160:, had not been a conspicuous success, no criticisms of his leadership had been voiced. The mountaineering establishment did not think that the decision against using supplementary oxygen had contributed to the expedition not reaching the summit. Anyway, the Mount Everest Committee requested permission from Tibet for a further attempt on the mountain and reappointed Ruttledge as leader. This did not please some people, particularly the younger climbers, who viewed the requirement to be the technical climbing of the mountain, to be led from the front, and not a geographical exploration planned and led by men with no recent experience of mountaineering. The mild-mannered Ruttledge (who was 50 years old and walked with a limp) took the brunt of the criticism and in March 1934 his offer to resign from the leadership was accepted by the committee which expressed its regret and said it was in any case unlikely there would be an expedition in the near future.
540:) and it was only gradually discovered that the post-monsoon period is not necessarily unfavourable. The lightweight approach had, in itself, not been a clear success. Everest expeditions, and especially British-led ones, reverted to the large scale military type and this was to continue into the 1970s. Tilman and Bryant had not coped at all well above 23,000 feet (7,000 m) and so they were ruled out for 1936. It was not understood at that time that a climber's acclimatisation can vary greatly from year to year. Tilman was to prove this point because in 1936 he and
393:
1627:
506:"However, we have seen this Western Glacier and are not sorry we have not to go up it. It is terribly steep and broken." Shipton and Bryant reached the same point on 9 August 1935 but, despite waiting several hours, mist prevented any view of the Cwm. They again reached the col on 11 August and on this occasion the mist cleared after many hours and they were able to get the first photograph of the
25:
293:, who had been on all the Everest expeditions since 1922, they engaged fourteen Sherpas but Shipton decided he needed perhaps a couple more and a nineteen-year-old was selected. He was completely inexperienced in mountaineering but was chosen according to Shipton largely because of his attractive grin –
421:
On 16 July they started to descend from the Col. Reaching the traverse they found there had been an immense avalanche which had carried away both old and new snow to a depth of about 6 feet (2 m) and this showed that their ascent had actually been very hazardous. They reached camp III safety but
179:
and the 1933 expedition). Taken aback, Ruttledge resigned again. Unable to continue with
Ruttledge but unwilling to appoint Crawford, who many on the committee saw as the cause of the trouble, as late as March 1935 the leadership was being offered to at least seven other people, all of whom declined.
531:
The expedition's experiences led to some questionable conclusions being drawn. The monsoon conditions had been bad and climbing had not been possible over 23,000 feet (7,000 m). Also, it was not realised that in 1935 the monsoon had been exceptionally late (starting 26 June) – at this time
510:
leading up to the
Western Cwm. Bryant wrote "A westerly spur of Nuptse curled round to the north thus squeezing the glacier of the upper basin into a narrow lip over which it poured in a gigantic ice-fall, a wild tumble of contorted ice, to the Khumbu Glacier 2,000 feet below. The cwm itself must be
417:
and chocolate were now added to the menu much to the relief of most of the party. The old route up to the col was this year not passable so they took a line to the right that then required a long traverse. They reached the 23,030-foot (7,020 m) Col at a second attempt on 12 July but from there
379:
and onto the traditional road. Earlier from Nyonno Ri they had had a fine view of
Everest in unusually good weather conditions and it has since been speculated that, had they made a dash for the summit, they might have succeeded. However, Shipton made no such bid, and indeed it was forbidden by his
523:
The expedition had succeeded in climbing 26 peaks of over 20,000 feet (6,100 m) – as many as had been achieved by all previous mountaineering expeditions put together. Of these, 24 were first ascents. In 1994 Warren remembered, "This surely must have been one of the most enjoyable of all
232:
had been very praising of the Nanda Devi trek and so this approach would be used for 1935 on
Everest. The reconnaissance could be mounted quickly and paid for out of the existing funds of £1,400 so that all the new funds raised could be allocated to the 1936 bid for the summit. Shipton was offered
224:
gorge. Shipton and Tilman started planning a return trip for 1935, this time hoping to reach Nanda Devi's summit by its South Ridge. In
February 1935, before that trip had been started, Shipton spoke about Nanda Devi at a Royal Geographical Society meeting and received a "rapturous" reception by a
571:
he received an application from an unknown New
Zealander at a time when British climbers were strongly favoured. With happy memories of Bryant, Shipton personally decided to appoint the New Zealander later writing, "My momentary caprice was to have far reaching results". Following his success in
171:. There was too little time and money available to embark on anything more elaborate in that year. Purely out of courtesy, they offered the leadership to Ruttledge who caught them by surprise by accepting. This produced a storm of protest with a faction arising that supported for the leadership
281:
tablets. This contrasted with the caviare, foie gras, quails' eggs and lobster of 1933 and even
Shipton later admitted "In 1935 I went rather too far the other way: it was bad policy to force people who were quite unused to rough food to make such a complete break with their normal diet."
524:
the expeditions to Mount
Everest. It was small and achieved the objectives set for it at little cost." Judged in these ways, and by the surveying results achieved, the expedition was a success but one that never caught the imagination of the press or public – it was the only pre-
245:. Explicitly there was to be no summit attempt and supplementary oxygen was not going to be used. Tilman initially regretted having to abandon the Nanda Devi summit attempt but Shipton persuaded him by the lightweight exploratory nature of what was being planned. Charles Warren and
207:
separately from the rest of the party using an entirely unexplored route. This led to him favouring mountain climbing by trekking, with exploration being the main aim, rather than the type of largescale expedition such as the one he had just been on. The following year, he and
233:
the leadership of the 1935 slot with
Ruttledge's approval. He would not be able to reach the region before July which was expected to be after the start of the monsoon but this would allow the team to find out whether the monsoon snow had sufficiently consolidated.
466:
from where they decided that the West Ridge provided no way to the summit and that from the Lho La itself there was no means of descent to the
Western Cwm. They all met up on at Rongbuk on 14 August from where they all attempted the 24,730-foot (7,540 m)
532:
the timing of the monsoon was not really understood at all. The intended pre-monsoon 1936 expedition was wrecked by the particularly early monsoon that started that year on 25 May. All this led to no post-monsoon attempts being made on Everest until the
408:
on 8 July – in good time despite general poor health. Bryant had been particularly ill – he had lost 14 pounds (6.4 kg) in three days – so he descended to Rongbuk. While moving camp III slightly higher they discovered the remains of
180:
The committee was forced into a difficult meeting to interview Ruttledge and Crawford for the position and the subsequent vote was a tie, resolved by the chairman voting for Ruttledge. Further rancour led to Crawford being removed from the committee,
109:. The monsoon was unusually late that year and beset by the weather and difficult conditions of snow, little was achieved regarding the summit. However, a very large number of lesser peaks were climbed for the first time and a southern route up the
511:
an amazing place, completely ringed in as it is, except for that narrow entrance, by a mountain wall nowhere less than 25,000 feet high." Shipton reported how the Sherpas became quite excited as they recognised landmarks in their homeland, the
257:
added to the team. Spender had made himself extremely unpopular on earlier expeditions due to his conceit and there were rumours that his inclusion was due to mischief making. All the same, Shipton and Spender became close friends.
442:. Then Kempson and Warren climbed the 23,070-foot (7,030 m) Kharta Changri and two other nearby peaks while Spender surveyed that region and also while Shipton, Wigram and Tilman climbed 23,190-foot (7,070 m)
658:
Unsworth gives the following dates for the start of the monsoon: 7 July 1921, first week of June 1922, 16 June 1924, 30 May 1933, 26 June 1935, 25 May 1936,
449:
Kempson had to return home but the rest of the party divided into three mountaineering pairs. Spender and Warren continued the survey. Shipton and Bryant travelled to the West Rongbuk Glacier to make first ascents of
225:
large audience who was attracted as much by his charisma as his mountaineering achievements. One aspect would turn out to be of great interest to the Everest Committee – the entire expedition had cost £287.
2001:
471:
but had to give up at 23,000 feet (7,000 m) because of snow. The Changtse attempt had been deliberately delayed to test high-altitude snow conditions at different stages of the monsoon.
1369:
478:
hoping to again explore Nyonno Ri but this was forbidden by the authorities. On the border of Tibet and Sikkim they climbed in the Dodang Nyima range before getting back to Darjeeling.
105:
Compared with what had gone before and had followed, it was a small, low-cost affair. The approach was from the north side of the mountain and the climbing was planned to be after the
375:) mountains they split into three groups for exploration. This had all been contrary to the stipulations in their passports issued by Tibet and they were ordered back north through
2095:
563:. In fact he was on all the subsequent British expeditions, including 1936 and 1938, culminating in his reaching the summit of Everest in 1953. On the 1935 occasion New Zealander
347:
316:
1234:
1733:
438:
The party then split up to take part in what Shipton described as "a veritable orgy of mountain climbing". Two teams separately climbed the 23,640-foot (7,210 m)
1405:
The Six Mountain-Travel Books: Nanda Devi; Blank on the Map; Upon That Mountain; Mt. Everest Reconnaissance Expedition 1951; Mountains of Tartary; and Land of Tempest
462:
in Nepal Shipton thought this might provide a route worth exploring for a southern attempt on Everest's summit. Tilman and Wigram went up the main Rongbuk Glacier to
567:
had not been good at altitude but he had become very popular and particularly well-respected by the rest of the party. When Shipton was assembling his team for the
228:
Following Tibet's unexpected offer, the Mount Everest Committee decided on an attempt on the summit for 1936 but preceded by a reconnaissance in the current year.
422:
decided that any further attempt on the Col was far too dangerous. Whilst this had been going on Spender had been surveying and Wigram and Tilman had climbed the
413:, the eccentric British solo climber who had died in 1934. They went on to set up camp next to a food dump that had been left in 1933 – Carlsbad plums from
167:
government gave permission for Everest expeditions in 1935 and 1936, the committee decided to send out a reconnaissance expedition to take place after the 1935
1723:
1718:
1693:
1643:
568:
537:
242:
137:
121:
241:
As well as testing conditions during and after the monsoon, the expedition was to test likely climbers for 1936 and follow up the exploratory work of the
515:. He said of the route up the icefall and cwm "it did not look impossible, and I should very much like to have the opportunity one day of exploring it".
443:
2100:
120:
Eventually, the expedition would have considerable influence on post-war British efforts on Everest from Nepal, with Shipton himself leading the
1764:
2154:
290:
2169:
1663:
310:
253:, an ice climber from New Zealand agreed to take part. Shipton considered this complement quite ample but he found he had a surveyor,
217:
95:
1738:
1226:
269:
a day in conjunction with locally sourced food. Lentils, dried vegetables and powdered milk were on the menu with the addition of
1688:
1491:
1838:
1753:
1748:
1728:
1713:
1126:
1983:
1708:
1703:
1683:
1678:
1668:
1653:
1648:
552:
176:
153:
83:
1446:
261:
Shipton deplored the extravagant lifestyle practised by the earlier British expeditions. He consulted a nutritionist at the
1996:
43:
35:
2149:
1698:
560:
533:
1423:
2144:
1268:
184:
resigning in protest, and a number of resignations from the Alpine Club for its refusal to support Crawford's protest.
1635:
1412:
1306:
61:
446:
and three more mountains. All the peaks, including those mentioned in passing, are over 21,000 feet (6,400 m).
156:, a new team of climbers had reached as high as ever before and it was felt they had done well. Even if the leader,
2021:
1743:
559:
had been impressive in 1935 – in future years he went on to be Sherpa many times on Everest, including on the
1333:
1932:
1358:
544:
were to make the first ascent of the 25,645-foot (7,817 m) Nanda Devi, the highest mountain climbed until
426:
and its two flanking peaks. Lhakpa La is the col that was traversed by the 1921 expedition after ascending the
1317:
2087:
2026:
2118:
172:
2006:
1991:
1847:
1657:
1484:
1892:
145:
649:
Mallory had taken a photograph in 1921 that showed the Icefall but the Western Cwm was hidden in mist.
1908:
1823:
1802:
564:
309: – further south and nearer to Nepal than earlier expeditions had used. When they reached the
250:
2164:
1958:
1828:
141:
87:
2159:
1943:
1592:
1477:
2041:
2036:
2031:
2016:
2011:
1861:
168:
106:
1938:
1572:
418:
upward there was continuous heavy monsoon snow and conditions underfoot proved impossible.
401:
8:
1884:
1876:
1870:
181:
1972:
1919:
1516:
760:
1965:
1797:
1772:
1542:
1408:
1354:
1302:
1264:
414:
381:
140:
but none had managed to reach the summit. These had been planned and financed by the
1279:
1853:
1531:
1119:"Book review: Mount Everest The Reconnaissance 1935 – The Forgotten Adventure"
1118:
752:
525:
278:
262:
1597:
1582:
254:
1454:
2110:
1901:
1792:
1777:
1577:
1552:
1547:
1536:
637:
573:
556:
507:
487:
410:
400:
Leaving Spender to survey the region of the North Face, the party ascended the
392:
294:
200:
157:
2138:
2123:
1925:
1500:
475:
427:
362:
349:
331:
318:
274:
270:
246:
229:
133:
1950:
1787:
1626:
1526:
192:
91:
1782:
1616:
1608:
1602:
1521:
512:
503:
491:
459:
455:
221:
209:
199:
when he had taken part in the 1933 Everest expedition after which he and
149:
110:
117:
could ever be persuaded to change its policy of not admitting climbers.
1914:
1807:
764:
541:
306:
286:
213:
99:
743:
Shipton, Eric (February 1935). "Nanda Devi and the Ganges Watershed".
249:, both Cambridge medics, Edwin Kempson a Cambridge mathematician, and
2057:
1587:
1567:
1557:
1261:
Mount Everest : The Reconnaissance 1935: The Forgotten Adventure
545:
439:
423:
405:
756:
2067:
499:
468:
451:
376:
266:
196:
627:
Shipton's versions of events are not always to be taken seriously.
1469:
2077:
2072:
2062:
1562:
676:
495:
463:
298:
204:
1184:
1182:
1180:
1056:
1010:
1008:
1006:
933:
931:
929:
927:
925:
923:
921:
919:
851:
849:
834:
302:
164:
114:
75:
1227:"How the whim of Eric Shipton shaped the history of Everest"
1165:
1153:
882:
880:
878:
876:
824:
822:
1206:
1177:
1003:
916:
846:
783:
528:
British expedition that did not publish a book afterwards.
481:
305:
and then travelled west towards Everest on a route through
1097:
1095:
688:
380:
passport and by the remit of the expedition. They reached
1080:
1068:
1044:
979:
955:
873:
819:
795:
474:
Returning to Rongbuk, they trekked across country to the
551:
The expedition was to have an unlikely influence on the
86:. After exceptionally rancorous arguments involving the
1092:
807:
212:
led a lightweight trekking expedition to the region of
1032:
943:
904:
861:
609:
The monsoon normally starts in late May to late June.
600:
The 1933 and 1936 expeditions each cost over £10,000.
187:
1194:
1141:
892:
771:
712:
538:
1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition
80:
1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition
1020:
991:
967:
724:
700:
82:was planned at short notice as a preliminary to an
1424:"Survey on the Mount Everest Reconnaissance, 1935"
618:Dan Bryant's full name was Leslie Vickery Bryant.
218:first people to get into the Nanda Devi Sanctuary
163:When, completely unexpectedly in early 1935, the
113:was identified as a possible line of approach if
2136:
636:Lingtrennup is the peak called "Island Peak" by
591:Two climbers, three Sherpas and a dozen porters.
265:to determine an efficient diet producing 4000
84:attempt on the summit of Mount Everest in 1936
1485:
16:Mountaineering expedition led by Eric Shipton
1453:. Royal Geographical Society. Archived from
502:and Mallory reported on looking down on the
132:The British had been sending expeditions to
1284:(1 ed.). New York: Longman & Green
1277:
1062:
396:Sketch map of region north of Mount Everest
236:
74:Precipitated by unexpected permission from
1492:
1478:
1112:
1110:
518:
285:The team members reached India and met at
1403:Shipton, Eric (1999). Perrin, Jim (ed.).
555:, the first time the summit was reached.
62:Learn how and when to remove this message
1348:
1334:"The Mount Everest Reconnaissance, 1935"
1318:"The Mount Everest Reconnaissance, 1935"
1212:
1188:
1171:
1159:
1101:
1014:
937:
855:
813:
789:
694:
682:
482:Sighting the Western Cwm and Solu Khumbu
391:
1689:1950–52 British–Swiss–US reconnaissance
1370:"Everest 1935: the Forgotten Adventure"
1315:
1107:
997:
742:
2137:
1754:Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition
1749:Earth Day 20 International Peace Climb
1447:"Mount Everest Expedition 1935 Images"
1407:. Baton Wicks and Mountaineers Books.
1367:
1296:
1281:Mount Everest the Reconnaissance, 1921
1258:
1224:
1218:
1200:
1147:
1086:
1074:
1050:
1038:
1026:
985:
973:
961:
949:
910:
898:
886:
867:
840:
828:
801:
777:
730:
718:
706:
534:Swiss expedition in the autumn of 1952
1473:
1237:from the original on 30 November 2014
1129:from the original on 20 February 2015
576:was invited back to Everest in 1953.
553:1953 British Mount Everest expedition
561:1952 Swiss Mount Everest expeditions
18:
2155:Expeditions from the United Kingdom
1920:Expedition Everest (roller coaster)
1773:Francys Arsentiev (Sleeping Beauty)
1116:
494:had reached an unnamed col between
94:was appointed leader following his
13:
1664:1933 British aerial reconnaissance
1396:
220:, which they did by ascending the
188:Shipton's and Tilman's involvement
34:tone or style may not reflect the
14:
2181:
1499:
1225:Horell, Mark (5 September 2012).
736:
297:. The party headed north through
289:on 21 May 1935. With the help of
1744:2007 Altitude Everest expedition
1625:
44:guide to writing better articles
23:
1734:1996 Indo-Tibetan Border Police
652:
643:
630:
621:
612:
603:
594:
433:
2170:Tibet–United Kingdom relations
1933:The Man Who Skied Down Everest
1252:
585:
96:successful trekking expedition
1:
1724:1976 British–Nepalese SW Face
1263:(1st ed.). Tony Astill.
665:
127:
2119:List of Mount Everest guides
670:
387:
122:1951 southern reconnaissance
7:
1658:Affair of the Dancing Lamas
1644:1921 British reconnaissance
1278:Howard-Bury, C. K. (1922).
569:1951 Everest reconnaissance
216:and in so doing became the
144:, a joint committee of the
10:
2186:
2150:1935 in the United Kingdom
175:(who had been on both the
146:Royal Geographical Society
2145:Mount Everest expeditions
2109:
2086:
2050:
1982:
1909:Everest: Beyond the Limit
1837:
1824:Joint Himalayan Committee
1816:
1762:
1634:
1623:
1507:
1422:Spender, Michael (1937).
1231:Footsteps on the Mountain
404:to reach the foot of the
102:region in India in 1934.
1729:1979 Yugoslav West Ridge
1368:Warren, Charles (1995).
843:, pp. 243–246, 252.
685:, pp. 161, 180–187.
579:
237:Expedition preliminaries
1959:The Conquest of Everest
1829:Mount Everest Committee
1349:Unsworth, Walt (1981).
519:Achievements and legacy
142:Mount Everest Committee
88:Mount Everest Committee
2101:20th-century summiters
1353:. London: Allen Lane.
1332:Shipton, Eric (1979).
1316:Shipton, Eric (1936).
1301:. London: Hutchinson.
458:. Looking down to the
397:
203:had travelled back to
1259:Astill, Tony (2005).
659:5 May 1938.
454:and its outliers and
395:
2051:Mount Everest massif
1939:Mount Everest webcam
1719:1975 British SW Face
1297:Perrin, Jim (2013).
1174:, pp. 207, 217.
1162:, pp. 185, 207.
792:, pp. 163, 210.
745:Geographical Journal
402:East Rongbuk Glacier
2096:Times to the summit
1871:The Epic of Everest
1457:on 20 February 2015
1451:RGS Picture Library
1215:, pp. 269–270.
1191:, pp. 201–202.
1089:, pp. 252–254.
1077:, pp. 249–254.
1065:, pp. 214–215.
1053:, pp. 271–333.
1017:, pp. 199–201.
988:, pp. 256–257.
940:, pp. 197–199.
889:, pp. 247–254.
858:, pp. 193–195.
831:, pp. 243–246.
804:, pp. 242–244.
697:, pp. 187–191.
363:28.0847°N 87.6067°E
359: /
332:28.2050°N 87.6082°E
328: /
243:1921 reconnaissance
138:1921 reconnaissance
1973:Wings Over Everest
1896:(Indian TV series)
1299:Shipton and Tilman
1063:Howard-Bury (1922)
964:, p. 167–168.
398:
2132:
2131:
1966:The Wildest Dream
1798:Hannelore Schmatz
1543:Kangshung Glacier
1428:Himalayan Journal
1338:Himalayan Journal
1322:Himalayan Journal
415:Fortnum and Mason
382:Rongbuk Monastery
344:) and Ama Drime (
72:
71:
64:
38:used on Knowledge
36:encyclopedic tone
2177:
1629:
1609:Green Boots cave
1532:Hornbein Couloir
1494:
1487:
1480:
1471:
1470:
1466:
1464:
1462:
1442:
1440:
1438:
1418:
1392:
1390:
1388:
1374:
1364:
1345:
1329:
1312:
1293:
1291:
1289:
1274:
1247:
1246:
1244:
1242:
1222:
1216:
1210:
1204:
1198:
1192:
1186:
1175:
1169:
1163:
1157:
1151:
1145:
1139:
1138:
1136:
1134:
1117:Steward, Peter.
1114:
1105:
1099:
1090:
1084:
1078:
1072:
1066:
1060:
1054:
1048:
1042:
1036:
1030:
1024:
1018:
1012:
1001:
995:
989:
983:
977:
971:
965:
959:
953:
947:
941:
935:
914:
908:
902:
896:
890:
884:
871:
865:
859:
853:
844:
838:
832:
826:
817:
811:
805:
799:
793:
787:
781:
775:
769:
768:
740:
734:
728:
722:
716:
710:
704:
698:
692:
686:
680:
660:
656:
650:
647:
641:
634:
628:
625:
619:
616:
610:
607:
601:
598:
592:
589:
526:Second World War
444:Kellas Rock Peak
374:
373:
371:
370:
369:
368:28.0847; 87.6067
364:
360:
357:
356:
355:
352:
343:
342:
340:
339:
338:
337:28.2050; 87.6082
333:
329:
326:
325:
324:
321:
279:ferrous sulphate
263:Lister Institute
67:
60:
56:
53:
47:
46:for suggestions.
42:See Knowledge's
27:
26:
19:
2185:
2184:
2180:
2179:
2178:
2176:
2175:
2174:
2135:
2134:
2133:
2128:
2111:Mountain guides
2105:
2082:
2046:
2027:2015 avalanches
1978:
1848:Beyond the Edge
1833:
1812:
1758:
1739:2006 Philippine
1630:
1621:
1598:Three Pinnacles
1583:Rongbuk Glacier
1509:
1503:
1498:
1460:
1458:
1445:
1436:
1434:
1421:
1415:
1402:
1399:
1397:Further reading
1386:
1384:
1372:
1361:
1331:
1309:
1287:
1285:
1271:
1255:
1250:
1240:
1238:
1223:
1219:
1213:Unsworth (1981)
1211:
1207:
1199:
1195:
1189:Unsworth (1981)
1187:
1178:
1172:Unsworth (1981)
1170:
1166:
1160:Unsworth (1981)
1158:
1154:
1146:
1142:
1132:
1130:
1125:. UK Climbing.
1115:
1108:
1102:Unsworth (1981)
1100:
1093:
1085:
1081:
1073:
1069:
1061:
1057:
1049:
1045:
1037:
1033:
1025:
1021:
1015:Unsworth (1981)
1013:
1004:
996:
992:
984:
980:
972:
968:
960:
956:
948:
944:
938:Unsworth (1981)
936:
917:
909:
905:
897:
893:
885:
874:
866:
862:
856:Unsworth (1981)
854:
847:
839:
835:
827:
820:
814:Unsworth (1981)
812:
808:
800:
796:
790:Unsworth (1981)
788:
784:
776:
772:
757:10.2307/1785589
741:
737:
729:
725:
717:
713:
705:
701:
695:Unsworth (1981)
693:
689:
683:Unsworth (1981)
681:
677:
673:
668:
663:
657:
653:
648:
644:
635:
631:
626:
622:
617:
613:
608:
604:
599:
595:
590:
586:
582:
521:
484:
436:
390:
377:Gyankar Nangpar
367:
365:
361:
358:
353:
350:
348:
346:
345:
336:
334:
330:
327:
322:
319:
317:
315:
314:
255:Michael Spender
239:
190:
177:1922 expedition
154:1933 expedition
130:
68:
57:
51:
48:
41:
32:This article's
28:
24:
17:
12:
11:
5:
2183:
2173:
2172:
2167:
2165:Tenzing Norgay
2162:
2157:
2152:
2147:
2130:
2129:
2127:
2126:
2121:
2115:
2113:
2107:
2106:
2104:
2103:
2098:
2092:
2090:
2084:
2083:
2081:
2080:
2075:
2070:
2065:
2060:
2054:
2052:
2048:
2047:
2045:
2044:
2039:
2034:
2029:
2024:
2022:2014 avalanche
2019:
2014:
2009:
2004:
1999:
1997:1974 avalanche
1994:
1988:
1986:
1980:
1979:
1977:
1976:
1969:
1962:
1955:
1948:
1945:Paths of Glory
1941:
1936:
1929:
1922:
1917:
1912:
1905:
1898:
1890:
1882:
1874:
1867:
1859:
1851:
1843:
1841:
1835:
1834:
1832:
1831:
1826:
1820:
1818:
1814:
1813:
1811:
1810:
1805:
1800:
1795:
1793:George Mallory
1790:
1785:
1780:
1778:Peter Boardman
1775:
1769:
1767:
1760:
1759:
1757:
1756:
1751:
1746:
1741:
1736:
1731:
1726:
1721:
1716:
1711:
1706:
1701:
1696:
1691:
1686:
1681:
1676:
1671:
1666:
1661:
1651:
1646:
1640:
1638:
1632:
1631:
1624:
1622:
1620:
1619:
1614:
1613:
1612:
1600:
1595:
1590:
1585:
1580:
1578:Norton Couloir
1575:
1570:
1565:
1560:
1555:
1553:Khumbu Icefall
1550:
1548:Khumbu Glacier
1545:
1540:
1537:Kangshung Face
1534:
1529:
1524:
1519:
1513:
1511:
1505:
1504:
1497:
1496:
1489:
1482:
1474:
1468:
1467:
1443:
1419:
1413:
1398:
1395:
1394:
1393:
1377:Alpine Journal
1365:
1359:
1346:
1313:
1307:
1294:
1275:
1270:978-0954920104
1269:
1254:
1251:
1249:
1248:
1217:
1205:
1193:
1176:
1164:
1152:
1140:
1106:
1104:, p. 201.
1091:
1079:
1067:
1055:
1043:
1041:, p. 259.
1031:
1019:
1002:
998:Shipton (1936)
990:
978:
966:
954:
952:, p. 255.
942:
915:
913:, p. 134.
903:
891:
872:
870:, p. 250.
860:
845:
833:
818:
816:, p. 207.
806:
794:
782:
780:, p. 241.
770:
751:(4): 305–314.
735:
723:
721:, p. 185.
711:
699:
687:
674:
672:
669:
667:
664:
662:
661:
651:
642:
629:
620:
611:
602:
593:
583:
581:
578:
557:Tenzing Norgay
520:
517:
508:Khumbu Icefall
488:George Mallory
483:
480:
435:
432:
411:Maurice Wilson
389:
386:
295:Tenzing Norgay
238:
235:
201:Lawrence Wager
189:
186:
173:Colin Crawford
158:Hugh Ruttledge
129:
126:
70:
69:
31:
29:
22:
15:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
2182:
2171:
2168:
2166:
2163:
2161:
2160:1935 in Tibet
2158:
2156:
2153:
2151:
2148:
2146:
2143:
2142:
2140:
2125:
2122:
2120:
2117:
2116:
2114:
2112:
2108:
2102:
2099:
2097:
2094:
2093:
2091:
2089:
2085:
2079:
2076:
2074:
2071:
2069:
2066:
2064:
2061:
2059:
2056:
2055:
2053:
2049:
2043:
2040:
2038:
2035:
2033:
2030:
2028:
2025:
2023:
2020:
2018:
2015:
2013:
2010:
2008:
2007:1996 disaster
2005:
2003:
2002:1988 disaster
2000:
1998:
1995:
1993:
1992:1970 disaster
1990:
1989:
1987:
1985:
1981:
1975:
1974:
1970:
1968:
1967:
1963:
1961:
1960:
1956:
1954:
1953:
1949:
1947:
1946:
1942:
1940:
1937:
1935:
1934:
1930:
1928:
1927:
1926:Into Thin Air
1923:
1921:
1918:
1916:
1913:
1911:
1910:
1906:
1904:
1903:
1899:
1897:
1895:
1891:
1889:
1887:
1883:
1881:
1879:
1875:
1873:
1872:
1868:
1866:
1864:
1860:
1858:
1856:
1852:
1850:
1849:
1845:
1844:
1842:
1840:
1836:
1830:
1827:
1825:
1822:
1821:
1819:
1815:
1809:
1806:
1804:
1801:
1799:
1796:
1794:
1791:
1789:
1786:
1784:
1781:
1779:
1776:
1774:
1771:
1770:
1768:
1766:
1761:
1755:
1752:
1750:
1747:
1745:
1742:
1740:
1737:
1735:
1732:
1730:
1727:
1725:
1722:
1720:
1717:
1715:
1714:1963 American
1712:
1710:
1707:
1705:
1702:
1700:
1697:
1695:
1692:
1690:
1687:
1685:
1682:
1680:
1677:
1675:
1672:
1670:
1667:
1665:
1662:
1659:
1655:
1652:
1650:
1647:
1645:
1642:
1641:
1639:
1637:
1633:
1628:
1618:
1615:
1610:
1606:
1605:
1604:
1601:
1599:
1596:
1594:
1591:
1589:
1586:
1584:
1581:
1579:
1576:
1574:
1571:
1569:
1566:
1564:
1561:
1559:
1556:
1554:
1551:
1549:
1546:
1544:
1541:
1538:
1535:
1533:
1530:
1528:
1525:
1523:
1520:
1518:
1515:
1514:
1512:
1510:and landmarks
1506:
1502:
1501:Mount Everest
1495:
1490:
1488:
1483:
1481:
1476:
1475:
1472:
1456:
1452:
1448:
1444:
1433:
1429:
1425:
1420:
1416:
1414:9780898865394
1410:
1406:
1401:
1400:
1382:
1378:
1371:
1366:
1362:
1356:
1352:
1347:
1343:
1339:
1335:
1330:reprinted in
1327:
1323:
1319:
1314:
1310:
1308:9780091795467
1304:
1300:
1295:
1283:
1282:
1276:
1272:
1266:
1262:
1257:
1256:
1236:
1232:
1228:
1221:
1214:
1209:
1203:, p. 28.
1202:
1201:Astill (2005)
1197:
1190:
1185:
1183:
1181:
1173:
1168:
1161:
1156:
1150:, p. 14.
1149:
1148:Warren (1995)
1144:
1128:
1124:
1120:
1113:
1111:
1103:
1098:
1096:
1088:
1087:Astill (2005)
1083:
1076:
1075:Astill (2005)
1071:
1064:
1059:
1052:
1051:Astill (2005)
1047:
1040:
1039:Astill (2005)
1035:
1028:
1027:Astill (2005)
1023:
1016:
1011:
1009:
1007:
999:
994:
987:
986:Perrin (2013)
982:
975:
974:Warren (1995)
970:
963:
962:Astill (2005)
958:
951:
950:Perrin (2013)
946:
939:
934:
932:
930:
928:
926:
924:
922:
920:
912:
911:Astill (2005)
907:
901:, p. 86.
900:
899:Astill (2005)
895:
888:
887:Perrin (2013)
883:
881:
879:
877:
869:
868:Perrin (2013)
864:
857:
852:
850:
842:
841:Perrin (2013)
837:
830:
829:Perrin (2013)
825:
823:
815:
810:
803:
802:Perrin (2013)
798:
791:
786:
779:
778:Perrin (2013)
774:
766:
762:
758:
754:
750:
746:
739:
733:, p. 14.
732:
731:Perrin (2013)
727:
720:
719:Perrin (2013)
715:
709:, p. 74.
708:
707:Perrin (2013)
703:
696:
691:
684:
679:
675:
655:
646:
639:
633:
624:
615:
606:
597:
588:
584:
577:
575:
570:
566:
562:
558:
554:
549:
547:
543:
539:
535:
529:
527:
516:
514:
509:
505:
501:
497:
493:
489:
479:
477:
476:Kharta valley
472:
470:
465:
461:
457:
453:
447:
445:
441:
431:
429:
428:Kharta valley
425:
419:
416:
412:
407:
403:
394:
385:
383:
378:
372:
341:
312:
308:
304:
300:
296:
292:
288:
283:
280:
276:
275:ascorbic acid
272:
271:cod liver oil
268:
264:
259:
256:
252:
248:
247:Edmund Wigram
244:
234:
231:
230:Tom Longstaff
226:
223:
219:
215:
211:
206:
202:
198:
194:
185:
183:
178:
174:
170:
166:
161:
159:
155:
151:
147:
143:
139:
135:
134:Mount Everest
125:
123:
118:
116:
112:
108:
103:
101:
97:
93:
89:
85:
81:
77:
66:
63:
55:
52:February 2022
45:
39:
37:
30:
21:
20:
1971:
1964:
1957:
1951:
1944:
1931:
1924:
1907:
1900:
1893:
1885:
1877:
1869:
1862:
1854:
1846:
1788:Sandy Irvine
1709:1960 Chinese
1704:1953 British
1694:1951 British
1684:1938 British
1679:1936 British
1674:1935 British
1673:
1669:1933 British
1654:1924 British
1649:1922 British
1593:South Summit
1527:Hillary Step
1459:. Retrieved
1455:the original
1450:
1435:. Retrieved
1431:
1427:
1404:
1385:. Retrieved
1380:
1376:
1350:
1341:
1337:
1325:
1321:
1298:
1286:. Retrieved
1280:
1260:
1239:. Retrieved
1230:
1220:
1208:
1196:
1167:
1155:
1143:
1131:. Retrieved
1122:
1082:
1070:
1058:
1046:
1034:
1029:, p. 1.
1022:
993:
981:
976:, p. 9.
969:
957:
945:
906:
894:
863:
836:
809:
797:
785:
773:
748:
744:
738:
726:
714:
702:
690:
678:
654:
645:
632:
623:
614:
605:
596:
587:
550:
530:
522:
485:
473:
448:
437:
434:Peak bagging
420:
399:
284:
260:
240:
227:
195:had been to
193:Eric Shipton
191:
162:
131:
119:
104:
92:Eric Shipton
79:
73:
58:
49:
33:
1902:Everest '82
1888:(2015 film)
1880:(1998 film)
1865:(2007 film)
1803:David Sharp
1783:Green Boots
1636:Expeditions
1617:Western Cwm
1603:Three Steps
1539:(East Face)
1522:Geneva Spur
1461:20 February
1387:20 February
1253:Works cited
1241:20 February
1133:20 February
513:Solu Khumbu
504:Western Cwm
492:Guy Bullock
460:Western Cwm
456:Lingtrennup
384:on 4 July.
366: /
335: /
273:along with
222:Rishi Ganga
210:Bill Tilman
152:. With the
150:Alpine Club
111:Western CWM
90:in London,
2139:Categories
1915:EverestMax
1817:Committees
1808:Joe Tasker
1765:fatalities
1699:1952 Swiss
1573:North Face
1508:Topography
1360:0713911085
666:References
574:Ed Hillary
565:Dan Bryant
542:Noel Odell
536:(see also
354:87°36′24″E
351:28°05′05″N
323:87°36′30″E
320:28°12′18″N
291:Karma Paul
287:Darjeeling
251:Dan Bryant
214:Nanda Devi
136:since the
128:Background
100:Nanda Devi
2058:Khumbutse
1863:The Climb
1855:The Climb
1588:South Col
1568:North Col
1558:Lhakpa La
1517:Base Camp
671:Citations
548:in 1950.
546:Annapurna
440:Khartaphu
424:Lhakpa La
406:North Col
388:North Col
311:Nyonno Ri
2068:Lingtren
1839:In media
1763:Notable
1437:19 March
1235:Archived
1127:Archived
1123:UKC Gear
640:in 1921.
500:Lingtren
486:In 1921
469:Changtse
452:Lingtren
267:Calories
197:Himalaya
148:and the
2124:Sherpas
2088:Records
1894:Everest
1886:Everest
1878:Everest
1351:Everest
1288:1 March
765:1785589
638:Mallory
169:monsoon
165:Tibetan
107:monsoon
98:to the
2078:Pumori
2073:Nuptse
2063:Lhotse
1857:(book)
1563:Lho La
1411:
1383:: 1–14
1357:
1305:
1267:
763:
572:1951,
496:Pumori
464:Lho La
299:Sikkim
205:Sikkim
182:Strutt
78:, the
1984:Years
1373:(PDF)
761:JSTOR
580:Notes
303:Tibet
301:into
115:Nepal
76:Tibet
2042:2018
2037:2017
2032:2016
2017:2013
2012:2012
1952:Peak
1463:2015
1439:2015
1409:ISBN
1389:2015
1381:1995
1355:ISBN
1303:ISBN
1290:2015
1265:ISBN
1243:2015
1135:2015
498:and
490:and
277:and
753:doi
307:Sar
2141::
1449:.
1430:.
1426:.
1379:.
1375:.
1342:35
1340:.
1336:.
1324:.
1320:.
1233:.
1229:.
1179:^
1121:.
1109:^
1094:^
1005:^
918:^
875:^
848:^
821:^
759:.
749:85
747:.
430:.
124:.
1660:)
1656:(
1611:"
1607:"
1493:e
1486:t
1479:v
1465:.
1441:.
1432:9
1417:.
1391:.
1363:.
1344:.
1328:.
1326:8
1311:.
1292:.
1273:.
1245:.
1137:.
1000:.
767:.
755::
313:(
65:)
59:(
54:)
50:(
40:.
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.