 3212: 3206: 3200: 3194: 3188: 3182: 3176: 3170: 3164: 3158: 3152: 3146: 3140: 3134: 3128: 3122: 3116: 3110: 3104: 3098: 3092: 3086: 3080: 3074: 3068: 3062: 3056: 3050: 3044: 3038: 3032: 3026: 3020: 3014: 3008: 2999: 2993: 2987: 2981: 2975: 2969: 2960: 2953: 2947: 2941: 2935: 2929: 2916: 2910: 2904: 2898: 2892: 2886: 2877: 2871: 2862: 2856: 2850: 2844: 2838: 2832: 2826: 2820: 2814: 2808: 2802: 2796: 2790: 2784: 2775: 2769: 2763: 2757: 2751: 2745: 2739: 2733: 2722: 2716: 2710: 2704: 2698: 2692: 2686: 2680: 2674: 2668: 2655: 2649: 2643: 2637: 2631: 2625: 2619: 2613: 2604: 2598: 2592: 2586: 2580: 2574: 2568: 2562: 2556: 2550: 2544: 2538: 2527: 2521: 2515: 2509: 2503: 2497: 2491: 2485: 2479: 2473: 2464: 2458: 2452: 2446: 2440: 2434: 2428: 2422: 2416: 2410: 2404: 2398: 2392: 2386: 2380: 2374: 2368: 2362: 2356: 2350: 2344: 2338: 2332: 2326: 2320: 2314: 2308: 2302: 2296: 2290: 2284: 2278: 2272: 2266: 2260: 2254: 2248: 2242: 2236: 2230: 2221: 2215: 2209: 2203: 2194: 2188: 2182: 2176: 2170: 2164: 2158: 2152: 2146: 2140: 2134: 2128: 2122: 2116: 2110: 2104: 2098: 2092: 2086: 2080: 2071: 2065: 2050: 2049:, p. 73–91. 2044: 2038: 2032: 2026: 2020: 2014: 2008: 2002: 1996: 1990: 1984: 1978: 1975:Bonington (1971) 1972: 1966: 1960: 1945: 1939: 1933: 1927: 1921: 1915: 1909: 1903: 1897: 1891: 1885: 1879: 1873: 1867: 1861: 1855: 1849: 1843: 1826: 1820: 1814: 1808: 1802: 1796: 1790: 1784: 1778: 1772: 1766: 1760: 1754: 1748: 1742: 1736: 1727: 1721: 1715: 1709: 1696: 1690: 1684: 1678: 1672: 1666: 1660: 1654: 1648: 1638: 1632: 1626: 1620: 1614: 1608: 1602: 1596: 1590: 1584: 1578: 1557: 1550: 1544: 1537: 1531: 1524: 1518: 1507: 1501: 1498: 1492: 1489: 1483: 1480: 1474: 1471: 1465: 1452: 1446: 1443: 1437: 1434: 1428: 1417: 1411: 1408: 1402: 1398: 1392: 1389: 1380: 1377: 1371: 1367: 1361: 1354: 1348: 1344: 1338: 1335: 1329: 1322: 1316: 1313: 1307: 1304: 1298: 1291: 1285: 1278: 1272: 1265: 1256: 1253: 1247: 1226: 1220: 1217: 1211: 1206:, had attempted 1200: 1194: 1187: 1181: 1170: 1142:Reinhold Messner 1047:Légion d'honneur 933: 894: 837: 749:Annapurna (book) 694:Jacques Cousteau 663:Légion d'honneur 515:eight-thousander 240: 225: 186: 98:Eastern Himalaya 69:eight-thousander 46:Annapurna Massif 4406: 4405: 4401: 4400: 4399: 4397: 4396: 4395: 4361: 4360: 4351: 4349: 4345: 4342: 4337: 4334: 4332: 4330: 4329: 4328: 4318: 4312: 4299: 4286: 4277: 4275: 4274:on 4 April 2018 4261: 4258: 4248: 4235: 4229: 4191: 4150: 4114:(282): 155–168. 4103: 4098: 4074: 4055: 4048: 4019: 4000:10.2307/3060016 3979: 3955: 3927: 3877:Kléber (1950). 3870: 3846:. Mark Horrell. 3811:(282): 155–168. 3800: 3791:(348): 170–174. 3780: 3760: 3744: 3729:The Independent 3664: 3659: 3651: 3647: 3639: 3635: 3627: 3623: 3615: 3608: 3600: 3596: 3588: 3584: 3576: 3572: 3564: 3560: 3552: 3548: 3540: 3536: 3528: 3521: 3513: 3509: 3501: 3497: 3489: 3485: 3477: 3473: 3465: 3461: 3453: 3449: 3441: 3437: 3429: 3425: 3421:, pp. 101. 3417: 3413: 3405: 3401: 3393: 3389: 3381: 3377: 3369: 3365: 3357: 3353: 3347:Lachenal (1996) 3345: 3341: 3333: 3329: 3321: 3317: 3309: 3305: 3297: 3293: 3285: 3281: 3273: 3269: 3261: 3257: 3249: 3245: 3237: 3233: 3225: 3221: 3213: 3209: 3201: 3197: 3191:Lachenal (1956) 3189: 3185: 3177: 3173: 3165: 3161: 3153: 3149: 3141: 3137: 3129: 3125: 3117: 3113: 3105: 3101: 3093: 3089: 3081: 3077: 3069: 3065: 3057: 3053: 3045: 3041: 3033: 3029: 3021: 3017: 3009: 3002: 2994: 2990: 2982: 2978: 2970: 2963: 2954: 2950: 2942: 2938: 2930: 2919: 2911: 2907: 2899: 2895: 2887: 2880: 2872: 2865: 2857: 2853: 2845: 2841: 2833: 2829: 2821: 2817: 2809: 2805: 2797: 2793: 2785: 2778: 2770: 2766: 2758: 2754: 2746: 2742: 2734: 2725: 2717: 2713: 2705: 2701: 2693: 2689: 2681: 2677: 2669: 2658: 2650: 2646: 2638: 2634: 2626: 2622: 2614: 2607: 2599: 2595: 2587: 2583: 2575: 2571: 2563: 2559: 2551: 2547: 2539: 2530: 2522: 2518: 2510: 2506: 2498: 2494: 2486: 2482: 2474: 2467: 2459: 2455: 2447: 2443: 2435: 2431: 2423: 2419: 2411: 2407: 2399: 2395: 2387: 2383: 2375: 2371: 2363: 2359: 2351: 2347: 2339: 2335: 2327: 2323: 2315: 2311: 2303: 2299: 2291: 2287: 2279: 2275: 2267: 2263: 2255: 2251: 2243: 2239: 2231: 2224: 2216: 2212: 2204: 2197: 2189: 2185: 2177: 2173: 2165: 2161: 2153: 2149: 2141: 2137: 2129: 2125: 2121:, pp. 274. 2117: 2113: 2105: 2101: 2093: 2089: 2081: 2074: 2066: 2053: 2045: 2041: 2033: 2029: 2021: 2017: 2009: 2005: 1997: 1993: 1985: 1981: 1973: 1969: 1961: 1948: 1940: 1936: 1928: 1924: 1916: 1912: 1904: 1900: 1892: 1888: 1880: 1876: 1868: 1864: 1856: 1852: 1844: 1829: 1821: 1817: 1809: 1805: 1797: 1793: 1785: 1781: 1773: 1769: 1761: 1757: 1749: 1745: 1737: 1730: 1722: 1718: 1710: 1699: 1691: 1687: 1679: 1675: 1667: 1663: 1655: 1651: 1639: 1635: 1627: 1623: 1615: 1611: 1603: 1599: 1591: 1587: 1579: 1575: 1571: 1566: 1561: 1560: 1551: 1547: 1538: 1534: 1525: 1521: 1508: 1504: 1499: 1495: 1490: 1486: 1481: 1477: 1472: 1468: 1453: 1449: 1444: 1440: 1435: 1431: 1418: 1414: 1409: 1405: 1399: 1395: 1390: 1383: 1378: 1374: 1368: 1364: 1355: 1351: 1345: 1341: 1336: 1332: 1323: 1319: 1314: 1310: 1305: 1301: 1292: 1288: 1279: 1275: 1266: 1259: 1254: 1250: 1227: 1223: 1218: 1214: 1201: 1197: 1188: 1184: 1171: 1167: 1162: 1150: 1105: 1068:Interviewed by 1026: 967: 962:Herzog (1998): 927: 925:Éditions Guérin 921: 888: 882: 864: 859:Terray (1961): 831: 812: 753:For some years 751: 745: 736:Herzog (1951): 721: 716: 638: 586:All India Radio 566: 534: 505: 479: 450: 445: 424:frozen ice lake 378: 353: 332:Survey of India 308: 285:where they met 268: 263: 234: 219: 209:Gaston Rébuffat 197:mountain guides 180: 167: 154: 94: 89: 17: 12: 11: 5: 4404: 4394: 4393: 4388: 4386:1950 in France 4383: 4378: 4373: 4326: 4325: 4316: 4311:978-0898867381 4310: 4297: 4284: 4257: 4254: 4253: 4252: 4247:978-2847241624 4246: 4233: 4228:978-2221087138 4227: 4210: 4196: 4190:978-2842300159 4189: 4172: 4163: 4162: 4161: 4135: 4125: 4116: 4108:Alpine Journal 4096: 4095: 4094: 4054: 4051: 4047: 4046:Other accounts 4044: 4043: 4042: 4028: 4024:Alpine Journal 4012: 3983: 3978:978-1898573388 3977: 3964: 3960:Alpine Journal 3948: 3931: 3925: 3913:Roberts, David 3909: 3896: 3887: 3874: 3869:978-0300115017 3868: 3848: 3835: 3813: 3805:Alpine Journal 3793: 3785:Alpine Journal 3773: 3765:Alpine Journal 3753: 3749:Alpine Journal 3737: 3720: 3708: 3695: 3680: 3663: 3660: 3658: 3657: 3655:, p. 182. 3645: 3633: 3621: 3617:Roberts (2001) 3606: 3602:Roberts (2001) 3594: 3582: 3578:Roberts (2001) 3570: 3566:Roberts (2001) 3558: 3554:Roberts (2001) 3546: 3544:, p. 182. 3542:Roberts (2001) 3534: 3519: 3515:Roberts (2001) 3507: 3503:Roberts (2001) 3495: 3491:Roberts (2001) 3483: 3471: 3467:Roberts (2001) 3459: 3455:Roberts (2001) 3447: 3445:, p. 126. 3443:Roberts (2001) 3435: 3433:, p. 185. 3431:Roberts (2001) 3423: 3419:Roberts (2001) 3411: 3399: 3395:Roberts (2001) 3387: 3383:Roberts (2001) 3375: 3363: 3359:Roberts (2001) 3351: 3339: 3337:, p. 180. 3335:Roberts (2001) 3327: 3323:Roberts (2001) 3315: 3311:Roberts (2001) 3303: 3291: 3287:Roberts (2001) 3279: 3275:Roberts (2001) 3267: 3263:Roberts (2001) 3255: 3253:, p. 258. 3243: 3239:Roberts (2001) 3231: 3227:Roberts (2001) 3219: 3207: 3203:Roberts (2001) 3195: 3183: 3179:Roberts (2001) 3171: 3167:Roberts (2001) 3159: 3155:Roberts (2001) 3147: 3145:, p. 103. 3143:Roberts (2001) 3135: 3131:Roberts (2001) 3123: 3119:Roberts (2001) 3111: 3109:, p. 137. 3107:Roberts (2001) 3099: 3095:Roberts (2001) 3087: 3075: 3063: 3061:, p. 253. 3051: 3039: 3037:, p. 138. 3035:Roberts (2001) 3027: 3015: 3011:Roberts (2001) 3000: 2998:, p. 179. 2996:Roberts (2001) 2988: 2984:Roberts (2001) 2976: 2974:, p. 141. 2972:Roberts (2001) 2961: 2948: 2936: 2932:Roberts (2001) 2917: 2905: 2901:Barcott (2000) 2893: 2889:Roberts (2001) 2878: 2876:, p. 182. 2863: 2851: 2849:, p. 136. 2847:Roberts (2001) 2839: 2827: 2823:Roberts (2001) 2815: 2813:, p. 253. 2803: 2801:, p. 130. 2799:Roberts (2001) 2791: 2776: 2764: 2752: 2750:, p. 122. 2748:Roberts (2001) 2740: 2723: 2711: 2707:Roberts (2001) 2699: 2687: 2675: 2673:, p. 252. 2656: 2644: 2632: 2630:, p. 200. 2620: 2618:, p. 100. 2616:Roberts (2001) 2605: 2603:, p. 494. 2593: 2581: 2577:Roberts (2001) 2569: 2557: 2553:Roberts (2001) 2545: 2543:, p. 251. 2528: 2526:, p. 195. 2516: 2512:Roberts (2001) 2504: 2500:Roberts (2001) 2492: 2480: 2465: 2453: 2451:, p. 249. 2441: 2437:Roberts (2001) 2429: 2417: 2415:, p. 170. 2405: 2393: 2391:, p. 248. 2381: 2369: 2357: 2345: 2341:Roberts (2001) 2333: 2329:Horrell (2016) 2321: 2319:, p. 176. 2317:Roberts (2001) 2309: 2307:, p. 148. 2297: 2293:Roberts (2001) 2285: 2273: 2261: 2249: 2237: 2235:, p. 276. 2222: 2210: 2195: 2193:, p. 128. 2183: 2181:, p. 189. 2171: 2167:Roberts (2001) 2159: 2157:, p. 121. 2147: 2135: 2123: 2111: 2099: 2097:, p. 493. 2087: 2072: 2070:, p. 246. 2051: 2039: 2027: 2023:Roberts (2001) 2015: 2003: 1991: 1989:, p. 265. 1979: 1967: 1965:, p. 245. 1946: 1934: 1922: 1910: 1898: 1896:, p. 157. 1894:Herzog (1951a) 1886: 1874: 1862: 1850: 1848:, p. 243. 1827: 1815: 1803: 1791: 1779: 1775:Roberts (2001) 1767: 1755: 1743: 1739:Roberts (2001) 1728: 1726:, p. 242. 1716: 1714:, p. 242. 1697: 1693:Roberts (2001) 1685: 1681:Roberts (2001) 1673: 1661: 1657:Roberts (2001) 1649: 1633: 1621: 1609: 1597: 1595:, p. 240. 1585: 1583:, p. 238. 1572: 1570: 1567: 1565: 1562: 1559: 1558: 1545: 1532: 1519: 1502: 1493: 1484: 1475: 1466: 1447: 1438: 1429: 1412: 1403: 1393: 1381: 1372: 1362: 1349: 1339: 1330: 1317: 1308: 1299: 1286: 1273: 1257: 1248: 1221: 1212: 1195: 1182: 1164: 1163: 1161: 1158: 1157: 1156: 1149: 1146: 1104: 1101: 1025: 1022: 988:Pierre Mazeaud 966: 960: 947:Alpine Journal 920: 914: 881: 877:Ballu (1996): 875: 869:'s 1961 book, 863: 857: 811: 805: 747:Main article: 744: 734: 720: 717: 715: 709: 690:George Mallory 637: 634: 565: 562: 533: 530: 504: 501: 478: 475: 449: 446: 444: 441: 403:drainage basin 377: 374: 352: 349: 307: 304: 277:from Paris to 267: 264: 262: 259: 201:Louis Lachenal 189:Maurice Herzog 166: 163: 153: 150: 93: 90: 88: 85: 58:Louis Lachenal 38:Maurice Herzog 15: 9: 6: 4: 3: 2: 4403: 4392: 4389: 4387: 4384: 4382: 4381:1950 in Nepal 4379: 4377: 4374: 4372: 4369: 4368: 4366: 4359: 4356: 4322: 4317: 4313: 4307: 4303: 4298: 4294: 4290: 4285: 4273: 4269: 4268:Libération.fr 4265: 4260: 4259: 4249: 4243: 4239: 4234: 4230: 4224: 4220: 4216: 4211: 4206: 4205:Michel Guérin 4203:(in French). 4202: 4197: 4192: 4186: 4182: 4178: 4173: 4169: 4164: 4158: 4154: 4149: 4148: 4145: 4141: 4136: 4131: 4126: 4122: 4117: 4113: 4109: 4102: 4097: 4092: 4091:Shipton, Eric 4086: 4082: 4078: 4073: 4072: 4069: 4066:(in French). 4065: 4060: 4059: 4058: 4050: 4038: 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3324: 3319: 3313:, p. 33. 3312: 3307: 3300: 3295: 3288: 3283: 3276: 3271: 3264: 3259: 3252: 3251:Terray (2001) 3247: 3241:, p. 68. 3240: 3235: 3228: 3223: 3216: 3215:Terray (1961) 3211: 3204: 3199: 3192: 3187: 3180: 3175: 3168: 3163: 3156: 3151: 3144: 3139: 3132: 3127: 3121:, p. 50. 3120: 3115: 3108: 3103: 3097:, p. 81. 3096: 3091: 3084: 3083:Herzog (1981) 3079: 3072: 3067: 3060: 3055: 3048: 3047:Herzog (1954) 3043: 3036: 3031: 3024: 3023:Herzog (1951) 3019: 3012: 3007: 3005: 2997: 2992: 2985: 2980: 2973: 2968: 2966: 2959: 2958: 2952: 2945: 2944:Cusick (2012) 2940: 2934:, p. 22. 2933: 2928: 2926: 2924: 2922: 2914: 2909: 2902: 2897: 2890: 2885: 2883: 2875: 2870: 2868: 2860: 2855: 2848: 2843: 2836: 2831: 2824: 2819: 2812: 2811:Terray (2001) 2807: 2800: 2795: 2788: 2787:Herzog (1954) 2783: 2781: 2773: 2772:Herzog (1954) 2768: 2761: 2760:Herzog (1954) 2756: 2749: 2744: 2737: 2736:Herzog (1954) 2732: 2730: 2728: 2720: 2719:Herzog (1954) 2715: 2709:, p. 21. 2708: 2703: 2696: 2695:Greene 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Kléber. 3822:Morin, Nea 3751:: 181–189. 3653:Day (2010) 3641:Day (2010) 2859:RTL (2012) 2179:Day (2010) 1564:References 1528:Born Twice 1326:UIAA scale 983:Libération 886:Yves Ballu 614:press gang 467:Benzedrine 429:Manangbhot 272:Air France 213:Jean Couzy 142:Dhaulagiri 118:communists 87:Background 3818:Annapurna 1569:Citations 1539:Terray's 1454:Ahead of 1421:novocaine 1133:Henry Day 1078:Montagnes 1074:Annapurna 1052:Le Figaro 1043:Montagnes 1018:Annapurna 1009:Annapurna 978:Le Figaro 848:débandade 784:Annapurna 764:Annapurna 759:Annapurna 712:Annapurna 643:Le Figaro 626:Kathmandu 598:Annapurna 522:Tricolour 433:Muktinath 415:Muktinath 279:New Delhi 146:Annapurna 80:Annapurna 36:, led by 4293:Guardian 4157:Gollancz 3915:(2001). 3883:Archived 3733:Archived 3714:(1971). 1458:'s book 1401:attempt. 1210:in 1936. 1148:See also 1121:Le Monde 1070:Le Monde 1061:Le Monde 955:morphine 897:Rébuffat 815:Lachenal 618:Nautanwa 574:Tatopani 295:Nautanwa 193:Chamonix 137:Cold War 4278:4 April 4008:3060016 1647:, p. 9. 1370:France. 1295:sherpas 1191:Shipton 1140:(2000) 1129:cornice 592:cacolet 556:on the 510:couloir 344:Tukusha 283:Lucknow 4308: 4244: 4225: 4187: 4006: 3975: 3940:RTL.fr 3923: 3907:: 420. 3866: 3771:(289). 3693:: 365. 867:Terray 755:Herzog 622:Raxaul 609:rugine 526:Kléber 484:seracs 324:Ganges 299:Butwal 291:sirdar 226:. 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1950 French Annapurna expedition

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