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Bonnie Cashin

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280: 256: 268: 308: 296: 223:, a newly-formed women's accessory business. Coach was a division of their wholesale men's accessory company, Gail Leather Products, and internally, it was referred to as "the Bonnie Cashin account," as she was a contracted designer, never a Gail Leather or Coach employee. Her classic designs for Gail's Coach division during the early 1960s included the shopping bag tote, the bucket bag, shoulder bag and a clutch-style purse with a removable shoulder strap. In 1964, Cashin introduced a brass turn lock/toggle fastening that was featured on her designs produced by the Cahns as well as on all garment and accessory collections produced by a range of manufacturers in the US and abroad, including 59: 168: 158:
Cashin enjoyed the work in Hollywood, explaining: "I wasn't designing for fashion, but for characteristics, which is the way I like to design clothes for daily wear. I like to design clothes for a woman who plays a particular role in life, not simply to design clothes that follow a certain trend, or
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to Carl Cashin, a photographer and inventor, and Eunice Cashin, a dressmaker. The family lived in several towns in northern California during Cashin's early years, and in each, her mother would open a custom dress shop. In a 1973 interview, Cashin explained her interest in fashion: "My mother was a
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Cashin was famous for her witty and ingenious approaches to designing for mobility, including a dog leash skirt: a long wool skirt that could be instantly shortened for walking up stairs by latching a small brass ring sewn at the bottom to a small brass clasp sewn into the waistline. In a February
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In 1979, Cashin established the Innovative Design Fund, a nonprofit organization based in New York that gave up to $ 10,000 to designers with original ideas in home furnishings, textiles, and fashion so they could transform their sketches into marketable products.
392:), Lake and her husband Cory opened the archive to collaborative partnerships. The Bonnie Cashin Archive and its projects have no affiliation with any Cashin trademarks registered in the decades since Cashin's death. Cashin herself never registered her name. 424:, in the old carriage house, had steps that went up to a second floor. And I was constantly holding my skirts going up. I entertained a lot. And I'd be running up stairs with a martini in my hand. And so I thought I'd better hitch my skirt permanently." 231:, HBA, and D. Klein. Cashin designed two small collections for the Cahns each year to complement her garment designs for other manufacturers until 1974. In 1975, Meyers Manufacturing took over the production of her signature handbag designs. 100:
seemed very different to me from the atmosphere around the theater. I felt more at home with dancers, actors, artists, musicians, writers--people like that--than I did with most of the business men I met in the clothing industry."
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In the early 1940s after she had moved back to California, Cashin was married briefly to Disney illustrator and art director Robert Sterner. The marriage ended in divorce, and they had no children.
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Cashin was a rare female CEO, and her mother was her company's only other major stakeholder, with a one-percent stake. Up until her mother's death in 1963, the two lived in adjoining apartments in
1374: 279: 255: 627: 26:, she created innovative, uncomplicated clothing that catered to the modern, independent woman beginning in the post-war era through to her retirement from the fashion world in 1985. 1195: 267: 727: 388:
The Bonnie Cashin Archive, the designer's personal design archive, is privately owned in its entirety by her heir and biographer, Dr. Stephanie Lake. In 2019 (as reported by
647: 81:, where she created three costume changes per week for each of the theater's 24 dancers, known as the "Roxyettes." Owing to her deceivingly youthful appearance, 400:
Cashin is often cited for creating both the concept of layering clothing and for coining the term. The idea of layering came from time she spent in living near
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In 1972, Cashin founded The Knittery, which produced limited edition collections of coats and handmade Scottish sweaters. That year, she was inducted into the
623:"Furnishing Fashion: Material Connections in Twentieth-Century Design", The Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design, and Culture, 2004 307: 840: 1370:, an exhibition catalog from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries (fully available online as PDF), which contains material on Bonnie Cashin (see index) 228: 198:
Award, an unprecedented feat in the fashion world. In 1952, she opened her own business, Bonnie Cashin Designs. Cashin was the first designer chosen for
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In 1949, Cashin returned to New York City. There, she designed the first sportswear collection with her name on the label for her previous employer,
328: 1824: 1819: 1352: 96:, sportswear manufacturer Louis Adler offered her a job. She was hesitant to accept, stating, "The profit-conscious, business-like atmosphere of 1387:, contains images of over 200 garments designed by Cashin while she worked with the garment manufacturer Phil Sills between the years 1960-1980. 711: 224: 1799: 1412: 1794: 1789: 1357: 1205: 1814: 1784: 238:
and Ballantyne, always with her signature on the label. She also created the first-ever designer flight attendants' uniforms for
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Bonnie Cashin Collection, part of the College of Design, Architecture, Art, and Planning (DAAP) at the University of Cincinnati
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Toward the end of her life, Cashin granted exclusive and unrestricted access to her personal design archive to design scholar
1804: 515: 368:, where her mother sewed Cashin's samples for major manufacturers. Upon its construction in 1966, Cashin lived and worked at 145: 1809: 1779: 361:. Following Vanderbilt's death, Cashin and Kellar began a romance that lasted until Cashin's death. They never married. 1367: 444: 1020:. Kirkham, Pat., Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press. 2000. 1405: 1096: 1079: 1025: 950: 900: 1306: 1748: 1733: 139: 1069: 940: 501: 105: 50:, to help make costumes for its productions. After she graduated in 1925, Cashin became its full-time designer. 22:(September 28, 1908 – February 3, 2000) was an American fashion designer. Considered a pioneer in the design of 1131: 1165: 1552: 522: 508: 369: 620:"The Artful Line: Drawings and Prints from FIT's Special Collections", Fashion Institute of Technology, 2004 1398: 1381:
from The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library at The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
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The definitive Bonnie Cashin monograph, Bonnie Cashin: Chic is Where You Find It" (Rizzoli, 2016)
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Women designers in the USA, 1900-2000 : diversity and difference : Jacqueline M. Atkins
1487: 1437: 1343: 1339: 484: 451: 412:, the hardware became a signature feature of all of her designs, including her Coach handbags. 408:
and hardware in her design. Inspired by the brass turnlocks that secured the top of her 1940s
1257: 552: 529: 467: 417: 389: 46:. During high school, Cashin was hired by a Los Angeles ballet and theatrical revue company, 43: 617:"Bonnie Cashin: A Classic American Sportswear Designer", Shippensburg State University, 2004 535:"Her Works Praise Her: Women as Inventors", Goldstein Gallery, University of Minnesota, 1988 380:
Cashin died in Manhattan on February 3, 2000, due to complications from open-heart surgery.
58: 1774: 1769: 1738: 1421: 598: 421: 8: 735: 561:"Stipelman: His illustrations and the Fashions they Reflect", Ohio State University, 1996 187: 35: 23: 1477: 1170: 1101: 1043: 845: 685: 584: 571: 542: 538:"Dressing the Part: Costume Sketches for Hollywood Films", Brooklyn Museum of Art, 1989 204: 151: 89: 82: 1283: 604:"Bonnie Cashin: An Elegant Solution", Goldstein Gallery, University of Minnesota, 2003 85:
is reported to have described Cashin as "the youngest designer to ever hit Broadway."
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An ensemble designed by Cashin in 1973 for Philip Sills & Co., on display at the
47: 1378: 1196:"bonnie cashin, the most copied fashion designer you've never heard of | read | i-D" 1675: 1670: 1637: 1607: 1582: 701: 664: 567:"American Ingenuity", The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1998 558:"Reel to Real: The Hollywood Designer After Film", Ohio State University, 1993-1994 128: 124: 607:"Seventh Avenue: Fashion Walk of Fame", Fashion Institute of Technology, 2003-2004 1691: 1522: 433: 577:"Japonsim in Fashion: Japan Dresses the West", Brooklyn Museum of Art, 1998-1999 167: 1717: 1527: 1512: 1457: 1384: 1358:
Bonnie Cashin Collection of Fashion, Theater and Film Costume Design, 1913-2000
420:, Cashin explained the origin of the skirt: "My studio, out in the country, in 354: 332: 220: 640:"American High Style: Fashioning a National Collection", Brooklyn Museum, 2010 580:"Bonnie Cashin: Practical Dreamer", Fashion Institute of Technology, 2000-2001 480:"Sporting Life", The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1972 1763: 1632: 1627: 1597: 1587: 1492: 1467: 1143: 991: 755: 195: 74: 1035: 841:"Bonnie Cashin, Who Helped Introduce Sportswear to Americans, Is Dead at 84" 1592: 1577: 1567: 1562: 1557: 1537: 1502: 1462: 1452: 1361: 216: 112: 497:"American Designer Show", Goldstein Gallery, University of Minnesota, 1978 432:
Cashin's work is housed in over forty museums across the US. In 1962, the
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In 1943, Cashin returned to Hollywood and costume design. After producer
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during the 1950s that made designer patterns available for home sewing.
1696: 1622: 1572: 677: 597:"Women Designers in the USA, 1900-2000: Diversity and Difference", The 591: 246: 212: 191: 1390: 1348: 1665: 1660: 1655: 1617: 773: 459: 358: 336: 235: 1507: 1253:"Bonnie Cashin as Revealed by Author and Archivist Stephanie Lake" 1743: 1517: 601:
for Studies in the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture, 2000-2001
548:"Paper Clothes: 1966-1991", Fashion Institute of Technology, 1991 1307:"The Forgotten Designer Behind Some of Fashion's Biggest Trends" 1132:"The Forgotten Designer Behind Some of Fashion's Biggest Trends" 405: 707:
Woolknit Associated Design Award for Special Achievement, 1961
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Alford, Holly Price; Stegemeyer, Anne (September 25, 2014).
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Rhode Island School of Design President's Fellow Award, 1985
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1962 'Cashin Carry' bag designed for Coach, cream leather (
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The Coty American Fashion Critics Hall of Fame Award, 1972
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Salute for Creative Contributions to American Design, 1960
115:, Cashin designed uniforms for women in the armed forces. 1200: 514:"Meet Bonnie Cashin: Clothes for the Twentieth Century", 785:
Leather Industries American Handbag Designer Award, 1976
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Leather Industries American Handbag Designer Award, 1968
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as a young girl. She also pioneered the use of leather,
357:'s then-husband Curtis Kellar, who was head counsel for 331:, whom Cashin described as her "little sister. In 2016, 1166:"Miles Cahn, Co-Founder of Coach Handbags, Dies at 95" 521:"American Style: Masterpieces of Fashion, 1880-1968", 273:
1967 brown suede tunic dress trimmed with blue leather
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In 1950, her introduction of the term and concept of "
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The Coty American Fashion Critics Special Award, 1961
551:"In Black and White: Dress from the 1920s to Today", 234:
Cashin designed for over thirty-five firms including
643:"Functional Fashions", Milwaukee Museum of Art, 2019 131:
and created clothes for about sixty films including
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Bonnie Cashin Collection, 1943-2000 (bulk 1950-1976
659:Awards and recognition for Cashin's work include: 39:dressmaker and before I could write I could sew." 1097:"Why Isn't Everyone Talking About Bonnie Cashin?" 692:Philadelphia Museum College of Art Citation, 1959 73:In 1934, Cashin moved with the ballet company to 1761: 1067: 261:1963 red leather and mohair knit hooded jumpsuit 1353:New York Public Library for the Performing Arts 633:"Inside the Designer's Studio: Bonnie Cashin", 436:presented the first retrospective of her work. 200:Patterns of The Times, American Designer Series 1349:Bonnie Cashin designs, circa 1933 - circa 1960 1406: 978:"Bonnie Cashin; Influential Fashion Designer" 698:The Coty American Fashion Critics Award, 1960 570:"Designing Women: American Style 1940-1960", 301:1968 dress and coat ensemble, blue wool tweed 470:at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1967-1968 1351:, held by the Billy Rose Theatre Division, 457:(untitled exhibition of Cashin's drawings) 118: 1413: 1399: 1368:American Ingenuity: Sportswear 1930s-1970s 1250: 791:Fashion Group Foundation Certificate, 1981 492:Goldstein Gallery, University of Minnesota 247:Coty American Fashion Critics Hall of Fame 942:American National Biography: Supplement 2 779:The American Fashion Award for Furs, 1975 341:Bonnie Cashin: Chic is Where You Find It. 313:1969 black jersey jumpsuit, bloomer legs. 104:While in New York, Cashin studied at the 34:Cashin was born on September 28, 1908 in 1304: 1129: 893:Bonnie Cashin: Chic is Where You Find It 767:The Mount Mary Golden Needle Award, 1970 745:Moscow International Fashion Award, 1967 742:The Lighthouse for the Blind Award, 1967 541:"Bonnie Cashin: Form Follows Function", 166: 57: 1420: 1335:Bonnie Cashin's personal design archive 1251:Feitelberg, Rosemary (April 14, 2016). 1157: 1094: 1825:People from Briarcliff Manor, New York 1820:Art Students League of New York alumni 1762: 1305:Petkanas, Christopher (May 10, 2016). 1229: 1227: 1225: 1223: 1130:Petkanas, Christopher (May 10, 2016). 938: 788:Woolknit Associates Design Award, 1980 695:Woolknit Associates Design Award, 1959 439:Exhibitions of Cashin's work include: 1394: 1246: 1244: 1190: 1188: 1163: 834: 516:State Historical Society of Wisconsin 450:"A Bonnie Cashin Living Sketchbook", 16:American fashion designer (1908–2000) 1800:20th-century American businesspeople 1125: 1123: 1121: 1119: 1063: 1061: 1059: 1012: 1010: 1008: 972: 970: 968: 966: 964: 962: 934: 932: 930: 928: 890: 886: 884: 882: 880: 878: 876: 874: 872: 870: 868: 838: 832: 830: 828: 826: 824: 822: 820: 818: 816: 814: 748:The Coty Fashion Critics Award, 1968 1795:20th-century American businesswomen 1790:20th-century American women artists 1220: 1164:Adams, Rachel (February 11, 2017). 159:that express some new silhouette." 13: 1241: 1185: 445:Philadelphia Museum College of Art 14: 1836: 1328: 1116: 1095:Neilson, Laura (March 31, 2023). 1056: 1005: 959: 925: 865: 853:from the original on May 27, 2015 811: 739:International Fashion Award, 1964 628:Robert Hillestad Textiles Gallery 475:The Museum of Contemporary Crafts 202:, which was a monthly feature in 1815:American women costume designers 1282:. March 12, 2011. Archived from 1280:"Stephanie Lake | Bonnie Cashin" 1204:. April 26, 2016. Archived from 945:. Oxford University Press, USA. 939:Carnes, Mark C. (May 12, 2005). 782:Drexel University Citation, 1976 668:Fashions America Does Best, 1938 345: 306: 294: 278: 266: 254: 190:" led to winning both her first 162: 68:In America: A Lexicon of Fashion 1785:People from Oakland, California 1298: 1272: 921:. Hearst Corp. January 1, 1973. 839:Nemy, Enid (February 5, 2000). 502:Fashion Institute of Technology 490:"Bonnie Cashin Retrospective", 318: 106:Art Students League of New York 1088: 909: 678:The Coty Fashion Critics Award 427: 1: 1074:. Bloomsbury Publishing USA. 804: 776:'s Great American Award, 1974 610:"Chic is Where You Find It", 523:Rhode Island School of Design 509:Shippensburg State University 211:In 1962, Cashin was hired by 127:recruited her, Cashin joined 29: 1805:Hollywood High School alumni 764:, The Creator Citation, 1969 728:Detroit Business Association 395: 335:published Lake's definitive 7: 1235:"The Bonnie Cashin Archive" 672:Neiman Marcus Fashion Award 590:"Bonnie Cashin for Coach", 285:1968 coat, black and white 10: 1841: 1810:American costume designers 1780:American fashion designers 626:"Bonnie Cashin Plus Six", 443:"Director's Choice"  219:as the first designer for 88:In 1937, at the urging of 64:Metropolitan Museum of Art 1726: 1705: 1684: 1646: 1428: 683:The Sporting Look Award, 654: 402:San Francisco's Chinatown 383: 353:In the 1970s, Cashin met 140:Anna and the King of Siam 53: 891:Lake, Stephanie (2016). 712:Lighthouse for the Blind 375: 146:A Tree Grows in Brooklyn 119:Hollywood costume design 1706:Other associated people 1603:Giorgio di Sant' Angelo 648:Lafayette Anticipations 485:Smithsonian Institution 111:After the U.S. entered 1048:: CS1 maint: others ( 466:"The Art of Fashion", 452:Brooklyn Museum of Art 176: 70: 1613:Diane von FĂĽrstenberg 1208:on September 21, 2016 553:Ohio State University 530:Cincinnati Art Museum 468:The Costume Institute 418:National Public Radio 416:2000 interview with 170: 61: 1739:Clothing terminology 1649:sportswear designers 1431:sportswear designers 1071:Who's Who in Fashion 986:. February 6, 2000. 798:Fashion Walk of Fame 730:National Award, 1963 599:Bard Graduate Center 483:"Suiting Everyone", 1749:History of clothing 1422:American sportswear 1364:Special Collections 758:Fashion Award, 1968 736:London Sunday Times 500:"Women Designers", 473:"Made With Paper", 36:Oakland, California 24:American sportswear 1311:The New York Times 1258:Women's Wear Daily 1171:The New York Times 1136:The New York Times 846:The New York Times 721:Sports Illustrated 686:Sports Illustrated 585:Phoenix Art Museum 583:"Way Haute West", 572:Wadsworth Atheneum 543:Mount Mary College 390:Women's Wear Daily 205:The New York Times 177: 71: 1757: 1756: 1734:The American Look 1448:Louella Ballerino 1286:on April 19, 2021 983:Los Angeles Times 918:Good Housekeeping 762:Saks Fifth Avenue 702:Lord & Taylor 635:Drexel University 366:midtown Manhattan 339:on the designer, 240:American Airlines 229:Crescendoe-Superb 48:Fanchon and Marco 1832: 1676:Behnaz Sarafpour 1671:Proenza Schouler 1608:Carolyn 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Magnin 460:Time-Life 396:Influence 359:Mobil Oil 337:monograph 66:exhibit, 1727:See also 1508:Tom Ford 1316:July 15, 1177:July 15, 1149:July 15, 1036:45486311 851:Archived 756:Kaufmann 370:UN Plaza 188:layering 155:(1945). 143:(1946), 137:(1944), 1744:Fashion 1518:Halston 1108:May 31, 333:Rizzoli 92:editor 83:Variety 1142:  1078:  1034:  1024:  990:  949:  899:  800:, 2001 689:, 1958 680:, 1950 674:, 1950 655:Awards 637:, 2007 630:, 2007 574:, 1998 555:, 1992 545:, 1991 532:, 1987 525:, 1986 511:, 1982 504:, 1981 494:, 1976 487:, 1974 454:, 1962 447:, 1961 406:mohair 384:Legacy 236:Hermès 54:Career 1638:Zoran 665:Vogue 376:Death 289:wool. 221:Coach 213:Miles 134:Laura 1438:Adri 1318:2023 1292:2016 1266:2016 1214:2016 1179:2023 1151:2023 1140:ISSN 1110:2023 1076:ISBN 1050:link 1032:OCLC 1022:ISBN 999:2016 988:ISSN 947:ISBN 897:ISBN 859:2021 754:The 734:The 726:The 710:The 612:UCLA 215:and 1344:FMD 1342:at 1201:i-D 1766:: 1309:. 1255:. 1243:^ 1222:^ 1198:. 1187:^ 1168:. 1138:. 1134:. 1118:^ 1099:. 1058:^ 1046:}} 1042:{{ 1030:. 1007:^ 980:. 961:^ 927:^ 867:^ 849:. 843:. 813:^ 372:. 249:. 242:. 183:. 108:. 1414:e 1407:t 1400:v 1320:. 1294:. 1268:. 1237:. 1216:. 1181:. 1153:. 1112:. 1084:. 1052:) 1038:. 1001:. 955:. 905:. 861:. 175:)

Index

American sportswear
Oakland, California
Hollywood High
Fanchon and Marco

Metropolitan Museum of Art
New York City
Roxy Theater
Variety
Harper's Bazaar
Carmel Snow
Seventh Avenue
Art Students League of New York
World War II
William Perlberg
20th Century Fox
Laura
Anna and the King of Siam
A Tree Grows in Brooklyn
Junior Miss

RISD Museum
Adler and Adler
layering
Coty Award
Neiman Marcus
The New York Times
Miles
Lillian Cahn
Coach

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