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production of molas for the sole purpose of a sale to outsiders started to flourish after the second World War. Molas are very sturdy and well sewn. Authentic molas have already been washed many times and can be safely hand washed in warm water. Molas are often sold in pairs, the pair consisting of the back and front panels of a blouse. The two molas are usually two variations on a theme. Matched molas complement each other and should be kept together.
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172:, the Guna's native language, "mola" means "shirt" or "clothing". The mola originated with the tradition of Guna women painting their bodies with geometric designs, using available natural colors; at a certain point, after the arrival of the Spanish, these same designs were woven in cotton, and later still, sewn using cloth "acquired by trade from the ships that came to barter for coconuts during the 19th century".
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on the best molas being close to invisible. Although some molas rely on embroidery to enhance the design, a good looking mola is always constructed using the reverse-appliqué method as the leading technique. A mola can take from two weeks to six months to make, depending on the complexity of the design.
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The largest pattern is typically cut from the top layer, and progressively smaller patterns from each subsequent layer, thus revealing the colors beneath in successive layers. This basic scheme can be varied by cutting through multiple layers at once, hence varying the sequence of colours; some molas
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Molas vary greatly in quality, and the pricing to buyers varies accordingly. A greater number of layers is generally a sign of higher quality; two-layer molas are common, but examples with four or more layers will demand a better price. The quality of stitching is also a factor, with the stitching
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The quality of a mola is determined by such factors as the number of layers, fineness of the stitching, evenness and width of cutouts, addition of details such as zigzag borders, lattice-work or embroidery, color combination, and, as Mari Lyn
Salvador put it, "skillful manipulation of the technical
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The artistry of a mola reflects a synthesis of traditional Guna culture with the influences of the modern world. Mola art developed when Guna women had access to store bought yard goods. Mola designs are often inspired by modern graphics such as political posters, labels, pictures from books and TV
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Molas may have their origin in body painting. In 1514, Pasqual de
Andagoya, arrived in Darian and wrote.. the women are very well dressed, in embroidered cotton mantles which extend down so as to cover their feet, but the arms and bosom are uncovered." They did not wear blouses even in 1688 until
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Since mola panels have been worn as part of the traditional blouse of a Guna woman, they often show signs of wear such as fading and stitch marks along the edges of the panels. These "imperfections" indicate that the mola is authentic and not made solely to be sold to tourists, albeit a strong
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Molas are hand-made using a reverse appliqué technique. Several layers (usually two to seven) of different-colored cloth (usually cotton) are sewn together; the design is then formed by cutting away parts of each layer. The edges of the layers are then turned under and sewn down. Often, the
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After the attempt of the
Panamanian government to "westernize" the Guna, the Guna greatly objected to the control on their cultural dress, and ethnic identity, and showed great strength in their reaction to the bans implemented by the government, leading to the
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As an inspiration for their designs, the Guna first used the geometrical patterns which have been used for body painting before. In the past, they have also depicted realistic and abstract designs of flowers, sea animals and birds, and popular culture.
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There was a strong link between traditional dress and Guna culture and identity. Molas have such an importance for the Guna people and their traditional identity that they can be considered responsible for the independent status of the
Comarca
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Geometric molas are the most traditional, having developed from ancient body painting designs. Many hours of careful sewing are required to create a fine mola. The ability to make an outstanding mola is a source of status among Guna women.
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Depending on the tradition of each island, Guna women begin the crafting of molas either after they reach puberty, or at a much younger age. Women who prefer to dress in western style are in the minority as well as in the communities in
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By 1907, the traditional costume of a Guna woman consists of a patterned blue cotton wrapped skirt, red and yellow headscarf, arm and leg beads, gold nose rings and earrings and the many layered and finely sewn mola panel blouse.
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stitches are nearly invisible. This is achieved by using a thread the same color as the layer being sewn, sewing blind stitches, and sewing tiny stitches. The finest molas have extremely fine stitching, made using tiny needles.
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process and the amount of work involved, together with the design considerations which include filled space, repetition with subtle variation, subtle asymmetry, visibility, complexity, and interesting subject matter".
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Several early influences can be attested: a small colony by
Christopher Columbus in 1502, a Scottish colony established in the south of Darien, in 1698; the Calvinist or French
168:(olasu) and earrings in addition to the mola blouse (dulemor). Two groups, Choco and Cuna lived side by side without intermarriage and without adopting a similar culture. In
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In 1925 for three years following the revolution, women were required to once again adopt traditional dress as a form of rebellion against the government. Women on
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In 1919, the
Panamanian government began a policy of forced assimilation banning mola's dress and nose piercing in women. The government introduced these laws to
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and other more progressive islands were forced to wear mola, even if they had never worn this traditional dress, and their noses had to be pierced by force.
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did the Guna start to transfer their traditional geometric designs on fabric, first by painting directly on the fabric and later by using the technique of
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also incorporate patches of contrasting colours, included in the design at certain points to introduce additional variations of color.
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Molas from the San Blas
Islands: a loan exhibition from the F. Louis Hoover Collection of Cuna Art, December 19, 1968-January 19, 1969
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This closeup of a mola by
Venancio Restrepo shows the layering of the different colors of cloth, and the fine stitching involved.
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settled and married some Cuna women, even though they were killed in 1757. Ultimately a
Spanish colony was established in 1790.
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is a hand-made textile that forms part of the traditional women's clothing of the indigenous
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Secrets of the Cuna Earthmother: A Comparative Study of Ancient Religions Illustrated
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602:(1997). "Looking Back: Contemporary Kuna Women's Arts". In Salvador, Mari Lyn (ed.).
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788:(2003). "Kuna Women's Arts: Molas, Meanings and Markets". In Barta, Eli (ed.).
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This traditional mola represents the olasu, a nose ring worn by the Guna women.
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The Art of Cutwork and Applique: From Historic, Modern and Kuna Indian Designs
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Howe, James (1997). "The Kuna Portray Their Own Revolutionary History". In
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cartoons, as well as traditional themes from Guna legends and culture.
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A Guna woman displays a selection of molas for sale at her home in the
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Crafting Gender: Women and Folk art in Latin America and the Caribbean
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The Art of Being Kuna: Layers of Meaning Among the Kuna of Panama
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The Art of Being Kuna: Layers of Meaning Among the Kuna of Panama
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University of Connecticut - The William Benton Museum of Art
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Cuna Indian Art: The Culture and Craft of Panama's San Blas
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391:"The Molas of San Blas Islands: A Historical Perspective"
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539:: Parque Explora for Museo del Oro Colombia (YouTube)
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696:- Fowler Museum of Cultural History. pp. 146–9.
625:. Austin: University of Texas Press. pp. 63–4.
575:"Guna Yala: The islands where women make the rules"
370:. Center for Inter-American Relations Art Gallery.
56:. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed.
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610:- Fowler Museum of Cultural History. p. 177.
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836:"Fashioning Identity: Mola Textiles of Panamá"
768:Magnificent Molas: The Art of the Kuna Indians
469:Magnificent molas: the art of the Kuna Indians
196:they had been introduced by the missionaries.
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834:Andrea Vazquez de Arthur (22 November 2020).
558:Angermuller, Linnea; Chaves, Enrique (1972).
1034:List of North American pieced quilt patterns
641:Marks, Diana (1 May 2014). "The Kuna Mola".
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623:Kuna Crafts, Gender, and the Global Economy
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116:Learn how and when to remove this message
1279:San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles
1254:Museum of the American Quilter's Society
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1284:Conservation and Restoration of Quilts
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792:. Durham, NC: Duke University Press.
721:Molakana: Volkskunst der Cuna, Panama
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535:(in Spanish - subtitles in English).
1908:Colombia–Peru War (Leticia Incident)
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54:adding citations to reliable sources
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751:. New York City: Barre Publishing.
749:Molas: Folk Art of the Cuna Indians
723:. Berlin: Museum fĂĽr Voelkerkunde.
573:Egle Gerulaityte (14 August 2018).
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742:. New York City: Exposition Press.
712:Mola Art From the San Blas Islands
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471:. Translated by Dusinberre, Deke.
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300:Guna society and assert control.
1851:Military career of SimĂłn BolĂvar
1249:International Quilt Study Center
747:Parker, Ann; Neal, Avon (1977).
347:Emma Capponi (16 October 2020).
30:
2605:Freedom of religion in Colombia
1930:Current internal armed conflict
1846:United Provinces of New Granada
714:. K.S. Kapp Publications. 1972.
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655:10.1179/0361211214Z.00000000021
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560:About Molas / Hablando De Molas
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41:needs additional citations for
1381:Reunification of Gran Colombia
874:Renate Wetter; Marion Wetter.
854:Renate Wetter; Marion Wetter.
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349:"Textiles of the World: Molas"
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2702:Colombia in popular culture
2475:Water supply and sanitation
1893:Colombian Civil War of 1895
1656:Water supply and sanitation
1123:Underground Railroad quilts
924:Layered textiles and quilts
562:. Florida State University.
529:Gloria Esperanza MartĂnez.
201:colonization by the Spanish
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1836:Viceroyalty of New Granada
719:Hartmann, GĂĽnther (1980).
475:: Flammarion. p. 25.
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815:"Mola Textiles of Panama"
738:Keeler, Clyde E. (1960).
442:Keeler, Clyde E. (1969).
366:Hoover, F. Louis (1969).
2782:Circum-Caribbean culture
1464:Administrative divisions
1376:Separation from Colombia
1244:Great Lakes Quilt Center
415:Oswaldo DeLeĂłn Kantule.
176:Development of the style
1935:Colombian peace process
1878:Granadine Confederation
1873:Republic of New Granada
840:Cleveland Museum of Art
766:Perrin, Michel (1999).
621:Tice, Karin E. (1995).
467:Perrin, Michel (2000).
137:woman selling Molas in
2787:Kuna words and phrases
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2128:Indigenous territories
1831:Kingdom of New Granada
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1264:Quilters Hall of Fame
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770:. Paris: Flammarion.
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252:Molas in Guna Culture
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2528:World Heritage Sites
2498:Archaeological sites
2232:Council of Ministers
2036:World Heritage Sites
2026:Environmental issues
2003:Valleys and Plateaus
1903:Separation of Panama
1888:Republic of Colombia
1856:Wars of independence
1821:Muisca Confederation
1132:Notable modern works
876:"How to make a Mola"
504:Puls, Herta (1978).
446:. Exposition Press.
65:"Mola" art form
50:improve this article
19:For other uses, see
2692:Guerrilla movements
2237:Government agencies
2210:Comptroller General
1237:museums, and events
1186:Jennifer Chiaverini
1139:AIDS Memorial Quilt
1100:History of quilting
2465:Race and ethnicity
2378:Telecommunications
2111:Metropolitan areas
1898:Thousand Days' War
1841:Foolish Fatherland
1816:Indigenous peoples
1590:Telecommunications
1191:Mary Cozens-Walker
1145:Quilt of Belonging
1029:Foundation piecing
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786:Salvador, Mari Lyn
686:Salvador, Mari Lyn
600:Salvador, Mari Lyn
532:La mujer y la mola
508:. Batsford Books.
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1108:Gee's Bend quilts
1049:Possum-skin cloak
856:"What are Molas?"
821:. 23 January 2022
799:978-0-8223-3170-4
777:978-2-08-013674-9
389:Paul B. Goodwin.
203:and contact with
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106:November 2023
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70:
67: –
66:
62:
61:Find sources:
55:
51:
45:
44:
39:This article
37:
33:
28:
27:
22:
2633:Human rights
2588:Coat of arms
2518:Video gaming
2503:Architecture
2445:Demographics
2388:Trade unions
2328:Central bank
2197:Constitution
2172:Conservatism
2120:
2093:Subdivisions
1961:Biodiversity
1919:La Violencia
1917:
1913:World War II
1631:Demographics
1585:Panama Canal
1499:Penal system
1469:Constitution
1176:Sandy Bonsib
1157:
1150:
1143:
1079:
883:. Retrieved
879:
863:. Retrieved
859:
843:. Retrieved
839:
823:. Retrieved
818:
789:
767:
748:
739:
720:
711:
689:
679:
649:(1): 17–30.
646:
642:
622:
616:
603:
594:
582:. Retrieved
579:BBC / Travel
578:
568:
559:
553:
541:. Retrieved
531:
524:
505:
499:
468:
462:
443:
437:
425:. Retrieved
421:the original
410:
398:. Retrieved
394:
384:
367:
361:
352:
318:
310:
302:
295:
286:
282:
278:
274:
270:
263:
246:
242:
230:
227:Construction
217:
213:
205:missionaries
198:
194:
191:
149:
145:
143:
127:
112:
103:
93:
86:
79:
72:
60:
48:Please help
43:verification
40:
2650:Immigration
2548:Handicrafts
2470:Health care
2345:Agriculture
2163:Ideologies
2101:Departments
1646:LGBT rights
1562:Agriculture
1418:Earthquakes
1259:Quilt Index
1221:Molly Upton
1113:Rajah Quilt
1090:Ribbon work
987:Ralli quilt
880:Panama Mola
860:Panama Mola
353:Sewcialists
221:Panama City
199:Only after
154:Guna people
139:Panama City
2761:Categories
2680:Corruption
2655:Emigration
2553:Literature
2433:Colombians
2362:(currency)
2189:Governance
2167:Liberalism
1689:Literature
1574:(currency)
1509:Presidents
1413:Darién Gap
327:References
298:Westernize
76:newspapers
2685:Terrorism
2538:Festivals
2533:Carnivals
2455:Languages
2450:Education
2335:Companies
2259:Judiciary
2242:President
2227:Executive
2220:Ombudsman
2177:Communism
2159:Elections
2074:OrinoquĂa
2064:Caribbean
1988:Mountains
1945:Geography
1636:Education
1600:Transport
1529:SENAFRONT
1474:Elections
1438:Volcanism
1391:Geography
1363:1964–1977
1358:1904–1964
1353:1821–1903
1085:Penny rug
1075:Khayamiya
1044:Patchwork
1039:Log Cabin
1017:Patchwork
972:Quilt art
885:15 August
865:15 August
845:15 August
825:15 August
671:128783858
663:0361-2112
584:15 August
543:15 August
427:15 August
400:15 August
306:Kuna Yala
266:Huguenots
166:nose ring
2741:Category
2638:Intersex
2543:Folklore
2460:Religion
2428:Abortion
2383:Taxation
2350:Industry
2279:Military
2264:Congress
2201:Control
2142:Politics
1811:Timeline
1795:articles
1791:Colombia
1744:Category
1651:Religion
1452:Politics
1332:articles
1065:Appliqué
1058:Applique
997:Trapunto
977:Quilting
930:Quilting
819:selvedge
537:MedellĂn
491:43849654
170:Dulegaya
162:Colombia
2725:Outline
2665:Smoking
2660:Poverty
2578:Theater
2523:Cuisine
2490:Culture
2412:Society
2393:Tourism
2323:Banking
2311:Economy
2069:Insular
1993:Islands
1983:Geology
1978:Climate
1803:History
1728:Outline
1674:Cuisine
1666:Culture
1614:Society
1595:Tourism
1572:Balboa
1567:Banking
1550:Economy
1423:Islands
1370:present
1348:to 1821
1340:History
1181:Jo Budd
688:(ed.).
417:"Molas"
321:Nargana
90:scholar
2746:Portal
2625:Issues
2513:Cinema
2269:Police
2059:Andean
2054:Amazon
1998:Rivers
1793:
1749:Portal
1704:People
1641:Health
1433:Rivers
1408:Cities
1330:
1328:Panama
1169:People
982:Quilts
796:
774:
755:
727:
669:
661:
512:
489:
479:
450:
374:
158:Panamá
92:
85:
78:
71:
63:
2732:Index
2670:Crime
2615:Sport
2573:Music
2558:Media
2480:Women
2360:Peso
1971:Flora
1966:Fauna
1735:Index
1699:Music
1694:Media
1679:Films
1626:Crime
1524:SENAN
1403:Biota
1368:1977–
667:S2CID
643:Dress
473:Paris
156:from
150:Molas
97:JSTOR
83:books
2643:LGBT
2593:Flag
2438:list
2297:Navy
2292:Army
1684:Flag
1080:Mola
887:2023
867:2023
847:2023
827:2023
794:ISBN
772:ISBN
753:ISBN
725:ISBN
694:UCLA
659:ISSN
608:UCLA
586:2023
545:2023
510:ISBN
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