22:
150:
In May 1561 Elizabeth gave clothes to a "Tartarian woman", possibly Aura/Ippolyta or a companion. These included two loose gowns of black taffeta, a French kirtle of russet satin, and another French kirtle of black satin. The clothes had been made for the queen and discarded as gifts, a regular
158:
in a second document with prices. The cost of the clothes may be compared with the annual fees paid to aristocratic courtiers. The inclusion of imported materials connects her to the global exchange of luxury goods, and is a reminder of
Jenkinson's role in the Persian silk trade. The garments
134:
for Aura
Soltana, possibly indicating she was still growing. These included leather shoes, some made of Spanish leather, leather "pantobles", and velvet shoes and pantobles. As Elizabeth's own shoes recorded before this time were all made of velvet, the costume historian
107:
She was christened on 13 July 1561 and the Queen gave her a gold chain and a gold tablet or locket. The gifts were made to "Ipolitan the
Tartarian". There is no other evidence that Elizabeth was her godmother. In 1564 she was given livery clothes, listed in detail.
313:
Early
Voyages to Russia and Persia: The Principal Navigations, Voyages, Traffiques & Discoveries of the English Nation: Made by Sea Or Over-land to the Remote and Farthest Distant Quarters of the Earth at Any Time Within the Compasse of These 1600
326:
Bernadette Andrea, 'The Tartar Girl, The
Persian Princess, And Early Modern English Women's Authorship From Elizabeth I To Mary Wroth', Anke Gilleir, Alicia Montoya, Suzan van Dijk,
507:
and, 'Queen
Elizabeth's old cloathes distributed', 76:1 (June 1806), p. 518. This record has been printed many times, the date printed is May, 3rd year of Elizabeth's reign.
111:
A pewter metal doll was bought for her to play with in 1562, and she was given gifts of lavish clothing, and some of the queen's old clothes. The doll, provided by a
21:
270:
With only a fleeting reference in the accounts of
English men who traveled through Russia,... how might we trace the resonance of this Tartar girl...
142:
One of the latest records of Aura or
Ipolyta at court was an order for the skinner Adam Bland to provide rabbit fur to her damask cloak in 1569.
454:
Sarah A. Bendall, 'Whalebone and the
Wardrobe of Elizabeth I: Whaling and the Making of Aristocratic Fashions in Sixteenth Century Europe',
907:
100:
and other scholars as the same person. From these sources, her identity seems to be formed and connected with international trade and the
48:
1281:
825:
1092:
559:
596:
263:
1329:
328:
Women
Writing Back / Writing Women Back: Transnational Perspectives from the Late Middle Ages to the Dawn of the Modern Era
255:
Women Writing Back / Writing Women Back: Transnational Perspectives from the Late Middle Ages to the Dawn of the Modern Era
1334:
1324:
1178:
1084:
1069:
560:
Mathilde Alazraki, "Ipolita the Tartarian:" A Living Diplomatic Gift for Elizabeth I: Nedieval and Early Modern Orients
120:
81:
In September 1559, Jenkinson wrote a letter in Moscow to a trading colleague thanking him for "my wench Aura Soltana".
1059:
500:
414:
845:
766:
959:
1040:
352:
Ladan Niayesh, 'Patterning the Tatar Girl in George Puttenham's The Art of English Poesie', Jyotsna G. Singh,
297:
Ladan Niayesh, 'Patterning the Tatar Girl in George Puttenham's The Art of English Poesie', Jyotsna G. Singh,
1339:
1034:
1028:
1022:
1016:
1010:
1004:
998:
992:
986:
565:
Gift roll of Queen Elizabeth including her gift at the baptism of Ipolitan, British Library Harley V 18 f.4r
1344:
1108:
850:
379:
311:
127:
pins were bought for her, possibly suggesting her costume at court was much the same as other young women.
855:
1221:
937:
893:
820:
89:
whiche he gave to the Queen afterward". Jenkinson wrote that the "price of a Nagayan Tartar slave" in
564:
1124:
1051:
760:
589:
159:
specified and the fabrics are not unusual among the records of Elizabeth's wardrobe. The items were:
154:
The clothes given to "Ipolita the Tartarian" in June 1564 were specified in a warrant and most were
942:
865:
815:
686:
139:
suggested that the queen copied a fashion introduced by Ippolyta and bought Spanish leather shoes.
96:
Subsequent records of the Elizabethan court mention "Ipolitan the Tartarian", who is identified by
531:
The Lives of Girls and Women from the Islamic World in Early Modern British Literature and Culture
1354:
393:
Elaine Kruse, 'A Network of Honour and Obligation: Elizabeth of Godmother', Anna Riehl Bertolet,
339:
Elaine Kruse, 'A Network of Honour and Obligation: Elizabeth as Godmother', Anna Riehl Bertolet,
354:
A Companion to the Global Renaissance: Literature and Culture in the Era of Expansion, 1500-1700
299:
A Companion to the Global Renaissance: Literature and Culture in the Era of Expansion, 1500-1700
1349:
840:
830:
618:
75:
1151:
754:
728:
723:
657:
582:
8:
835:
772:
738:
718:
708:
425:, 'Ippolyta the Tartarian', Carole Levin, Anna Riehl Bertolet, Jo Eldridge Carney, eds,
284:, 'Ippolyta the Tartarian', Carole Levin, Anna Riehl Bertolet, Jo Eldridge Carney, eds,
1143:
873:
680:
1295:
1248:
1213:
784:
651:
422:
281:
259:
163:
A gown and a kirtle, of damask edged with velvet, lined with cotton fustian and linen
97:
71:
25:
Portrait of an unknown woman in masque costume, associated with Aura Soltana, 1590s,
569:
1186:
1116:
901:
674:
614:
459:
212:
A "clout" of Spanish needles. The "clout" was a cloth to which needles were pinned.
26:
1170:
913:
807:
733:
253:
193:
101:
82:
1302:
883:
796:
790:
713:
74:
brought a young woman or child from Russia to England, who joined the court of
1318:
1276:
1229:
965:
878:
463:
1271:
778:
438:
406:
136:
131:
639:
605:
179:
124:
59:
365:
Elaine Kruse, "A Network of Honor and Obligation", Anna Riehl Bertolet,
1100:
633:
116:
645:
170:
112:
90:
199:
Half a pound of "systers" thread for making the smocks and kerchiefs
1194:
570:
Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Uploaded: Costume record transcriptions
203:
189:
183:
86:
55:
574:
78:. She became known as "Ippolyta" or "Ipolitan the Tartarian."
62:
after arriving from Russia to England, apparently as a slave.
252:
Gilleir, Anke; Montoya, Alicia A.; Dijk, Suzanna van (2010).
188:
6 canvas smocks with Holland linen sleeves; 6 kerchiefs; 6
427:
A Biographical Encyclopedia of Early Modern Englishwomen
286:
A Biographical Encyclopedia of Early Modern Englishwomen
166:
A gown and kirtle of grosgrain chamlet edged with velvet
119:
suggesting that Ashley (who was probably acting as the
104:, with the exchange of eastern silks and Russian furs.
209:
5 ounces of Venice gold thread for other embroidery
251:
93:was "a loaf of bread worth sixpence in England".
206:silk thread to embroider the partlets and sleeves
1316:
518:Renaissance Clothing and the Materials of Memory
501:'Copy of an Original Order of Queen Elizabeth',
415:'Copy of an Original Order of Queen Elizabeth',
546:(Maney, 1988), p. 107 spelling modernised here.
221:2 cauls of gold, silver, and silk, costing £4.
590:
503:Gentleman's Magazine and Historical Chronicle
417:Gentleman's Magazine and Historical Chronicle
516:Ann Rosalind Jones & Peter Stallybrass,
145:
597:
583:
1282:Queen Elizabeth Grammar School, Wakefield
1094:The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex
20:
16:Tartar woman at the court of Elizabeth I
1317:
578:
395:Queens Matter in Early Modern Studies
367:Queens Matter in Early Modern Studies
341:Queens Matter in Early Modern Studies
175:A petticoat of red cloth or grosgrain
310:E. Delmar Morgan & C. H. Coote,
130:Several pairs of shoes were made by
544:Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
489:Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
476:Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
443:Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
411:Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd
397:(Palgrave Macmillan, 2018), p. 190.
369:(Palgrave Macmillan, 2018), p. 190.
65:
13:
240:The Sixteenth Century in 100 Women
196:; 4 pairs of Holland linen sleeves
85:identified this woman as "a young
14:
1366:
1060:Secret correspondence of James VI
553:
1180:Elisabetta, regina d'Inghilterra
1086:Les Amours de la reine Élisabeth
242:(Pen & Sword, 2023), p. 179.
604:
536:
523:
510:
494:
481:
468:
448:
432:
400:
387:
383:, vol. 1 (London, 1823), p. 129
372:
115:, Alice Montague, was given to
359:
346:
333:
320:
304:
291:
275:
245:
232:
1:
429:(Routledge, 2017), pp. 512-3.
381:Progresses of Queen Elizabeth
343:(Palgrave Macmillan), p. 190.
288:(Routledge, 2017), pp. 512-3.
225:
169:A gown of cloth; a kirtle of
123:) looked after Aura Soltana.
7:
1330:16th-century Russian people
533:(Toronto, 2017), pp. 47-48.
505:, 24 (London, 1754), p. 163
419:, 24 (London, 1754), p. 163
356:(John Wiley, 2021), p. 379.
301:(John Wiley, 2021), p. 378.
10:
1371:
1335:16th-century English women
1325:16th-century Russian women
1290:
1264:
1241:
1206:
1163:
1136:
1126:Elizabeth: The Golden Age
1077:
1068:
1050:
979:
952:
930:
923:
892:
864:
806:
747:
701:
667:
626:
612:
520:(Cambridge, 2000), p. 18.
478:(Maney, 1988), pp. 212-4.
445:(Maney, 1988), pp. 218-9.
943:The Doubt of Future Foes
683:(Lady of the Bedchamber)
146:Costume in 1561 and 1564
938:On Monsieur's Departure
908:Plimpton Sieve Portrait
464:10.4000/apparences.3653
413:(Leeds, 1988), p. 107:
491:(Maney, 1988), p. 107.
330:(Brill, 2010), p. 264.
258:. BRILL. p. 265.
151:practice of the time.
58:woman at the court of
37:Ipolitan the Tartarian
29:
24:
1340:Court of Elizabeth I
767:Religious Settlement
755:Third Succession Act
724:Hampton Court Palace
658:Mary, Queen of Scots
1345:16th-century slaves
1223:Elizabeth the Queen
773:Regnans in Excelsis
739:Queen Elizabeth Oak
719:Palace of Whitehall
677:(Lady of the Robes)
529:Bernadette Andrea,
215:A scarf of sarcenet
121:Mother of the Maids
1153:The Virgin's Lover
874:Bacton Altar Cloth
681:Elizabeth Stafford
30:
1312:
1311:
1260:
1259:
1250:The Faerie Queene
975:
974:
785:Throckmorton Plot
729:St James's Palace
423:Bernadette Andrea
282:Bernadette Andrea
265:978-90-04-18463-3
98:Bernadette Andrea
72:Anthony Jenkinson
1362:
1188:Roberto Devereux
1110:The Virgin Queen
1075:
1074:
928:
927:
902:Pelican Portrait
709:Greenwich Palace
615:Queen of England
599:
592:
585:
576:
575:
547:
540:
534:
527:
521:
514:
508:
498:
492:
485:
479:
472:
466:
452:
446:
436:
430:
404:
398:
391:
385:
376:
370:
363:
357:
350:
344:
337:
331:
324:
318:
316:, vol. 1, p. 109
308:
302:
295:
289:
279:
273:
272:
249:
243:
236:
66:Archival records
53:
50:
35:, also known as
1370:
1369:
1365:
1364:
1363:
1361:
1360:
1359:
1315:
1314:
1313:
1308:
1286:
1256:
1237:
1202:
1172:The Fairy-Queen
1159:
1132:
1064:
1046:
971:
948:
919:
914:Armada Portrait
888:
860:
802:
743:
734:Richmond Palace
697:
663:
622:
608:
603:
556:
551:
550:
541:
537:
528:
524:
515:
511:
499:
495:
486:
482:
473:
469:
453:
449:
437:
433:
405:
401:
392:
388:
377:
373:
364:
360:
351:
347:
338:
334:
325:
321:
309:
305:
296:
292:
280:
276:
266:
250:
246:
237:
233:
228:
192:with bands and
148:
102:Muscovy Company
83:Richard Hakluyt
76:Queen Elizabeth
68:
51:
17:
12:
11:
5:
1368:
1358:
1357:
1355:English slaves
1352:
1347:
1342:
1337:
1332:
1327:
1310:
1309:
1307:
1306:
1299:
1291:
1288:
1287:
1285:
1284:
1279:
1274:
1268:
1266:
1262:
1261:
1258:
1257:
1255:
1254:
1245:
1243:
1239:
1238:
1236:
1235:
1227:
1219:
1210:
1208:
1204:
1203:
1201:
1200:
1192:
1184:
1176:
1167:
1165:
1161:
1160:
1158:
1157:
1149:
1140:
1138:
1134:
1133:
1131:
1130:
1122:
1114:
1106:
1098:
1090:
1081:
1079:
1072:
1066:
1065:
1063:
1062:
1056:
1054:
1048:
1047:
1045:
1044:
1038:
1032:
1026:
1020:
1014:
1008:
1002:
996:
990:
983:
981:
977:
976:
973:
972:
970:
969:
963:
960:Tilbury Speech
956:
954:
950:
949:
947:
946:
940:
934:
932:
925:
921:
920:
918:
917:
911:
905:
898:
896:
890:
889:
887:
886:
884:Royal Gold Cup
881:
876:
870:
868:
862:
861:
859:
858:
853:
848:
843:
838:
833:
828:
823:
818:
812:
810:
804:
803:
801:
800:
797:Spanish Armada
794:
791:Babington Plot
788:
782:
776:
770:
764:
758:
751:
749:
745:
744:
742:
741:
736:
731:
726:
721:
716:
714:Hatfield House
711:
705:
703:
699:
698:
696:
695:
690:
684:
678:
671:
669:
665:
664:
662:
661:
655:
649:
648:(half-brother)
643:
637:
630:
628:
624:
623:
613:
610:
609:
602:
601:
594:
587:
579:
573:
572:
567:
562:
555:
554:External links
552:
549:
548:
542:Janet Arnold,
535:
522:
509:
493:
487:Janet Arnold,
480:
474:Janet Arnold,
467:
447:
431:
399:
386:
378:John Nichols,
371:
358:
345:
332:
319:
303:
290:
274:
264:
244:
230:
229:
227:
224:
223:
222:
219:
216:
213:
210:
207:
200:
197:
186:
176:
173:
167:
164:
147:
144:
132:Garret Johnson
67:
64:
15:
9:
6:
4:
3:
2:
1367:
1356:
1353:
1351:
1350:Russian serfs
1348:
1346:
1343:
1341:
1338:
1336:
1333:
1331:
1328:
1326:
1323:
1322:
1320:
1305:
1304:
1300:
1298:
1297:
1293:
1292:
1289:
1283:
1280:
1278:
1277:Stuart period
1275:
1273:
1270:
1269:
1267:
1263:
1253:
1251:
1247:
1246:
1244:
1240:
1234:
1232:
1231:Elizabeth Rex
1228:
1226:
1224:
1220:
1218:
1216:
1212:
1211:
1209:
1205:
1199:
1197:
1193:
1191:
1189:
1185:
1183:
1181:
1177:
1175:
1173:
1169:
1168:
1166:
1162:
1156:
1154:
1150:
1148:
1146:
1142:
1141:
1139:
1135:
1129:
1127:
1123:
1121:
1119:
1115:
1113:
1111:
1107:
1105:
1103:
1099:
1097:
1095:
1091:
1089:
1087:
1083:
1082:
1080:
1076:
1073:
1071:
1067:
1061:
1058:
1057:
1055:
1053:
1049:
1042:
1039:
1036:
1033:
1030:
1027:
1024:
1021:
1018:
1015:
1012:
1009:
1006:
1003:
1000:
997:
994:
991:
988:
985:
984:
982:
978:
967:
966:Golden Speech
964:
961:
958:
957:
955:
951:
944:
941:
939:
936:
935:
933:
929:
926:
922:
915:
912:
909:
906:
903:
900:
899:
897:
895:
891:
885:
882:
880:
879:Chequers Ring
877:
875:
872:
871:
869:
867:
863:
857:
854:
852:
849:
847:
844:
842:
839:
837:
834:
832:
829:
827:
824:
822:
819:
817:
814:
813:
811:
809:
805:
798:
795:
792:
789:
786:
783:
780:
777:
774:
771:
768:
765:
762:
759:
756:
753:
752:
750:
746:
740:
737:
735:
732:
730:
727:
725:
722:
720:
717:
715:
712:
710:
707:
706:
704:
700:
694:
691:
688:
685:
682:
679:
676:
675:Lady Stafford
673:
672:
670:
666:
659:
656:
654:(half-sister)
653:
650:
647:
644:
641:
638:
635:
632:
631:
629:
625:
620:
616:
611:
607:
600:
595:
593:
588:
586:
581:
580:
577:
571:
568:
566:
563:
561:
558:
557:
545:
539:
532:
526:
519:
513:
506:
504:
497:
490:
484:
477:
471:
465:
461:
458:, 11 (2022).
457:
451:
444:
440:
435:
428:
424:
420:
418:
412:
408:
403:
396:
390:
384:
382:
375:
368:
362:
355:
349:
342:
336:
329:
323:
317:
315:
307:
300:
294:
287:
283:
278:
271:
267:
261:
257:
256:
248:
241:
238:Amy Licence,
235:
231:
220:
217:
214:
211:
208:
205:
201:
198:
195:
191:
187:
185:
181:
177:
174:
172:
168:
165:
162:
161:
160:
157:
152:
143:
140:
138:
133:
128:
126:
122:
118:
114:
109:
105:
103:
99:
94:
92:
88:
84:
79:
77:
73:
63:
61:
57:
46:
42:
38:
34:
28:
23:
19:
1301:
1294:
1272:Tudor period
1249:
1230:
1222:
1214:
1195:
1187:
1179:
1171:
1152:
1144:
1125:
1117:
1109:
1101:
1093:
1085:
816:Architecture
779:Ridolfi Plot
693:Aura Soltana
692:
689:(Apothecary)
543:
538:
530:
525:
517:
512:
502:
496:
488:
483:
475:
470:
456:Apparence(s)
455:
450:
442:
439:Janet Arnold
434:
426:
416:
410:
407:Janet Arnold
402:
394:
389:
380:
374:
366:
361:
353:
348:
340:
335:
327:
322:
312:
306:
298:
293:
285:
277:
269:
254:
247:
239:
234:
218:A velvet hat
202:6 ounces of
156:listed again
155:
153:
149:
141:
137:Janet Arnold
129:
110:
106:
95:
80:
69:
44:
40:
36:
33:Aura Soltana
32:
31:
18:
980:Parliaments
894:Portraiture
687:Hugh Morgan
640:Anne Boleyn
621:(1558–1603)
606:Elizabeth I
180:farthingale
125:Farthingale
70:The sailor
60:Elizabeth I
52: 1569
1319:Categories
1215:Henry VIII
1145:Kenilworth
1102:Young Bess
1070:Depictions
1052:Succession
841:Literature
831:Government
761:Coronation
634:Henry VIII
226:References
117:Kat Ashley
1303:James I →
1118:Elizabeth
866:Inventory
846:Ministers
702:Locations
668:Household
646:Edward VI
171:grosgrain
113:silkwoman
91:Astrakhan
54:), was a
1296:← Mary I
1196:Gloriana
953:Speeches
924:Writings
660:(cousin)
642:(mother)
636:(father)
190:partlets
45:Ippolyta
1265:Related
856:Theatre
836:Leisure
826:Fashion
619:Ireland
204:Granada
184:mockado
41:Ipolita
1252:(1590)
1242:Poetry
1233:(2000)
1225:(1930)
1217:(1613)
1198:(1953)
1190:(1837)
1182:(1815)
1174:(1692)
1164:Operas
1155:(2004)
1147:(1821)
1137:Novels
1128:(2007)
1120:(1998)
1112:(1955)
1104:(1953)
1096:(1939)
1088:(1912)
1043:(1601)
1037:(1597)
1031:(1593)
1025:(1589)
1019:(1586)
1013:(1584)
1007:(1572)
1001:(1571)
995:(1562)
989:(1558)
968:(1601)
962:(1588)
945:(1571)
931:Poetry
916:(1588)
910:(1579)
904:(1575)
799:(1588)
793:(1586)
787:(1583)
781:(1571)
775:(1570)
769:(1559)
763:(1559)
757:(1543)
748:Events
652:Mary I
627:Family
314:Yeeres
262:
87:Tartar
56:Tartar
1207:Plays
851:Music
808:Reign
194:ruffs
1078:Film
1041:10th
617:and
260:ISBN
1035:9th
1029:8th
1023:7th
1017:6th
1011:5th
1005:4th
999:3rd
993:2nd
987:1st
821:Art
460:doi
182:of
49:fl.
43:or
39:or
27:RCT
1321::
441:,
421::
409:,
268:.
178:A
598:e
591:t
584:v
462::
47:(
Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License. Additional terms may apply.
_-_Portrait_of_an_Unknown_Woman_-_RCIN_406024_-_Royal_Collection.jpg)