Knowledge

Free climbing

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Free climbing means using no form of artificial or mechanical aid to help progression in ascending a route. Even the act of pulling on the climbing protection equipment as employed in 'French free climbing' (either placed by the climber while climbing or already in situ with pre-placed
1037: 1047: 674:(V+/A1), in the Frankenjura, signifying he had "free climbed" it as a redpoint (i.e. after many failed attempts); the redpoint became the accepted definition of what constituted a " 637:" and proposed 6 rules of free climbing including the important rule 4: "The piton is an emergency aid and not the basis of a system of mountaineering". In 1913, German climber 2823: 924:, i.e. that you must always climb the route first try. Free climbing in traditional climbing and sport climbing also uses the 'redpoint' as a definition of a first free ascent. 753:
Despite the name, 'French free climbing' is not considered 'free climbing' per se, and a climber that uses the technique could not claim a 'first free ascent' of a new route.
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the sport of climbing on rocks, up mountains, or up walls or buildings using no equipment to help you to climb, only ropes or other safety devices that prevent falling
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to protect the soft sandstone rock. The rules said that only natural holds were allowed, and these "rules for free climbing" are in still use today.
653: 1825: 881:, as no forms of additional mechanical devices are employed in free soloing, it is, almost by definition, the purest form of free climbing. 898:, i.e. that you must always be alone and without any partner. Free climbing in traditional climbing and sport climbing uses a supporting 1810: 100: 1150: 2864: 2833: 538: 1859: 1854: 859:
equipment is used (placed by the climber as they ascend the route), but not for any form of aid in progression on the climbing route.
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to help overcome the obstacles encountered while ascending a route. The development of free climbing was an important moment in the
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climbing without using pitons, Ă©triers, etc, as direct aids to ascent, but using ropes, belays, etc, at discretion for security
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equipment. Free climbing in traditional climbing and sport climbing uses climbing protection (but not to aid progression).
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routes where it is important that the climber(s) progress efficiently and not get overly delayed on a specific section.
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Free climbing can be performed in several formats depending on the type of climbing protection used, including
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on traditional climbing routes), as a source of aid in ascending the climbing route. It is equivalent to an
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are used for climbing protection, but again, not for any form of aid in progression on the climbing route.
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dispute"), by advocating for a transition to "free climbing" via a series of essays and articles in the
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Free climbing has been called "rock climbing's most commonly mistaken term", with problems including:
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Free climbing can be performed in a variety of types of climbing, and most importantly:
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Free climbing is related to, but separate from, the broader climbing topic area of
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The free climbing movement was an important development in the
1255:"Who Did It First? Style, Grades and Dispute in First Ascents" 2876: 2723: 2195: 2073: 1905: 1228:"What Is A Redpoint In Climbing? – Climbing Jargon Explained" 1112:
Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research
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Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagnes
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The first "free climb" of a climbing route is known as the
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but not as an artificial aid to help them in ascending the
1203:"Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean?" 694:. They also chronicle whether the "free climb" was done 1074:"The Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical" 1038:"Rock climbing: from ancient practice to Olympic sport" 916:
Incorrectly assuming that "free climbing" always means
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Incorrectly assuming that "free climbing" always means
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Incorrectly assuming that "free climbing" always means
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aid climbing technique and is typically used on longer
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Zhu, Beifeng; Chen, Ruizhi; Li, Yuan (9 August 2021).
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Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada
1314:"Climb Long Routes Faster With This Simple Aid Trick" 690:, or FFA, and is chronicled by climbing journals and 2871:
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
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Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade
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Union of International Mountain Leader Associations
1151:"Kurt Albert is dead. Goodbye to a climbing legend" 19:For climbing without protection or a partner, see 1108:"The Origin and Early Evolution of Rock Climbing" 593:(uses permanently fixed in-situ protection), and 2956: 1406: 698:(i.e. first try without any prior information), 1463: 532: 702:(i.e. first try with prior information), or 1438:Free Climbing vs Free Solo vs Solo Climbing 2865:International Federation of Sport Climbing 1470: 1456: 1380: 1068: 652:), which included the first binding rules 643:Der Bergsteiger in der Sächsischen Schweiz 539: 525: 1123: 1105: 1035: 1413:Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills 1252: 1101: 1099: 1031: 1029: 25: 1311: 1062: 717: 589:(uses temporary removable protection), 2957: 1281: 1279: 1277: 1175:Hobley, Nicholas (28 September 2020). 1174: 1148: 1451: 1346: 1344: 1342: 1340: 1338: 1336: 1334: 1200: 1096: 1026: 841:and carries an aid climbing grade of 2925: 1416:(9th ed.). Quiller Publishing. 1149:Hobley, Nicholas (29 October 2010). 1036:Wilkinson, Freddie (14 March 2019). 885: 681: 2937: 1274: 1253:Sanzarro, Francis (22 March 2022). 909:, i.e. that you must never use any 16:Climbing without using aid climbing 13: 1374: 1331: 1220: 1194: 582:(or FFA) of a route by a climber. 558:in which the climber can only use 14: 2976: 2834:South African Climbing Federation 1431: 663:painted his first "Rotpunkt" (or 617:started what became known as the 601:(uses no protection whatsoever). 2936: 2924: 2913: 2912: 2900: 1806:IFSC World Championships winners 1201:Pardy, Aaron (5 November 2022). 816: 802: 785: 770: 641:published the second edition of 73: 1312:Synnott, Mark (2 August 2021). 1305: 1246: 2804:British Mountaineering Council 1287:"What is French free climbing" 1168: 1142: 995: 964: 764:Various forms of free climbing 1: 1384:; Gaines, Bob (August 2022). 957: 1477: 613:. In 1911, Austrian climber 7: 1125:10.2991/assehr.k.210806.124 1118:. Atlantis Press: 662–667. 935: 10: 2981: 1008:Collins English Dictionary 604: 18: 2896: 2857: 2794:Appalachian Mountain Club 2764: 2757: 2601: 2551: 2470: 2463: 2346: 2225: 2136: 1896: 1887: 1880: 1778: 1703: 1632: 1597: 1501: 1492: 1485: 865:, where pre-placed fixed 2709:Mountain Safety Research 2704:Mountain Equipment Co-op 756: 710:are important events in 659:In 1975, German climber 654:for climbing in the area 611:history of rock climbing 576:history of rock climbing 2839:South Tyrol Alpine Club 2634:Eastern Mountain Sports 2500:Canadian Alpine Journal 2493:American Alpine Journal 1756:Roof and tunnel hacking 2659:Holubar Mountaineering 2471:Magazines and journals 1801:IFSC World Cup winners 51: 30:Climber free climbing 2784:Alpine Club of Canada 2694:Marmot Mountain Works 2649:GERRY Mountain Sports 667:) on the base of the 630:German Alpine Journal 29: 2814:Club Alpino Italiano 2799:Austrian Alpine Club 2789:American Alpine Club 977:Cambridge Dictionary 853:Traditional climbing 724:French free climbing 718:French free climbing 587:traditional climbing 44:traditional climbing 2809:Club Alpin Français 2183:Mountaineering boot 1796:Piolet d'Or winners 1043:National Geographic 911:climbing protection 857:climbing protection 672:Adolf Rott Ged.-Weg 564:climbing protection 96:Piolet d'Or winners 48:climbing protection 2829:German Alpine Club 947:Rope solo climbing 942:Free solo climbing 879:Free solo climbing 855:, where temporary 810:Free solo climbing 633:where he defined " 599:free solo climbing 560:climbing equipment 52: 32:Sugar Cane Country 21:Free solo climbing 2965:Types of climbing 2952: 2951: 2892: 2891: 2844:Swiss Alpine Club 2597: 2596: 2552:Non-fiction films 2528:Planinski Vestnik 2521:Himalayan Journal 2459: 2458: 2221: 2220: 1850:Historical events 1821:Eight-thousanders 1774: 1773: 1628: 1627: 1386:How to Rock Climb 1135:978-94-6239-414-8 1050:on March 27, 2021 886:Misunderstandings 794:traditional climb 744:big wall climbing 722:The derived term 688:first free ascent 682:First free ascent 676:first free ascent 649:Saxon Switzerland 580:first free ascent 549: 548: 130:Eight-thousanders 120:Historical events 46:style (i.e. with 2972: 2940: 2939: 2928: 2927: 2916: 2915: 2904: 2762: 2761: 2714:Outdoor Research 2468: 2467: 1894: 1893: 1885: 1884: 1855:Grade milestones 1664:Expedition style 1499: 1498: 1490: 1489: 1472: 1465: 1458: 1449: 1448: 1427: 1408:The Mountaineers 1403: 1388:(6th ed.). 1368: 1367: 1365: 1363: 1348: 1329: 1328: 1326: 1324: 1309: 1303: 1302: 1300: 1298: 1283: 1272: 1271: 1269: 1267: 1250: 1244: 1243: 1241: 1239: 1234:. 2 October 2020 1224: 1218: 1217: 1215: 1213: 1207:Gripped Magazine 1198: 1192: 1191: 1189: 1187: 1172: 1166: 1165: 1163: 1161: 1146: 1140: 1139: 1127: 1103: 1094: 1093: 1091: 1089: 1070:Middendorf, John 1066: 1060: 1059: 1057: 1055: 1046:. Archived from 1033: 1024: 1023: 1018: 1016: 999: 993: 992: 987: 985: 968: 837:) is considered 820: 806: 789: 774: 712:climbing history 708:grade milestones 620:Mauerhakenstreit 541: 534: 527: 286:Expedition style 125:Grade milestones 77: 54: 53: 2980: 2979: 2975: 2974: 2973: 2971: 2970: 2969: 2955: 2954: 2953: 2948: 2888: 2853: 2753: 2619:Cascade Designs 2593: 2547: 2455: 2342: 2217: 2151:Abalakov thread 2132: 1876: 1770: 1699: 1624: 1593: 1577:Deep-water solo 1481: 1476: 1434: 1424: 1400: 1377: 1375:Further reading 1372: 1371: 1361: 1359: 1358:. 11 April 2021 1350: 1349: 1332: 1322: 1320: 1310: 1306: 1296: 1294: 1293:. 12 April 2021 1285: 1284: 1275: 1265: 1263: 1251: 1247: 1237: 1235: 1226: 1225: 1221: 1211: 1209: 1199: 1195: 1185: 1183: 1173: 1169: 1159: 1157: 1147: 1143: 1136: 1104: 1097: 1087: 1085: 1067: 1063: 1053: 1051: 1034: 1027: 1014: 1012: 1003:"Free climbing" 1001: 1000: 996: 983: 981: 972:"Free climbing" 970: 969: 965: 960: 938: 888: 830: 829: 828: 827: 826: 821: 813: 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2483: 2481: 2480: 2476: 2475: 2473: 2469: 2466: 2462: 2450: 2447: 2445: 2442: 2440: 2437: 2435: 2434:Bachar ladder 2432: 2431: 2429: 2427: 2424: 2422: 2419: 2417: 2414: 2412: 2409: 2405: 2402: 2400: 2397: 2395: 2392: 2390: 2387: 2385: 2384:Climbing wall 2382: 2380: 2377: 2375: 2372: 2371: 2370: 2367: 2365: 2362: 2360: 2359:Approach shoe 2357: 2355: 2352: 2351: 2349: 2345: 2337: 2334: 2333: 2332: 2329: 2327: 2324: 2320: 2317: 2316: 2315: 2312: 2310: 2307: 2303: 2300: 2298: 2295: 2294: 2293: 2290: 2286: 2283: 2281: 2278: 2276: 2273: 2272: 2271: 2268: 2266: 2263: 2261: 2258: 2256: 2253: 2251: 2248: 2244: 2241: 2239: 2236: 2235: 2234: 2231: 2230: 2228: 2224: 2214: 2211: 2209: 2206: 2202: 2199: 2197: 2194: 2192: 2189: 2188: 2186: 2184: 2181: 2179: 2176: 2172: 2169: 2168: 2167: 2164: 2162: 2159: 2157: 2154: 2152: 2149: 2147: 2144: 2143: 2141: 2139: 2135: 2129: 2126: 2124: 2121: 2117: 2114: 2113: 2112: 2109: 2107: 2104: 2100: 2097: 2095: 2092: 2091: 2090: 2087: 2085: 2082: 2080: 2077: 2075: 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1660: 1657: 1656: 1655: 1652: 1648: 1645: 1644: 1643: 1640: 1639: 1637: 1635: 1631: 1621: 1618: 1616: 1613: 1611: 1608: 1606: 1603: 1602: 1600: 1596: 1590: 1587: 1583: 1580: 1578: 1575: 1573: 1570: 1569: 1568: 1565: 1561: 1558: 1556: 1553: 1552: 1551: 1548: 1544: 1541: 1540: 1539: 1536: 1532: 1529: 1528: 1527: 1524: 1520: 1517: 1516: 1515: 1512: 1510: 1507: 1506: 1504: 1500: 1497: 1495: 1494:Rock climbing 1491: 1488: 1484: 1480: 1473: 1468: 1466: 1461: 1459: 1454: 1453: 1450: 1443: 1439: 1436: 1435: 1425: 1419: 1415: 1414: 1409: 1405: 1401: 1395: 1391: 1390:Falcon Guides 1387: 1383: 1379: 1378: 1357: 1353: 1347: 1345: 1343: 1341: 1339: 1337: 1335: 1319: 1315: 1308: 1292: 1288: 1282: 1280: 1278: 1262: 1261: 1256: 1249: 1233: 1229: 1223: 1208: 1204: 1197: 1182: 1178: 1171: 1156: 1152: 1145: 1137: 1131: 1126: 1121: 1117: 1113: 1109: 1102: 1100: 1083: 1079: 1075: 1071: 1065: 1049: 1045: 1044: 1039: 1032: 1030: 1022: 1010: 1009: 1004: 998: 991: 979: 978: 973: 967: 963: 953: 952:Solo climbing 950: 948: 945: 943: 940: 939: 933: 931: 923: 919: 915: 912: 908: 904: 901: 897: 896:solo climbing 893: 892: 891: 880: 877: 874: 871: 868: 864: 861: 858: 854: 851: 850: 849: 846: 844: 840: 836: 825: 819: 811: 805: 795: 788: 780: 773: 754: 751: 749: 745: 741: 737: 733: 729: 725: 715: 713: 709: 705: 701: 697: 693: 689: 679: 677: 673: 670: 666: 662: 657: 655: 651: 650: 644: 640: 636: 632: 631: 626: 622: 621: 616: 612: 602: 600: 596: 592: 588: 583: 581: 577: 573: 569: 565: 561: 557: 556:rock climbing 554:is a form of 553: 552:Free climbing 542: 537: 535: 530: 528: 523: 522: 520: 519: 511: 508: 506: 503: 501: 498: 497: 496: 493: 491: 488: 484: 481: 479: 476: 475: 474: 471: 469: 466: 465: 463: 462: 458: 457: 451: 448: 446: 443: 441: 438: 436: 435:Self rescuing 433: 431: 428: 424: 421: 420: 419: 416: 414: 411: 409: 406: 405: 403: 402: 398: 397: 391: 388: 386: 383: 381: 378: 376: 373: 371: 368: 366: 363: 361: 358: 356: 353: 351: 348: 346: 343: 341: 338: 336: 333: 331: 328: 327: 325: 324: 320: 319: 311: 308: 307: 306: 303: 299: 296: 295: 294: 291: 287: 284: 282: 279: 278: 277: 274: 270: 267: 265: 262: 261: 260: 257: 256: 254: 253: 250: 246: 245: 239: 236: 232: 229: 227: 224: 222: 219: 218: 217: 214: 210: 207: 205: 202: 201: 200: 197: 193: 190: 189: 188: 185: 181: 178: 177: 176: 173: 169: 166: 165: 164: 161: 159: 156: 155: 153: 152: 149: 148:rock climbing 145: 144: 138: 135: 131: 128: 126: 123: 122: 121: 118: 114: 111: 110: 109: 106: 102: 99: 97: 94: 93: 92: 89: 88: 86: 85: 81: 80: 76: 72: 71: 68: 65: 64: 60: 56: 55: 49: 45: 41: 37: 33: 28: 22: 2941: 2929: 2917: 2905: 2849:USA Climbing 2749:Wild Country 2744:Therm-a-Rest 2586: 2579: 2572: 2565: 2560:The Alpinist 2558: 2540: 2533: 2526: 2519: 2512: 2505: 2498: 2491: 2484: 2477: 2439:Campus board 2394:First ascent 2138:Ice and snow 1935:Belay device 1786:Alpine clubs 1746:Ropes course 1659:Alpine style 1549: 1441: 1411: 1385: 1360:. Retrieved 1355: 1321:. Retrieved 1317: 1307: 1295:. Retrieved 1290: 1264:. Retrieved 1258: 1248: 1236:. Retrieved 1231: 1222: 1210:. Retrieved 1206: 1196: 1184:. Retrieved 1180: 1170: 1158:. Retrieved 1154: 1144: 1115: 1111: 1086:. Retrieved 1077: 1064: 1052:. Retrieved 1048:the original 1041: 1020: 1013:. Retrieved 1006: 997: 989: 984:25 September 982:. Retrieved 975: 966: 927: 907:free soloing 889: 847: 839:aid climbing 831: 752: 723: 721: 685: 671: 658: 646: 642: 628: 619: 608: 584: 572:aid climbing 551: 550: 473:First ascent 375:Roof hacking 365:Rock hopping 281:Alpine style 198: 31: 2943:WikiProject 2779:Alpine Club 2774:Access Fund 2684:Lowe Alpine 2679:La Sportiva 2416:Fall factor 2309:Self-arrest 2285:Redpointing 2208:Snow anchor 1962:Boulder mat 1911:Daisy chain 1881:Terminology 1872:Terminology 1751:Rooftopping 1693:Hillwalking 1681:Dry-tooling 1647:Via ferrata 1560:Traditional 1538:Competition 1519:Multi-pitch 1502:Disciplines 1212:21 December 1186:21 December 1160:21 December 1088:21 December 1082:Sierra Club 1054:26 November 779:sport climb 692:guide books 661:Kurt Albert 615:Paul Preuss 423:Redpointing 399:Key actions 370:Rooftopping 321:Other types 310:Hillwalking 298:Dry-tooling 269:Via ferrata 209:Traditional 187:Competition 168:Multi-pitch 137:Terminology 50:equipment). 2567:El Capitan 2331:Traversing 2280:Onsighting 2260:Glissading 2243:DĂĽlfersitz 2238:Australian 2201:Transeiver 2146:Alpenstock 2079:Portaledge 2067:Copperhead 2006:Descenders 1940:Auto belay 1731:Commercial 1711:Buildering 1688:Scrambling 1598:Rock types 1589:Top roping 1526:Bouldering 1442:HardClimbs 1382:Long, John 1362:8 February 1323:9 February 1266:8 February 958:References 918:onsighting 873:Bouldering 824:Bouldering 792:Leading a 777:Leading a 734:routes or 728:quickdraws 704:redpointed 595:bouldering 450:Techniques 445:Traversing 350:Commercial 330:Buildering 305:Scrambling 238:Top roping 175:Bouldering 2719:Patagonia 2602:Companies 2588:Hard Grit 2581:Free Solo 2449:MoonBoard 2444:Hangboard 2430:Training 2379:Guidebook 2354:Ape index 2319:Rope team 2233:Abseiling 2178:Ice screw 2084:Quickdraw 1967:Carabiner 1889:Equipment 1867:Technique 1833:Equipment 1716:Canyoning 1654:Himalayan 1582:Rope solo 1572:Free solo 1238:1 January 1084:: 149–173 1015:2 October 740:A0-graded 669:aid climb 459:Key terms 408:Abseiling 335:Canyoning 276:Himalayan 247:Types of 231:Rope solo 221:Free solo 146:Types of 108:Equipment 38:, in the 2959:Category 2919:Category 2766:National 2664:JanSport 2639:Five Ten 2514:Desnivel 2507:Climbing 2486:Alpinist 2411:Exposure 2389:Chipping 2336:Tyrolean 2326:Spotting 2297:Crevasse 2275:Flashing 2265:Jumaring 2250:Belaying 2213:Snowshoe 2171:Ice tool 2161:Crampons 2011:Figure-8 1923:Ascender 1791:Climbers 1531:Highball 1514:Big wall 1479:Climbing 1410:(2018). 1318:Climbing 1260:Climbing 1072:(1999). 936:See also 922:flashing 665:redpoint 430:Jumaring 413:Belaying 180:Highball 163:Big wall 91:Climbers 67:Climbing 59:a series 57:Part of 40:Hebrides 2931:Commons 2885:(UIMLA) 2879:(UIAGM) 2270:Leading 2187:Rescue 2166:Ice axe 2116:Camalot 2050:Lanyard 2033:Skyhook 2018:Harness 1989:Dynamic 1972:Maillon 1945:Glasses 1826:Everest 1817:Deaths 1736:Parkour 1356:Climber 1297:5 March 1291:Climber 1232:Climber 900:belayer 700:flashed 696:onsight 605:History 418:Leading 355:Parkour 2907:Portal 2873:(UIAA) 2867:(IFSC) 2699:Millet 2689:Mammut 2654:Grivel 2624:Deuter 2542:Summit 2426:Guides 2421:Grades 2292:Rescue 2226:Action 2128:Tricam 2094:Grigri 2040:Hammer 1994:Static 1950:Gloves 1918:Anchor 1838:Brands 1642:Alpine 1444:(2023) 1420:  1396:  1132:  1078:Ascent 1011:. 2023 980:. 2023 732:bolted 468:Anchor 259:Alpine 2724:Petzl 2674:Kelty 2464:Media 2399:Pitch 2364:Clean 2347:Other 2196:RECCO 2123:Shoes 2111:SLCDs 2106:Sling 2074:Piton 2023:Hooks 2001:Chalk 1928:Croll 1906:Aider 1843:Knots 1779:Lists 1761:Slide 1726:Grass 1721:Crane 1704:Other 1676:Mixed 1605:Crack 1555:Sport 1543:Speed 1486:Types 867:bolts 835:bolts 757:Types 736:SCLDs 625:piton 623:(or " 568:route 510:Pitch 505:Guide 495:Route 490:Grade 385:Slide 345:Grass 340:Crane 264:Mixed 204:Sport 192:Speed 113:Knots 82:Lists 42:) in 36:E4 6a 2614:CAMP 2404:Topo 2374:Beta 2302:Self 2099:Revo 2089:SLDs 2028:Fifi 1984:Cord 1957:Bolt 1898:Rock 1766:Tree 1741:Pole 1620:Slab 1615:Roof 1610:Face 1567:Solo 1550:Free 1418:ISBN 1394:ISBN 1364:2023 1325:2023 1299:2023 1268:2023 1240:2022 1214:2022 1188:2022 1162:2022 1130:ISBN 1090:2022 1056:2022 1017:2023 986:2023 645:(or 597:and 562:for 500:Beta 483:FFFA 390:Tree 380:Rope 360:Pole 216:Solo 199:Free 2734:REI 2729:Rab 2062:Nut 2055:PAC 2045:Hex 1671:Ice 1509:Aid 1120:doi 1116:571 920:or 746:or 730:on 678:". 478:FFA 293:Ice 158:Aid 2961:: 1440:, 1392:. 1354:. 1333:^ 1316:. 1289:. 1276:^ 1257:. 1230:. 1205:. 1179:. 1153:. 1128:. 1110:. 1098:^ 1080:. 1076:. 1040:. 1028:^ 1019:. 1005:. 988:. 974:. 845:. 843:A0 714:. 61:on 1471:e 1464:t 1457:v 1426:. 1402:. 1366:. 1327:. 1301:. 1270:. 1242:. 1216:. 1190:. 1164:. 1138:. 1122:: 1092:. 1058:. 902:. 540:e 533:t 526:v 34:( 23:.

Index

Free solo climbing

E4 6a
Hebrides
traditional climbing
climbing protection
a series
Climbing

Climbers
Piolet d'Or winners
IFSC victories
Equipment
Knots
Historical events
Grade milestones
Eight-thousanders
Terminology
rock climbing
Aid
Big wall
Multi-pitch
Bouldering
Highball
Competition
Speed
Free
Sport
Traditional
Solo

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