20:
270:, was in fact a success, and Ude did not return. In retirement he was financially well off, but bored and miserable. A friend asked him why he did not busy himself in his own kitchen, but he replied, "Bah! I have not been into my kitchen once: I hate the sight of my kitchen. I dine on roast mutton dressed by a
307:
The contents of the book varied from edition to edition. In the first (1813), Ude contends in a brief introduction that "The works hitherto published on the Art of
Cookery are unintelligible, and the receipts therein indicated impracticable". He makes it clear from the outset that he is writing about
511:
The ladies of
England are unfavourably disposed to our art; yet I find no difficulty in assigning the cause of it. It is particularly the case with them (and indeed it is so in some measure with our own sex) that they are not introduced to their parents' table till their palates have been completely
138:
Ude's history after he moved to
England is more consistently attested, although precise dates are mostly lacking. Despite the impression conveyed by Favre that a French chef in London was something new, Ude was in fact following a centuries-old tradition of French cooks working for the rich and
181:
in
England. The book was a considerable success and went through fourteen editions over the next three decades, making the author a large amount of money. By the time of his death it was regarded as "the standard work in the science of cookery". Its fame spread beyond kitchens.
285:, whom Ude liked as a man and approved of as a chef. At Soyer's wedding in 1837, Ude was one of the two witnesses. He continued to live in London until his death of fever at his house in Albemarle Street on 10 April 1846 at an age variously reported as 76, 77 and 78. After a
599:
On the title page of the former he describes himself as "Formerly cook to Louis XVI, King of France, and at present cook to the Right Hon. Earl of Sefton", and on that of the latter as "Formerly cook to Louis XVI, King of France, and at present
Steward to the United Service
507:
Although Ude considered that when
English cooking was done well it was unsurpassable, he deplored some aspects of the English attitude to dining. He condemned the unremitting hostility of England's doctors to good eating, and the indifference of its women to haute cuisine:
503:
he observed, "It is very remarkable that in France, where there is but one religion, the sauces are infinitely varied, whilst in
England, where the different sects are innumerable, there is, we may say, but one single sauce". To Ude, sauces were "the soul of cookery".
195:
Between the publication of the third edition of the book, in 1815, and that of the fourth, in 1816, Ude left Sefton's employment. (There is a story that he resigned because a guest added more pepper to his soup.) After leaving Sefton, Ude became steward to the
228:
Mr Ude, of culinary celebrity, is engaged by Mr
Crockford, to superintend the cuisine of his vast establishment, at a salary of twelve hundred pounds a year. Mr Ude is fitting up a house for his own family contiguous to the scene of his official duties, in
252:
gives examples of Ude's famous creations: "an entrée of soft roes of mackerel baked in butter and served with a cream sauce" and "a most delicious sweet made with fresh stoned cherries, and which he christened Boudin de cerises à la
Bentinck".
265:
wrote to his sister, "There has been a row at
Crockford's, and Ude dismissed. He told the committee he was worth ÂŁ4,000 a year. Their new man is quite a failure, so I think the great artist may yet return from Elba." The new man,
151:
in Lancashire. Favre describes Sefton as "this wealthy lord, who was known as the king of English Epicureans". Sefton paid Ude well: his salary was ÂŁ300 a year, according to Hayward. When Sefton died in 1838 he left Ude an
129:
Here our artist remained for about two years, when, owing to some difference of opinion between Madame Letitia and himself in matters arithmetical, he somewhat suddenly left that lady's service to honour our land with his
53:, Ude is thought to have tried numerous other occupations before returning to cooking and rising to the top of the profession. He eventually moved to England, where Ude was credited with introducing
106:. After returning to Paris he was for a short while an actor in a small theatre, and then worked unsuccessfully in finance and the civil service. By some accounts Ude fled France during the
236:£1,200 a year was an enormous sum in the 1820s – the equivalent of more than £1m in terms of 2020 incomes – although from it Ude had to pay all his assistant chefs and kitchen staff. The
613:(1827) Ude is identified as "Steward to His Royal Highness the Duke of York"; in the ninth edition (also 1827) the text is changed to "... His Royal Highness the late Duke of York".
244:
wrote in 1829 of "the classic Cuisine of Ude ... Ude's fame is boundless as is his talent. Does not London resound ... with the celebrity of this Professor of the culinary art?"
200:, where "his dinners were acknowledged to be better than any other Club could boast", according to the historian Arthur Humphreys. By the time of the fifth edition of
560:
In a survey of English cookery books, Arnold Whitaker Oxford lists more than two hundred published in Britain – mostly in London – before Ude's, beginning with
240:
comments, "At a time when club food consisted chiefly of boiled fowl, mutton, and roast beef, Ude's more refined cooking put Crockford's on the culinary map".
49:, first published in 1813 with thirteen new editions being written over the next three decades. After leaving an apprenticeship in the kitchens at the
670:
In French butchery the tendrons are from the middle of the underside of the animal, between the breast to the front and the flank to the rear.
165:
1346:
1325:
1232:
1194:
140:
1335:
Mars, Valerie (2013). "Experiencing French cookery in Nineteenth-century London". In Kelly, Debra; Martyn Cornick (eds.).
94:. According to this account Ude joined his father in the royal kitchens (he later described himself as "former cook to
661:
OED: "In French cookery: a dish or course brought in to replace one that has been removed. Now chiefly historical".
212:
582:. Favre could not even say truthfully that Ude's was the first French cookery book published in London: works by
271:
205:
583:
274:". He was indignant about his treatment by Crockford's but admitted, "Ah, I love that Club, though they are
1243:
1422:
267:
1479:
1498:
1127:
1093:
1043:
688:
OED: "A dish that is served during a course in place of one that is removed. Now chiefly historical".
635:
98:") but left to become apprenticed to, successively, a cheap jeweller, an engraver, a printer and a
1384:
1205:
1132:
1098:
1048:
640:
551:
In terms of 2020 earnings this equates to more than ÂŁ250,000 a year, according to MeasuringWorth.
587:
118:(1892), he remained in France throughout the revolution, returned to cooking and rose to become
1527:
1262:
679:
OED: "A side dish – one served before or alongside the roast meat in the main course of a meal"
37:– 10 April 1846) was a French chef and writer who spent the majority of his culinary career in
281:
Among Ude's friends in his later years was his successor as London's most famous French chef,
86:. Little is known for certain about his early years. In a biographical sketch written in 1835
1532:
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518:, calling Ude "the most learned of cooks", attributed to him the authorship of a book called
294:
241:
216:
91:
64:
50:
163:, in 1813. Favre calls it the first cookery book to be published in London, which, as the
90:
stated that Ude's mother was a milliner, who married a member of the kitchen staff at the
8:
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215:, George III's second son. Following the death of the duke in 1827 Ude became chef at
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of ÂŁ100, though the chef had not by then worked for him for more than twenty years.
123:
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230:
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60:
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177:
finds some truth in Favre's statement that Ude was among the first to popularise
107:
87:
809:"Five Ways to Compute the Relative Value of a UK Pound Amount, 1270 to Present"
1470:
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178:
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55:
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111:
42:
204:(1818) Ude had left the club. In 1821 he married (Camille) Barbe Lucot at
732:
579:
495:
Ude took care with his prose, and either coined or popularised the maxim
308:
grand cuisine. An example he gives of a typical dinner menu consists of:
286:
99:
1225:
Relish: The Extraordinary Life of Alexis Soyer, Victorian Celebrity Chef
626:
describes it as "now historical"; its most recent citation is from 1993.
512:
benumbed by the strict diet observed in the nursery and boarding-school.
1301:
Crockford's, or, The Goddess of Chance in St. James's Street, 1828–1844
183:
144:
95:
19:
523:
153:
38:
159:
While working for Sefton, Ude published the first edition of
103:
1316:
Jane, Tom (2006). "Nursery food". In Alan Davidson (ed.).
403:
Tendrons of glazed veal with lettuce and white wine sauce
211:
At some point between 1818 and 1826 Ude became steward to
186:
drew on it extensively for a description of a banquet in
1341:. London: University of London Press. pp. 217–240.
590:, among others, had been issued in English translations.
522:("The Science of the Mouth"). No such book is listed in
400:
Les tendrons de veau glacés aux laitues, à l'essence
380:
Les cotelettes d'agneau sautés, sauce à la macédoine
1320:(second ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press.
1207:
Character Sketches of Romance, Fiction and the Drama
929:
Ude (1827) title pages of eighth and ninth editions.
102:, after which he became traveller for a merchant in
59:
to the country. His clients included members of the
1283:The Art of Dining, Or, Gastronomy and Gastronomers
1120:
1086:
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1036:
628:
627:
383:Sauteed lamb chop with sauce of diced vegetables
1519:
1119:
1035:
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393:Sauteed breasts of plump chickens, off the bone
362:Westphalia ham in white wine and mushroom sauce
45:, he was the author of an influential cookbook,
492:The above is one of the simplest of his menus.
390:Le sauté de filets de poulets gras, au suprême
248:praised Ude's banquets as "quasi-Elysian". The
41:. The best known French cook in Britain before
338:Les tranches de cabilleau, sauce aux huitres
811:, MeasuringWorth. Retrieved 27 December 2022
963:in Ude (1829), unnumbered introductory page
1264:Dictionnaire universel de cuisine pratique
261:In 1838 Ude parted company with the club.
1363:
1298:
907:
905:
622:Receipt is an old word for "recipe"; the
435:Peas cooked with lettuce and baby onions
126:, the mother of Napoleon. Hayward wrote:
465:Puff pastry cases filled with marmalade
256:
18:
1367:The Life of Benjamin Disraeli, Volume 2
1279:
1005:
1003:
971:
969:
804:
802:
737:Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
727:
725:
370:La fricassé de poulets aux champignons
166:Oxford Dictionary of National Biography
1520:
1465:(eighth ed.). London: Ainsworth.
1386:English Cookery Books to the Year 1850
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462:Les puits d'amour garnis de marmalade
139:powerful of London. He became chef to
1503:(tenth ed.). London: Ainsworth.
1484:(ninth ed.). London: Ainsworth.
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770:
768:
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756:
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359:Le jambon de Westphalie, Ă l'essence
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1141:participating institution membership
1107:participating institution membership
1074:Dictionnaire de l’Académie française
1057:participating institution membership
1000:
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799:
649:participating institution membership
141:William Molyneux, 2nd Earl of Sefton
133:
1496:
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1401:
1389:. London: Oxford University Press.
1227:. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson.
868:
702:
13:
1446:(fourth ed.). London: Ebers.
899:Ude (1815) and (1816), title pages
763:
749:
300:
16:French chef and writer (1768–1846)
14:
1544:
1427:(third ed.). London: Ebers.
1408:(first ed.). London: Ebers.
1338:A History of the French in London
499:— "cooks are born, not made". In
373:Chicken fricassee with mushrooms
116:Dictionnaire universel de cuisine
1383:Oxford, Arnold Whitaker (1913).
1204:Brewer, Ebenezer Cobham (1896).
865:Oxford, p. 142; and Mars, p. 223
739:, Oxford University Press, 2004
566:in 1500, and including books by
341:Slices of cod with oyster sauce
213:Frederick Augustus, Duke of York
1242:Croker, Thomas Crofton (1829).
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173:) observes, is untrue, but the
110:. According to Hayward, and to
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297:. His widow lived until 1862.
1:
731:Levy, Paul and Robert Brown.
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534:Notes, references and sources
473:La tart de groseilles rouges
352:Chicken in sour cherry sauce
349:Le poulard Ă la Montmorencie
225:reported on 25 October 1827:
80:
74:
31:
1402:Ude, Louis-Eustache (1813).
1318:The Oxford Companion to Food
1076:. Retrieved 28 December 2022
743:UK public library membership
7:
1364:Monypenny, William (1912).
984:"Memoirs of Alexis Soyer",
206:St George's, Hanover Square
10:
1549:
1299:Humphreys, Arthur (1953).
1178:
856:Oxford, pp. 23–24, and 168
584:François Pierre La Varenne
143:, of Arlington Street off
1280:Hayward, Abraham (1852).
1128:Oxford English Dictionary
1094:Oxford English Dictionary
1044:Oxford English Dictionary
636:Oxford English Dictionary
624:Oxford English Dictionary
609:In the eighth edition of
452:Les asperges en bâtonets
319:
316:
313:
1185:Beatty, Bernard (2016).
988:, 28 December 1858, p. 3
792:"Fashionable Arrivals",
538:
432:Les pois à la française
289:at the French chapel in
268:Charles Elmé Francatelli
1370:. London: John Murray.
1133:Oxford University Press
1099:Oxford University Press
1049:Oxford University Press
942:, 25 October 1827, p. 3
881:, 18 April 1846, p. 255
879:Illustrated London News
641:Oxford University Press
497:Coquus nascitur non fit
408:Dishes de rĂ´t (roasts)
79:Ude was born in France
1303:. London: Hutchinson.
1261:Favre, Joseph (1892).
1189:. Taylor and Francis.
1171:Quoted in Jane, p. 545
877:"Louis Eustache Ude",
530:or obituaries of Ude.
331:Spring vegetable soup
328:Le potage printannier
24:
1013:, 14 April 1846, p. 8
733:"Ude, Louis-Eustache"
483:Le soufflé au citron
295:Kensal Green cemetery
257:Later years and death
242:Thomas Crofton Croker
22:
1245:Legends of the Lakes
1223:Cowen, Ruth (2006).
1026:, 24 June 1862, p. 1
588:Marie-Antoine CarĂŞme
526:or mentioned in the
520:La Science de Gueule
442:La gelée de fraises
291:Little George Street
92:Palace of Versailles
51:Palace of Versailles
1162:Ude (1829), p. lxvi
1131:(Online ed.).
1097:(Online ed.).
1047:(Online ed.).
838:Oxford, pp. 135–136
639:(Online ed.).
198:United Service Club
1286:. London: Murray.
1210:. New York: Hess.
1153:Ude (1829), p. xli
796:, 1 May 1827, p. 3
760:Hayward, pp. 88–89
563:The Boke of Cokery
28:Louis Eustache Ude
25:
23:Louis-Eustache Ude
1348:978-1-909646-48-3
1327:978-0-19-280681-9
1248:. London: Ebers.
1234:978-0-297-64562-7
1196:978-1-138-64856-2
1139:(Subscription or
1105:(Subscription or
1055:(Subscription or
951:Croker, pp. 81–81
920:Humphreys, p. 221
829:Oxford, pp. 76–77
794:Morning Chronicle
741:(subscription or
647:(Subscription or
490:
489:
455:Asparagus spears
445:Strawberry jelly
293:he was buried in
263:Benjamin Disraeli
246:The London Review
134:Career in England
124:Letitia Bonaparte
69:gentlemen's clubs
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1497:— (1829).
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108:Reign of Terror
88:Abraham Hayward
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1071:
1066:
1058:
1050:
1046:
1045:
1039:
1032:
1025:
1019:
1012:
1006:
1004:
994:
987:
981:
972:
970:
962:
957:
948:
941:
935:
926:
917:
908:
906:
896:
890:Beatty, p. 74
887:
880:
874:
872:
862:
853:
844:
835:
826:
817:
810:
805:
803:
795:
789:
780:
771:
769:
767:
757:
755:
753:
744:
738:
734:
728:
726:
724:
722:
720:
718:
716:
714:
712:
710:
708:
706:
701:
685:
676:
667:
658:
650:
642:
638:
637:
631:
625:
619:
612:
606:
596:
589:
585:
581:
577:
576:Maria Rundell
573:
572:Hannah Glasse
569:
565:
564:
557:
548:
544:
531:
529:
525:
521:
517:
509:
505:
502:
498:
493:
485:
482:
480:
479:
475:
472:
469:
468:
464:
461:
459:
458:
454:
451:
449:
448:
444:
441:
439:
438:
434:
431:
428:
427:
423:
420:
418:
417:
413:
410:
407:
406:
402:
399:
397:
396:
392:
389:
387:
386:
382:
379:
377:
376:
372:
369:
366:
365:
361:
358:
356:
355:
351:
348:
345:
344:
340:
337:
335:
334:
330:
327:
325:First course
324:
323:
312:
309:
303:
298:
296:
292:
288:
284:
279:
277:
273:
269:
264:
254:
251:
247:
243:
239:
232:
226:
224:
223:
218:
214:
209:
207:
203:
199:
193:
191:
190:
185:
180:
179:haute cuisine
176:
172:
168:
167:
162:
157:
155:
150:
149:Croxteth Hall
146:
142:
127:
125:
121:
117:
113:
109:
105:
101:
97:
93:
89:
72:
70:
66:
62:
58:
57:
56:haute cuisine
52:
48:
44:
40:
29:
21:
1533:French chefs
1499:
1480:
1461:
1442:
1423:
1404:
1385:
1366:
1337:
1317:
1300:
1282:
1263:
1244:
1224:
1206:
1186:
1167:
1158:
1149:
1126:
1115:
1092:
1081:
1073:
1065:
1042:
1031:
1023:
1018:
1010:
993:
985:
980:
960:
956:
947:
940:The Standard
939:
934:
925:
916:
895:
886:
878:
861:
852:
843:
834:
825:
816:
793:
788:
783:Mars, p. 217
779:
736:
684:
675:
666:
657:
634:
623:
618:
610:
605:
595:
561:
556:
547:
527:
519:
514:
506:
500:
496:
494:
491:
421:Les cailles
320:Translation
306:
301:
283:Alexis Soyer
280:
275:
260:
249:
245:
237:
235:
222:The Standard
220:
210:
201:
194:
188:
174:
170:
164:
160:
158:
137:
120:chef d'hĂ´tel
119:
115:
112:Joseph Favre
78:
65:royal family
54:
46:
43:Alexis Soyer
27:
26:
580:Eliza Acton
287:Solemn mass
217:Crockford's
100:haberdasher
84: 1768
35: 1768
1522:Categories
1471:1017373056
1414:1042832199
1273:1348890867
1216:1086753166
1143:required.)
1109:required.)
1088:"entremet"
1059:required.)
1022:"Deaths",
1009:"Deaths",
696:References
651:required.)
568:Robert May
429:Entremets
411:Le chapon
184:Lord Byron
145:Piccadilly
75:Early life
1509:504810234
1490:504810227
1395:163481643
1376:639994602
1292:556952912
1254:871724599
1070:"tendron"
1024:The Times
745:required)
630:"receipt"
130:presence.
96:Louis XVI
1452:46643737
1433:27417309
1122:"remove"
1038:"relevé"
938:"News",
524:WorldCat
367:Entrées
346:Relevés
272:cookmaid
189:Don Juan
1309:3145494
1179:Sources
470:Remove
424:Quails
314:Course
276:ingrats
154:annuity
114:in the
39:England
1507:
1488:
1469:
1450:
1431:
1412:
1393:
1374:
1355:
1345:
1324:
1307:
1290:
1271:
1252:
1231:
1214:
1193:
961:Quoted
600:Club".
578:, and
414:Capon
1353:JSTOR
1137:
1103:
1053:
645:
539:Notes
317:Dish
1505:OCLC
1486:OCLC
1467:OCLC
1448:OCLC
1429:OCLC
1410:OCLC
1391:OCLC
1372:OCLC
1343:ISBN
1322:ISBN
1305:OCLC
1288:OCLC
1269:OCLC
1250:OCLC
1229:ISBN
1212:OCLC
1191:ISBN
586:and
528:ODNB
250:ODNB
238:ODNB
175:ODNB
171:ODNB
147:and
122:for
104:Lyon
67:and
278:".
1524::
1351:.
1125:.
1091:.
1072:,
1041:.
1002:^
968:^
904:^
870:^
801:^
765:^
751:^
735:,
704:^
633:.
574:,
570:,
208:.
192:.
81:c.
71:.
63:,
32:c.
1511:.
1492:.
1473:.
1454:.
1435:.
1416:.
1397:.
1378:.
1359:.
1330:.
1311:.
1294:.
1275:.
1256:.
1237:.
1218:.
1199:.
1135:.
1101:.
1051:.
643:.
233:.
169:(
30:(
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