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209:, jealously protected their product. Cotton processing was tiny: in 1701, only 900,775 kilograms (1,985,868 lb) of cottonwool was imported into England, and by 1730 this had fallen to 701,014 kg (1,545,472 lb). This was due to commercial legislation to protect the woollen industry. Cheap
330:
fixed with two mordants, giving a red and black pattern. Polychromatic prints were possible, using two sets of blocks and an additional blue dye. The Indian taste was for dark printed backgrounds, while the
European market preferred a pattern on a cream base. As the century progressed the European
378:
46 printing concerns and 13 merchants combined, representing 85% of the
British printing capacity. Some of this capacity was removed and in 1901 Calico had 48% of the printing trade. In 1916, they and the other printers formed and joined a trade association, which then set minimum prices for each
261:
In 1764, 1,755,580 kg (3,870,392 lb) of cottonwool was imported. This change in consumption patterns, as a result of the restriction on imported finished goods, was a key part of the process that reduced the Indian economy from sophisticated textile production to the mere supply of raw
349:. The production volume for printed cloth in Lancashire in 1750 was estimated at 50,000 pieces of 27 metres (30 yards); in 1850, it was 20,000,000 pieces. The commercial method of calico printing using engraved rollers was invented in 1821 in
791:
457:
Printed calico was imported into the United States from
Lancashire in the 1780s, and here a linguistic separation occurred. While Europe maintained the word calico for the fabric, in the States it was used to refer to the printed design.
365:
of Potts, Oliver and Potts used a copper-engraved master to produce rollers to transfer the inks. After 1888, block printing was only used for short-run specialized jobs. After 1880, profits from printing fell due to
294:, that is, glazed calico with a large floral pattern, was primarily produced using painting techniques. Later, the hues were applied by wooden blocks, and the cloth manufacturers in Britain printed calico using
245:
was passed, enacting fines against anyone caught wearing printed or stained calico muslins, but neckcloths and fustians were exempted. The
Lancashire manufacturers exploited this exemption; coloured cotton
797:
438:
Muslin – UK: muslin gauze – simple, cheap equal weft and warp plain weave fabric in white, cream or unbleached cotton and/or a very fine, light plain weave cotton fabric
418:
Muslin gauze – US: muslin – simple, cheap equal weft and warp plain weave fabric in white, cream or unbleached cotton and/or a very fine, light plain weave cotton fabric
334:
255:
920:
Deazley, R. (2008) 'Commentary on the Calico
Printers' Act 1787', in Primary Sources on Copyright (1450–1900), eds L. Bently & M. Kretschmer,
161:, during the 11th century, where the cloth was known as "chaliyan". It was mentioned in Indian literature by the 12th century when the
225:
passed to prevent the importation of dyed or printed calicoes from India, China or Persia. This caused demand to switch to imported
237:, which they sent to London for finishing. Cottonwool imports recovered though, and by 1720 were almost back to their 1701 levels.
374:. In the first, three Scottish firms formed the United Turkey Red Co. Ltd in 1897, and the second, in 1899, was the much larger
229:
instead—calico that had not been finished—dyed or printed. These were printed with popular patterns in southern
England. Also,
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242:
921:
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These colourful, small-patterned printed fabrics gave rise to the use of the word calico to describe a cat coat colour:
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The trade association remained in operation until 1954, when the arrangement was challenged by the government
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materials. These events occurred under colonial rule, which started after 1757, and were described by
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Calico – simple, cheap equal weft and warp plain weave fabric in white, cream or unbleached cotton
279:
31:
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white cotton fabric, or cream or unbleached cotton, with a design block-printed using a single
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woollen manufacturers claimed that the imports were taking jobs away from their workers. The
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796:. House of Commons, London: Monopolies and Restrictive Practices Commission. Archived from
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901:. Illustrated with period fabric swatches. – digital facsimile from the Linda Hall Library
8:
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2018:
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465:. The patterned fabric also gave its name to two species of North American crabs; see
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under the
Ottoman Empire. Trade with Europe followed from the 17th century onwards.
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Sample of calico printed with a six-colour machine by Walter Crum & Co., from
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2003:
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The
Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through World History: 1801 to the Present
113:. However, it is still very cheap owing to its unfinished and undyed appearance.
872:
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Calico bag - a bag made of calico used by banks and other financial institutions
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preference moved from the large chintz patterns to smaller, tighter patterns.
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Cheesecloth – US: gauze – any very light fabric, generally with a plain weave
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101:. It may also contain unseparated husk parts. The fabric is far coarser than
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659:"India's De-Industrialization Under British Rule: New Ideas, New Evidence"
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Gauze – extremely soft and fine cotton fabric with a very open plain weave
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businessmen produced grey cloth with linen warp and cotton weft, known as
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patented a printing technique in 1783 that used copper rollers. In 1785,
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447:– UK: cheesecloth – any very light fabric, generally with a plain weave
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453:– extremely soft and fine cotton fabric with a very open plain weave
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386:. Over the intervening period much trade had been lost overseas.
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put the first machine that used this technique into operation in
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205:. That industry, centered in the east and south in towns such as
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and also some more recent scholars as "de-industrialization".
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314:. Confusingly, linen and silk printed this way were known as
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Muslin gauze – the very lightest, most open weave of muslin
247:
192:
82:
657:
Clingingsmith, David; Williamson, Jeffrey G. (June 2004).
435:
Calico – cotton fabric with a small, all-over floral print
128:. The raw fabric was dyed and printed in bright hues, and
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76:
70:
656:
556:
Oxford
Advanced Learner's Dictionary of Current English
2403:
2379:
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1694:
298:. Calico printers at work are depicted in one of the
97:
made from unbleached, and often not fully processed,
79:
67:
73:
64:
898:A practical handbook of dyeing and calico-printing
185:made its appearance in Cairo, then capital of the
525:Lynda Mugglestone "The Oxford History of English"
2598:
750:The history and gazetteer of the county of Derby
197:In the 18th century, England was famous for its
124:. It was made by the traditional weavers called
728:
726:
724:
703:"Maryhill Burgh Halls: Historic Stained Glass"
415:– a very fine, light plain weave cotton fabric
173:. Calico was woven using Gujarati cotton from
153:, from which the name of the textile came, in
942:
690:A History of Calico Printing in Great Britain
917:. where design fabric with calico technique.
773:"Calico Printers Association - Graces Guide"
322:. Early European calicoes (1680) were cheap
922:Copyright History 1787 Calico Printers' Act
721:
570:
568:
566:
564:
521:
116:The fabric was originally from the city of
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886:A dictionary of dyeing and calico printing
822:, 10th ed., p. 463, Pearson/Prentice-Hall
684:
682:
90:; in British usage since 1505) is a heavy
841:
740:
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644:
632:
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793:Report on the Process of Calico Printing
734:"You searched for calico, Muslin, gauze"
561:
393:
273:
254:warp were specifically permitted by the
193:Politics of cotton in the British Empire
38:
783:
679:
14:
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789:
746:
616:
614:
590:
402:In the UK, Australia and New Zealand:
169:described calico fabric prints with a
930:
863:
851:. London: Simpkin, Marshall, & Co
243:Woollen, etc., Manufactures Act 1720
611:
522:Mugglestone, Lynda (27 July 2006).
427:Tote bag - sometimes made of calico
181:. By the 15th century, calico from
24:
765:
269:
43:The weave of calico sample from a
25:
2643:
835:
790:Hughes, William (13 April 1954).
558:ISBN 019 431 5339, 2000, page 166
379:'price section' of the industry.
221:, had become popular. In 1700 an
105:, but less coarse and thick than
879:. Chicago: F. E. Compton and Co.
874:The New Student's Reference Work
864:Beach, Chandler B., ed. (1914).
597:. Vol. 3. Greenwood Press.
60:
812:
695:
339:Livesey, Hargreaves and Company
650:
638:
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584:
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370:and the firms started to form
13:
1:
889:– digital facsimile from the
818:Kadolph, Sara J., ed. (2007)
509:
663:NBER Working Paper No. 10586
376:Calico Printers' Association
7:
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284:Dyeing and Calico Printing
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1986:
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913:16 September 2021 at the
904:Baba Gee Calico Printing
2632:Cotton industry in India
2571:Swatches and strike-offs
2474:Vitale Barberis Canonico
747:Glover, Stephen (1831).
907:A calico Printing store
895:William Crookes (1874)
883:Charles O'Neill (1869)
575:Encyclopædia Britannica
280:Frederick Crace Calvert
32:Calico (disambiguation)
1612:Vinyl coated polyester
399:
287:
52:
2488:Manufacturingindustry
777:www.gracesguide.co.uk
591:Condra, Jill (2008).
397:
384:Monopolies Commission
296:wooden block printing
277:
149:Calico originated in
42:
2627:Economy of Kozhikode
2622:History of Kozhikode
2444:Holland & Sherry
707:Maryhill Burgh Halls
308:Maryhill Burgh Halls
30:For other uses, see
2546:History of textiles
848:Lancashire Worthies
256:1736 Manchester Act
2399:Woodblock printing
1928:Conductive textile
1097:Cedar bark textile
891:Linda Hall Library
843:Espinasse, Francis
800:on 21 January 2012
467:Ovalipes ocellatus
400:
288:
215:East India Company
213:, imported by the
132:became popular in
53:
2617:Indian inventions
2607:History of Kerala
2594:
2593:
1953:Lenticular fabric
1904:
1903:
1602:Vegetable flannel
494:Calico (goldfish)
223:Act of Parliament
219:Hindustān (India)
16:(Redirected from
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2576:Synthetic fabric
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2054:Tartan or plaid
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1918:Ballistic nylon
1900:
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672:10.3386/w10586
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388:
359:United Kingdom
343:Walton-le-Dale
316:linen calicoes
271:
268:
194:
191:
146:
143:
141:
138:
26:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
2644:
2633:
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2612:Woven fabrics
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2424:Carlo Barbera
2422:
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2390:
2389:Warp printing
2387:
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2365:Sanforization
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2326:Mercerization
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2081:(Manila hemp)
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1886:Needlerun net
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1871:Carbon fibers
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1192:Donegal tweed
1190:
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1147:Cloth of gold
1145:
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1003:
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997:Almerían silk
995:
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828:0-13-118769-4
825:
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774:
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753:. p. 216
752:
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668:
664:
660:
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647:, p. 299
646:
641:
635:, p. 298
634:
629:
623:, p. 296
622:
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604:9780313336652
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535:9780191623172
531:
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369:
364:
360:
356:
352:
348:
344:
340:
336:
332:
329:
325:
321:
320:silk calicoes
317:
313:
309:
305:
301:
300:stained glass
297:
293:
290:Early Indian
285:
281:
276:
267:
265:
259:
257:
253:
249:
244:
240:
236:
232:
228:
224:
220:
216:
212:
211:calico prints
208:
204:
203:worsted cloth
200:
190:
188:
184:
180:
179:warp and weft
177:for both the
176:
172:
168:
164:
160:
156:
152:
137:
135:
131:
130:calico prints
127:
123:
119:
114:
112:
108:
104:
100:
96:
93:
87:
57:
50:
46:
41:
37:
33:
19:
2510:Preservation
2417:Fabric mills
2394:Waxed cotton
1999:Bizarre silk
1757:Polar fleece
1492:Saga Nishiki
1487:Russell cord
1292:Harris tweed
1071:
1037:Brilliantine
1017:Bedford cord
983:(Medriñaque)
906:
897:
885:
873:
853:. Retrieved
847:
819:
814:
802:. Retrieved
798:the original
792:
785:
776:
767:
755:. Retrieved
749:
742:
711:. Retrieved
706:
697:
689:
662:
652:
640:
628:
593:
586:
574:
555:
551:
539:. Retrieved
524:
517:
460:
456:
430:
401:
381:
368:overcapacity
333:
328:alizarin dye
319:
315:
304:Stephen Adam
289:
283:
260:
196:
187:Egypt Eyalet
171:lotus design
148:
115:
55:
54:
45:shopping bag
36:
2520:Terminology
2505:Performance
2353:Rōketsuzome
2298:Heatsetting
2273:Calendering
2263:Bògòlanfini
2210:Spider silk
2024:Houndstooth
2019:Herringbone
1978:Windstopper
1823:Boiled wool
1342:Kente cloth
1332:Khaki drill
1312:Irish linen
1297:Herringbone
1162:Cotton duck
1122:Cheesecloth
981:Abacá cloth
757:26 November
504:Piece goods
499:Calico Jack
484:Calico Acts
479:Bafta cloth
451:Cheesecloth
431:In the US:
390:Terminology
335:Thomas Bell
324:plain weave
167:Hemachandra
165:and writer
155:South India
92:plain-woven
2601:Categories
2454:Loro Piana
2449:Larusmiani
2382:Tsutsugaki
2370:Tenterhook
2278:Decatising
2155:Microfiber
2059:Tattersall
2039:Pinstripes
2014:Glen plaid
1938:E-textiles
1805:Cedar bark
1762:Terrycloth
1709:Pile woven
1597:Ultrasuede
1527:Seersucker
1452:Perpetuana
1377:Madapollam
1322:Kerseymere
1107:Char cloth
1062:Byrd Cloth
1042:Broadcloth
1027:Beta cloth
855:1 December
804:8 December
688:Turnbull,
541:16 January
510:References
489:Calico cat
463:calico cat
363:John Potts
355:Derbyshire
347:Lancashire
231:Lancashire
227:grey cloth
49:centimetre
2566:Shrinkage
2515:Recycling
2439:E. Thomas
2288:Finishing
2226:Finishing
2170:Polyester
2120:Eisengarn
2044:Polka dot
1910:Technical
1838:Milliskin
1777:Velveteen
1732:Crimplene
1547:Shot silk
1472:Rayadillo
1467:Rakematiz
1367:Longcloth
1287:Haircloth
1277:Grosgrain
1267:Grenadine
1257:Ghalamkar
1252:Georgette
1237:Gabardine
1112:Charmeuse
1032:Bombazine
1022:Bengaline
1007:Barkcloth
713:27 August
357:, in the
351:New Mills
2556:Knitting
2459:Piacenza
2434:Dormeuil
2319:Katazome
2303:Indienne
2249:Beetling
2239:Androsia
2230:printing
2190:Sea silk
2165:Pashmina
2105:Cashmere
2049:Shweshwe
1987:Patterns
1973:SympaTex
1968:Stub-tex
1958:Silnylon
1948:Gore-Tex
1866:Bobbinet
1792:Nonwoven
1782:Zibeline
1747:Moquette
1727:Corduroy
1722:Chenille
1661:Figured
1642:Whipcord
1442:Paduasoy
1427:Osnaburg
1397:Nainsook
1387:Moleskin
1372:Mackinaw
1217:Eolienne
1177:Cretonne
1157:Corduroy
1092:Capilene
1087:Chambray
1067:C change
1002:Barathea
992:Armazine
911:Archived
845:(1874).
820:Textiles
579:"calico"
577:(2008).
473:See also
372:combines
306:for the
239:Coventry
163:polymath
126:cāliyans
2581:Weaving
2529:Related
2429:Cerruti
2293:Fulling
2268:Burnout
2256:Bingata
2205:Spandex
2085:Acrylic
2034:Paisley
1963:Spandex
1933:Darlexx
1923:Ban-Lon
1828:Coolmax
1815:Knitted
1742:Mockado
1737:Fustian
1690:Songket
1670:Brocade
1652:Zorbeez
1617:Viyella
1607:Ventile
1572:Ticking
1557:Taffeta
1517:Scarlet
1482:Ripstop
1447:Percale
1432:Ottoman
1422:Organza
1417:Organdy
1412:Oilskin
1402:Nankeen
1317:Jamdani
1282:Habutai
1262:Gingham
1232:Fustian
1227:Foulard
1222:Flannel
1212:Drugget
1152:Cordura
1127:Chiffon
1117:Charvet
1102:Challis
1077:Cambric
1052:Bunting
1047:Buckram
1012:Batiste
692:, 1951.
312:Glasgow
235:fustian
207:Norwich
199:woollen
183:Gujarat
151:Calicut
145:Origins
140:History
118:Calicut
95:textile
2536:Dyeing
2495:Design
2469:Scabal
2310:Kasuri
2283:Devoré
2160:Olefin
2145:Mohair
2135:Kevlar
2115:Cotton
2095:Angora
2090:Alpaca
2029:Kelsch
1994:Argyle
1943:Gannex
1858:Netted
1848:Velour
1843:Jersey
1772:Velvet
1685:Lampas
1680:Damask
1675:Camlet
1647:Zephyr
1632:Waffle
1627:Wadmal
1582:Tucuyo
1567:Tartan
1532:Sendal
1502:Sateen
1497:Samite
1462:Poplin
1457:Pongee
1437:Oxford
1392:Muslin
1382:Madras
1307:Hodden
1302:Himroo
1202:Dowlas
1197:Dornix
1187:Dimity
1167:Coutil
1142:Cloqué
1137:Chintz
1082:Canvas
1072:Calico
1057:Burlap
987:Aertex
958:Fabric
876:
826:
601:
532:
413:Muslin
292:chintz
286:(1878)
159:Kerala
157:, now
134:Europe
107:canvas
103:muslin
99:cotton
56:Calico
2561:Pandy
2541:Fiber
2479:Zegna
2406:Yūzen
2331:Moire
2244:Batik
2200:Sisal
2185:Rayon
2180:Ramie
2150:Nylon
2140:Linen
2100:Bashō
2079:Abacá
2009:Chiné
2004:Check
1896:Tulle
1891:Ninon
1752:Plush
1717:Baize
1697:Rinzu
1663:woven
1637:Wigan
1622:Voile
1592:Twill
1587:Tweed
1577:Toile
1552:Stuff
1542:Scrim
1537:Serge
1507:Satin
1407:Ninon
1362:Loden
1327:Khādī
1247:Gazar
1242:Gauze
1207:Drill
1182:Denim
1172:Crêpe
1132:Chino
973:Woven
965:Types
445:Gauze
264:Nehru
252:linen
250:with
217:from
175:Surat
122:India
111:denim
51:scale
2586:Yarn
2464:Reda
2215:Wool
2195:Silk
2175:Piña
2130:Jute
2125:Hemp
2110:Coir
1881:Mesh
1876:Lace
1800:Felt
1562:Tais
1512:Saye
1352:Lawn
1347:Lamé
857:2010
824:ISBN
806:2010
759:2009
715:2022
599:ISBN
543:2014
530:ISBN
318:and
248:weft
201:and
2336:Nap
2228:and
1477:Rep
667:doi
109:or
2603::
870:.
775:.
723:^
705:.
681:^
665:.
661:.
613:^
563:^
469:.
361:.
353:,
345:,
310:,
282:,
258:.
136:.
83:oʊ
950:e
943:t
936:v
859:.
808:.
779:.
761:.
736:.
717:.
675:.
669::
607:.
581:.
545:.
86:/
80:k
77:ɪ
74:l
71:æ
68:k
65:ˈ
62:/
58:(
34:.
20:)
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
