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displaced from the area, leading to the breaking up of the clan. The loss of the resources that the mountain provided, the ravages of
European disease, and armed clashes with the settlers were all contributing factors. By the early 1870s, the last of the Djurid Balud had been relocated to mission stations. Some of their descendants still live in the area and there are also a number of archaeological sites nearby. Indeed, a survey of Mount Arapiles in 1992 located no fewer than 42 Aboriginal archaeological sites, including "quarries" for hard stone for implements, scarred trees and rock art sites.
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in April 1985 was major achievement. The route blasts up the middle of a blank, attractive orange wall and gave
Arapiles (and Australia) international exposure. At the time it was graded 32 and was the hardest climb in the world, setting a new benchmark for difficulty. Following Güllich's triumph, a
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Chipping the rock to 'improve' holds is regarded as vandalism and is theoretically not tolerated. However, the many exceptions to this stance include routes such as: Steps Ahead, London
Calling, 'Sean's route in The Bluffs', Ethiopia, Punks in the Gym, Lord of the Rings, Wackford direct, Pet Abuse,
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after seeing it in a tourist guide, and saw that their destination was dwarfed by Mount
Arapiles. It was a number of weeks and visits before climbing was actually attempted at Arapiles, with the first climbs being recorded in November 1963 on what is now called "The Pinnacle Face". The pioneering
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Development of new routes continues today, albeit at a slow pace. An
Arapiles climbing guide update was started in March 2009, which records all new or changed routes at Arapiles since the publication of the 2008 guidebook. In 2011 the guidebook was released in both smartphone and tablet format.
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Many routes at
Arapiles have lower-offs, so they can be approached from above or via an easier route. There is a strong tradition dating to the '80s of bringing the route down to your level, and it is now commonplace to rap in and pre-place gear. There are many routes with a mixture of fixed and
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and Mark
Moorhead helped introduce a number of 26+ climbs, though the latter two did not often grade their climbs accurately (choosing to 'undergrade' them instead). This purposeful undergrading is known as "sandbagging" and is still common in Australian climbing (some would call it tradition),
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inhabited the nearby area for thousands of years prior to the
European colonisation of Australia. They used the mountain's hard sandstone for making various stone tools, and found shelter in its many gullies and small caves. Following European settlement in the mid-1840s, the Djurid Balud were
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routes. However, there are not many sport routes easier than 23. Popular bolted routes can be found at the following areas: Dec Crag, Flight Wall and surrounds, Skyline Walls, The Bluffs, Strolling Wall, Castle Crag, The Pharos, Yesterday Gully, Doggers Gully, Poosticks Wall.
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Word of Barber's achievements spread and attracted a number of new young climbers to
Arapiles. This group was later given the name "The New Wave" and throughout the rest of the 70s and early 80s they were responsible for scores of routes in the grade 20–25 range. The likes of
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Arapiles is still a popular climbing destination, with some visitors staying for months at a time. The warm weather, accessibility, quantity and quality of climbs have helped to maintain the popularity of
Arapiles with locals, Australians and international travellers alike.
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567:. Interest in Arapiles resurfaced in late 1973 with many imposing lines being climbed with a few aids. These routes brought a sense of accomplishment to the climbing community as new grades were continually being created. In 1975, American visitor "Hot"
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Centenary Park is a camp ground on the East side of the mount. Access is from Centenary Park Road. a fee is payable. There are no powered sites, and campfires are only permitted between May and October. There is a toilet block with flush toilets.
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areas spread around Arapiles that cater for all abilities. Two areas that are close to camp are the Krondorf Area and the Golden Streak Area. They are often populated in the late afternoon and early evening after the day's climbing has been done.
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group, consisting of the Craddocks, Doug Angus, Peter Jackson, and Greg Lovejoy split into two parties, with each party claiming a route on the same day. Many more climbs were put up in the following days and weeks, including the classic climb
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Arapiles is preserved due to a granitic intrusion that was emplaced below the sandstone and conglomerate approx 400 Ma, or 20 million years after sedimentation. That intrusion advected heat from lower in the crust, facilitating pervasive quartz
544:(16). These climbs were done on the same day and are still regarded as classic climbs, often seeing numerous ascents per day. Activity steadily increased at Arapiles and in August 1966, Mike Stone and Ian Speedie released the second guidebook,
575:. The 21-year-old made a significant impact at Arapiles, and his visit was a pivotal point in Australian climbing, as climbers worked to support the legacy of Barber by freeing their new lines instead of being content to leave in aid points.
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https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Ian_Clark19/publication/322413717_Multiple_Aboriginal_placenames_in_western_and_central_Victoria/links/5a8f5e3eaca27214056017da/Multiple-Aboriginal-placenames-in-western-and-central-Victoria.pdf
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Although the unmetamorphosed, but otherwise similar, sediments surrounding "the Mount" have eroded away, Arapiles has been preserved, because the total occulsion of pore space related to the cementation helps to limit erosion.
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Mount Arapiles as seen from Mitre Rock. The main climbing areas are located on the left of this photo; the Pharos and the Watchtower faces are visible, while others are out of sight around the left corner.
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Bard Buttress is a large pillar adjacent to Tiger Wall, the most dominating feature of Arapiles to the passing observer. It features many multi-pitch classics and the longest climbs at Arapiles.
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number of routes of similar difficulty have been put up, though none take the "easiest way up" such an impressive feature. It has a single chipped hold known as the 'birdbath hold' created by
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The European colonisation of Australia also brought with it many explorers to chart the continent. The first recorded ascent of Arapiles was on 23 July 1836, by the European explorer,
548:. It was the first hardcover guide in Australia and featured 108 climbs. The rest of the 1960s saw many more new routes put up of increasing difficulty, with many including numerous
490:), most ascentionists choose to free climb one of the thousands of vertical routes on the mountain. Since the advent of modern rock climbing, thousands of routes have been recorded.
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fluids that were driven off as the rock cooled. Those fluids probably also contributed to the cementation of the sediments. The process of direct heating due to
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The left and right faces are water-streaked slabs that straddle the Watchtower itself, which is a rough buttress that has separated from the mountain proper.
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area – where climbers are expected to place their own protection, and remove it after climbing. The vast majority of climbs are therefore done using
779:(32), which at one time was considered the most difficult climb in the world; and the Back Wall, which has a small collection of difficult classics.
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An isolated outcrop to the north of Arapiles, it has many excellent easier routes and is a popular day trip area especially on busy weekends.
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There is a plaque commemorating his contributions to Arapiles on the aptly named "Plaque Rock", which is close to the current campgrounds.
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387:"This certainly was a remarkable portion of the earth's surface, and rather resembled that of the moon as seen through a telescope."
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off the back of Muldoon, 13. The start of the climb is the large vertical crack visible to the right of the climber at the bottom.
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A small free standing rock opposite Tiger Wall; Castle Crag is a heavily concentrated area of climbing in the grade 20–26 range.
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Arapiles was first considered for climbing in a recreational manner in September 1963, when Bob and Steve Craddock travelled to
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before it was against ethics. In the early 1990s the hold crumbled, and a climber added glue to it, which remains to this day.
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of the same depositional system, which is evidenced by the lesser quantity of conglomerate and smaller average grain size.
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and lateral accretion surfaces visible in the cliffs, and the presence of many beds containing well rounded, pebble size
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Ian Clark, 'Multiple Aboriginal placenames in western and central Victoria', in Laura Kostanski and Luise Hercus (eds),
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Popular with beginners, school groups and regulars; due to the plentiful classics and its proximity to the campgrounds.
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due to the quantity and quality of climbs. It is one of the premier climbing sites in Australia along with the nearby
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831:(21), a famous overhanging roof that is made all the more popular for being one of Australia's most photogenic.
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The following is a list of the more notable climbing areas at Arapiles, including examples of famous climbs.
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Note: the modern history of Mount Arapiles is covered in greater detail in many of the works listed in the
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Popular with beginners and school groups, due to the number of easier climbs and secluded location.
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These two great blocks rest atop Tiger Wall and offer many classic lines that end in a satisfying
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Arapiles update – an update of new and changed routes at Arapiles since the 2008 guidebook.
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811:(16) is an imposing line that follows the crack between the Watchtower and the Right Face.
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Home of the "Flight Deck", a collection of more difficult climbs viewable from The Pines.
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Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Arapiles Selected Climbs, Open Spaces Publishing, 2008.
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There a number of notable cliffs are in this area, including Henry Bolte Wall, a
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529:(5), and in 1964 Steve Craddock and his father Bob produced the first Arapiles
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Indigenous and Minority Placenames: Australian and International Perspectives
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The early 70s saw a lull in activity at Arapiles as attention shifted to the
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Although there are many hiking routes to the top (including one resembling a
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A website designed to inform people about rock climbing at Mount Arapiles
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The rock has a distinct red/orange tinge that is due to trace amounts of
552:. The focus was on "getting up the climb... and staying alive", whether
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is a rock formation that rises about 140 metres (460 ft) above the
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of the detrital grains. The granite also contained some highly
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approximately 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) west of the town of
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One of the best online Rock Climbing sites for Mount Arapiles
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March 1965 saw the establishment of two significant climbs:
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Home of the first recorded climbs at Arapiles, and also to
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on a school duplicating machine (featuring 15 routes).
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the first recorded ascent by a European 23 July 1836 by
1030:"Parks Victoria: Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park page"
368:. He named the landmark after the Arapiles hills near
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Park Victoria (State Government of Victoria) (2004).
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arrived and began freeing these routes with minimal
383:An extract from Mitchell's diary on 22 July reads:
656:natural gear for which this approach is suitable.
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672:The Organ Pipes, with climbers visible for scale.
423:period (approx 420 Ma), as part of a substantial
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380:took place, in which Mitchell had seen action.
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1021:Chris Baxter; "Tsunamia: the New Wave Hits",
317:. Arapiles is a very popular destination for
459:transport is known as contact metamorphism.
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1068:Issue 17: Mountain Profile on Mt. Arapiles
999:A rock climbers' Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
827:area; and Kachoong Cliffs, which features
419:was laid down in the earliest part of the
439:mountain range contains some more distal
71:Learn how and when to remove this message
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497:
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399:Mount Arapiles is primarily composed of
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34:This article includes a list of general
660:Slopin' Sleazin' and Cecil B de Mille.
628:Mount Arapiles is mainly regarded as a
1988:
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795:(5), a classic multi-pitch adventure.
16:Rock formation in Victoria, Australia
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969:Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest (2008).
588:though not as much as it once was.
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40:it lacks sufficient corresponding
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1001:, Victorian Climbing Club, 1994.
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1103:Mountains in Victoria, Australia
973:. Open Spaces Publishing, 2008.
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352:Map of Mount Arapiles, Victoria.
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1727:(1,130 m or 3,707 ft)
1719:(1,247 m or 4,091 ft)
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1123:(1,167 m or 3,829 ft)
941:(ANU Press, 2014) 239, 240 <
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315:Mount Arapiles-Tooan State Park
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848:Arapiles climbing guide update
647:Arapiles also has a number of
470:and various other impurities.
407:that was originally quartzose
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2001:Mountains of Victoria (state)
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1141:(364 m or 1,194 ft)
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919:List of mountains in Victoria
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356:The Djurid Baluk clan of the
1032:. Retrieved 3 November 2005.
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1996:Climbing areas of Australia
1944:(137 m or 449 ft)
1936:(148 m or 486 ft)
1928:(178 m or 584 ft)
1920:(216 m or 709 ft)
1912:(240 m or 787 ft)
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114:370 metres (1,210 ft)
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329:name for the formation is
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415:(quartz arenite). That
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55:more precise citations.
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158:36.75083°S 141.83278°E
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366:Major Thomas Mitchell
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1550:Buggery (Wangaratta)
801:The Watchtower Faces
634:removable protection
630:traditional climbing
163:-36.75083; 141.83278
2011:Cliffs of Australia
378:Battle of Salamanca
313:and is part of the
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1260:South Jawbone Peak
1159:Bogong High Plains
956:"Punks in the Gym"
817:The Northern Group
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437:Grampians/Gariwerd
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104:Highest point
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825:sport climbing
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665:
664:Climbing areas
662:
649:sport climbing
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429:stratification
425:fluvial system
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86:Mount Arapiles
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61:September 2009
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1023:Rock Magazine
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1007:0-949451-06-1
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958:. 5 May 2015.
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721:Bard Buttress
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607:Martin Scheel
603:
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598:'s ascent of
597:
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582:
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566:
565:Mount Buffalo
562:
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554:free climbing
551:
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435:. The nearby
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344:Early history
336:
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328:
324:
320:
319:rock climbers
316:
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308:
304:
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296:
292:
283:
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279:Easiest route
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246:Mountain type
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32:
23:
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19:
1968:
1961:
1954:
1947:
1939:
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1869:Briggs Bluff
1867:
1859:
1851:
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1827:
1819:
1811:
1803:
1796:Hanging Rock
1794:
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1722:
1714:
1706:
1697:
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1579:
1574:Brumby Point
1572:
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851:
836:
828:
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793:Tiptoe Ridge
792:
784:
776:
764:
752:
745:peak bagging
736:
724:
720:
708:
696:
684:
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658:
654:
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627:
618:
599:
590:
581:Kim Carrigan
577:
569:Henry Barber
558:
545:
541:
537:
535:
527:Tiptoe Ridge
526:
519:
510:
485:
465:
461:
445:
409:conglomerate
398:
390:
386:
382:
376:, where the
363:
355:
331:
330:
290:
289:
265:First ascent
209:Location in
201:
88:
67:
58:
39:
18:
1917:Warrnambool
1837:Tarrengower
1558:Bulla Bulla
1542:Donna Buang
1321:Speculation
1297:Middle Peak
1292:Moscow Peak
1209:Spion Kopje
1173:Nelse North
753:Castle Crag
747:experience.
697:The Atridae
610: [
546:Mt Arapiles
488:via ferrata
449:cementation
161: /
149:141°49′58″E
136:Coordinates
53:introducing
1990:Categories
1970:Jack Hills
1933:Wycheproof
1845:Warrenmang
1805:Warrenheip
1798:/ Diogenes
1661:Warrenmang
1486:St Gwinear
1446:Wellington
1374:Feathertop
1302:Cleft Peak
1167:Nelse West
1060:Chockstone
925:References
863:bouldering
857:Bouldering
837:Mitre Rock
765:The Pharos
737:The Bluffs
725:Tiger Wall
624:Philosophy
573:protection
550:aid points
522:Mitre Rock
513:References
468:iron oxide
327:Wotjobaluk
284:Hike/drive
123:Prominence
36:references
1885:You Yangs
1853:Teneriffe
1821:Beckworth
1788:Buninyong
1780:Alexander
1740:Elizabeth
1635:Dandenong
1248:Sugarloaf
1127:Difficult
1111:Grampians
644:and RPs.
561:Grampians
540:(12) and
503:Abseiling
453:siliceous
417:protolith
413:sandstone
401:quartzite
370:Salamanca
323:Grampians
303:Australia
252:quartzite
234:Australia
174:Geography
146:36°45′3″S
110:Elevation
1956:Hopeless
1925:Budj Bim
1909:Elephant
1877:Arapiles
1813:Franklin
1724:Horsfall
1716:Toorongo
1534:Terrible
1478:Torbreck
1430:The Horn
1414:Stirling
879:See also
829:Kachoong
636:such as
594:climber
585:Mike Law
556:or not.
538:The Bard
515:section.
474:Climbing
421:Devonian
307:Arapiles
299:Victoria
259:Climbing
230:Victoria
228:region,
222:Location
211:Victoria
202:(Djurid)
89:(Djurid)
2006:Wimmera
1764:Riddell
1708:Ritchie
1699:Matlock
1614:Macedon
1566:Dom Dom
1494:Mueller
1462:Baw Baw
1438:Buffalo
1345:Despair
1337:Koonika
1329:Cobbler
1120:William
870:Camping
494:History
395:Geology
339:History
311:Natimuk
295:Wimmera
240:Geology
226:Wimmera
49:improve
1949:Fraser
1941:Cooper
1901:Noorat
1861:Napier
1772:Beenak
1748:Ghiran
1680:Tassie
1526:Selwyn
1510:Useful
1422:Howitt
1390:Buller
1365:Bogong
1188:Hotham
1132:Wilson
1015:
1005:
977:
592:German
441:facies
433:clasts
332:Djurid
325:. The
38:, but
1893:Leura
1690:Other
1655:Avoca
1595:Other
1518:Tambo
1502:Selma
1406:Gibbo
1398:Wills
1356:Other
1196:McKay
945:>
614:]
457:magma
374:Spain
1963:Typo
1732:Kaye
1581:Pine
1382:Loch
1235:Lake
1203:Cope
1138:Zero
1013:ISBN
1003:ISBN
975:ISBN
723:and
683:and
642:cams
638:nuts
563:and
411:and
403:, a
1215:Jim
129:AHD
116:AHD
1992::
640:,
612:de
583:,
372:,
335:.
301:,
232:,
1095:e
1088:t
1081:v
983:.
254:)
74:)
68:(
63:)
59:(
45:.
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